Do you have to pay import duty and GST?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambo73
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Do you have to pay import duty and GST?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambo73
Price is OK for 18s.You should look around some local tyre places before you order them though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambo73
went to my local Tyres & More and was told there is a problem with 18" after market wheels. Something to do with the brake caliper been to big.
He said that i would need a 19X8 +45 at (wait for it) $900 per wheel (with tyres) :eek:
That to rich for my blood (plus the wife would divorce me)
try www.tirerack.com.
Thats too expensive. What rims are they offering you?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambo73
http://www.ozracing.com/car_wheels_v...0GT/25499.aspxQuote:
Originally Posted by nxn75u
He said that this was the only wheels he could get in from his supplier!
I had a look at this web site www.tirerack.com. as Fredoops recommended.
Has anyone bought anything from these guys?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambo73
Lol that guy is full of BS.
Anyway, 18 is perfectly fine. What criteria are you looking for in a wheel?
one of the guys here brought tires fronthere... Don't remember the username but his/her sig us a puppy dog with a hat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambo73
i would recommend famous tyre store such as talebs or tempe tyres if you do not want to spend a lot on wheel and package tyres.
If you want quality Japanese rims you can try JDM concept or autotechnic. They are also in the trader lists.
best rims to date........reminds me of C63 AMG'ish.
Quote:
Originally Posted by s-ichigo
Hey all!
Just got a question for those with aftermarket rims/experts :P
What's the max width and offset I could go with rims on my CU2 if I was looking at getting 18"?
Much help would be greatly appreciated :) :)
Thanks!
Delayed yet again.Quote:
Originally Posted by WarrenM
Photos of the car before installation:
Front side showing Modulo body kit (grille, bumper bar, side skirts, etc)
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...FrontSmall.jpg
Rear side showing Modulo body kit (duckbill spoiler, bumper bar, etc)
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...ulo_-_Copy.jpg
Inside showing Elegance Kit (Sports steering wheel, sports pedals, leather gear knob, brushed aluminium trim, etc)
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...gance_Pack.jpg
Photos of some of the electronics to be installed:
FullRiver DC55-12 sealed leakproof deep-cycle battery
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...le_Battery.jpg
SSL 350B 3.5 Farad Power Capacitor
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/..._Capacitor.jpg
JBL MS-8 8-channel Digital Sound Processor (pre-equalisation + post-equalisation + time alignment + optional 8-channel amplifier)
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...L_MS-8_DSP.jpg
Schneider SPA-6000X x-class competition-grade mono-block amp delivering 500W RMS into 4 Ohms and up to 3000W Peak into 1 Ohm
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/..._SPA-6000X.jpg
Phase Linear HC-12 audiophile 12" subwoofer
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...near_HC-12.png
Alpine MRV-F405 4-channel amp for Hertz front splits
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...e_MRV-F405.jpg
Hertz HSK 165 splits for front doors
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...tz_HSK_165.jpg
Infinity 651i coax pair for rear parcel shelf and 452i coax speaker for centre front shelf
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/...i_and_452i.jpg
That'll do for now.
Regards
Warren
Hi guys, I would just like to know if anyone of you have installed a headunit into their Euros yet. I want this do this in the future but I don't know much (if anything) about taking the control panel and stuff so I'd obviously get some professional help. I'd want a touch screen headunit with a GPS in it as well, not just a headunit for music. I just wanted to know rough prices or something to do this and how hard is it etc etc. If someone could explain everything to me, that would be greatly appreciated.
Also Warren, would you say JL audio systems are good? Why did you go with what you chose? I'm noob with sound systems as well :S
Edit: Oh and, where did you get your window visors Warren!? I like those slim ones better than the OEM ones ): Are they the JDM ones?
Thank you,
Steven
For the CU2 is very tricky.Quote:
Originally Posted by euRo_noob
I believe there are no fascia kits available yet, so it'd need to be a custom job.
I'd be happy of being corrected, as i'm looking to do the same here.
There are some GPS units being sold from china that fit on the information display, and where the pocket is. but I'm not sure about their quality, or whether they will display the information that screen has currently.
Hi Steven.Quote:
Originally Posted by euRo_noob
AFAIK, these window visors are OEM. They look the same as those in the accessories brochure. I bought my CU2 2nd hand with all its current accessories already installed (Modulo, Elegance, Visors, Window Tinting).
I'll go through my thinking for each of the items which is being added in:
- Bury Bluetooth CC 9060 IQ
- Choice was Bury or Parrott
- Bury looks like the technology leader
- Able to get it new for very good price on the web
- Adding in the active cradle was a nicety, but makes a difference when I am driving long distances and need to answer lots of business calls on the way, drawing down my phone battery
- FullRiver Battery DC55-12
- My amplifiers will draw a LOT of current
- A standard starter battery only drains a tiny proportion of its capacity before it starts bottoming out as it is optimised for big short bursts (starting) rather than big constant drain (high-power amps). Typically bottoms out at about 90%-95% of capacity (i.e. after using just 5%-10% of capacity) - watch your headlights dim each time your subwoofer thumps!
- Choice1 is a dual-purpose wet-cell battery of which the best-known is the Optima yellow-top range - typically bottoms out at about 70% of capacity - about $320
- Choice2 is an AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) deep cycle battery of which the best known manufacturer is FullRiver - typically bottoms out at 15% of capacity - recharges MUCH faster than wet cell battery - price is about $220 - battery life is typically 5-to-10 years!
- Choice3 is a separate deep-cycle battery - requires an upgrade to the alternator system - I don't need it.
- Power Capacitor
- A power capacitor between the battery and the hi-fi amps will charge up and then release current as demanded by the instantaneous needs of the amp, putting less pressure on the battery.
- If the power capacitor is too small for the purpose, it will regularly fully drain, and will in fact be a net drain on the battery instead of a help!
- For small-to-moderate sound systems, a 1 Farad capacitor is likely to be sufficient
- I found this 3.5 Farad capacitor at an excellent price on the web
- JBL MS-8 Digital Sound Processor
- The Accord Euro Luxury head unit is not bad at all. But the speakers are atrocious - all of them! The head unit has been hard-equalised to try to compensate for speakers which have no treble, boomy bass, peaks and troughs everywhere. As a result, if you simply replace the speakers or add amplification and speakers, the result will be terrible. The only way to keep the head unit and properly compensate for it (apart from modifying its electronics to bypass the equalisation completely), is to re-equalise the output of the head unit BEFORE feeding it to your amplifiers and speakers.
- There are a few choices for pre-equalising DSPs, but most are limited to 4 channels, or 5 channels. There are a number of 8-channel DSPs being readied for release, but right now the choice is JBL MS-8 or ...wait.
- The MS-8 takes the speaker output from the head unit and, using its own test CD, resets it to something very close to flat over the audible frequency range. WOW!
- It also sets delays for each of the speakers so that the sound from each speaker reaches the listener at exactly the same time, so that you get a truly remarkable recreation of the sound stage
- It also has a built-in amplifier which you can choose to use or bypass on each of the 8 channels
- Hertz HSK 165 splits
- There are lots of excellent speakers out there. When it comes to splits, you start hearing REALLY good quality sound at about $500 retail - Hertz HSK 165s, equivalent Focals, etc.
- With care and some luck, you can find non-fake high quality speakers on the web, for very very good prices
- That's what I got, but not before going through the hassle of discovering and dealing with my first two pairs of HSK 165s which were fake!
- Infinity superseded coax speakers for front shelf centre and rear parcel shelf
- Centre speaker is remarkably important for enhancing depth in the sound stage. As a result it needs to be pretty good. But it is still "fill" - unless you are trying to win a competition, you don't want to spend silly money on this speaker.
- Rear shelf speakers are not that important for listeners at the front, but help manage music in the back. In contrast, rear door speakers are almost useless unless you have a chauffeur. You don't want the sound to be out of character with the rest of the system.
- I like Infinity speakers - they are detailed but a little laid back compared to the Hertz HSKs, and these superseded speakers cost me a lot less than current model speakers of the same quality.
- Hertz HSK 165 splits
- There are lots of excellent speakers out there. When it comes to splits, you start hearing REALLY good quality sound at about $500 retail - Hertz HSK 165s, equivalent Focals, etc.
- With care and some luck, you can find non-fake high quality speakers on the web, for very very good prices
- That's what I got, but not before going through the hassle of discovering and dealing with my first two pairs of HSK 165s which were fake!
- Infinity superseded coax speakers for front shelf centre and rear parcel shelf
- Centre speaker is remarkably important for enhancing depth in the sound stage. As a result it needs to be pretty good. But it is still "fill" - unless you are trying to win a competition, you don't want to spend silly money on this speaker.
- Rear shelf speakers are not that important for listeners at the front, but help manage music in the back. In contrast, rear door speakers are almost useless unless you have a chauffeur. You don't want the sound to be out of character with the rest of the system.
- I like Infinity speakers - they are detailed but a little laid back compared to the Hertz HSKs, and these superseded speakers cost me a lot less than current model speakers of the same quality.
- Hertz HSK 165 splits
- There are lots of excellent speakers out there. When it comes to splits, you start hearing REALLY good quality sound at about $500 retail - Hertz HSK 165s, equivalent Focals, etc.
- With care and some luck, you can find non-fake high quality speakers on the web, for very very good prices
- That's what I got, but not before going through the hassle of discovering and dealing with my first two pairs of HSK 165s which were fake!
- Infinity superseded coax speakers for front shelf centre and rear parcel shelf
- Centre speaker is remarkably important for enhancing depth in the sound stage. As a result it needs to be pretty good. But it is still "fill" - unless you are trying to win a competition, you don't want to spend silly money on this speaker.
- Rear shelf speakers are not that important for listeners at the front, but help manage music in the back. In contrast, rear door speakers are almost useless unless you have a chauffeur. You don't want the sound to be out of character with the rest of the system.
- I like Infinity speakers - they are detailed but a little laid back compared to the Hertz HSKs, and these superseded speakers cost me a lot less than current model speakers of the same quality.
- Phase Linear 12" speaker
- This is an experiment! Phase Linear were are top-of-market manufacturer of audiophile-oriented car hi-fi a decade ago, but their parent company went bust in 2003 and they are no more.
- I got two of these subs, brand new (yet close to 10 years old) on eBay
- They are very flexible in how you box them, which was attractive to me. I've decided to put one in a sealed enclosure, which I have modified by smothering almost all internal sound reflections, which makes it behave a little like an open air environment (which the Phase Linear can handle but many other subs can not).
- If it does not work as I want it to, I have a JL Audio 12" sub as a fall-back
- Amplifiers
- I've bought all my amplifiers 2nd-hand to save money
- I got the Schneider mono block amp, for the sub, for a fraction of its realistic value - it's a good amp and a good match for the Phase Linear sub
- The Alpine amp is an old but excellent work-horse and provides very clean power for the front splits, which are the most important speakers.
- I have picked up a couple of other amplifiers on eBay, but I don't know yet what their sound quality is like, so I do not yet know which I shall be using. The others will either be used in my wife's car or sold again on eBay (for more than I bought them).
Hi Steven.Quote:
Originally Posted by euRo_noob
AFAIK, these window visors are OEM. They look the same as those in the accessories brochure. I bought my CU2 2nd hand with all its current accessories already installed (Modulo, Elegance, Visors, Window Tinting).
I'll go through my thinking for each of the items which is being added in:
- Bury Bluetooth CC 9060 IQ
- Choice was Bury or Parrott
- Bury looks like the technology leader
- Able to get it new for very good price on the web
- Adding in the active cradle was a nicety, but makes a difference when I am driving long distances and need to answer lots of business calls on the way, drawing down my phone battery
- FullRiver Battery DC55-12
- My amplifiers will draw a LOT of current
- A standard starter battery only drains a tiny proportion of its capacity before it starts bottoming out as it is optimised for big short bursts (starting) rather than big constant drain (high-power amps). Typically bottoms out at about 90%-95% of capacity (i.e. after using just 5%-10% of capacity) - watch your headlights dim each time your subwoofer thumps!
- Choice1 is a dual-purpose wet-cell battery of which the best-known is the Optima yellow-top range - typically bottoms out at about 70% of capacity - about $320
- Choice2 is an AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) deep cycle battery of which the best known manufacturer is FullRiver - typically bottoms out at 15% of capacity - recharges MUCH faster than wet cell battery - price is about $220 - battery life is typically 5-to-10 years! Warning: these batteries do not come standard with automotive terminals - you need to specifically request them and they may cost you an extra $10
- Choice3 is a separate deep-cycle battery - requires an upgrade to the alternator system - I don't need it.
- Power Capacitor
- A power capacitor between the battery and the hi-fi amps will charge up and then release current as demanded by the instantaneous needs of the amp, putting less pressure on the battery.
- If the power capacitor is too small for the purpose, it will regularly fully drain, and will in fact be a net drain on the battery instead of a help!
- For small-to-moderate sound systems, a 1 Farad capacitor is likely to be sufficient
- I found this 3.5 Farad capacitor at an excellent price on the web
- JBL MS-8 Digital Sound Processor
- The Accord Euro Luxury head unit is not bad at all. But the speakers are atrocious - all of them! The head unit has been hard-equalised to try to compensate for speakers which have no treble, boomy bass, peaks and troughs everywhere. As a result, if you simply replace the speakers or add amplification and speakers, the result will be terrible. The only way to keep the head unit and properly compensate for it (apart from modifying its electronics to bypass the equalisation completely), is to re-equalise the output of the head unit BEFORE feeding it to your amplifiers and speakers.
- There are a few choices for pre-equalising DSPs, but most are limited to 4 channels, or 5 channels. There are a number of 8-channel DSPs being readied for release, but right now the choice is JBL MS-8 or ...wait.
- The MS-8 takes the speaker output from the head unit and, using its own test CD, resets it to something very close to flat over the audible frequency range. WOW!
- It also sets delays for each of the speakers so that the sound from each speaker reaches the listener at exactly the same time, so that you get a truly remarkable recreation of the sound stage
- It also has a built-in amplifier which you can choose to use or bypass on each of the 8 channels
- Hertz HSK 165 splits
- There are lots of excellent speakers out there. When it comes to splits, you start hearing REALLY good quality sound at about $500 retail - Hertz HSK 165s, equivalent Focals, etc.
- With care and some luck, you can find non-fake high quality speakers on the web, for very very good prices
- That's what I got, but not before going through the hassle of discovering and dealing with my first two pairs of HSK 165s which were fake!
- Infinity superseded coax speakers for front shelf centre and rear parcel shelf
- Centre speaker is remarkably important for enhancing depth in the sound stage. As a result it needs to be pretty good. But it is still "fill" - unless you are trying to win a competition, you don't want to spend silly money on this speaker.
- Rear shelf speakers are not that important for listeners at the front, but help manage music in the back. In contrast, rear door speakers are almost useless unless you have a chauffeur. You don't want the sound to be out of character with the rest of the system.
- I like Infinity speakers - they are detailed but a little laid back compared to the Hertz HSKs, and these superseded speakers cost me a lot less than current model speakers of the same quality.
- Phase Linear 12" speaker
- This is an experiment! Phase Linear were are top-of-market manufacturer of audiophile-oriented car hi-fi a decade ago, but their parent company went bust in 2003 and they are no more.
- I got two of these subs, brand new (yet close to 10 years old) on eBay
- They are very flexible in how you box them, which was attractive to me. I've decided to put one in a sealed enclosure, which I have modified by smothering almost all internal sound reflections, which makes the box behave a little like a "free-air" environment (which the Phase Linear can handle but many other subs can not).
- If it does not work as I want it to, I have a JL Audio 12" sub as a fall-back
- Amplifiers
- I've bought all my amplifiers 2nd-hand to save money
- I got the Schneider mono block amp, for the sub, for a fraction of its realistic value - it's a good amp and a good match for the Phase Linear sub
- The Alpine amp is an old but excellent work-horse and provides very clean power for the front splits, which are the most important speakers.
- I have picked up a few other amplifiers on eBay, but I don't know yet what their sound quality is like, so I do not yet know which I shall be using. The others will either be used in my wife's car or sold again on eBay (for more than I bought them).
Hope that helps
Warren
@ Warren
Just out of interest, how much more weight are you adding to the car this all those?
I'd guess about 25Kg (after removing the existing speakers and battery) but there would be another 15Kg in sound deadening. I've been driving around with everything in my boot to get a feel for the additional sluggishness - not too bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
It's a bit like having my wife in the boot.
Whoa Warren, that is a very detailed replied, thank you for that! Though I don't even know most of those stuff are but I get the gist of it. If I were to replace all my speakers, I would also need to add in something like a sound processor? Pretty much like a computer yeah? Can't just have a new set of 7.1 speakers if the sound card can't be compatiable/can't produce all the proper sounds of those speakers?
Also, if you don't mind me asking, roughly how much did you spend on the sound system? If I were to do anything to the stock sound system, it'd probably be one of my later mods. I want to do some cosmetics first :D
Oh and really? Those are OEM ones? Mine one are fat as.. I like the JDM ones, they're slimmer. Here are my visors, sorry about the photo, it's the only one I have showing them 'properly'.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/809/058py.jpg/
Cheers man!
P.S. CAN SOMEONE TEACH ME HOW TO POST PICS AGAIN? I've forgotten how to, it's been years lol
I'll try to give you the picture. Imagine there is only one pair of speakers. If you test the existing speakers in your car you might get a graph which is 10dB down at 50Hz (bass), 3dB down at 150Hz (mid-bass), flattish from 500Hz to 3KHz (midrange), flattish from 4Hz to 7Hz (treble) and then 3dB down at 10Khz and gradually drop from there. Not great but OK - probably about the same as the replacement speakers. BUT, that is after the head unit has ramped up the bass to get ANY bass or treble at all. So, when you replace the speaker with the good one, the head unit is STILL ramping up the bass and treble, so the bass ends up boomy and unpleasant, mid-bass dominates over midrange, making voices sound unnaturally deep, and treble sounds unpleasantly harsh. You can try to adjust for it, but, at best you will get something a little better than what you started with.Quote:
Originally Posted by euRo_noob
Ask me after it has all gone in! Hardware I think has come to about $3000 (including the Bluetooth etc). I would not suggest that everyone wants to commit that sort of money for their music, but on the other hand, paying full retail for an equivalent system would easily exceed twice that. The retail price of the JBL MS-8 alone is $1400 though I am certain you can do much better than that in Australia (I've seen it for $1000), let alone from the US which is how I bought it.Quote:
Also, if you don't mind me asking, roughly how much did you spend on the sound system? If I were to do anything to the stock sound system, it'd probably be one of my later mods. I want to do some cosmetics first :D
They do look different - maybe mine are NOT OEM. I'll follow it up with the original dealer.Quote:
Oh and really? Those are OEM ones? Mine one are fat as.. I like the JDM ones, they're slimmer. Here are my visors, sorry about the photo, it's the only one I have showing them 'properly'.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/809/058py.jpg/
Regards
Warren
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT
it has been tempting me for a week...
http://www.dragtimes.com/images-clas...0628258402.jpg
Oh nice! Pretty cheap :D...Let us know how you go ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by natnat
FYI Everyone...
Replica Mugen Wings are now in stock! They're very good quality and come with Mugen Badges that have been cut with 3D Lasers.
http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/7871/image808.jpg
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/1558/image804.jpg
http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/900/image803g.jpg
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/6883/image802.jpg
http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/3397/image798.jpg
Price: P.O.A (Don't want to disclose price just in case it's against forum rules)
Oh and if anyone is interested in the Carbon Fiber Mugen Grill let me know!
Message me if interested!
I just reviewed what everything cost and it is quite enlightening:Quote:
Originally Posted by WarrenM
Battery $210 - new from distributor
Capacitor $60 - new on eBay - retail would be about $120
JBL MS-8 DSP $660 - new on US eBay - retail is $1400 but realistically $1000
Hertz HSK 165 splits $145 - new from Malaysia - retail is $485 but street price varies widely from about $200 up (anything cheaper is likely to be fake - I was incredibly lucky)
Infinity 652i coax speakers $79 - new (superseded) on eBay - replacement retail about $130
Infinity 452i coax speaker $59 (pair) - new (superseded) on eBay - replacement retail about $100
Phase Linear HC-12 sub $52 - new (ancient stock) on eBay - replacement would be something like a Boston Acoustics G512-4 which is around $700 I think
VFM Audio sealed sub enclosure $68 - new on eBay - replacement would be the same price (includes postage Brisbane to Sydney)
Schneider SPA-6000x mono block amp (500W RMS @ 4Ohms, 1Ohm stable) $142 - 2nd-hand on eBay - replacement would be say an Alpine MRP-M1000 $700
Alpine MRV-F405 $152 - 2nd hand on eBay - replacement MRP-F300 $400
Alpine MRP-F200, Kenwood KAC-742, Axis AX505A 5-channel, Formula Mach 9000 - each bought for between $20 and $60 on eBay - one of these will be my other amp with the rest being cleaned up, tested, documentation provided if possible, and resold on eBay. The Alpine should get about $100, the Kenwood should get $70, the Axis should get $100, the Formula Mach 9000 could get up to $200 - it is a reasonably big competition amp. I have not yet listened to any of them. The Alpine will sound very good but is a little short on power. The Kenwood has about the same power. I have no idea about the Axis. The Formula has heaps of grunt but could either sound great or terrible.
More later.
i need to know if thosscrew holes will align with my existing wing's holes... i dun wanna drill more
Front wheel offset you can go till +30 and rear offset +20 ( Hellaflush )Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwangstuhhh
D2 Have release new air suspension for CU2 probably you guys need to check it out :) I have mine installed last week its awesome :p you can order it through Autotechnik. Enjoy :)
Attachment 18679Attachment 18680
Attachment 18677Attachment 18678
WOW, that is crazy, is it adjustable while driving like hydraulic suspension?Quote:
Originally Posted by mugen_86
How much did it cost you?Quote:
Originally Posted by mugen_86
Please describe the difference in ride.
manual adjustment on damper it's similar to coilover instead of oil they use air on it. you can get analog kit or digital :) The ride is like stock suspension even better :) cost me $4000 ( kits + installation ). First CU2 with Air suspension :pQuote:
Originally Posted by euroRwannabe
Could you be a bit more descriptive - for $4000, I'd hope that the result is not simply a marginal improvement over standard. How does it affect bumps, turns, holes, ride comfort, ride sportiness?Quote:
Originally Posted by mugen_86
Hmm do you know what the measurement for the space between the two current holes? I will find out for you how it fits on/what the measurement for the Mugen Wing holes are :)Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
Oh Thanks for that Mugen!! :D :DQuote:
Originally Posted by mugen_86
Its more than standard warren you can drop ur car to the ground which no other standard be able to do so. :p hmmm the ride its comfortable depend on ur setup again. The price for the kit 2600 + install 1400. The handling was ok not as good as coilover. But better than standardQuote:
Originally Posted by WarrenM
Its more than standard warren you can drop ur car to the ground which no other standard be able to do so. :p hmmm the ride its comfortable depend on ur setup again. The price for the kit 2600 + install 1400. The handling was ok not as good as coilover. But better than standardQuote:
Originally Posted by WarrenM
Airbag suspension... Ain't it illegal?
at the moment the only RTA NSW guideline re suspension is here:Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registrati...s_nov_2007.pdf
it's silent on air suspension, hence don't think it's illegal unless you drive with the car fully slammed.
They shoul be fined for looking like a twat.Quote:
Originally Posted by natnat
Any flash chips available yet?
Hondata?
Do you guys think a BMW E60 5 Series roof spoiler will fit our CU2's? There's this guy on another forum in America or something that put a replica on his... But I'm scared to pay $200 for one :\
new pics from a socal acurazine meet. 09-10 tail lights swapped in on the 11'
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5069/...c5c44cb1_b.jpg
IMG_3868 by defconskylude, on Flickr
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3639/...ee851060_b.jpg
IMG_3867 by defconskylude, on Flickr
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5063/...4b325219_b.jpg
IMG_3865 by defconskylude, on Flickr
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2593/...0d6846f3_b.jpg
IMG_3864 by defconskylude, on Flickr
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2346/...200c799a_b.jpg
IMG_3863 by defconskylude, on Flickr
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...0/_MG_1379.png
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/3984/img2595m.jpg
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/2125/img2596l.jpg
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/3839/img2597e.jpg
6th pic looks awesome
If you don't wanna take a risk better keep your car standard Fredoops.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
there's always risk with serious mods, so it's not for the fainthearted :p
I love the clean debadged look on the rear.
wow i dont post for ages and this thread gets pushed to second page lolz
man u guys remember how i was complaining about hitting something under my car against the gate stopper poking up from the ground in my driveway? like a clunk.
well i stayed at my uncles place over the weekend...and he has an even higher plate/stopper poking up from the ground. i caught the train to work and told him to reverse the car into his driveway. when i came to pick it up at night....i drove 200m down the road, hit the brakes at a red light, nose of the car dipped a few cm cause of the braking...then SCRAPPPEEEEEEEEE. i was like WTFFFF BBQQQ WAS THAT?!
so i kept driving but didnt hear anything....until i got to a slightly bumpy road, then....SCRAPPe SCRAPEEE SCRAPITY SCRAPPEEEE!
so i pulled the car over. walked around the car, expecting the worst...lilke the bodykit fell off or something. but could see anything wrong!!!
when i finally got home, i pulled out a flashlight and looked under my car...and oh my fukn god....basically when my uncle reversed, his stopper thing latched onto the heatshield underneath the car and ripped half of it off. so basically i had a gigantic plate bend into an upside down L shape poking down underneath my car. it hung lower than my crazy low bodykit. so every tiny downward jolt would scrape the edge of the alumnium plate.
next day i tried jacking the car up to look underneath and tried to wack the plate up a bit to hopefully increase the distance between the edge and the ground, since i had no time to go to mechanic that day
i didnt have one of those stands u use to hold up the car, so as i was laying bricks (lol) whoda guessed it, the car started sliding backwards and basically tilted off the car jack nearly crushing my hand. then the car jack got stuck between a brick and my side skirts -_-
so then i had to call my cousin to come lend me his jack so i cud get the thing out. Sighs
finally i took it to a mechanic, who had to drive my car onto a plank of wood and use 2 car jacks to lift my car up cause mine was so damn low she cudnt fit anything underneath lol.
then she unscrewed it and re rivtted the plate back together. malletted the thing flat and screwed it back on, ensuring that she bend it upwards a bit to prevent hooking again (the exhaust now sits lower than the heat shield does). and yes the mechanic was this 19 year old tiny little asian girl who i could no believe was the one fixing my car. and she totally knew her stuff.
so $40 down, an uncrushed hand, and a newlly hammered heatshield later, i have minimal "clunk" inssues when driving. That being said having my car lowered still gives me nightmares as i have to deal with scraping the underside of my lip everytime i go into a gas station cause of their STUUUUUUUPIDLY designed driveways.
Also in regards to buying bigger rims to elevate the car, the girl told me that it wouldnt work because getting bigger mags means i have to get lower profile tyres, offsetting each other....
the only other way is to get bigger mags or higher profile tyres without offsetting each other, thereby having a bigger diameter overall. which is what i wanted. but the down side is that my wheels wont be rolling at the correct speed the odomoter is reading due to the increased circumference....and messing with ur odometer is illegal....so FAROUT MAN...damned if u do, damned if u dont
i have pics of the whole sequence of events, which i will post at a later date when i can be bothered.
on another matter, i popped the hood the other day and had a close look at the air intake. it appears that our stock intake feeds air in from the upper right part of the grill (when facing the car) and draws the air down a pipe, THEN BACK UP AGAIN in a loop wtf, then feeds into the airbox. thats so freaken stupid??
by removing the resonator, it just makes the feed inlet grill/filter thing a free floating useless box, and the airbox is sucking in air vertically downwards? so i fail to see how removing the resonator will make it better cause its not allowing the inlet to face oncoming air lilke the stock configuration does (despite its nonsensical, direction changing loopidy loop)
Way to come back with that super long post LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by furythree
Wow unlucky man...hope everything will get sorted out for you man. All the best!
I've yet still to do anything to my car...just haven't the bloody time to...uni is slowly killing me =(
p.s. was the asian chick mechanic hot? ;)
yeah that what i want to kno too,, cus if she is,,,ROAD TRIP!!
"19 year old tiny little asian girl" in sydney? Whee does she work at????
Also Furry, Havent seen pics of your car recently. Post some up man!
Y'all seedy bastards... :-p
that is some comedy right there...........hahahha sorry man.Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
excessive lowering is 50% headache 50% pain............specially for an everyday sedan.
I seriously hope you don't run over a big pot hole.........cracked oil sumps will be costly.
it takes skills and experience to drive a lowered car without any scrape...
it takes a bravery or pure madness to drive an extremely lowered car.... like 5cm off the ground. (RTA rule is 10cm off the ground i think).
worst case scenario if a major damage hit your oil sump.. you'd have to get it towed and see $,$$$ flowing out of your pocket to fix it.
btw, i also drive a lowered car on Bilstein PSS10 and i have carbon fibre front chin spoiler and carbon fibre exhaust tips, so i always avoid certain areas, intersections, streets and certain shopping centers; and give extreme cautions and long lecturing to the person who is about to take the driver seat :p
thats sounds about right to describe:DQuote:
Originally Posted by natnat
insanity
it's amazing how you get to know every single bump on the roads on your most frequent destinations lol.
especially the ones that caused some damage :pQuote:
Originally Posted by MKI4EVA
i still vaguely remember the area that buckled my 1 mth old 16" TSW wheels in 1997 near Sunnybank Hills in QLD!
OMG you lived in sunnybank too?Quote:
Originally Posted by natnat
I reckon 1/2 of QLD Ozhonda members live around a 20 mil radious of sunnybank
shit, long ass post bro, and bad luck, hope everything goes well from now on...Quote:
Originally Posted by furythree
and i think everyone is intrigued mostly at the 19 year old female asian mechanic chick, sounds like a hotty from fast and furious LOL
yeah i wud move overstate and something will be wrong with my car...ALL THE TIME..
anyways,, what does the CU2 owners think of this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8HD-Car-D...item3f094fd9a7
and
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/D2-RACING...item3cb8c16332
whoag
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2009-Acur...item56319e3878
I would love to hear the sound quality of the DVD player and GPS navigation. I have had experience when we were installing one on his camry. Everything was working fine except the sound was completely different after the installation. The mechanic pointed out that the headunit does not produce enough output to support the sound quality. Correct me if I'm wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by MR_LATE
However still a good add on to the euro where there is camera to help with parking, especially in the city!
omg furythree, thats a laugh.
sorry didnt mean it.
just the events. just like a movie.
hope all goes well from now on.
Sunnybank Hills rep! :P Mate you should see the speedbumps n crap they put around the Sunnybank shopping complexes now :PQuote:
Originally Posted by natnat
That's coz a major of OzHonda members I think are Asian ;). You around Sunnybank too mate?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Lolol ^ damn straight!...where's our reply and pics FURY!!! :PQuote:
Originally Posted by euroRwannabe
Lol I'm bang in middle of sunnybank.
i miss the Sunnybank Kingsfood Taiwanese pork chop! :P
YO! been missing from the internet world for awhile now :)
here are some shots recently taken...just felt like posting it here since i've never posted any pics in this thread :P
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ography/16.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ography/15.jpg
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ography/14.jpg
mmmm anal beads on the rear view mirror.. nice! thumbs up*
lol sorry guys, been super busy with work
will post some pics over the weekend,
but getting the car looked at to fix the bloody left side skirt so i can open the door!
bodykitskingdom just emailed me some pics of the mugen wing spoiler. cant access hotmail from work. so will look at them tonight. seriously considering it, but all boils down to whether the screw holes align with my existing wing
http://www.tenzoracingsports.com/main.php?page=wheels
your thoughts on the cuzco type 1..
I like them!!Quote:
Originally Posted by MR_LATE
gonna pick up my cu2 next week.. quite excited lol
sweet as dude! welcome to the club in advance!Quote:
Originally Posted by visconti
how come a cu2?
regarding pricing or quality?Quote:
Originally Posted by MR_LATE
Price wise , Tenzo's i think are from the US of A.
BUT they are simmilar to Lenso! so....you can have a look at Lenso ones which are identical if not exactly the same coz from memory, they are manufactured from the same factory.
Quality wise, VERY good for sub 2000 wheel. Had them in my previous car and never had any issues with buckling, paint peeling off whatsoever.
:)
i think Tenzo is made by Lenso in Thailand.Quote:
Originally Posted by yungquan
good quality at budget price.
came across these...
http://articles.dashzracing.com/2009...or-headlights/
http://articles.dashzracing.com/wp-c...ura-tsx-12.jpg
http://articles.dashzracing.com/wp-c...ura-tsx-13.jpg
each to their own tastes....
a teaser...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-bp1WkGj5c
any one game to test this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2009-...iesQQxZ54QQyZ7
How is that gonna work?! Cu2s header is welded on, so you cant really just bolt on an exhaust manifod to fit the turbo.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1six8
Not sure...just throwing it up....seems to work for the cu2 tsx in the US....not sure bout here....Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
when there's a will, there is a way :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
They're designed for the LHD TSX meaning that the beam patter is different to our Euro's. If you see your stock HID patterns against a wall, you'll see one that the left headlight is aimed higher than that of the right headlight. It's opposite for the TSX so if you bring these here you'll be lighting up the other side of the road causing a lot of glare to oncoming traffic and less light onto the actual road and side you see.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1six8
Cool folding mirrors though, do they actually work with our Euro's though?
yup, they do...Quote:
Originally Posted by I CU2
hint..audm cu2 + jdm folding mirrors + tsx remote flip key...