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  1. #97
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Japan
    Car:
    EP3 CTR
    Quote Originally Posted by egSi View Post
    dude, not sure if u know but the N+ was designed specifically to keep the arms at closer to stock angles.

    no need to really go and get anything extra until at least u have fitted them and am happy with the height.

    I have N+ moderately lowered and the arms are almost level

    other coilovers dont account for this do affect the arm angle.

    N+ = the shit
    When you say N+ do you mean the Race spec coils?
    AKA: The Spaniard! +1 Rep me if you find my posts useful.

  2. #98
    TRAVDM Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    BNE, Q
    Car:
    Lots of Hondas
    no i mean N+ spec but Race Spec Damber ALSO has the lower mount for the tie rod ends
    oh wrd!

  3. #99
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Japan
    Car:
    EP3 CTR
    Quote Originally Posted by egSi View Post
    no i mean N+ spec but Race Spec Damber ALSO has the lower mount for the tie rod ends
    Ah this is something I did not know, although as I am having all this done I feel better doing it right first time. I actually have already ordered a custom steering bracket for this to avoid any of these issues regardless.
    AKA: The Spaniard! +1 Rep me if you find my posts useful.

  4. #100
    TRAVDM Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    BNE, Q
    Car:
    Lots of Hondas
    Quote Originally Posted by JDM EP3 View Post
    Ah this is something I did not know, although as I am having all this done I feel better doing it right first time. I actually have already ordered a custom steering bracket for this to avoid any of these issues regardless.
    lol sell it man, unless ur running nut scraper spec low, you wont need it.
    oh wrd!

  5. #101
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Japan
    Car:
    EP3 CTR
    Quote Originally Posted by egSi View Post
    lol sell it man, unless ur running nut scraper spec low, you wont need it.
    lol I like low but not that low. I was thinking that if I dont need it I will of course sell it. I'll see how the angles are and go from there.
    I actually am frothing to get the coils in but I am still waiting on the tie rods to arrive along with bushings and camber arms before I can go ahead, hopefully done within the next week or two.
    AKA: The Spaniard! +1 Rep me if you find my posts useful.

  6. #102
    TRAVDM Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    BNE, Q
    Car:
    Lots of Hondas
    sick man
    oh wrd!

  7. #103
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Japan
    Car:
    EP3 CTR
    Got some more parts in today and yesterday.

    Whiteline rear swaybar


    Custom steering bracket.

    Wether that will be used or not is yet to be determined

    J's racing spl tie rods.


    Also got those replica Mugen pedals fitted on Monday. The grip on the pedal face is awesome, quite happy with them @$30. Issue was that without putting some sort of padding in behind the pedal it can jiggle a little. Fixed that with a bit of foam behind it and its is quite snug and doesnt move at all.

    AKA: The Spaniard! +1 Rep me if you find my posts useful.

  8. #104
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    '03 JDM EP3
    Quote Originally Posted by egSi View Post
    I have N+ moderately lowered and the arms are almost level
    Hmm.. correct me if I'm wrong, but for minimal/zero bump steer, you want the tie rod perpendicular to the strut angle.

    I also run the BC N+ coil overs and use to run them with inverted tie rod ends because I wanted them as "flat" as possible. With the inverted ends they were flat, really flat. However bump steer was terrible. You can see the toe change as you jack up the car - the wheels start toeing out.

    Keeping with the same height, I now run them with OEM tie rod ends. As the N+ coil overs do not have adjustable camber tops, the strut angle remains static. The tie rod is pretty much perpendicular to the strut angle. There is no noticeable bump steer and the toe remains pretty static when jacking up the car.

  9. #105
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Cabramatta
    Car:
    EP3R
    Hey the whiteline sway bar is thicker then the oem one isnt it?

  10. #106
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeyy168 View Post
    Hey the whiteline sway bar is thicker then the oem one isnt it?
    Yep, 24mm

    Worthwhile upgrade if you prefer less understeer/more oversteer.

  11. #107
    almost did a hectic spin out the other day
    thought it was because racecar
    turned out there was a screwdirver tip in my rear wheel

  12. #108
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Japan
    Car:
    EP3 CTR
    Some new parts arrived yesterday and today!

    GruppeM Intake


    Some Tegiwa parts


    Energy suspension bushing kit, thanks to RPS13 for info on where to purchase!


    From left to right, Front sway bar bushing, Rear swaybar bushing (only 15mm???) and the difference between that and the whiteline swaybar bushing.

    The Energy stuff is really firm compared to the whiteline bushing, I just wish the energy bushings included one big enough for the whiteline swaybaras the energy rear is way too small to fit.

    Also got my hardrace rear camber arms the other day. Just waiting on Buddyclub to swap over my front strut bottoms as they came with the paint all flaking off and surface rust WTF!!!. Pretty dissapointed that they let it leave like that.
    Last edited by JDM EP3; 20-06-2012 at 10:57 PM.
    AKA: The Spaniard! +1 Rep me if you find my posts useful.

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