Well it has been over a month since my installation was to take place, and I'm not much closer to it. My son's motor bike was damaged while parked and TOTALLED so he's been using my wife's car until the bike gets replaced. So I can't monopolise her car while mine is in the audio shop. Hopefully in two weeks' time.
In the meantime, the audio has been adjusted. Gone are the back door speakers. An extra amplifier has been thrown in - a Schneider SPA 9702A 2-channel amp. My Hertz HSK165 splits are being split - they are losing the passive crossover and going active crossover so they can be time-aligned by the JBL MS-8.
I'm also replacing the battery, going for a FULLRIVER 12V 55AH DEEP CYCLE AGM battery. This battery is 100% spill-proof even if damaged, can be discharged to over 80% of capacity which makes it excellent for high power amps, yet provides sufficient instantaneous cranking current for repeated engine starting. It has a 2 year warranty and a 5-to-10 year service life. Actual voltage available will be significantly greater than 12 volts, probably over 14 volts, which is optimum for most high quality car audio amplifiers. The 3.5 farad capacitor should keep the voltage to the amps more-or-less constant to the amplifiers. The battery terminals will be replaced with gold-plated terminals with digital voltage readout, able to accept multiple + and - cables up to 0GA. Total fuse requirements still to be determined.
- Bury CC9060 IQ voice-controlled Bluetooth
- Bury Series 9 Modular Base and Active Phone Cradle for HTC Desire
- JBL MS-8 8-channel Digital Sound Processor / 8-channel Amplifier
- Alpine MRV-F405 4-channel Amplifier
- Schneider SPA 3072A 2-channel Amplifier
- Schneider SPA 6000x mono block Amplifier
- Hertz HSK 165 splits (new model) for front doors and pillars (replacing existing speakers)
- Infinity 652i coax speakers for rear parcel shelf (replacing existing speakers)
- Infinity 452i coax speaker for centre front shelf (replacing existing speaker)
- Phase Linear HC-12 subwoofer for boot
- VFM Audio 1.4 cu ft sealed subwoofer enclosure
- SSL 3.5 Farad stiffening capacitor
- FullRiver 12V 55AH deep cycle AGM battery
I have edge-braced and massively sound-deadened the subwoofer enclosure. For some subs sound-deadening can be a problem as it effectively increases the volume by perhaps 15%, putting more strain on the sub's motor (most subs rely to some extent on the internal air pressure of the enclosure to help the motor return the cone to rest. The Phase Linear sub can be used as a "free-air" sub, so its motor is not expected to require that help).
The wheel arches have been sound-deadened, using 3M Sound Deadener spray paint. The result has been very good, but I shall be adding more sound deadener in the next few days as I'm not completely happy with it yet.
The bonnet has been sound-deadened using a combination of constrained layer dampening (CLD) (like DynaMat) over 25% of the surface, then covered by foam-backed Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV). Sound deadening the bonnet has been very instructive - the direction of engine noise has changed from my face to my feet, meaning that the bonnet was one major conduit of engine noise, with the rest coming through the firewall.
The boot area under the spare tyre has been sound deadened using CLD 25% and completely covered by MLV. Exhaust noise has been lessened, but not nearly enough - the rest of the boot floor needs to be done.
The following areas will be similarly sound-proofed or sound-deadened:
- Rear shelf
- Boot
- Doors
- Firewall
- Floor between firewall and front seats
That's all for now
Regards
Warren
Originally Posted by Sambo73
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