As title says I wana to go out and pickup a short ram intake for my integra TODAY
JDMyard only have CAI unfortunately.. Does anyone know who stocks them??
CHeers,
mike
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As title says I wana to go out and pickup a short ram intake for my integra TODAY
JDMyard only have CAI unfortunately.. Does anyone know who stocks them??
CHeers,
mike
The CAI is proven to yield better results.
However if you're after the SRI version. ebay US.
yeah what r3ckless said ebay it but i don't know anybody with an injen SRI before
get a CAI if u can
I know someone with the SRI... Gains are proven but also heat soak is proven to... at least you dont run the risk of hydrolock
Not really too unfortunate lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by kingjumbo
CAI will work better because it has gains above stock, cant always be said for SRI.
if you're scared of hydro-lock (which IMO is an exaggerated risk) go for a GruppeM rather than a SRI
Plenty of threads regarding SRI vs stock available at a click of the search button :)
what brands of sri are available for the dc5r? i have an SRI in my teg but i have nfi what brand it is
injen sri looks like a nice piece of kit.. practical aswell... wouldn't it be a pain in the ass with cai every time you have to clean and oil the pod? plus i don't think heatsoak will ever cause any noticable effects.. my 180 had a pod just sitting there in the engine bay and i never notices any negative effects.. only positive
i can see injen sri for round $300 delivered, i'd just love to pick one up though so i can install it straight away
ps. read in some post this dude did all this testing and short ram was still cooler than the stock airbox anyway.. so still seems like an upgrade nonetheless.. i think it looks awsome.. listened to youtube vids for the sound aswell.. mmmmmmmm
SR20DET SRI position:
http://members.cox.net/jesse99ek/sr20det_004s.jpg
K series SRI position:
http://px6.streetfire.net/0001/92/50/1752905_600.jpg
Big difference. The talk about SRI's being a futile design for DC5/2 is both relavant and restricted the the design of SRI for DC5/2, you probably got gains from your 180SX SRI because it is alot further away, which makes sense.
Here the end of the intake tube and filter sits virtually right next to the back of the engine where the headers are. If you've touched the exhaust manifold even after 30 seconds of the car being turned on you'll understand it gets f-ing hot back there :D
I have no doubts that SRI will sound nice, I have heard it in person on a stock DC5R.
It really is alot louder in the VTEC crossover, but this is misleading in terms of if you think its doing much more than sounding good.
It is true that a dyno run could possibly show that it has a gain above stock (INITIALLY), but say if you did 10 one after the other. Every single one would read a lower and lower reading until you diped below what you started with. Obviously this is because of the engine bay heating up with work.
The effects of heatsoak on a k20 are very real despite what some would say
Seeing for yourself is a good thing... but if you want to save money a good way of confirming CAI > SRI is to see what the big builds are running.
ie The yellow line above this post, the civic that won FWD superlap (CAI)
True that ^^
THe SRI will be alot loduer at vtec when comapred to a CAI... Shorter tube. However liek Lowiezz said, it is very misleading... If your wanta SRI, might as well go customer, get some piping, throw on a pod. it'll be nice and loud :D. If you want an intake that'll give your an icnrease in power/response. Definately get the INJEN CAI. Yes the engine bay will look empty/shit... but how often do you open your bonnet.
@Kingjumbo are you aiming for the tracks? if not, dont be pressured of CAI being superior to SRI. SRI on street use is fine.
ROFL @ someone who says heatsoak is an issue. Obviously he/she has been reading a lot of urban legends.
It is if the SRI is right next to the Exhaust headers.Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
*sigh*Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
Don't tell me you're gonna contaminate this thread too
What would you recommend if OP said he wanted to go to the track then? Since SRI (such as apexi) is aimed at top end gains and injen CAI is aimed at more mid range shouldnt you suggest SRI for the track? Assuming it worked on a DC5.
On the other hand if you do agree that CAI > SRI, I would like most people, prefer to pay $100-150 more for a product that will be superior in all aspects of performance for a DC5
rofl @ someone who ignores heatsoak issues specific to a DC5 engine bay layout and bases their assumptions that it isn't an issue from the fact that certain other cars work , so it will also work with a DC5. He/She must do more than assume a SRI will work effectively because it works on other cars and find out for themselves like I have or research it properly
just look at flick's eg, he is running a sri for the track and that seems do fine
either way, SRI/CAI its all up to the users preference
he does?Quote:
Originally Posted by Stig
Not the best angle, but I cant see an SRI
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/2478/19082009153.jpg
And an extract from his for sale thread
thought he used the CAI for the track, correct me if im wrongQuote:
Originally Posted by FLICK
You're an idiotQuote:
Originally Posted by Stig
Thats because it's an EG and it sits towards the front not the rear.
Theres no room to sit it in the bay at the front for DC5's
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/558/medium/327.jpg
ahh so he does. But that's a big difference to what we're talking about, heatsoak is an issue for the DC5 because as Tai said on his EG it sits in a different position.
Compare the position of the intake to the k24 layout on page one
what is your problem tai? i never attacked you or anyone in this thread, im just suggesting that either SRI or CAI is up to the users preference, either one has pro or cons
grow up
But look at hte passenger headlight, or wait, there isnt one! so the pod sitting there wont suffer frmo heatsoak. All teh cool ait is still being fed directly into the pod itself!
You're comparing 2 totally different cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stig
Thats my problem, you advice is useless because you arent offering advice to what the original poster is asking for which was for a DC5 !!!
What I was referring to was the generalization of SRI having a heat soak issue as posted by some members back in page 1.
I was only stating that flick's eg has an SRI and how SRI dont always have heat soaking issues.
But in the case of the DC5 YES it could provide problems since it located close to the exhaust manifold if you would like me to give advice for the OP.
Ok I've got 3 simple questions:
1) I never intend on taking my car to track, I don't even plan on putting an exhaust on this car.. so is the heat-soak opera even relevant to my situation?
2) If I were to go injen cai instead, do I have to remove bumper or wheel every time I wish to clean the air pod?
3) has anyone actually experienced the real-world effects in normal street driving of this evil deamon we call heat-soak.. like wtf actually happens and in what conditions?
I don't want to ignore all your advice and get a sri setup only to learn I should have listened.. but i'd like to hear a first hand account of anyone who's experienced negative effects in a dc5 from a sri
(ps you guys do realise the injen sri has a heat-shield thing that prevents air from being sucked from the direction of the engine, not that i suppose that makes a massive difference)
spose I could always go custom style like my old n14 SSS.. my setup was kind of like a hybrid between the two.. air pod right up near the intake, with dedicated cool air flow up to the box
I had a HKS SRI in my car for about 3 years without a heat shield. During that time, i only tracked the car once and there were no problems that i could see/feel.
It was quite hard to notice any positive or negative gains in performance, but there was quite a note change when hitting vtec with it.
Imo go with whatever tickles your fancy. As you said, you dont intend to track your car, so i wouldn't worry about the heat soak issue.
LOL....Wow, did i say it was you who mentioned heatsoak?, you ought to do a search for other threads and see how many forum users are talking about heatsoak...not only you're a FIGJAM but you're pretty quick to pull the trigger, why dont you just relax mate coz im not here for your entertainment. Jackass.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowiez
Good on you man, this first question is what im actually looking for, good thing that it least clear things up. Id say an SRI has no real issues with heatsoak (search anywhere if youve heard or seen a street driven DC5 that lost a significant amount of kW due to heatsoak LOL!!) coz people here just are being peer-pressured or brown-nosing each otherQuote:
Originally Posted by kingjumbo
CAI = harder install, better gains, arguable hydro lock risk
SRI = easy install, better response due to shorter piping, louder, arguable heat soak (when moving)
In regards to DC5r, the answer is simple if your performance minded and not getting it for bling/noise factor in which sri would be the way to go.....
- Get a CAI
- Get a SRI and buy a vented bonnet
Street driven? Get a sri for an easy install and cheaper
Also another thing to take in for consideration.. Sri... Is an open pod... Defect.. A cai, the pod is hidden and all u see is a black rubber elbow... With the design of sri for the k20.... I would never buy one.... Simply because the pod sits near the
Firewall, right near the header... Either way, the pod will never suck up any cool air at all. However if eddie aka spoons has tracked the car eith a sri.... Maybe it could be ok... Maybe op should put up a poll for a month and see the response like tgat?
NEXT to the headers YES!, from what i see in that photo of DC5 is it NEXT to the headers?? LMAO!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tai
Well, you also have to take into account what reckless said, that in NSW it is a defect. I was in Perth when i had the SRI and its legal there. You don't want to risk getting a defect when it could have been avoided. Unless of course, you make a custom box to cover it up.
I don't understand what your trying to say...Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
I was the one who reffered to heatsoak, and no it wasn't a generalization. Read it again, its specific to a DC5Quote:
Originally Posted by Stig
Eddy, its hard to understand how he comes to conclusions like that... this guy likes to argue for the hell of it lolQuote:
Originally Posted by SpoonS
He's got negative rep for a reason
@Lowiez, Hahahaha....you must have a literacy problem kiddo (figures why you understand any ABC & 123 i post). The person obviously doesnt want to track his car and the topic is all about SRI and where to get one, he doesnt want a CAI so where did your CAI > SRI come from mate?....so once again you're making a pointless comment where it isnt needed.
@SpoonS "I don't understand what your trying to say... " <------------- errrr.... good, coz i wasnt talking to you?.
Your responses to people make no sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
mate i went from injen megaram sri to injen cai and now back to megaramQuote:
Originally Posted by kingjumbo
and to tell u the truth I luv it.
my low and mid range is heaps better with the megaram, but I felt more power up top with cai. which was pretty useless anyway. driving on the street like how often are you going to hit 7k-8k?. and the throttle response was heaps better with the megaram.
as for heatsoak pffft half the blokes here acting like experts havent even used one in their bloody life
Well use commonsense.... With the pod right at the back of the engine... Its gonna suck up hot air... Engines run better with cool air... At the end of the day, theres gonna be mixed responses on both intakes...
Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
They really, really, don'tQuote:
Originally Posted by SpoonS
@Lowiez Do you have any evidence that HEATSOAK robs a a significant load of kW while street-driving?, Give me a legit answer to that.
@SpoonS OK...let me show this middle-schooler an image so that it makes sense to him/her. ( I'll make it as reader-friendly as possible just for you ) The picture of a DC5 below shown by your bum-chum Lowiez is an engine bay area of a DC5. The header, you know what a header is?, an exhaust manifold is located at the back of the engine near the firewall and that charlie brown is where it generates heat. Now, the pod filter (SRI Type ) shown here is located away from the exhaust manifold and to the side not the back as some people claim its located at the back, lmao.
It will however suck in warm air because its open and within the proximity of the engine bay but kW-robbing HEATSOAK, no.
Get back to me if that still doesnt make any sense so that i can clear things & make a new thread titled " HEATSOAK on SRI, is it really a problem on a daily car " , we'll make a poll and have all these good people at OZHonda to decide. But hey, i shouldnt bother you anyway coz you're the one using an SRI for 3 yrs and find no problems with it and you know what i mean.
http://px6.streetfire.net/0001/92/50/1752905_600.jpg
Thankyou for repeating information that has been already clearly outlined on this thread, let alone the forum.
We know what heatsoak is and if anyone didn't they could have found out on page 1.
So before you make another breakthrough in mechanical knowledge or common sense, remind yourself copy and paste doesnt classify as the previous
No I don't have specific dynographs of heatsoak if I did you'd be seeing it on page 1.
Do you have dynos of:
- Injen CAI vs Injen SRI
- 1" catback exhaust vs 3" catback exhaust
- Benefits of reducing upsprung weight with lightweight rims compared to heavy replicas
^^^
Lack of dynos doesnt discount the mentioned basic knowledge
My point is it doesn't need a dyno to atleast make sense
Of course a dyno would help. but I wouldnt waste money buying/installing/dynoing one just to show you
so to discount it completely:
is stupidQuote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
ps. if you read the thread SpoonS already said it wasn't a major issue for a DD
so don't think your the first to say its no issue on a DD...you're not starting a revolution, but make whatever thread you want
@Lowiez as expected from a FIGJAM, you wouldnt have a single answer to your HEATSOAK theory.
I don't have a dyno for a DC5. That can't be said for other cars with a similar setup
If you really are interested and not just arguing for the sake of it, read
http://racingbeat.com/intake.htm
extract:
Quote:
In addition to our usual round of dyno testing with each intake, we've added over the-road and static intake temperature tests. Intake temperature is perhaps the most important factor that aftermarket intakes can affect. Since every increase of 10 degrees in intake temperature costs almost one percent in power output, an intake that pulls in hot air can actually hurt power, while a properly designed cold-air intake can improve performance far more than the airflow potential would imply.
In conducting our intake temperature testing we've attempted to simulate normal driving with easily repeatable tests conducted at almost identical ambient temperatures. We plumbed a thermocouple into the throttle body for all measurements and conducted moving tests at sustained speeds (45 and 70 mph) in fourth gear. We then stopped and let the car idle, taking measurements after 30 and 60 seconds of idle time to simulate what might happen to intake temperatures in traffic.
In addition to simply presenting these temperatures for your intellectual enlightenment, we used the standard SAE correction factors for temperature and adjusted the dyno readings to represent the effects of intake temperature at 45 mph. Since we always conduct dyno tests with the hood open, this after-the fact correction is a more accurate representation of real-world power gains.
CAI:
http://racingbeat.com/jacksonintake.htm
http://racingbeat.com/images/jackson.jpg
SRI:
http://racingbeat.com/hksintake.htm
EXTRACT:
http://racingbeat.com/images/hks.jpgQuote:
As discussed, the obvious problem with this design is that it places the intake quite close the blazing hot exhaust header. As we've learned time after time from underhood intakes, the power-stagnating effects of engine heat can easily cancel any power gain made an otherwise efficient intake.
RESULT:
Amounts to on the MIATA 2hp atw and 2 LB-ft of torque...JACK ALL. Not much of a difference after 60 seconds. The difference between ambient air temp here from idle at 30 seconds to 60 seconds was 4 degrees and 2% power.
If you can't see how performance will decrease further after the car being on for longer, don't bother trying to understand it.
Times your car is not on for more than 60 seconds:
- moving it from one end of the driveway
.....otherwise this will affect you in some way if you have a SRI right next to the headers, as above.
More information:
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_0360/printArticle.html
EXTRACTS:
Quote:
Intake Air Temps
How hot or cold the intake air is has a big impact on the way an engine performs. High intake air temps will results in decreased power (because there's less oxygen in each cubic foot of air) and also a higher chance of detonation occurring. So, why would the intake air be any hotter than the temp of the day, anyway?
First up, let's take the case of a naturally aspirated engine. Many engines have air intakes that are positioned under the bonnet. This means that lots of the air that is being drawn into the engine has already passed through the radiator - so it's bloody hot! How hot? - up to 60 or 70 degrees C. Of course, there will also be airflow into the engine bay from around the engine, and past openings like the headlights. But in many cases, on a warmer day the air being drawn into an underbonnet engine intake can still be as high in temp as 60 degrees! And since - as a rule of thumb - engine power drops by 1 per cent for every 4 degrees C that the intake air temp rises, this isn't good..... (Incidentally, that's why AutoSpeed doesn't have much of a liking for exposed underbonnet filters installed without heat shields....).
Quote:
In all cars, the lower the intake air temp, the better. In a naturally aspirated car with efficient cold air induction, when the car is moving the intake air temp should be less than 10 degrees C above the temp of the day. The best we've ever seen is 5 degrees above ambient, and many cars - even after cold air intake modification - still have an intake air temp about 15 degrees C higher than the day temp. In forced aspirated cars, the highest temp that you want to see - depending on how much boost you're running, of course - is about 30 degrees C above the day temp.
Quote:
Another common occurrence is heat soak. Drive a car on a hot day until it is up to operating temp and then park it. Hop back in after half an hour or so and it's not uncommon to see intake temps of 70 or 80 degrees C for the first minute, remaining elevated for some kilometres of driving. Forced induction cars with water/air intercooling systems will stay high in intake air temp for 10 or 15 minutes, as all that thermal mass of the water needs to be cooled.
Theres so much more information available. Haven't touched the car forums yet
summary
From various articles and studies inclusive but not exclusive to the above sources:
6-10 degrees increase = 1% drop in power.
People will and can legitimately argue that 1% = jack all.
Whilst this is somewhat true for street application, it is not true for race application. And keep in mind that 4 degrees in ambient temp. was a 30 second idle difference in the study above. How much the temp will go up after that I wasn't able to find a measure, but with common sense you can imagine that it would definately go higher if 4 degrees higher was in the 2nd 30 second period.
Also we on the DC5 normally aspirated 4 cyl 2.0L platform don't have big numbers to begin with, and a 10KW atw difference can cost you cams and an ecu ($5000+?) so it makes sense to care about small differences
the concept of heatsoak exists
First you need to understand and agree that:
- cool air ie lower intake tempreture is beneficial
- this is because in cool air any given volume of it is more dense and contains more oxygen than any given volume of warm air
- and the concept of engine combustion, if you cannot understand this you will not understand heatsoak
ENGINE COMBUSTION:
http://users.telenet.be/cleanteam/in...n/image997.gif
This process is obviously how power is produced. This process is more efficient with more oxygen per volume of air, as in step 1 the mixture (AIR/FUEL) is injected into the combustion chamber and this ratio is a set A/F ratio controlled by the ECU...Whatever the air requirement of this is, it needs it, and the air intake will need to draw in that amount of oxygen to satisfy efficient combustion as set by the specific A/F.Quote:
1. Intake
* Combustible mixtures are emplaced in the combustion chamber
2. Compression
* The mixtures are placed under pressure
3. Power
* The mixture is burnt, almost invariably a deflagration, although a few systems involve detonation. The hot mixture is expanded, pressing on and moving parts of the engine and performing useful work.
4. Exhaust
* The cooled combustion products are exhausted into the atmosphere
Cold air will satisfy this requirement as it will need less volume of air to draw in any given amount of oxygen as cold air is more dense with oxygen compared to hot/warm air.
So..
Heatsoak: inefficiencies in combustion given by warm air as higher volumes of warm air are needed to draw certain amounts of oxygen. As tempretures get higher and higher more volume of air is needed, if the intake can not provide to scale the increases in requirement of air volume than power is lost.
This is less of a problem as a DD but still evident, and tempretures will increase with time and workload
SRI on a DC5 is more subject to hotter air than a CAI as a SRI is right next to the headers, where combustion products in step 3 of the above process have detonated and are ejected through the headers as exhaust fumes and exit the engine block. This is the hottest part of the engine bay so logic says the air around the header is also quite hot and subject to increases in tempreture as more exhaust fumes exit through the header as workloads and time increase.
Since tempretures around the header is known to be high and it can be shown that intake tempretures of a pod next to them reflect this, as well as the fact that warm air makes combustion inefficient which can lead to a loss of power.
Heatsoak exists for the DC5
here's your 'legit answer'
now of course. This will affect differing builds in differing ways and differing degrees. But there is no doubt it exists.
And if you can avoid it by simply choosing a different intake style, why not? especially when it is supplemented with better gains anyway
**** yeah this butter popcorn is ****ing sweet :D
Ok.. I can safely say I'm not going to be buying my injen sri anymore lol.. plenty of valid reasoning.. might just stop be a lazy c**t and design my own box coz i like the idea of the pod being more conveniently placed.. anyone got pics of a decent custom dc5 intake? i'd love to see it
if your doign that, might as well do that Hodnata gutted airbox mod.
yeah i'm thinking about possibility of placing a k&n pod inside the gutted out stock box and rigging up cold air flow.. im searching around but can't find anyone else whos done it
Holy s*** that was one hell of a comeback from Lowiez.... lol. It was a very interesting read ^_^
EVLGTR - u got owned!
Big time.. LOL... Popcorn with butter tastes good i must say ;D
good on you mike :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by kingjumbo
Quote:
Originally Posted by type_AHH
Just trying my best to make sure whoevers reading gets the right information :)Quote:
Originally Posted by r3ckless
If this plays out like any other thread the guy has argued invalid reasoning on, no doubt there will be some sort of far fetched tangent of a response lol
Lowiez 1 - 0 EVLGTR
Yeah, thankyou Lowiez for the good description, you shouldnt have to bash your head against a wall any longer.
Not really any point now but i'll add that from my own experience, in a daily driven heavy traffic situation, I think think that an SRI is at its worst. It was in traffic that I saw the highest temps on my IAT gauge (up to 65degrees as I have said in that other thread). At least on a track/highway when you are moving rapidly you are getting some cooler air through the DC5 wheel arch hole into the engine bay to cool the SRI down somewhat (measured on the temp gauge also). Stock airbox is not better tho, its like an oven, heats up alot and likes to stay that way and there is less of the aformentioned cooling effect at speed.
IMO to avoid HEATSOAK which DOES EXIST GruppeM= CAI>SRI>Stock airbox
@Lowiez ROFL...Wow! some essay you wrote their. FIGJAM has pHD in intake induction now? ( i want to congratulate all you brown-nosing folks for your hero that is LOWIEZ.)
You're able to find your valid answer on a Miata?....LMAO...have a look at the positioning of the header and pod filter jackass and try compare that positioning to a DC5. Then it'll be a different answer.
Oh wait didnt i say to get an answer for an SRI pod on Street driven DC5?....not a Miata buddy, the engine bay configuration is clearly different. LOL!. Dumbass thinks he can get away with it.
....oh and LOL @ 2hp differences between a CAI and an SRI in that photo. Would that make lap times around shopping centre and home a bit quicker?.
oh and Lowiez.....Whats with all the private personal hate messages you're sending me in the first place in my inbox??...hahahahah... sorry to have insulted your tree of knowledge but seems to me you're choking.
If that is apart of your response, you neither should be in a debate about a mechanical concept, and you should just grow the hell up.Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
You asked for a proper answer, you got one
Q:
A: No, you did notQuote:
Oh wait didnt i say to get an answer for an SRI pod on Street driven DC5?
Quote:
@Lowiez as expected from a FIGJAM, you wouldnt have a single answer to your HEATSOAK theory.
nuff said.Quote:
@Lowiez Do you have any evidence that HEATSOAK robs a a significant load of kW while street-driving?, Give me a legit answer to that.
In case you didnt know what a pod and a header looks like which wouldnt suprise me, ive labelled it for youQuote:
You're able to find your valid answer on a Miata?....LMAO...have a look at the positioning of the header and pod filter jackass and try compare that positioning to a DC5. Then it'll be a different answer.
http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/o...wiez/miata.jpg
Very similar in both pictures, pods are in a close proximity to the header. Do you think hot air travels for only 2cm or so then instantly transforms into cool/normal air? fool.Quote:
That study is very relavant. The positioning of the pods are both subject to heat from exhaust fumes travelling in the header.
Miata = 1.8 4CYL
K20 = 2.0L 4 CYL
Similar capacity too, so exhaust fumes at lower revs (which is what the study is focused on) will be similar due to engines of close capacity with similarity sized combustion chambers pumping out similiar levels of exhaust fumes when working. Dont believe me? research engine combustion.
Note: just saying the engine blocks are different is not relavant to what i just said, ill save you the time writing that tell you now thats not a valid arguement[, cause I bet thats the first thing that came to your head
so..um...bud,
Wrong again
despute that, and contradict yourself idiot:
......Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
You clearly didn't understand what was written in the article or my summary. either that or you thought you could provide a response to it that would make sense without reading it.Quote:
....oh and LOL @ 2hp differences between a CAI and an SRI in that photo. Would that make lap times around shopping centre and home a bit quicker?.
- The 2hp is a 2% loss in power from 30 seconds of the engine ignition being turned on
- further loss is 1% every 4-10 degree increase
- 4 degree increase intervals can be achieved from normal driving every 30 seconds
This is the last time I will try and get you to understand something. You are clearly so thick and stubborn you have to result to personal insult to think in your head that you're right.
If you're going to argue a certain point, back it up. All you're doing is guessing and making things up so you think you know anything and everything
ps. umm personal hate messages? not sure why you would tell people about you threatening my car over PMs but whatever LOL
and -1 rep
Lowiez 2 - 0 EVLGTR
@Lowiez you're posts are becoming more irrelevant to this original thread LOL.... Do you even have a CAI in your Type-S??...does anyone here using a CAI in their DC5, that id like to see a picture and results...RESULTS..not some theory as what Lowiez is all about. Jackass. Lets take this out to a new thread shall we :)
You need an eye check with your own image post mate coz from what i see the DC5 header isnt NEXT to the Pod Filter
@SpoonS why are you being such a brown-noser? Hahahah what does 2-0 mean?.... didnt you say you were using an SRI for 3 yrs and had no problems with it?. Fool.
because he makes more sense then you do.Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
I don't see why your even arguing. Yes i did use a SRI for 3 years, but i was in WA where it is legal, and in NSW it is illegal to have an open pod, so i switched to a CAI. If you don't believe me and want a picture of it, here you go :-
http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/a...kla/Car/12.jpg
Do you yourself own a DC5? If you don't then you yourself are basing everything on a theory. So you can, but everyone else can't?
You asked Lowiez for an "answer to this theory" and he gave it to you, and because he did, now your demanding something else? Why don't you show your results instead of demanding it from everyone else?
The OP was asking advise about a SRI, and we gave it to him.
PS your sig is very funny. Doubt your any good behind the wheel though.
@Lowiez "Miata and DC5 are very similar engine" <----------- Geez, this kid sounds delusional by the hour. LOL!!!!....
Since we've completely gone off the topic, i'll just wing it by asking you a question how you've come to this statement comparing a 1.8L Miata engine to a 2.0 K20A ??....care to tell every specs that are similar. You're the FOOL doing all these research and i suggest you start doing another LOL!!!....
You're a very strange character LOWIEZ, its funny how i just write simple comments here and you reply with all the pointless B.S. and expand everything to the point where you could relate the base topic "SRI where to pick one up"....into "Miata engine similarity of K20A" ROFL!!!!!....
I love your posts though, so much information seems like you're dedicating yourself and going all out psycho on wikipedia's, copy & pasting, extracting infos at carsguide.com.au etc.... Hahahahahah!!!!....your bum chum SpoonS right though, it is 2 - 0 for Lowiez i must say...tsk tsk tsk. Cant beat arguing a person out of a straight jacket which Lowiez reminds me that old bloke from "Ken Bruce's gone mad commercial"
@SpoonS I think you're funny as well by believing even these insignificant signatures i write, Its from a movie quote i got a long time ago, cant remember though. I like yours as well "Wakefield 1:09.91" <-----is that how long it takes to satisfy yourself? ROFL... Nice pic by the way, did you happen to stop by Google images and pick one up?? Can you take more of it, like you standing in front with your name and rego so i can REALLY believe what i see?, Jackass...
PS. it is quiet funny but why do i bother with a pawn like you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
All you do is take things out of context and make things up in a hope people will think you arent a complete idiot. PLEASE outline below where I said the are a very similar engine, you even put it in quotations so i expect you to find a identical line.
Looks like you're the one that's delusional
You:Quote:
Very similar in both pictures, pods are in a close proximity to the header. Do you think hot air travels for only 2cm or so then instantly transforms into cool/normal air? fool.
That study is very relavant. The positioning of the pods are both subject to heat from exhaust fumes travelling in the header.
Miata = 1.8 4CYL
K20 = 2.0L 4 CYL
Similar capacity too, so exhaust fumes at lower revs (which is what the study is focused on) will be similar due to engines of close capacity with similarity sized combustion chambers pumping out similiar levels of exhaust fumes when working. Dont believe me? research engine combustion.
Note: just saying the engine blocks are different is not relavant to what i just said, ill save you the time writing that tell you now thats not a valid arguement[, cause I bet thats the first thing that came to your head
read properly or don't reply, fool.Quote:
Since we've completely gone off the topic, i'll just wing it by asking you a question how you've come to this statement comparing a 1.8L Miata engine to a 2.0 K20A ??....care to tell every specs that are similar. You're the FOOL doing all these research and i suggest you start doing another LOL!!!....
I break your useless comments up because i respond to everything you say directly, instead of making up quotes and BS like yourselfQuote:
You're a very strange character LOWIEZ, its funny how i just write simple comments here and you reply with all the pointless B.S. and expand everything to the point where you could relate the base topic "SRI where to pick one up"....into "Miata engine similarity of K20A" ROFL!!!!!....
Carsguide...wiki...LOL. Not sure where you get your sources of information, but ill say it again read properly idiot there's no reference to wikipedia thereQuote:
I love your posts though, so much information seems like you're dedicating yourself and going all out psycho on wikipedia's, copy & pasting, extracting infos at carsguide.com.au etc.... Hahahahahah!!!!....your bum chum SpoonS right though, it is 2 - 0 for Lowiez i must say...tsk tsk tsk. Cant beat arguing a person out of a straight jacket which Lowiez reminds me that old bloke from "Ken Bruce's gone mad commercial"
You're right, everything you say you should be classed as insignificant.Quote:
@SpoonS I think you're funny as well by believing even these insignificant signatures i write, Its from a movie quote i got a long time ago, cant remember though. I like yours as well "Wakefield 1:09.91" <-----is that how long it takes to satisfy yourself? ROFL... PS. it is quiet funny but why do i bother with a pawn like you.
Your posts make no sense, are useless, are not properly backed by actual fact/knowledge, and all you do is fabricate information and try to throw in some personal stabs while you are at it.
GTFO!! lol
http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/o...owiez/26-6.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
Yep. I do.
I/E/H
Stock DC5R is ~100-105kw atw. Cause I know you wouldn't of known that
So yep...there is a definate gain. You must be really desperate mate if you are going into arguing about whether or a CAI has gains LOL
Mine arent becomming irrelavant, but yours definately are. Yours dont contain any information at all, mine do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
idiotQuote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
^
Thought so
hahahah.
I don't think he even knows what he is typing.
I've personally owned a DC5R with both SRI, CAI and enclosed airbox.
And the SRI has proven to be the worse with jerky idle and overall engine performance not to mention drop in fuel economy.
go back to boostcruising evlgtr.
WJL-10W.....dont tell me you're name is Wil, Willow. *about to burst out laughing*, nevermind. Its getting funnier by the day i must say LOL!!, 126.3kw Holy crap thats a breakthrough editing skills you have, care to post more pics? how do i know its just I/H/E? LOL!!!, more pics PLEASE
You still dont get it do you? pictures will do no justice. Jackass.
@reckless: Thought i ignored you a while back?
@Tai: You've personally owned a DC5R...oh and it says DC2R as it say in your profile?, quit your BS man. Well Ive personally owned a Gallardo too!!!! LOL....."And the SRI has proven to be the worse with jerky idle" <-----thats coz you dont know how to drive and you know what you are. AaaaHahahaha...
You do know how much a stock dc5r/s makes atw yes? and whenyou throw in i/h/e .. and do the proper invetigation, you'll stop laughing.Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
"and whenyou throw in i/h/e .. and do the proper invetigation," <------oh i thought you were going to write ...add a bit more fully sick aftermarket junk to go a bit fasterQuote:
Originally Posted by r3ckless
How much a stock DC5 atw?.....pfft, i dont even care, it wouldnt be as much as my 32, Aaahahahahah! Jackass.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
You are seriously such an idiot...think before you write.Quote:
Do you even have a CAI in your Type-S??...does anyone here using a CAI in their DC5, that id like to see a picture and results...RESULTS..not some theory as what Lowiez is all about. Jackass. Lets take this out to a new thread shall we :)
I'm also going to mention that you ask for explanantions, numbers, evidence and photos and you've been given all of that.
You yourself haven't produced a single thing except for crappy insults
Then GTFO and stop arguing about it if you don't care.Quote:
Originally Posted by EVLGTR
Not one thing you ever say makes sense
*waits for your stupid irrelavant comeback which will contain no actual information, just some new spin of BS and a attempt at a insult*
Prove me wrong..
Hmmm, you seem to not believe anything that is shown to you. Do you want proof of ownership papers along with my car? I do own and drive a DC5, and i doubt you do.
Your quite sad tbh. Out of my whole post, you didn't choose to reply to the relevant questions, so i'll ask them again. Do you drive a DC5? Are you basing your theories on actual facts or just pulling them out of your arse?
Nuff boys. OP hope you got the answers your looking for. CLOSED.