will it die anytime soon?
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will it die anytime soon?
Just check your oil colour (under cap and in dip stick).
Check your coolant level/colour.
Get a compression test to see if the rings a stuffed.
What oil are you using? Brand, grade and full/semi-synth or mineral?
mate, D series the best.Quote:
Originally Posted by cuppa
Such good advice from ozhonda.Quote:
Originally Posted by mugen_ctr
Grey smoke is usually caused by the car overfueling (too much fuel burning) Could be caused by several things (poor ignition,vacuum leaks, stuck injector are a few examples).
Start by replacing your ignition leads if you haven't in the past few years, and a new set of plugs while you're at it.
I didn't read what car you have, but if the map sensor doesn't bolt to the throttle body on yours (obd0) then check the vacuum line between the intake manifold and the map sensor which is on the firewall on OBD0 cars and is prone to causing a rich burn.
had a free dyno run today thanks to a friend pulled 67.8kw with a auto d16a8 with i/h/e what do you guys think isnt it a bit low ?
I think d15b7 would have gotten more.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2MPRS
thats what im thinking but the guy at the dyno said id make alot more if the car was manual
low? what u talkin' bout?Quote:
Originally Posted by 2MPRS
stock b16a2 civic makes about 77-80kw in stock form.
67.8kw for an auto D-series with i/h/e is pretty good IMO
good info hear guiseQuote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
D16 should be 65-75 depending on mods/dyno.
B16a IMO 85-95. Below 80 I would be seriously asking questions.
would that be at the wheels yea? just making sureQuote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
Yeap.
On a proper (conservative dyno, not a US Disney one) dyno 77-80fwkw is normal and healthy stock b16a2. Anymore and the reading is false.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_7484/article.html :In terms of peak power, the standard car previously generated 77kW ATW
There are other results ive seen for stock VtiRs and they are about the same, but carnt find on the internets atm
I disagree that you can lose approximately 40kw/33% from the drivetrain.
Have never ever seen a b16a pull that LOW without being sick. From the three dyno days I have been to, including Autosalon where you have plenty of comparison, the lowest yet healthy figure has been around 85kw and up to 100kw on the same dyno same day.
A friend made 78kw and then we found she was running on three cylinders.
Need compression results, otherwise 75-80kw is a very low reading dyno IMO.
b16 fanboys v d15 fanboys.
no competition here bro'
No offense, but I seriously doubt those cars were 100% stock and I strongly reckon a lot of dyno readings are crap. People love hearing high numbers way too much, and many dynos give the people what they want... ie; not the truth.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
I trust Autospeed's dyno results, they are really no BS. Their runs are done on very low KM, 100% stock cars.
Apparently, my dead stock 01WRX would pull 103awkw (not counting torque) on a Dynodynamics awd dyno.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikecivic78
Not completely stock of course, but what B-series is?
Same day, same dyno, as a group:
ED9 with B18C7. SRI heat shielded, can't remember header, and 1.75" exhaust (for engineering) made 85.4kw (later made 108.5kw with exhaust and tuning).
EK with D16Y8, totally stock made 76kw
EF8 with SRI/H/E made 89kw
EF8 with CAI/H/E + head build (Skunk2 stage one, gears, ported/matched, valvetrain and untuned) made 100.7kw (later found to be losing compression in one cylinder).
EF8 with CAI/H/E made 99.4kw
EG2 with ITB's + full exhaust (and ?internals but would not disclose) made 108kw.
MR2 Spider with I/H/E made like 85kw also
So as you can see what had a fair few cars to compare, all healthy bar one, and a B18C7 running poorly. Which numbers are inflated and which are deflated?
Lowest B16A I ever saw was about 75-78kw at Autosalon, and we later found the plugs were rooted and one cylinder wasn't firing properly.
Autospeed's results were achieved on a 100% stock car all the way down to stock intake resonator, as they do on most of their performance (before and after) write ups. Bog stock is 77-80kw and that's healthy. 33% drive train losses is on the money.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
No one on that dyno day you mentioned had stock intake and headers, so of course they are pulling comfortably over the 77-80kw stock... add intake/header/exhaust and that will net an extra 15fwkw. With tune, I can see them pulling the high 90s.
BTW, the day you talk about, what dyno was it, and which shop?
The exact date I can't remember. About 25+ degC.
Dyno Dynamics dyno.
Fitzgerald Racing Services, Box Hill, VIC.
http://www.fitz-racing.com.au/
Of course you're welcome to criticise Dyno Dynamics, but would you comment on the results I have shown you? I'm not interested in stock resonators used by Autospeed. The car you referred to earlier (The EM1 turbo) clearly wasn't standard down to the resonator either.
I have given you pretty much a precise list of cars and exact mods/power figures delivered within a couple of hours of one another, so I'm very interested to see what you have to say. Of course you can't put a 10kw ATW difference down to a SRI/CAI or w/e.
The EF8 that made 99.4kw with I/H/E is my own, and I later found out that it was compression very well on all four cylinders at 215/210/215/220, which is why I believe I was making satisfactory power compared to some of my friends that day.
On the contrary, I find Dyno Dynamics to be good. Where did I criticise it?Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
The article does state that the em1 was dynoed 100% stock. I have seen another article which had the same information about average stock ek4/em1 results which is where I got the numbers.
Doesn't the EF8 come with a JDM b16a? Doesn't that motor make an extra 7kw at the fly compared to EM1's B16a2?
no dyno is ever 100% accurate. So many different factors, fuel, engine condition, oils etc.... Even factory claims of HP figures arent always correct its used as an AVG figure.
and i would say that on AVG 80kw - 90kw on a healthy B16.
You can argue until your blue in the face but doesn't change the fact that no dyno will give you an exact figure
I've said it once and I'll say it again, dynos are only good for tuning purposes, or for comparing same day same car, before and after results for mods.
Comparing different cars on different dynos at different times is pointless.
Never said you did, just saying you're welcome to attribute some of the figures to the dyno.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikecivic78
What I really wanted we're your thoughts on those figures given they are all from the same day/dyno. And funnily enough every single person had 15" rims, varying from re001 to t1r etc.
JDM b16a (first gen) is 118kw. 7kw more would be the b18c2.
A whole page of sh1t that has nothing to do with d series.....good work
hey man, youre saying this d series discussion is shit?Quote:
Originally Posted by _CRX_
this is a personal attack to another user.
http://i930.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1301262597
but seriously, i dont see anything wrong with the discussion for d series power figure
all the time i had d15b sohc vtak, never knew how much power it put down.
always thought it was around 60kw. felt really slow.
Lol the last 10 posts have nothing to do with d series powere figures
Lol i just asked about my fail d16a8 ended up being a discussion about b16s
Like we said man, not fail. Good power!Quote:
Originally Posted by 2MPRS
So we went a bit off-topic, big deal. At least we're having healthy discussion. Your own bullsh!t posts haven't been relative to any engine at all, let alone on-topic like you so childishly whinge about. Keep spamming and you'll get infracted, last warning.Quote:
Originally Posted by _CRX_
<deleted>
just remember different dyno's will give a diff power reading.
take it to the strip to really gauge where your power is at
Its not a fail engine at all! 68kw from an auto isn't terrible - just a question of how much you want at the wheels :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 2MPRS
I've got a CRX with the D16A8 in stock form from factory i want to dyno it to see my base and then go from there - i'd love to get a power to weight of 1kw - 10kg (so around 90ish kw atw)
I miss my old d15
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Killa From Manila
CANT STOP STRESSING IT, DYNO = TUNING TOOL!
Too many of these dyno figures are based on peak power which isnt what u want on a low displacement 4 banger, regardless of B series or D series for that matter.
Peak power means shit all if u cant use if effectively! And i can say this from personal experience!
U want good mid - top end power, which is what u should be aiming for, and if ur cars a DD, than u only wanna aim for mid range power, not peak... sucks being over taken by a 4 banger camry doesnt it LOL
Quick question for the d series boys, have heard of a b series box going on a d series is it true? If so would an auto eg6 box bolt straight on?, the cars a sedan eg single cam so not sure what engine code it is
What are you trying to achieve ? a b sseries auto box into a d series? IF their both manual/ auto then straight swapp but if your converting the eg6's auto box with a manual, bseries manual box than a d series. Dont think you'd downgrade unless your on a massive budget.Quote:
Originally Posted by rpm boy
Also if your going from auto > manual you'd have to repuck the box and also change the ecu's setting to make the engine think its manual I.E putting parking sensor cable in at all times for nuetral etc.
Correct me if im wrong, bit all over the place.
Take a picture of your engine. The engine number should be printed on the left hand side, front of engine, just on the block where the head/block meet.Quote:
Originally Posted by rpm boy
Yes, it's possible to do this setup. It's called the 'D2B' and I've seen it done in the USA, but never in Australia. It's not a straight bolt-on setup and requires some conversion plates etc. There are companies that produce complete conversion packages.
Your best bet would be to do some research on http://www.d-series.org/. They do a lot of things that we don't. However I wouldn't advise going down this path - better off just getting a B-series, or if you're really keen on a better box for your D-series just change out some of the gears for shorter ratios and buy an after-market final drive. If you want to do this (again I don't recommend it) PM me and I can point you to a person who sells these products for D-series GBox's.
Thanks boys , no a friend of mines box has just given up and he asked if he could put my old eg6 auto box on his eg d series(also auto), just had to make sure if it fit which I didnt think it would bolt on so all good, thanks for the info guys
the gear ratio of the eg vti is extra long....especially the third gear...
any d series gearbox could fit but with a shorter gear ratio?
you don't know what you are talking about, the AUDM EG breeze, Gli and VTi all had the same gear ratios for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. The VTi box has a shorter 4th and 5th gearQuote:
Originally Posted by NelsonLSY
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...es/EG-gear.jpg
[QUOTE=markismaximus;3471079]you don't know what you are talking about QUOTE]
Depends where nelsonLSY is from mate, i had a jdm vti in the uk with a d15b vtec, s20 gearbox, 3rd gear would hit the jdm limiter of 112mph @approx 4500rpm, it was crazy long, me and my mates thought it was friggin hilarious ha
given this is OZHONDA (an Australian forum) unless otherwise specified most people would assume he is living in Australia...Quote:
Originally Posted by d-series-Mike
Cool story bro.Quote:
Originally Posted by d-series-Mike
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/7758/img3117l.jpg
Hey guys
just abit OffTopic:
What would be the lowest safe oil pressure for a d16a8 engine i've googles and checked a few other forums but have yet to find my answer.
cheers
At what RPM?
Why do you need to know?
anyone know where the thermoswitch is on my ed6?
Thermostat?
Probably at the back of the engine, left side, down low.
Im fitting gauges with a warning fuction and just want to set it upQuote:
Originally Posted by ~Sp33~
thermo swich is on the side of the head there should be 2 switches a white and a green (from memory) white is the one that turns your fan on and off and the green is the one that shows the temp on your gaugeQuote:
Originally Posted by ouch
i hope that helps
is it on the thermostat housing? i cant find it!
i think its under dizzy.Quote:
Originally Posted by ouch
2 wire.
next to 1 wire coolant sensor
what a burn. niceQuote:
Originally Posted by ~Sp33~
Hey guys, Very interested in building a D!
I currently have a stock D16Y4 in my EK. Been reading through this thread and the best head to go would be a D16Y1? as it has the most after market support and what not!?
I was also wondering would the D16Y1 head bolt straight on to the D16Y4 Block?
Pretty noob, sorry about all the questions LOL!
you dont want a d16y1 motor in your car as it is from an eg and would be impossible to register. instead of doing just the head go find a d16y8 (sohc vtec d series for the ek civic) and just install the whole engine alot cheaper than changing just heads as you can find them for less then 500bucks with transmission,ecu, wiring etc
Cheers 2MPRS!
So best to go with the D16Y8 head from a EJ8 right? Is there a fair bit of aftermarket support for them?! Kinda wanting to build a beast D daily!
dont just get a head dude switch the whole motor over so much easier and cheaper. very good aftermarket support dont expect much power for cheap if you go n/a cheapest route with the d series is to turbo them.
Sorry, was just curious if the head bolted onto the D16Y4 bottom. Yeah i know it's not gonna make crazy power, just want to be different and build a D LOL. Was originally gonna go B18, but rather not spend that much!
yeah the d16y8 will bolt to the head but imo its really not worth all the extra cost to take the head off and put a new one on unless u are going for a full build. put the d16y8 motor in i/h/e and call it a day anything more its better to go b series
I wouldn't recommend building the D if you aren't mechanically experienced. Takes a lot of modification to build a 'monster'. You're looking at a complete rebuild with new pistons and a full head upgrade (cams, valvetrain, port work etc) plus ecu and tuning. Need huge compression.
Best bet IMO would be to get yourself a B16A or B18C.
The easy way to make power on the D is turbo - you can run 7-10psi safely on a stock bottom end with a good tune.
200 horse max on the SOHC if oem. Then you start snapping rods.
some have been lucky to push more than 220hp on stock block with arp head studs, but i think thats just asking for more trouble... so long as u dont push more than 200hp with X amount of psi, than most ppl are sweet...Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
though once u go forged items more power is definate the go, or the cheaper route Vitara rods+piston, 300hp plus is achievable with this setup which in my book is a winner for the price compared to building up a boosted b16 or b18c
Hmmm, yeah i heard it's not that easy building a D, but i have access to the tools and some type of help as i'm a first year apprentice! Not really looking to build a 'Monster' D-series motor, just a daily with a little bit of kick? Also, keeping this N/A!
Was originally going to put a B18, but now i don't know, just decided to change my mind Haha.
be different half the fun (imo) running a D. Plus the engines are everywhere because of all the Bswap/Kswap people hell if i could afford it i'd H-swap my CRX
Pretty much why i wanna do a D swap Hitoriko! :D
Rods are good for 200HP safely. Any more and you either need to shotpeen, cryogenically treat or replace with forged items.
Pistons are good for about 7,500-8,000 RPM. Once you hit 8,000+ the landings start to fail somewhat. Same as above. Shotpeen, cryo or replace.
Stress on the bolts is more from RPM than power. OE ones are generally fine though but if you're going 8,000-9,000 RPM with a 90mm stroke then the stress on the bolts is quite huge. If you're sticking 7,500 or below then I'm sure most bolts will be fine if they haven't been re-used and if they have been installed properly.
So just bought an ej8. It's been sitting for some time (10 months plus). Filled it up with fuel. 98 from shell. Anyway it idles crazy low. I'm talking 1000 or less. Has stalled once but also revs amazingly slowly. Will crawl along until about 4000 rpm and will run great. Have not reset the ecu but will try tomorrow. Could it just be the old fuel? Any quick tricks?
Maybe run a little injector cleaner. But idling at 1000 isn't bad, should probably only be 750-900? Look under the bonnet, there may be a sticker than indicates what the idle should be.
Give the car a full service. Flush and replace all the fluids.
And have you driven a SOHC D before? They all feel like sh!t under 4,000 that's when they start to rev out nicely.
Yeah it's scary gutless. If I stop at the lights it will idle bullshit slow. Take off and it literally crawls will take 20-30 seconds to get to 60. The minute I shift into second it drops right back down and takes forever to get back up to revs. Once it's at 4000 plus runs way better.
^^^ Change your spark plugs!
D-Series with snail for win!
Compression? Yeah do plugs too at least clean them
Got it booked in for monday. Calling the mechanic I told him the issue and that it was a d16y and he was like "it's been sitting hasn't it" which it has. He thinks it will be fuel filter and o2 sensor. Old fuel will have almost no bang left too so he's giving it a service and cleaning the intake sensors. He said he will clean out all the sensors and hoses as part f the service at no extra cost. Laughing.
Sensors are pretty easy. Just unscrew them and give them a wipe down.
Seems to know what he's talking about though which is nice
You could do both of those tasks at home and save $
My garage right now is so small it's not funny. Also I'm in a town house complex with the owner next door. Not good for oil etc. when I get a proper garage I will do most things myself
Hey guys. I've had a look around and couldn't find the answer to this one, so I figure here is a good place to post it. Is the Y1 trans compatible with the D15B4?
As far as I'm aware - all D-series boxes are interchangeable. So Yes, it does. Correct me if I'm wrong though.
Yes interchangeable
quick one guys.... Ive been thinking should i ever need a new block can i simply just slap on my Y8 head onto a Y4 block? considering that coming across a Y8 is rare
That way i can still retain the Vtec head
cheers
yep its called a d16 mini me swap, vtec head on non vtec block