i'm new be nice

Hey all
i"m new to the honda forums. i just bought a 04 accord euro luxury 6sp in Artic blue.
i've read lots about the euros only needing better breathing to get basic improvements i was just wondering if anyone can tell me where to look for cai and should i just bite the bullet and buy a mugen exhaust system? also the standard 6 stacker HU how easy is it the connect the AUX lead or is there any HU that fit nicely where i dont have to molest the dash, can you hoo up a sub to the standard HU?
has anyone put the ep3 civic type R 17s on their Euro? what do you think? any pics?
cheers

Hey mate, welcome!

Most people go with a CAI (Cold Air Intake) and exhaust for 'breathing' but CAI does make a moderate difference!

It's pretty easy to get to the inside of the dash, alot of people go for a aftermarket headunit, or make use of the AUX Bus socket on the CD player, I would recommend this to anyone that wants just USB/AUX without having to modify and buy a Fascia. http://www.cushieaudio.com.au/honda-usb2p.html

You can buy single/double din fascias from Honda for about $86, just replaces the middle dash compartment.

Goodluck!

where would be a good place to start with cai? and what sorta $$$ would i be looking at?
cheers

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...d-13-August-05

Have a look through that thread, heaps of helpful guides and comparisons between parts.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by EuroCliffy

where would be a good place to start with cai? and what sorta $$$ would i be looking at?
cheers

---

1stly Hi Welcome to Ozhonda.

$$ will depend on whatchu after. Something proven? $500 tops, JDM Points? upwards of $700, Just sound? As low as $30 bucks!

Just settle for Injen as this will earn you JDM Brownie Points and its Proven with a bang for buck for under $500.

welcome mate - i have exactly the same car in black =)

firstly exhaust - the standard exhaust system on our cars are good for up to 200hp so unless your about to spend 2k$ on your engine i wouldnt bother
the main restriction in the stock exhaust system is the exhaust manifold - so you are much better off saving for a good set of headers
most brands are around the $400-$600 mark but the best one is the Toda setup at upwards of $1000 if you can afford it

secondly intake - now this all depends on what you want from your car - the two best options here are the Fujita/Injen CAI kit or the Comptech Icebox Intake kit
the Fujita/Injen CAI kit will give you a slight gain in the top end and give that loud induction roar
the Comptech kit will give you more of an all round gain with a nice torque spike in the mid range, it will give more of that European sports car sound and is also nice and quiet off throttle
(theres also the Gruppe-M/Mugen kits which has the best points of both of the above but will cost around the $1000 mark)

another couple of things you can change without spending thousands are the engine drive pulleys - light weight pulleys will give you similar results to a light weight flywheel and a bit of power to boot
underdrive pulleys will give you the above performance gain plus a bit more power - but there is some controversy over putting too much stress on the cars electrical system by running the alternator too low

a good set of tires will make all the difference as well

adding a bigger rear swaybar will dramatically increase the handling characteristics of the CL9 - anything larger than 18/19mm will require stronger end links as well as the standard ones break once u go bigger than that

the stock K24 flywheel is quite heavy as well - changing the clutch and flywheel is a good mod to do

if you have a good mechanic and access to the parts - changing the gear ratios and final drive with K20 Type-R components is regarded as one of the best value for money mods you can do on our CL9

the usual modification route taken by us CL9 owners are:
- intake - Comptech or Fujita/Injen
- headers - Comptech or PLM
- clutch/flywheel - Exedy or Ralco RZ is what most use but the big brands do them too Spoon, Toda, etc
- pulley kit - Ralco RZ or Unorthodox Racing (light weight or underdrive)
- suspension - a good set of coilovers or strut and spring combo
- wheels/tires - an alloy from one of the later Type-R's and Bridgestone RE002's seem to be a good value for money combination
- some braces - Ultra Racing carry pretty much every brace you want for CL9
- rear swaybar - again Ultra Racing carry a nice kit for this
- brakes - Remsa Pads with T3 slotted rotors seem to be a popular choice

this is where most stop - but to keep going you would be doing the following:
(most of these mods require management ie hondata)
- RRC intake manifold (from the newer JDM civic type-r)
- Hondata intake manifold gasket
- USDM TSX intake cam - was stronger than ours
- Toda 45deg VTC - standard VTC is limited to 25deg but the engine can go up to 45
- Hondata Flashpro engine management system with TSX ECU and a tune
- good quality JDM exhaust system

from here you get really serious with either fully built n/a engine, turbo or supercharger - talking 10k$ build just for power mods

i hope this was helpful and saves you the hours of research that i did to build myself a mods list lol

injen give max jdm point casue made in the US and jap like that

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Daveho1

injen give max jdm point casue made in the US and jap like that

---

Hahaha forgot about that.

Well you know what I mean, fanboy points?

see i dont think so, injen arnt expensive they are just a good piece of gear.
nothing wrong with buying something good at a decent price

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Daveho1

see i dont think so, injen arnt expensive they are just a good piece of gear.
nothing wrong with buying something good at a decent price

---

You high?

I just cleaned my injen and replaced the hydro shield. Ofcourse there is nothing wrong with injen, from all the intakes i've seen on the market. Injen takes the cake. Affordability vs Performance gain, its really bang for buck. I recommend them. Had them all my cars expect the jazz, as its got bigger plans.

no one gives the K&N Typhoon CAI the credit it is due

welcome abourd

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by amant02

You high?

I just cleaned my injen and replaced the hydro shield. Ofcourse there is nothing wrong with injen, from all the intakes i've seen on the market. Injen takes the cake. Affordability vs Performance gain, its really bang for buck. I recommend them. Had them all my cars expect the jazz, as its got bigger plans.

---

reread my post mate, im pointing out its not really fanboy...
i wouldnt say they are the best thing ever though but they are a good middle ground

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by amant02

You high?

I just cleaned my injen and replaced the hydro shield. Ofcourse there is nothing wrong with injen, from all the intakes i've seen on the market. Injen takes the cake. Affordability vs Performance gain, its really bang for buck. I recommend them. Had them all my cars expect the jazz, as its got bigger plans.

---

Injen's Meh.

It's more fanboi points than anything else

hell, a comptech icebox makes more HP than Injen and cost almost 50% less

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/tech-arti...acura-tsx.html

Best CAI for the CL9 is the K&N Typhoon, and it cost the same as Injen.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheSaint

the main restriction in the stock exhaust system is the exhaust manifold - so you are much better off saving for a good set of headers

---

OP's got a Preface, deal with the 900 cel CAT before header, or better yet do them together.

Quote:

---

most brands are around the $400-$600 mark but the best one is the Toda setup at upwards of $1000 if you can afford it

---

Weapon R is bang for buck because"
1. Comes with test pipe (therefore you can weld a cat to it w/o screwing around with pipes)
2. its' stock length, unlike the Hytech/PLM setup that would need you to screw up your stock/aftermarket catback to make everything fit

Quote:

---

secondly intake - now this all depends on what you want from your car - the two best options here are the Fujita/Injen CAI kit or the Comptech Icebox Intake kit
the Fujita/Injen CAI kit will give you a slight gain in the top end and give that loud induction roar

---

K&N makes most HP i'd go with that.

Quote:

---

another couple of things you can change without spending thousands are the engine drive pulleys - light weight pulleys will give you similar results to a light weight flywheel and a bit of power to boot

---

agreed I have OEM sized lightened pulley, makes a massive different lower down.

Quote:

---

adding a bigger rear swaybar will dramatically increase the handling characteristics of the CL9 - anything larger than 18/19mm will require stronger end links as well as the standard ones break once u go bigger than that

---

$60 for new stiffened endlinks (i upgraded to moorgs for my CTE 22mm), well worth it

Quote:

---

if you have a good mechanic and access to the parts - changing the gear ratios and final drive with K20 Type-R components is regarded as one of the best value for money mods you can do on our CL9

---

Only if you are doing ECU mods at the same time cause you'll need to recalibrate the speedo.

havent seen many comptech iceboxs round lately...havnt been looking though

has anyone used the Honda GROM USB2+ ? and how hard is it to install or should i just take it to someone to install cause i really don't want to molest the dash. seeing i have leather interior and don't want my seats to go to crap wheres the best place to get seat covers which allow for the side airbags seeing honda doesn't offer a set anymore?

thanks for the corrections Fredoops - good info
forgot to mention changing the cat + headers at the same time >.<

comptech parts can be ordered direct from their website

and for the Injen fanboys - Fujita is miles better - same design but better quality materials and way better pod design
Fujita also gives more choice in material selection - wrinkle black, chrome, black chrome, bronze etc

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fredoops

Weapon R is bang for buck because"
1. Comes with test pipe (therefore you can weld a cat to it w/o screwing around with pipes)
2. its' stock length, unlike the Hytech/PLM setup that would need you to screw up your stock/aftermarket catback to make everything fit

---

do you know if the comptech kit is stock size and fitment?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheSaint

do you know if the comptech kit is stock size and fitment?

---

It is

But comptech don't exactly have the best gains, it's not a race header

And it doesn't comes with a test pipe.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheSaint

and for the Injen fanboys - Fujita is miles better - same design but better quality materials and way better pod design
Fujita also gives more choice in material selection - wrinkle black, chrome, black chrome, bronze etc

---

thats true, in other news rota make the best wheels same design as jdm but beter quality materials.
where do u supose fujita mine there wrinkle black cause its a good material? where do supose the wrinkle black refinery is?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Daveho1

thats true, in other news rota make the best wheels same design as jdm but beter quality materials.
where do u supose fujita mine there wrinkle black cause its a good material? where do supose the wrinkle black refinery is?

---

I've got no clue what your 2nd sentence is supposed to express.

the point is that wrinkle black is not a material, its a finish that can be put on anything you want.

whatever man, no need to be an asshat about it - both injen and fujita are from america
the pod filter and mounting hardware you get in the fujita box is much better than injen
and overall i have never seen a fujita kit dent or bend but i have seen various injen kits damaged just from installation or removal

do you know which data cable my euro would take hon1m, mbus or hon92?
cheers

I thought weapon r was cheapy ebay brand Oo

nice and stock! i wanted a blue one but the grey one i have was too clean to say no too for the price! Welcome look forward to seeing more mods on your car!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by amant02

I thought weapon r was cheapy ebay brand Oo

---

so did i - but from talking with Fredoops i have gone back and looked at them

they do make nice headers and some nice Ti bits and bobs - their cheaper parts and torque dampers have a bad name tho

they are suppose to be better than PLM but alot of guys are selling out their weapon R's for PLM headers

i really want headers but the whole thing is so confusing

might just save up and baller out with some Todas lol

How can Weapon R be better then PLM?

I thought PLM were selling Toda Style - Same dimensions, runner lenghts etc etc. Just made from Stainless steel.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by amant02

How can Weapon R be better then PLM?

I thought PLM were selling Toda Style - Same dimensions, runner lenghts etc etc. Just made from Stainless steel.

---

PLM is nothing like Toda,

PLM header for the CL9 is a Hytech replica

Whoa not comparing Toda against PLM, any tom dick and harry knows Toda is King Shit.

I thought PLM took the proven macfactures desgines and specs and makes it out of stainless steel and sells it for fraction of the price.

So we get similar proformance.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheSaint

whatever man, no need to be an asshat about it - both injen and fujita are from america
the pod filter and mounting hardware you get in the fujita box is much better than injen
and overall i have never seen a fujita kit dent or bend but i have seen various injen kits damaged just from installation or removal

---

the injen is a thinner material, its lighter and reduces heat transfer. the pod filters are irrelevent, as they both provide enough flow and theres nothing wrong with the mounting hardware on the injen the diffrence is that injen do there own research and development where as fujita copy the work of other company.... its rota all over again
thats the way i understand it anyway please correct me if im wrong

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Daveho1

the injen is a thinner material, its lighter and reduces heat transfer. the pod filters are irrelevent, as they both provide enough flow and theres nothing wrong with the mounting hardware on the injen the diffrence is that injen do there own research and development where as fujita copy the work of other company.... its rota all over again
thats the way i understand it anyway please correct me if im wrong

---

they dont copy others work - they are a more expensive and high end version of Injen
maybe you got a cheap imitation fujita because i have installed alot of kits now and every single one was better than the Injen in everyway
and the pod filter is alot better - we did a dyno test in the workshop back in the day by swapping them around and doing power runs and the fujita won out every time
the only thing that beat the fujita pod filter was the apexi one (basically the same design)

every time i have inspected fujita and injen for servicing the injen pod is always torn or ripped or something on it is rusty
fujita almost dont even need to be checked now because theres never a fault

not being a fan boy - i just like the results - most of the time fujita isnt that much more expensive

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Daveho1

the injen is a thinner material, its lighter and reduces heat transfer.

---

Wrong

Lighter and thinner pipes means INCREASED heatsoak and heat transfer rates, it's worse.

Quote:

---

the pod filters are irrelevent, as they both provide enough flow and theres nothing wrong with the mounting hardware on the injen the diffrence is that injen do there own research and development where as fujita copy the work of other company.... its rota all over again

---

Didnt Fujita came out with the CAI for TSX BEFORE Injen??

Regardless, the oiled cotton filter Injen use, wasn't that a "K&N" design originally? like, from the 1960's? SO are they copycats of K&N oiled cotton design?


You got an attitude problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by amant02

Whoa not comparing Toda against PLM, any tom dick and harry knows Toda is King Shit.

I thought PLM took the proven macfactures desgines and specs and makes it out of stainless steel and sells it for fraction of the price.

So we get similar proformance.

---

they are a replica of the Hytech headers - which is suppose to be a very good header but i dont think they make them anymore
i havnt actually seen a PLM one yet but from what i have seen/read on US forums the material they use is fairly cheap/crap
but the design is very good and people are getting good gains ...

weaponR make the best bang for buck gains and i havnt seen anyone have any major issues with them
but their other products are known to crap out - engine torque damper, intake kits etc

DC header apparently is similar to weaponR but has issues with the flex pipes dying

Comptech dont seem to have any complaints but dont get very good gains for the price

then theres Toda which are amazing in everyway but cost $1200 odd

and yet another - Maxim Works (which is the company that makes Toda's headers)
basically a Toda header but slightly higher quality and a $1600 price tag

im leaning toward the WeaponR header - or i might just save a bit more and keep my eyes open for a Toda
mate just sold a used one in good condition for $800 ...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fredoops

Wrong

Lighter and thinner pipes means INCREASED heatsoak and heat transfer rates, it's worse.




Didnt Fujita came out with the CAI for TSX BEFORE Injen??

---

Fredoops is right - lighter and thinner means more heat transfer
and as far as i know they came out with a kit before Injen did

they also made a better kit for the Dc2 VTI-R (different intake manifold position) than Injen as well

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheSaint

they are a replica of the Hytech headers - which is suppose to be a very good header but i dont think they make them anymore
i havnt actually seen a PLM one yet but from what i have seen/read on US forums the material they use is fairly cheap/crap
but the design is very good and people are getting good gains ...

weaponR make the best bang for buck gains and i havnt seen anyone have any major issues with them
but their other products are known to crap out - engine torque damper, intake kits etc

DC header apparently is similar to weaponR but has issues with the flex pipes dying

Comptech dont seem to have any complaints but dont get very good gains for the price

then theres Toda which are amazing in everyway but cost $1200 odd

and yet another - Maxim Works (which is the company that makes Toda's headers)
basically a Toda header but slightly higher quality and a $1600 price tag

im leaning toward the WeaponR header - or i might just save a bit more and keep my eyes open for a Toda
mate just sold a used one in good condition for $800 ...

---

+1 for Weapon R Header

how dose having a thicker pipe reduce heat soak?
you have a relevence problem,
i said the filter is irrelevent and im not even refrencing it.
i donno did fujita do an intake for the tsx first? how dose it compair ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Daveho1

how dose having a thicker pipe reduce heat soak?

---

Basic thermal conductivity, what did you fail physics?

Thermal resistance formula: L/(kA) or in English (something you appear to be failing to grasp): Thickness/(conductivity*area)

Else being equal the greater the thickness the greater the thermal resistance.

To put it in stupid speak:
A thin wok pan vs a thick cash iron pot, which heats up quicker?
A single brick house vs double brick house, which is cooler?

Now quit being an ass who thinks he knows everything.
Aren't you the same bloke who didn't believe in such thing as oxidation in engine oil in another thread?

Fredoops beat me to the physics correction
been dealing with alot of people like this lately - not afraid to run off their mouth but then have no idea about the mechanics behind anything
makes me wonder about the schools they have been attending - i would be asking for a refund

physics aside, i am a mechanical engineer and on product design basis the fujita still has my vote

and i fail to see how the filter irrelevant? its one of (if not the only) most important parts of the kit -.-

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fredoops

Basic thermal conductivity, what did you fail physics?

Thermal resistance formula: L/(kA) or in English (something you appear to be failing to grasp): Thickness/(conductivity*area)

Else being equal the greater the thickness the greater the thermal resistance.

To put it in stupid speak:
A thin wok pan vs a thick cash iron pot, which heats up quicker?
A single brick house vs double brick house, which is cooler?

Now quit being an ass who thinks he knows everything.
Aren't you the same bloke who didn't believe in such thing as oxidation in engine oil in another thread?

---

what oil oxidation thread?
secondly im happy to be corrected as physics isnt my strong suit as i never studied it, i had it explained to me by someone whom i trusted and has made some exceptionally quick cars,so thats my bad. but wouldnt then the same be true that yes a thicker pipe would offer greater resistance to heating up but then take longer to cool aswell?
seeing if i can strike out compleatly here, i have always been under the impression (as stated in my previous post) that fujita are a copy company, once i realised i may have been misinformed on the subject i chucked there name into google and ebay is the first thing to come up, when you find there website the contact address is in poland?
is it a case of they are just a small off shoot of some other company or ??

their proper trading name was F5A or F5 Air - but it looks like they have been bought out or something
the US website is no longer around and there's only the Europe site now
that's a shame - hopefully the quality doesn't suffer =/

http://www.fujita-intakes.com/eng/

its still the first to come up in Google though

I think ill try fujita for my jazz instead of Injen

yh fujita sound more jdm

where can you buy a ct icebox in sydney? or do you guys order online?

GUYS does anyone know of a thread where it shows how to install the Honda GROM USB2+ in a 04 euro?
cheers

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by EuroCliffy

GUYS does anyone know of a thread where it shows how to install the Honda GROM USB2+ in a 04 euro?
cheers

---

you need to take the centre console out and plug the thing to the back of it.

some thing like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rodcoUaIOpI

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NrGX

where can you buy a ct icebox in sydney? or do you guys order online?

---

I got mine from JDM yard.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fredoops

I got mine from JDM yard.

---

Seems like it's out of stock. Anywhere else ?

order direct from their site - or email JDMyard and they will most likely get it in for you

This thread got way off topic fast...

I may be able to clarify some things here in a bang for buck sense.

To the O.P.

start by forgetting a full intake.. Just buy a drop in K&N panel filter and remove your intake resonator.
Changing the material of the intake tube yields no gains other than cosmetic. Cosmetic = Cop attn.

Exhaust wise, find an 06 cat. Bolt up a PLM header and leave the rest. PLM have the most durability second only to Toda and there results are respectable.

Suspension, forget lowered springs. They a waste of money. Buy an entry level coilover such as Tanabe Sustec Pro or BuddyClub.
BC coils are a lot harder than Tanabe, so choose based on how the roads you drive on are.

Rear camber.. Try and delete as much of it as possible. Avoid Skunk2 (Junk2). Get Hardrace, Good pricing.
RSB. I had, then returned to oem. Front Bracing is also not really an improvement, if anything a rear boot brace only.

Tires, buy good ones.

Those basic bolt on 1hr jobs will make your car a heap more entertaining to drive. If later on more power wanted, then drop in either an 06 CL9 intake cam or TSX (if you can find) intake cam. No EMS upgrade req for that.

If EMS upgrade happens Its a good idea to fit a CU2 exhaust cam gear to your stock exhaust cam and a K20A vtc intake cam gear. Also try and use the K20A upper timing chain guide. It has a much larger surface are over the chain up there than the K24 Euro or TSX item. Leave the chain tensioner alone too.

Lightweight pulleys are ok.. Just not under drive ones.

Flywheel makes a huge difference, leave the shift bushings alone. Unless there worn the only replace with oem. Not solid because you will break the cables very quickly.

Intake manifold also leave alone, the costs to change and the highly debatable results aren't worth it at all. Just do the usual T.B coolant bypass trick and maybe bolt on the 06 throttle body + thermal gasket. P2R spacers also do nothing.

All in all very easy and cheap things to do.

Been thru it more than anyone knows lol.

^^^ good advice - seen his work in person - he knows what hes doing =p

i still prefer the comptec icebox over the stock intake + k+n filter
(it only changes the top lid, the filter and the air scoop where the resonator used to be)
good value for money imo

any more info on PLM verses weaponR headers shmivic?

i bought shmivics Tanabe Sustec Pro coilovers and they are almost a perfect balance between comfort and sport

i got hardrace rear lower arms to adjust toe + camber - mutch better quality than the skunk2 ones i have used in the past

as for front bracing - i got the ultra racing front-middle-lower H brace and i did notice a difference in turn in response
(not a huge difference but worth the $100 odd that i paid for it)

what was the reason for returning to stock RSB? other than snapping endlinks?
from what i am told its a good mod for the euro

iv been wanting to do the TSX intake cam but everyone says you need EMS? any more info on that shmivic?

i got the RalcoRZ light wieght pulleys - not underdrive
very slight difference in low-mid revs but nothing to get excited about - still worth the $160odd

from looking at (and trying mates) different short shift + bush kits imo its pretty much useless - euro has a nice throw from factory

i really need to do my clutch + flywheel asap - any suggestions?

i was going to get a J35 throttle body from USA - is the 06 throttle body the same?

thanks for the info shmivic - need to catch up for beers again soon =p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheSaint

i still prefer the comptec icebox over the stock intake + k+n filter
(it only changes the top lid, the filter and the air scoop where the resonator used to be)
good value for money imo

any more info on PLM verses weaponR headers shmivic?

what was the reason for returning to stock RSB? other than snapping endlinks?
from what i am told its a good mod for the euro

iv been wanting to do the TSX intake cam but everyone says you need EMS? any more info on that shmivic?

i really need to do my clutch + flywheel asap - any suggestions?

i was going to get a J35 throttle body from USA - is the 06 throttle body the same?

thanks for the info shmivic - need to catch up for beers again soon =p

---

Ct icebox is only a smoothed version of the oem item. Same volume. In terms of atomisation, I prefer "dirty or turbulent" airflow. Shown in the past that turbulent air mixes with fuel mist a great deal evenly in the combustion chamber.

PLM vs WPR.. Weapon is thinner wall thickness. Prime to crack at the collector. Dyno wise they read within 2hp of each other.

Clutch go for carbonetics full plate (no puck). Exedy flywheel is very good for the $
$ to replace clutch and fly is large. Almost engine out job to do. Front subframe req half removal and near impossible without hoist.

J37 throttle body is better and bigger than J35. Same DBW plug as CL9. Adapters are readily available.

Can run TSX intake cam with stock vtc. EMS upgrade with that only req if you wish to tune vtc. Straight bolt in (no EMS) shows a nice gain, around 10-15whp iirc

And rsb I found to make the car get all 3 wheel motion on the track. I like to keep all 4 wheels on the ground while cornering.

thanks for the advice man - this is really helping the decision making process - i know what you mean about the atomisation of air and fuel - hence no PnP on intake ports of a head etc
car already came with comptech box and im happy with it - tried the oem one again, and a SRI and a CAI - only one i really liked was comptech
(unless a gruppe-M comes up for a price that wont require me to sell one of my kidneys)

i was very torn with the whole header decision - originally i was going to get the comptech kit - but from reviews and advice on here they dont make great gains for the price
PLM is looking better each time - do you know anyone that has used them on a honda?
(again - unless a toda comes up at a good price - i wish i had the right money at the time of when you sold yours - that was a good price)

clutch is on its last legs in this car so its going to have to be done sooner or later - im not hunting big power with the euro and dont want the clutch to be too heavy
i was just going to get the exedy O.E. clutch and exedy lightened flywheel - any reason this is a bad idea?

would the throttle body upgrade really be needed? the only major power mods i plan to do in the foreseeable future is the TSX intake cam
i have seen them cheap so im all for it - but is the oem unit that much of a restriction on an n/a setup?

eventually i will get TSX ecu, flashpro and toda VTC - but for now ill be sticking with the stock setup and TSX intake cam
i was thinking of getting a VAFC or Neo just to use as a monitor and bringing vtec down a 1krpm or so for weekend drives
(i know they reset everytime on euro - i would only put in settings on a weekend drive etc)
i dont want to loose VSA or cruise control tho - the car is a daily not a track warrior (thats what my EG is for heh)

as for RSB - i was thinking of getting the ultra racing 18mm kit - not too agressive but a touch more punch than oem
i have found a couple of times now in wide sweep corners that the back end could use a bit more strength

once again - thanks for the advice - say the word and ill bring beers down to the workshop =p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheSaint

eventually i will get TSX ecu, flashpro and toda VTC - but for now ill be sticking with the stock setup and TSX intake cam
i was thinking of getting a VAFC or Neo just to use as a monitor and bringing vtec down a 1krpm or so for weekend drives
(i know they reset everytime on euro - i would only put in settings on a weekend drive etc)
i dont want to loose VSA or cruise control tho - the car is a daily not a track warrior (thats what my EG is for heh)

---

Well I have a CamCon H unit sitting in the garage doing nothing if you want.

pm on its way ...

cheers for all your help shmivic. so an update on my euro got 18% tints done last week which looks tight with the chrome outline around the windows and i also got a grom usb2 units which is amazing. i realised the other day i'm missing the rear driver side euro floor mate and also the user manual which goes with the service manual, does anyone know where i could find these? and can anyone tell me if you can hook an amp/sub to the standard stereo? and how to remove the rear speaker grills to change the 6x9s as in the past i haven't had such nice cars and just hacked them out or they had already been changed.

Amps/subs can be easily hooked up to oem radio.

What you need;
Amp + install kit
Sub + box
Multimeter
Hi>Lo RF converter


Took hook up amp / sub into euro with oem radio first buy what's called a hi/Lo rf converter, usually around $15 online or from Jaycar.
What that does is takes two channels of high rf (normal speaker) and convert to low rf (RCA) which you use to aus the amp.

Wire the converter off the rear parcel shelf speakers, then re-power them with the amp. (4 channel amp) x2 channels to re power parcel shelf and two bridged at 4ohm for the sub.

Wiring the amp is easy, main power off the battery, remote wired off the "switched" +12v line at the ignition barrel and then the earth for the amp.

The whole lot should only take you about an hour to install. At least that's how long mine took.

Never removed the parcel shelf though.

im also missing the service log and book - does anyone know where i can get a replacement

is there haynes workshop manual available? i have had a search for euro and tsx but didnt really find anything

Log book is really only avail from the dealer. Prepare to be farked in the arse for it tho.

There are acura tsx workshop manuals around online just do a search for it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fredoops

Log book is really only avail from the dealer. Prepare to be farked in the arse for it tho.

There are acura tsx workshop manuals around online just do a search for it.

---

OFF TOPIC:

So Fred how come you haven't gone the WHOLE performance path yet: - cams, intake manifold, throttle body thermal gasket, fuel rail, (also, will you ever get a catback? Or just 2.5inch mid pipe with resonator, keeping OEM muffler and Y section? 45-50 VTC (not sure), + flashpro tune? I know you're still working on the tune business, which probably answers the question. But will you go all out on the 5AT anytime soon and get some nice numbers and power?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by axispower

OFF TOPIC:

So Fred how come you haven't gone the WHOLE performance path yet: - cams, intake manifold, throttle body thermal gasket, fuel rail, (also, will you ever get a catback? Or just 2.5inch mid pipe with resonator, keeping OEM muffler and Y section? 45-50 VTC (not sure), + flashpro tune? I know you're still working on the tune business, which probably answers the question. But will you go all out on the 5AT anytime soon and get some nice numbers and power?

---

1. I have a 25 degree VTC sitting in a box waiting to be machined to 45 degree
2. I dont have 200hp atw yet so no changes to exhaust is needed, I do have a MaximWorks (Feel's) header going in soon.
3. Im not going any further until I have control of the ECM myself
4. Im focused on exterior and wheels at the moment, so im kinda occupied.
5. I don't wish to use any Hondata product after the whole debacle with PGMFI forums, and what hondata basically did in shutting down potential competition, so im DIY'in the Reflash.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fredoops

1. I have a 25 degree VTC sitting in a box waiting to be machined to 45 degree
2. I dont have 200hp atw yet so no changes to exhaust is needed, I do have a MaximWorks (Feel's) header going in soon.
3. Im not going any further until I have control of the ECM myself
4. Im focused on exterior and wheels at the moment, so im kinda occupied.
5. I don't wish to use any Hondata product after the whole debacle with PGMFI forums, and what hondata basically did in shutting down potential competition, so im DIY'in the Reflash.

---

Interesting. So what do you have planned for exterior?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by axispower

Interesting. So what do you have planned for exterior?

---

OEM preface Modulo/Aspec kit, Advan RG2 rims

coils, new RSB bushings, S/S braided brakelines, and probably rigid collar

cant wait to see it

EDIT: http://www.homemadeturbo.com/engine-...r-pgmfi-85287/

Had no idea about this.

it should work if i use one of those converters and then have a rca splitter connection to connect 2 amps 1 for sub and 1 for speakers shmivic? Also after closer inspection I noticed they don't' use the rubber plugs around the air con pipes that go into the firewall which I'm used to feeding power cables through where would you suggest feeding them?
Cheers