no i mean N+ spec but Race Spec Damber ALSO has the lower mount for the tie rod ends
Ah this is something I did not know, although as I am having all this done I feel better doing it right first time. I actually have already ordered a custom steering bracket for this to avoid any of these issues regardless.
AKA: The Spaniard! +1 Rep me if you find my posts useful.
Ah this is something I did not know, although as I am having all this done I feel better doing it right first time. I actually have already ordered a custom steering bracket for this to avoid any of these issues regardless.
lol sell it man, unless ur running nut scraper spec low, you wont need it.
lol sell it man, unless ur running nut scraper spec low, you wont need it.
lol I like low but not that low. I was thinking that if I dont need it I will of course sell it. I'll see how the angles are and go from there.
I actually am frothing to get the coils in but I am still waiting on the tie rods to arrive along with bushings and camber arms before I can go ahead, hopefully done within the next week or two.
AKA: The Spaniard! +1 Rep me if you find my posts useful.
Wether that will be used or not is yet to be determined
J's racing spl tie rods.
Also got those replica Mugen pedals fitted on Monday. The grip on the pedal face is awesome, quite happy with them @$30. Issue was that without putting some sort of padding in behind the pedal it can jiggle a little. Fixed that with a bit of foam behind it and its is quite snug and doesnt move at all.
AKA: The Spaniard! +1 Rep me if you find my posts useful.
I have N+ moderately lowered and the arms are almost level
Hmm.. correct me if I'm wrong, but for minimal/zero bump steer, you want the tie rod perpendicular to the strut angle.
I also run the BC N+ coil overs and use to run them with inverted tie rod ends because I wanted them as "flat" as possible. With the inverted ends they were flat, really flat. However bump steer was terrible. You can see the toe change as you jack up the car - the wheels start toeing out.
Keeping with the same height, I now run them with OEM tie rod ends. As the N+ coil overs do not have adjustable camber tops, the strut angle remains static. The tie rod is pretty much perpendicular to the strut angle. There is no noticeable bump steer and the toe remains pretty static when jacking up the car.
Energy suspension bushing kit, thanks to RPS13 for info on where to purchase!
From left to right, Front sway bar bushing, Rear swaybar bushing (only 15mm???) and the difference between that and the whiteline swaybar bushing.
The Energy stuff is really firm compared to the whiteline bushing, I just wish the energy bushings included one big enough for the whiteline swaybaras the energy rear is way too small to fit.
Also got my hardrace rear camber arms the other day. Just waiting on Buddyclub to swap over my front strut bottoms as they came with the paint all flaking off and surface rust WTF!!!. Pretty dissapointed that they let it leave like that.
Last edited by JDM EP3; 20-06-2012 at 10:57 PM.
AKA: The Spaniard! +1 Rep me if you find my posts useful.
Bookmarks