Coil and ICM Input Test

[omgzilla]

Just a note I thought I'd add:

Not sure if its the same on other motors, but for the B16A2 you have to get the rotor button in position 1 in order to be able to remove the rotor button screw, to take off the rotor.

Just a heads up as I nearly got tricked into trying to pry the thing off lol

Thanks heaps for this tutorial! The coil resistance specs helped me come to a conclusion of condemning my ign coil... $150 later and she's running again

Cheers

[teh_mechanic]

this is exactly the kind of thread i was looking for.
my b16 intermittently misfires above 7000rpm and the tacho needle goes crazy.
I assumed it was ignition related now Im leaning towards a faulty ICM,however I will do these tests on it and the coil tommorro,hopefully they read to be faulty,meaning ive found the problem and i can sleep again lol.

Will let this thread know of the outcome if I replace one of the two
+1rep for you
......

did the test,coil showed 17.5kohms,nothing too bad,but anyway,i changed the coil with 1 i had lying around from a crv b20 dizzy,and my misfire is now gone.so it was the coil causing my problem

[Klayemore]

Good Writeup.

I'm having problems starting my B20. Cranks fine, but sometimes it just will not fire. It's a pain because sometimes it will, sometimes it won't. Could this potentially be the source of my problem? I also have an external coil setup.

Cheers,
Klaye

[ECU-MAN]

sounds like the main PGMFI relay.

when she wont fire how long does it take to get it running ?

[Edgeauto]

As ECU-MAN said check your main relay. Normally if you ignition components fail they die for ever, the only exception is the coil may play up a little then die but normally they also just die.

[Klayemore]

Thanks for the replies.

I only replaced the main relay about a year or so ago (second hand) because it was giving me issues. I thought it was a sign that the main relay was gone if the starter motor won't go? The starter motor always cranks fine, but it just does not fire. You would know more than me though so correct me if I'm wrong.

ECU-MAN: Sometimes I will start no dramas at all, sometimes it may take quite a few cranks to get it started, sometimes it will just crank but not fire at all. It's very annoying but I don't want to take it to a mechanic. Just need to find the time to check it over myself.

I was thinking either ignition or fuel filter, but if you think it could be the relay then let me know.

[ECU-MAN]

as above, sometimes an ICM when hot can take 30 min to start again, but it does sound like the main relay. try the resolder DIY on here.

[B147ch]

LOL loved that clip!
20K RPM VTEC GOGOGOGOGOOOO!! HAHAHA

i think my coil has shit itself, will try this with a multimeter
not throwing spark, scared the crap outta me when i turned my car on, jumped outta the car and it just turned off by itself!
def not my ICM as before it died, my tacho wasnt going beserk or anything..

[dsp26]

dammit i forget about this awesome thread.

I killed my coil and zapped myself on the chassis by holding a plug with pliers against contact C on the coil lol.

[B147ch]

ok so do i remove just the cap, or the whole dizzy to test coil?
im a bit noobish to this whole electronics thing but do i remove the coil from the dizzy to test?
or leave attached?
thanks

[dsp26]

- UNPLUG THE 2 CONNECTORS
- remove dizzy cap via 3 screws
- remove rotor. Rotor contact has to be facing the front of the car when doing this. the screw holding the rotor is only accessible on directly the opposite (firewall) side. Make sure you have leverage when you do this so as to not round the scerw when you attempt removal. There is thread locker on this from factory and you really have to crack it loose first go.
- remove the inner plastic cover
- and then your coil is right there. you don't need to remove it as contact points ABC outlined in the original post all face forward and are accesible once the inner plastic is off


the reason i said remove the 2 plugs is because you may have to crank the car a few times just to get the rotor in the right position. you can shock yourself and kill the coil and/or icm if you crank the dizzy while power is connected to it and the built charge has nowhere to go. trust me i killed my coil this way on the weekend and got zapped

[B147ch]

sweet thanks bro..
u just saved me from potential zapping lol
gonna test my coil this arvo after work.
cheers