You would be surprised what difference it makes when you amp and sub it.
Dropped my car another 10mm today. I hear rubbing when driving on hills. Need a wheel alignment asap. Maybe they can tilt the wheels in a bit.
Printable View
You would be surprised what difference it makes when you amp and sub it.
Dropped my car another 10mm today. I hear rubbing when driving on hills. Need a wheel alignment asap. Maybe they can tilt the wheels in a bit.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/black...res/1037340943
This makes me wish I purchased jprak's set of wheels a while back =[
How much would you guys pay for this? Tempting.
500 max
I sold my set for 250 cause I was desperate
when i had no kit or springs
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...85757333_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...69719878_o.jpg
Who's here has had the J's racing muffler (C304) fitted to their FD1? How do you guys rate it for noise and all?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dr9LuukZBHA
im running an FD2R ver on my car and kinda sounds the same. idle = very quiet and when it needs to be loud it'll be loud :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0SgyAbUZkM
I dont know if the FD and FD2 has the same exhaust system but when I changed the muffler on my FD2 it barely made any noise
difference. If you are going to change the muffler go for a catback system or remove the resonator.
Thats just from my personal experiences. So dont be disappointed if you spend $500 on a muffler and it made no difference. :P
Do intake for the extra #YOLOSWAG points. Makes a HUGE difference in noise
Home made intake lol. Then take the front bar off and remove the resonator?
It'll have a cold air feed. The R18's airbox is facing away from the engine unlike the K20z airbox.
Areis had a custom CAI for sale, Think he wanted $150. Dont know if his was FD1 or FD2
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/attac...6765504407.jpg
Anyone remember which cable to not connect to ensure the Mugen RR LED Brake light doesn't flash when braking? Just want a solid,
There's a thread here somewhere, but wasn't very clear about it.
Red, Brown, Black..
I was thinking about getting this one:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...and-more-later
Figured that if i wasn't satisfied with the noise level id just chop off the resonator on top that
Would do intake but engine warranty isn't something I want to void haha :(
You're only voiding the warranty if you think your car is a submarine and decide to drive into a lake.
You need to research more into your cars warranty as you'll find changing the exhaust is almost exactly the same as doing the intake. If its proven that was the cause of the problem, then you have nothing to fall back on, but if it wasn't you're fine.
I had a solid on mine and two different cops pulled me over saying that it is a rear fog light and that is not legal. Kept telling me to turn it off but there is no switch for it. I just told them I'll fix it at home and that the installers that did the bumper just hooked it up like that and that I didn't know.
I ended up just making it flash so it looks like a brake light and *touch wood* every cop that has driven by has not stopped me. Some cops actually prefer the flashing light as it does alert retards from rear ending you cause they are distracted (a cop said this in a car forum I can't remember which one)
Woops should have been a tad clearer, I'm just planning to have mine light up when I brake. Not have it constantly on like a foglight, and not have it flash. So hopefully that will be fine.
If I get any trouble, I'll prob do what was suggested before, slap some red reflector thing on it instead.
But thanks for the tip though!
Anyone know where to get that rubber lining thing, for the gaps in body kit?
my boot spoiler popped during the heat cause i didnt wanna drill in the boot<.<
space in the wheel well? well i can say you cant do anything about it really. it is 'aftermarket' and they werent meant to be 100% perfect fitment.
i got my kit off OTRmotorsports and i can say there front lip was good, side skirt was a bitch and rear RR lip had good fitment. just needed another person to help + a spare wheel to hold up the rear lip so you wont have to hold onto it (Y)
lub yew lolmclol
Yo yo fellas.
Got my Mugen RR kit from Euro Vision, via eBay.
Got it installed by the fellas at Innovative Autobody down at Mount Druitt. Relatively new, but honest and down to earth fellas.
In terms of the kit, front bumper, fit perfectly down to the millimeter, had to relocated the horn slightly, as my aftermarket foglights were just slightly too big. In terms of the foglights, the beam pattern is horrendous, not uniform more like a veining grainy sort of spread, but then again they are just foglights, we dont' get much fog down here... there was an in-bult cut-off though, except the cut-off was for LHD people. but no biggie.
I kept my side skirts from my previous mugen lip kit, as it's the exactly the same.
The rear lip, I had the single exhaust outlet, didn't need to relocate the stock exhaust that I thought may happened, fit was good. Only problem was the kit was abit too long at the end? So it took abit of twiddling, and some Superflex (?) to fill in some gaps. The rear LED brake light, I had it hooked up in the way that it only lights up when I press on the brakes, no flashing.
And I removed my OEM spoiler, and put on the ducktail spoiler, cleaner looking. Unfortunately, it left 2 holes from the original OEM spoiler, so I currently have some circular plastics, rubber glued, I suppose the Superflex? to cover the holes, I'm curious if anyone knows a more permanent solution besides welding it on?
Other than that, have to wait till tomorrow, take off the sticky tape holding on the rear bumper, then take some photos.. I'll start a new thread for it soon =D
PS: still have stock rims, they hurt my eyes, need new wheels =[
@sharkchu, just get it professionally blocked off. bog>sand>primer>painted..yea (Y)
oo superflex, isnt it just permanent glue? o.O rear lip too long? should of just heat gunned it and mold it to fit.
Yeah, the only thing is I can't leave my car at the garage, I work 6 days, and it's like 1.5hr train ride 1 way* if I had to take public transport, I rather not >_> .
Lip first perfect, it's when you drill the 2 screws at the wheel well fender bit, it sticks out abit too much... does that make sense? I really need pictures lol.
Just found a problem, just came back home from work, was testing out the foglights on the RR kit, and I knew the beam pattern was crap, but man, the cut off.. like I said before was for LHD. It was lighting up all the trees on the right hand side of the road, and you could imagine how blinding it could have been for coming drivers, turned it off immediately.
Anyone know how to fix this issue?
Thanks!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H11-6000K...item27cf86f8c9
Could I use that? since this has a specially designed cover to stop any glare?
Blah, it could be because I'm using HIDs in the RR foggies. And the RR foggies have some sort of bulb/lens thing that makes it look like a projector but isnt. Maybe I should revert back to halogens =[
If only I can transplant the stock OEM foggies into the RR. I miss my oem foggies already ... blah.
the 3000k HIDs? Recommend any?
But it's too JDM for me, I alawys wanted pure white light, no blue, and maybe a tinge of yellow.
=[ compromises must be made..
though, regardless of the colour light, wouldn't it still be blinding/bright, if the cut-off is all the way into the trees?
I haven't looked into HIDs myself, but I run phillips crystal vision in my headlights and footlights and they're pretty white for regular halogens.
Maybe only use your fog lights when you need the extra light, e.g. when you're driving down a poorly lit road and require extra light.
Chop your resonator and it'll make a huge difference. Im happy with my Varex :)
Keep your stock airbox and if anything happens then put it back on? lol
This is my car with the Resonator Chopped off. Still has one resonator and cat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBe7OZIRECg
Or you could just not use foglights
millions of people get by without them just fine
But then it's not jdmyo enough
Here's an example.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8283/7...2982cf6e_b.jpg
Also in terms of the moulding for the gap, can you see the grey rubber it between the rear bumper and the kit itself? anyone know where to get that? =D
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2NFgxNj...jYw~~60_57.JPG
And.... from what many people on the forums suggest, a rear sway bar, I'm going to go conservative and get a 19mm Ultra racing RSB. I shouldn't need to replace any stock parts for this RSB would I? I did some research and saw JohnnyFD having his RSB break, something I rather avoid!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ULTRA-RAC...item3f2a9f2701
Do I need these end links? with the RSB?
http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.ph...product_id=273
PS: Spent the whole night reading this thread =[ make me want to keep buying... fml.
dont think you need the rubber inbetween the bumper and lip. should sit flush with some double sided tape around it.
Guy, Its been about a week since I've put my K&N Typhoon in and all of a sudden today when I was driving
I got a CEL. CEL turns on above 3,000 revs but anything below is fine. I unplugged the battery before for a few hours
and plugged it back in and let the car idle for 10 mins. Havent test driven it yet but no CEL on idle.
Also, The other day i was driving the car all of a sudden lost all its power and stalled. Even though I was in gear at about 2,500 revs
Is that normal? Should I be worried?
Fxck this heat. Bring on hoodies, timbos and not getting into a oven of a car.
http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps108ae8e7.jpg
Those with slammed cars, do you get rubbing when driving on uneven rds? Mine rubs on the lining on the edge of the fender. Mine is half a finger and still rubs occasionally. I cant flatten my rubber lining much more :(
Flare it out more , or raise height only way to solve it
yea...just curious to those who have low rides if they experience this issue. Mine is currently at 3/4 finger height and rubs. My rims don't even stick out.
Stiffer springs m8
Pics of how low?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/02/tazybura.jpg
Here's my low car guizz
you can find it on eBay, under rubber beading or lining. Sometimes you can go to window places to get it, they sell it as "weather beading/trim" stuff.
Also paint/panel shops can get it for you, it is just to stop the body kit form rubbing against paint on the body
Officeworks sells "Scotch Heavy Duty Exterior Mounting Tape" this tape is extremely sticky! (prefer this than 3M)
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...f6cc08_300.jpg
bunnings sell it as well :-)
Really? Cut a hole in it? lol or get some sandpaper and sand it down. If its on the innerlining no one will see.
I have a giant hole on the plastic liner protecting the fuel pipe thing on the passenger side. Cut a hole and put heavy duty tape over it
Mine never did that even when i had my Work CR Kai's and those were tucked under the guards
But im on stock wheels and even lower now. No rubbing issues. My car hits the ground though. if that makes a difference.
Wheel specs and height?
@jPrak Do your bagged rear Vtec Kicked In Picture!!!
Too low?
Need to replace both drive shafts and raise the car :(
Also, Anyone know where I can get a Hood bra or those weather shield thing for the hood?
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...29138235_n.jpg
http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...27083303_n.jpg
wow. and I thought rubbing my outer lining was bad. From memory they are 225/40/18 18x7.5. I prefer not to scrape or hit the ground but still give the low ride look. Ive raised it by 3mm so ill take it for a spin shortly.
just plastidip ur hood.
I took it for a drive. It only rubs when the roads are quite uneven or when I drive fast crossing tram tracks. 9/10 is ok but the 1/10 happens mostly when im on the inside lane (closest to gutter) and the road is unbalanced. It was rubbing 4/10 before I raised it by 3mm. I guess im ok with this. Ill just stiffen it a little bit more. Off to wheel align this weekend.
Half paint it?
Lol Not half painting :(
Thats only you driving by yourself. Passengers will make it sag alot.
You might aswell do 5mm and get an alignment and keep it there.
Is the height the problem or is it the rims/tyres? Why not leave it lowered and invest in Camber Arms?
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...90906997_n.jpg
LOL @ pic
I think its the bounce. I have already raised it 5mm total. 2mm on Sat and 3mm on Sun. Wished I had a torque gun. Arms were pumpin afterwards.
Any higher and ill be fisting the wheelgap. Surely those people with same set up (not low) would occasionally rub the outer edge on uneven roads. Unless they have it on ultra stiff.
Camber arm, ill look into that.
I used to have HKS Hypermax coilovers 6:5 rates. 17x8+32 & 17x9+38
Wheels and I never rubbed. Part from my plastic liner on the inner wall on the
passenger side but that was easy to fix with a little blade.
6:5 springs are pretty soft even on max damper. Try put your damper on max.
its only rubbing once in a while. my dampening is only 10/40. Ill raise it between 15-20 tomorrow for a trial run. Don't really like the ride over 20.
From my research too, No need to replace endlinks unless you plan on tracking it for the 19mm UR RSB.
BTW, I got the 19mm UR RSB too. The fitment of the bar over the endlink bolt isn't big enough on our AUDM Civic FD's. I had to go to an engineering company and get them to measure and drill a bigger hole for the RSB. cost me like $20.
So heads up on that.
[QUOTE=Honda_FD;3876356]Too low?
Need to replace both drive shafts and raise the car :(
Also, Anyone know where I can get a Hood bra or those weather shield thing for the hood?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-Civ...item27de5c34a6
How it looked on my ride-
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater
Just quick question guys, Does anyone know if the preface lift tail lights ( the more circular ones ) can be replaced by the facelift 09+ tail lights?
lolmclol you can always drill a hole for me ;)