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Thread: main relay

  1. #1
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    main relay

    My car stalled tonight, whilst driving/cruising at about 70km/h. I pulled over, and made a call for help. I was advised as it may have been my main relay.

    I let the car cool down for a bit and the car restarted, but quickly stalled. I tried turning it over a few times and it would not start. I had to resort to stopping/stalling, sitting and waiting, and then trying to drive the car, and again, and again, and well, you get my point.

    I got home finally, and quickly looked up a couple of things. I came across this...

    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31796

    and followed it. I opened the relay and found that all soldered contacts were fine, but i decided to solder extra solder into each contact just in case.

    Once the relay was installed again, the car start fine.

    My question is whether that really does fix the problem - seeing as all my contacts were fine. Could it be something else? Does the relay simply *overheat* and shut itself off?

    Is it a symptom of a dying relay when it over heats? Perhaps calling out for a new one.

    Quote Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
    so your car starts fine, but after some driving it will stall and wont restart, or restart then stall again, this can be symptoms of the Main PGMFI Relay at fault, as well as other things like coil, ICM, but since the main relay is so easy to fix, why not start there.

    A good sign of the relay at fault is you might not hear the fuel pump prime for 5 seconds when you 1st turn on the IGN, ( it can still prime if the relay is faulty )
    also low or no fuel pressure
    That basically described what happened, so assuming it IS the relay, is it as simple as buying a new relay? or will my novice soldering attempts have fixed the problem?

    Thanks
    when do we hit vtec?

  2. #2
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    it's possible for the contact to look fine, but actually have pulled up a bit from the board... when it warms up, stuff expands at different rates, causing what is a not noticable/barely noticable seperation to get much bigger.

    I had the same issue on my crx, resoldered it although everything looked ok, popped it back, and haven't had an issue since.

  3. #3
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    What causes a main relay to overheat? driving conditions? weather? how hard you drive your car?
    when do we hit vtec?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by fried
    What causes a main relay to overheat? driving conditions? weather? how hard you drive your car?
    the main relay is a notorious problem with these cars. They get old, it cracks, and as the car gets warm(problems usually pop up when it's warm out/someone has the heat on), it expans causing an issue with the connection.

  5. #5
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    Oh thanks for your help saxman.

    I'm wondering if "the length of time/number or turn overs before the engine actually starts" is a sign of a wearing relay/dying relay.

    Also i noticed a significant power loss when I restarted the car after first stalling.

    All honda parts departments in sydney are closed for the weekend. So i have to wait till monday morning to buy a new one. I'm worried if I drive and let the car rev out, it'll just stall again.
    when do we hit vtec?

  6. #6
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    if you resoldered the connections, even if it didn't look like it did anything, I would be willing to bet you're fine.

  7. #7
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    Solder has a low boiling point and just the heating up the main relay is enough to loosen a poorly soldered joint.
    Got a question? Check out the FAQ - http://www.ozhonda.com/go/faq

  8. #8
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    thanks. lets hope for the best then.

    fyi - i called up peter at hanny, and he said "well that's exactly what we would have done, pulled it open, and soldered it, and we've never had any problems from there".
    when do we hit vtec?

  9. #9
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    Thought I'd also mention that poor connections on your main relay can also cause hesitation. I had this problem once and afer resoldering the joints it went away.
    Got a question? Check out the FAQ - http://www.ozhonda.com/go/faq

  10. #10
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    You could resolder it using solder with a higher melting point such as stuff with less lead and more tin - but you need a decent soldering iron, not those cheap $20 things. U can pick some up at Jaycar.

  11. #11
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    well... took the car out tonight.drove it harmlessly for about 15km... then gave it a hit to about 6700rpm, and it jumped as if it hesistated to stall and then caught itself. another 5kms later, it stalled. so i stopped for a while, let it *cool down* and restarted the car, and drove home, for yet another night ending prematurely due to this problem.

    i felt the relay after i stalled... and the plastic cover was not even the slight bit warm.

    i wonder if buying a new one will just waste me $100 and not be the cause of the issue?
    when do we hit vtec?

  12. #12
    have u properly rebuilt the dizzy Eric ? as others have suggested i think , it could be a igniter module issue or dizzy cap / rotor issue - the latter is cheap and might fix the problem. Or spark plug leads are iffy and need replacement. (thats the hesitation , no why its stalling...that is the main relay pretty much !)

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