[CL9]&[CU2] You got Automatic transmission? *you'll WANT to read this*

[Fredoops]

Didn't need one.

Two hoses goes into the radiator I just wired it off one. The cooler I got doesn't have a flow direction so it didn't matter whether you add it to the in or return line.

[Haanda]

O.K. I'll see if. I can find out which of the 2 hoses is supply and return, so that the fluid goes from the radiator to the external cooler and then returns to the transmission.

[Martin77]

Hi there,

I am new at this forum as I bought an 05 Accord Euro about a month ago.
I found this forum very helpful as now I know that the service schedule for the AT of 120k km is not sufficient.
I obtained from this forum that a 3X3 change is what I need at reduced interval (not 120k km). It is necessary but realised that this is going to be expensive and time consuming for me. I am aware that a complete flush is not recommended by Honda as it might introduce air to the system.

May I get an opinion from you guys about a conservative flush method and see if this is ok. With this I would reduce the oil used and time spent changing the oil. This uses 2 people to do it.
Step:
1. Change the oil as normal (drop 3L and fill 3L via dip stick tube)
2. Undo hose to the radiator (passenger side) and position on a graduated oil pan (volume indicator)
3. The second person start the car (in park or cycling the transmission)
4. Oil will come out of the radiator hose and in about 5-10 seconds it will reach 2.5 L
5. Ask driver to stop the car
6. Reconnect hose and fill the dipstick tube until full (theoretically 2.5 L)
7. Run engine for a few minutes, check level and top up if necessary

This method is similar to this you tube video but done more conservatively so that air does not get into the system by removing only 2.5L. If the transmission contained 6.2 L, this method technically remove 5.5/6.2=85%.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQsVuUOK6Cg

What are your thoughts?

Edit: the website is this below, please ignore the top link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZAmcEf9LrY

[Haanda]

Remember that air gets in every time the transmission dip stick is checked and it is through the dipstick tube that air will be vented, so not necessary to do the hose to radiator disconnection bit. If it was, then the factory would also make that the method and probably have some sort of an inbuilt drain system designed into it.
(Undoing a hose clamp and then carefully draining out a measured amount of oil is NOT the way Japanese engineers would approach such a task. )
3 x 3 will see a good % of the oil changed and doing the radiator connection hose bit, is effectively doing a 4 x 4. (The amount of oil dropped from the trans each "dump" is closer to 2.8 litres.)
The 3 x 3 drop is how a Honda Dealer would do it anyway. All the thread recommends is doing it a bit more often than Honda state in the manual. ( No need to try and re invent the wheel )

[Fredoops]

Hi there,
I obtained from this forum that a 3X3 change is what I need at reduced interval (not 120k km). It is necessary but realised that this is going to be expensive and time consuming for me. I am aware that a complete flush is not recommended by Honda as it might introduce air to the system.

3x3 is what you do when you haven't replaced the oil in a long time (ie: those who followed the service book)

if you do changes very regularly then a 1x1 every service (or 2nd service if you don't do a lot of kay's) would be sufficient imo, so after your initial 3x3 + filter change, just do a 1x1 (simple drain/fill) every service (or 2nd service) or something would be sufficient.

Theres not really any need to do a 3x3 every 2nd service, thats too expansive, also you really dont need to use honda OEM fluid, most good quality full synthetic ATF are ATF-Z1 compatible now days, so thats like an instant 50% saving.

Step:
1. Change the oil as normal (drop 3L and fill 3L via dip stick tube)
2. Undo hose to the radiator (passenger side) and position on a graduated oil pan (volume indicator)
3. The second person start the car (in park or cycling the transmission)
4. Oil will come out of the radiator hose and in about 5-10 seconds it will reach 2.5 L
5. Ask driver to stop the car
6. Reconnect hose and fill the dipstick tube until full (theoretically 2.5 L)
7. Run engine for a few minutes, check level and top up if necessary
...
...
What are your thoughts?

If you had to do this method would it not be better to fill the dipstick while it drains? that would reduce/prevent air from getting in.

The 3 x 3 drop is how a Honda Dealer would do it anyway. All the thread recommends is doing it a bit more often than Honda state in the manual. ( No need to try and re invent the wheel )

Actually honda dealers only do a 1x1 @120k km, that was my experience anyway, they only do 3x3 when you complain about transmission problems.

[Martin77]

Thanks for the feedback Fred and Handa. Maybe you are right. There is no need to reinvent the wheel.

I just wanted to think a way to make the ATF change more effectively (and also safely) as it is expensive and a hassle removing the plastic cover to do the ATF. Maybe it can be stretched to 40-50k using this technique.

I bought the car a month ago at 130k km and the ATF has not been changed. Its lucky that the transmission is still good (smooth) as the previous owner uses the car mainly highway driving and uses it gently (I dont think he ever engaged the vtec). I replaced the oil with redline D4 oil as redline was the oil I used on my previous car and it was good. I bought it for approx $85 per gallon (3.7 L), its expensive.
To me doing the flush is a little more risky but I am sure it is more effective than conducting multiple drain and refill as the drain and refill method mixes the old and new oil before the consecutive changes. The number 2.5 L I used is a number I used to ensure that no (significant) air get into the system (we have 3L inside the pan). This can be reduced to 2L being more conservative. Fred the reason for not filling the dipstick as the system is flushed is done so that full attention (reduce the risk) can be given to the volume of oil that has been removed to the drain pan and alert the driver to stop the engine.

Fred, can you please tell me if you notice some difference between Redline D4 and Valvoline maxlife ATF fluid?

[Fredoops]

Fred, can you please tell me if you notice some difference between Redline D4 and Valvoline maxlife ATF fluid?

I've noticed no difference between the two, then again I added an external ATF cooler half way thru my Redline D4 drain cycle, both stayed very clean and very smooth throughout it's 1 year life.

Not that matters all that much, it seems that Maxlife had been discontinued in oz, cant find them in repco or supercheap, Autobarn sometimes have them but most of the time i cant see it on the shelf.

And with the current aussie dollar rate i cant justify the the cost of the Redline D4 anymore either.

So now I have 4 bottles of Nulon Multi-vehicle synthetic atf sitting in the garage, they'll be the next one for me to try.

[AndrewRox22]

So now I have 4 bottles of Nulon Multi-vehicle synthetic atf sitting in the garage, they'll be the next one for me to try.

I've used it, noticed nothing wrong or special with it- it costs a bit more than the penrite version

I found simply changing the inline filter has extended the smoothness as well

[Martin77]

Thank you Fred.
You mentioned you installed an atf cooler on your car and I am assuming this cooler is mounted in front of the A/C evaporator.
I have heard that the Euro A/C (similar to crv) often can give us grief from the heat it generated. This document/link below mentioned an increased A/C cycle due to evaporator under- sizing. Would an ATF cooler mounted in front of it makes it worse?
Should we change the A/C clutch as a preventative maintenance?
http://hondakarma.com/threads/cr-v-a...81/live?page=1

[Fredoops]

I've used it, noticed nothing wrong or special with it- it costs a bit more than the penrite version

Yes I've noticed that.

Gotta say the penrite full syn atf pricing is really odd. At 40 bucks retail for 4 litre when the semi synthetic penrite atf cost upwards 35 bucks.

While the Valvoline Maxlife and Nulon Full Syn Atf are around 55.

Both cheaper than honda oem at 70 a bottle tho.

Thank you Fred.
You mentioned you installed an atf cooler on your car and I am assuming this cooler is mounted in front of the A/C evaporator.
I have heard that the Euro A/C (similar to crv) often can give us grief from the heat it generated. This document/link below mentioned an increased A/C cycle due to evaporator under- sizing. Would an ATF cooler mounted in front of it makes it worse?
Should we change the A/C clutch as a preventative maintenance?
http://hondakarma.com/threads/cr-v-a...81/live?page=1

Yes it's mounted in front of the ac condenser.

The one I added is not big. Only the size of an ipad. Can't imagine it doing that much.

Regarding changing ac clutch. That's no small job.

I cant comment on aircon performance I don't run R134a in my ac system anymore. I use hydrocarbon refrigerant instead which is twice as efficient there abouts so my ac system runs on less pressure and stress.

[AndrewRox22]

Yes I've noticed that.

Gotta say the penrite full syn atf pricing is really odd. At 40 bucks retail for 4 litre when the semi synthetic penrite atf cost upwards 35 bucks.
.

what are you seeing as odd? the price itself or the price difference?

[Fredoops]

The price difference (or the lack thereof)