Thats interesting i was of the impression that a short ram intake will give faster response due to the shorter path for air to travel ect, even the Sticky on Cai vs Sri says the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaint
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Thats interesting i was of the impression that a short ram intake will give faster response due to the shorter path for air to travel ect, even the Sticky on Cai vs Sri says the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaint
i suppose it comes down to what design the intake is
but my experience with several D-seires and B-series cars is that the
Injen/Fujita style CAI kits generally have slightly better response
and that the whale type dont because of the large chamber that it needs to fill before hitting the TB
this may be different again for normal SRI intakes
So has anyone here actually run a bisimoto camshaft yet?
there was one guy a while back that i was talking to via pm that said he had one
plenty of ppls over on dseries.org run them
apparently there are actually cheaper and more effective alternatives around tho hehe
quick one chaps, are all d16y gb interchangeable with other d16 engines eg. d16y1 gb on a d16y8 engine? need to know asap for certain lol....
no - not all of them are - but most
the D16y8/D16z6/D16y1/D15b ARE interchangeable
and all have the best ratios u can get out of the series
Don't some of the SOHC D series run midshafts?
isnt beeza running a bisi camQuote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
Cam gear not shaft I think. Pretty sure he's running an a6 shaftQuote:
Originally Posted by Riced_Civic
ahh thought he was running both shaft and gear
im running a D15b7 with D16a6 shaft and Bisimoto cam gear
to be honest the cam gear isnt that good
the dial marks rubbed off easily
the dial bolts were of poor quality
and the points of the dial bolts rubbed on the inner timing belt guard - causing a tonne of plastic shavings to get caught up in the timing belt
lucky there was no damage
next time i would definatly go for a skunk2 unit instead
much better design with allen key bolts
cheers man, rushed off to buy a y1 gb for my y8 engine, gear ratios are very very close so i doubt id feel any difference :)Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaint
shame that d-series gb aint that strong as ive found out :(
from what i was shown, 3 bearings gone, one being the main culprit, the input shaft bearing, syncros worn out, but other wise the gears them selfs, 10/10
price of a rebuild a staggering 1.5k !?!?!?!???!?!?!?!??! >_<
the best 3 gearbox's for the D are the D15b, D16y1/D16z6 and the D16y8
the problem with the D16y8 box is that it is stamped the same as the D16y5 box's in australia (S40 B000)
so you can never tell which you are getting - normal ratio box's being S40 A000
good thing about the D15b and D15y1 is that the better ratio ones all have S20 B000
and the ones with the not as good ratios are all S20 A000
the strongest of the whole range is the JDM D15b
some of these even came with LSD from factory
this is also the box that Bisi uses in his 700hp monster
and what i am running on mine at the moment
(still not bullet proof - but crap loads better than my D15b7 box)
be careful to mention this when dealing with wreckers - they will happily sell you a "D16y1" gearbox
but it might be off a D15b7 etc because to them all D box's are the same
i had many heated discussions on the phone to wreckers about this until i finally found a proper JDM D15b box at Honbits in perth
what a mission that was - end up costing around $600 for the box, $200ish for exedy o.e clutch and exedy 10lbs flywheel
+ couple of hundred to my mechanic to fit it all up with new fluids and sump bolt
Abit ot but Hondbits were great, got a few bits and pieces from there few years back. Few months ago went looking for them and they have closed down. Shame really because they were very helpful and they could source anything you needed.
I know plenty what goes on at d-series.org believe me. Im just curious to know if anyone on ozhonda / in australia has tried one yet
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaint
That US guy was saying that the Crower gear is top. Looked into that at all?
So why did my post relating to headers/intakes get deleted ?
okay so now im confused reading mixed things
what does top end and mid etc mean ?
i just want good power lets say 0-100 ??
u mean as in the power band????????Quote:
Originally Posted by viinnh
top end = the power is all in the top end rpm range, so no good on a dd, good example are the b16b, good power, but u can never really acess all 180hp unless u fang it till 8200rpm, which in old terms is a whipper snipper engine LOL....
and for mid, as plainly as it is, power is all in the mid rpm range, which is what most cars are like, which is ideal for dd....
good 0-100? no one with a d-series does that LOL, unless u plan on boosting it, than take it to the twisty rds instead, u appreciate it even more :)
Top end = high rpmQuote:
Originally Posted by viinnh
mid = mid range rpm
Depends on your budget too, quality cai is roughly twice the price of a fake whale penis intake, if you want good power i recommend the fujita Cai intake for your ek, it uses a smaller diameter pipe than than the injen which suits the d16y4 better.
Just bought 20W-50 for my car, is that too thick ya reckon? Car drinks a lil oil, been through 10W-40, then 15W-40 would jumping to 20W-50 have any negative affects?
Engine is D16Y1
Fujita also have better quality pod filters too =)Quote:
Originally Posted by TbM
the car should be running fine with 10w30Quote:
Originally Posted by NeedVtec
my D15b7 has done over 310k kms and still runs fine on Honda FEO 10w30
how many kms has it done? blowing any smoke etc?
might be worth posting in the noob section instead - probably get more general response to oil types there than in here
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400258118...ht_4135wt_1185
this seller has heaps of these. was thinking of picking up one of these
Misread you, thought you were asking about TheSaint ? using Bisi camshaft. He's not in any case.Quote:
Originally Posted by Riced_Civic
Not sure about beeza, haven't seen him around in a long time! Could be...
Doesnt say what diameter the piping is and the pod filter may not be of high quality, you want your pod to filter well so your engines not constantly sucking in dirt n crap. I still stand by my recommendation of fujita as they have good quality pods and use a pipe diameter suited to the d16y4. "FUJITA 96-00 EK CIVIC HX EX"Quote:
Originally Posted by viinnh
is the one i have on my Ek.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMAG1027.jpg
almost the same kit as me with the black wrinkle piping etc
Fujita have a very good quality pod over other brands thats one thing i would have to agree on
i have to admit tho - the gain did not feel as dramatic in terms of response/power/sound when i put it on my D15b7 as when i put it on my B18c2
but i felt more of a difference with the whale type intake on my D-series - but when i put the whale type on my B18c2 it was the opposite
strange - the unit i put on the Dc2 was a stainless tube - and the one on the D-series is black wrinkle - would this affect performance/sound?
this is mine ...
http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1288925239
That's right Danny,just a stage 1 Lyle..Quote:
Originally Posted by Riced_Civic
I only went stage 1 so I wouldnt have to upgrade the valvetrain but it's true what they say,forget stage 1 and go stage 2.1 is ok but 2 would be best.
The d needs hi-comp pistons and a tune too.
If these things are done plus the usual mods,it would be a sweet ride.
I ran an open filter at Lakeside and was hitting the stock speed limiter,160km/h down the straight.Timmy hit 175km/h in his JDM b16 and a guy in a track car was @ 200km/h,so I was pretty stoked,it ran real well,just the tyres was adverage,I will post a vid soon.
why does your car have a 160kph speed limit?Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
Stock ecu,so built in.
Get up,the auto! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNNyQMuVwdk
is that something that was only on autos or something? never heard of such a low speed cutoutQuote:
Originally Posted by beeza
Not sure..maybe cause it's the y4?..
neither my Dc2 or EG8 had a speed limiter?
wierd - my money would bet that its an auto thing
Yeah its definately there but not all the time as I have hit 200 a few times,weird alright.
It seems like those times the car was going hard and the ecu had learnt my driving and kept going.
Like,if I try it now,I dont know if it will be limited to 160,as it's not everyday I test it!
Probably an auto thing.
It's no problem at all and it has never been an issue at all,so that's good.
Having it painted should not affect the performance as far as im aware. I just like black so i painted mine as i couldnt order a black version. Sound is irrelevant when it comes to performace, having a louder intake doesnt make you go faster it just makes you feel like your going faster.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaint
That looks to be a different chassis than ek? the design of the bumper ect may give you different results. I.e. if the grill in the bumper allows enough air in for the pod to breathe. Ek pre-face has an adequate path via the front grill and the facelift can have a direct feed via the fog light cutouts in the bumper.
mine is a 93' EG8 sedan - i have a feed hose from the opening in the front bumper
and i have a louvered vent directly under the pod directing air from the bottom/front of the car
im quite aware that sound does not effect performance - its more of a curiousity
my Dc2 just had all the stock mouldings - so less airflow
but the induction pipe goes down the gap just in front of the engine mount on Dc2
where on the EG it goes through the hole for the resonator on the stock air box
mine isnt just painted black its a limited run 'wrinkle black' version of the intake from factory
the inside and outside diameters are wrinkled/dinted - like its been sandblasted or something
it also feels like theres an extra layer of insulation or something on the piping
the Dc2 kit had larger diameter piping but it was thinner and standard stainless material/finish
as for the color some may argue that having a reflective/shiny intake would reflect heat better
but i dont know if it would really make that much of a difference with cold air flowing through it
maybe for heat sheilding it would make more of a difference
If there is wrinkle paint on the inside too then it may effect the way the air travels through the pipe, may have also reduced the diameter of the pipe depending on how thick the paint is. Having a painted pipe should help avoid absorbing heat from the engine bay but once it was heated it would be harder to cool down. it wouldnt be a noticable difference, you would be better off heat wrapping it or using some sort of insulating foam/rubber if you wanted to keep the pipe cool .
are you sure the dc2 one was steel? IIRC most of the intakes ive seen are made from polished T6061 aluminium which absorbs and disapates heat quite quickly and looks somewhat like stainless steel.
What size piping is the kit for the eg? 2.5 , 2.75 or 3 inch?
Regards,
I dont even.....
not sure about the piping material on the Dc2 one - it was over 4 years ago
had it on the car for 1 day than the car got written off and i spent 12 months in a wheelchair + another 12 learning to walk again
as for the EG one - just got all 4 wisdom teeth taken out so i will have to go out and measure it wen im feeling a bit better lol
my guess would be that the Dc2 one was 2.5 and the EG one is 2.25
but ill measure it when i can and let you know - ill also see if the wrinkle is on the inside diameter as well
If it was a genuine fujita kit for the dc2 it almost be willing to bet my left nut it was T6061 aluminium alloy as thats the only thing ive seen fujita make intakes out of(painted ones may differ). heres mine before i painted it as an example.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMAG0741.jpg
Pretty much looks like stainless steel.
Ill see if i can google the diameter of the fujita eg intake when i have some free time, just finished work so gonna play some ACR and relax, if the d15 is similar to the stock d16y4 in the ek the best diameter is supposedly 2.5 inch.
I must of misread your post i thought you said the inside was wrinkle painted. just quickly read it and posted a reply at work. the inside of my pipe definately doesnt have any wrinkles/dints. I was under the impression you want the internals of your intake piping to be smooth, one would assume having the inside wrinkled could cause unwanted turbulance.
Regards,
ACR = Win
im not sure about the inside diameter
ill go check when im feeling a bit better
the pic above is the finish that my Dc2 one was
most likely ally like you said
fark well i got a intake for really cheap from my mateQuote:
Originally Posted by TbM
http://i40.tinypic.com/aacgmq.jpg
i just measured it its a 3 inch...
edit: i havent gun it or anything cos no insurance on my car atm, only went a lap around the block, its very responsive on normal driving.
just i think this might eat a lot of fuel ?
The difference between 2.5 to 3 inch will be quite small, having a larger pipe of the same design usually reduce response and moves the power further up the rpm range compared to the smaller diameter pipe.
When i installed the fujita CAI on my car it did seem to use a little bit more fuel but i do drive it harder now so it could just be my right foot more than the intake.
really mine was diffrent man just took it for a drive gear 1
0-60 is normally first gear
0-40 was way faster and 40-60 in first was just a little faster or the same
car was fully warmed up
Sorry i should of been more clear, you will notice the difference between stock and your 3 inch but you wouldnt notice much of a difference between 2.5 to 3 inch CAI of the same design, the 2.5 inch just gives you better response/mid range compared to a 3 inch. which is what you want for a daily driver.Quote:
Originally Posted by viinnh
Audible HP + butt dyno.Quote:
Originally Posted by viinnh
okay just recorded my test run but id rather not show here might get flamed
Don't be silly mate! Show test run! I'm keen.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6E_vnsZQ1Nw
47 secs thats when i try out 0-100
i like to have my safe stopping distance as i have a cxi (drums) and they are easy to lock up. happened once already
Looks like it has plenty of zip to get around in bro! People always hate on the D-series but there's no denying it can keep up with traffic or overtake easily.
Thanks for the vid :)
i would suggest getting a tacho and pushing the gears out towards redline a bit more
video made me dizzy btw lol
i think this intake might have made it slower then a stock arm with a pod. LMAO
Dissing the cai, pshhhh -
i still dont have a tacho but my redline for gear ones under 60! wtf.. and yes some bitch swore at me.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaint
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMhNzGQxWbM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbI0RNIcgVw
anyone tried the intake manifold spacer? worth the $$ and the time?
Need to learn to use the gears man. I have never locked up *touch wood*, nothing better than shifting down while using the break and almost going through the windscreen but not locking up. BAU5Quote:
Originally Posted by viinnh
i have the hondata intake manifold gasket on my D15b7Quote:
Originally Posted by grifty
installed it when i put on the USDM D16z6 intake manifold
used Permatex Aviation gasket fluid on both sides for installation
i would say it has made a difference in eliminating the heat transfer from the head to the intake manifold
but have no idea how much performance was gained
Hey!
Ok got myself a daily driven D16A8, Meticulously looked after, genuine 200+K's always serviced with genuine honda liquids etc, Compression test gave me 205psi within all cynlinders.
But I can't figure out why my head, more specifically my valves/tappets are considerably loud? I have always adjusted the valves to the factory specs, torque specs are spot on, using the correct oil, but it is still loud enough to be heard and does not get quieter throughout the rev range. Is this normal for these engine? Cause i have a few mates with either a D16y8/y4/y1 etc and apart from the exhaust/intake noise, the engine itself is very subtle and quite smooth reving.
Also there is quite a vibration given of when i floor it here and there, more than usual compared to other D16's? My guess is my head is worn? or could it be something totally different?
Was hoping somone could shed some light? ;)
P.S. Will try to record a vid so it should be more easier to understand.
Cheers!
Johnny.
maybe you're doing something wrong.
I've always noticed the valvetrain is quite noisy.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnJohn
I really hope not, but then again I doubt it to be honest, been doing it for ages and been following the haynes manual etc. And the car drives like a dream, only noisy thats all =\Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
Are you rocking a D16A8 aswell? How's the engine like? really eager to fix this thing if it is broke...Quote:
Originally Posted by ~Sp33~
I'm kinda thinking it sounds more like an oldschool type car//
so what correct oil are you using?
Well since I've owned it I've been using FEO 10w30 for a long period of time, so has the previous owner(as i was told), a few months back I figured I'd try Penrite 5w-40 (HPR-5 Semi-Syn) for reasons such as the weather getting hotter, quicker warmups from cold starts and overall quieting down the noisy valvetrain and my car actually runs smoother aswell, good improvments and also not burning any oil.
I figured after summer passes or whenever the weather gets colder ill try penrite 5w-30 since hpr-5 works so well, in my opinion anyway?
my neighbor just bought an EG5 with D16a8 in it - at first the valvetrain was really loud and the car ran like crap
it had 235km city k's on the clock and was in pretty rough shape when we got it
i changed the oil + filter to Honda OEM FEO 10w30 with Honda OEM Blue filter + generic magnetic sump bolt
flushed the radiator and put in Honda OEM Blue coolant
and cleaned out the IACV, FITV, TB and calibrated the TPS
also adjusted the tappets/valve lash to correct specs
and replaced the crappy ebay pod filter with a Fujita unit
cleaned and painted the valve cover (not that it really effects performance)
removed any unnecessary wiring and did a clean + cable tuck
cleaned out the distributor and cleaned all the earth cable contact points
now the car runs MUCH MUCH better - but the valvetrain is still a tad noisy
I've done nearly everything you've mentioned and yea gotta agree that that valve-train is quite loud, wanted to know if there's anything I could possibly do to the head?Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaint
have you adjusted the valve lash/tappets?
I just swapped it out for a DOHC ZC, which is pretty much the same. I had the d16a8 for 5 years though. It's a nice engine, torquey enough for a civic with decent pull at the top.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnJohn
I wouldn't worry about the valve noise if you've adjusted the tappets.
Yo sup D series guys and girls..cbf starting a thread
so heres my story, I just got my fulls and was planing still go ahead with the B18c2 swap...atm im loving boost and not keen on any imports. I was looking on Ebay at cheap turbo Civic EK kits.
The question is will it do the job and running stock ECU still ?
will stock Motor and gear box handle it ....but running under 7psi ???
Insurance gonna hassle me ??
Its a D16y7 about 190k on the clock lol
good luck trying to source a decent turbo kit for D series. E bay kits are generally shaiteQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM-derek
you can't use stock ecu, u need aftermarket chip and tune
insurance may be cool, depends which company.
ebay kits are okay as a base to start from - but alot of the parts will need to be replaced with better quality stuff
the turbo manifolds are generally the biggest problem - they are pretty crap
you will need either a standalone ECU or some chipping gear to run and tune the setup
if the engine hasnt been well maintained in its life expect to see some premature wear real quick
Hey guys, wondering would a B series throttle body fit D series?
Im in HK right now and parts of Honda here are so cheap...so planning to get some bits back to Aus...
Still thinking of what else I could put in my suitcase tho...
and could my D16Y1 runs better with the ECU of the JDM D15B VTEC?
any obd1 throttle body is compatible (eg f series,d series, b series) u wont notice much gain in a stock motor even if u port match the intake manifold to it. if the ecu from the d15b vtec was better wouldnt u think they would use it stock lol?
right tho....was just thinking the JDM one has different vtec engaging point and stuff...might be able to run better in it's 1.6 litre brother....
Is it normal for my d16y1 to shoot smoke as i accelerate to 3krpm on gear one? and also when i hit vtec
white smoke? no, piston rings or valve seals on there way out...Quote:
Originally Posted by cuppa
Nope, just greyish smoke
normal engine shouldn't smoke at all.
troubleshooting time
time for h22 swap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuppa
Wait my bad LOL, mixed it around, its prbz a head gasket problem, bluish whitish is more to do with internal piston rings or valve