Camber kits (and poor design)

[Zdster]

I would like to make people aware of the potential issues that can be faced with camber kits. First we should start by discussing what is camber? From Whitelines website:

"Camber is the inclination of the wheel from the vertical when viewed from the front. When the top of the wheel leans out you have positive camber, lean in equal’s negative camber."

Now as many of you are aware when you put on new wheels or you lower your car or even hitting a pothole or curb can push your camber out. Now in most instances this is not a big deal, but when a car is lowered significantly camber can become quite harsh. To alleviate the effects of camber you turn to a camber kit which can allow for adjustment outside of the parametres of the normal car settings.

Rear camber kits can range anywhere from adding additional washers to 'proper kits' that are sold on the market.

Front camber kits are a bit more complicated. The point of this thread is to bring awareness to some of the poor designs on the market and the potential issues that have arisen.

Here is what a camber kit looks like:


The metal silver piece (the ball joint) is adjustable so that it slides back and forth (therefore adjusting the camber). On either end of the metal piece are two bolts that lock the camber angle in place. One of the main problems identified with this design is that the channels that the bolts sit in are made of only a small amount of metal and have been known to bend or break. Skunk2 released a revision to their kit which now tries to stiffen up the area and stop the ball joint ripping out.

This thread was just to bring awareness to you all about the kits on the market and to research them well before committing. I have attached some links below to show some real world examples:
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=762468
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1767312
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=635008
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1876321
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1560685
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2034061
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1541857

P.S. camber does not effect tire wear at the same rate toe does.

[SiReal]

you are a king.

[LXRY]

I would like to make people aware of the potential issues that can be faced with camber kits. First we should start by discussing what is camber? From Whitelines website:

"Camber is the inclination of the wheel from the vertical when viewed from the front. When the top of the wheel leans out you have positive camber, lean in equal’s negative camber."

Now as many of you are aware when you put on new wheels or you lower your car or even hitting a pothole or curb can push your camber out. Now in most instances this is not a big deal, but when a car is lowered significantly camber can become quite harsh. To alleviate the effects of camber you turn to a camber kit which can allow for adjustment outside of the parametres of the normal car settings.

Rear camber kits can range anywhere from adding additional washers to 'proper kits' that are sold on the market.

Front camber kits are a bit more complicated. The point of this thread is to bring awareness to some of the poor designs on the market and the potential issues that have arisen.

Here is what a camber kit looks like:


The metal silver piece (the ball joint) is adjustable so that it slides back and forth (therefore adjusting the camber). On either end of the metal piece are two bolts that lock the camber angle in place. One of the main problems identified with this design is that the channels that the bolts sit in are made of only a small amount of metal and have been known to bend or break. Skunk2 released a revision to their kit which now tries to stiffen up the area and stop the ball joint ripping out.

This thread was just to bring awareness to you all about the kits on the market and to research them well before committing. I have attached some links below to show some real world examples:
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=762468
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1767312
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=635008
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1876321
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1560685
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2034061
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1541857

P.S. camber does not effect tire wear at the same rate toe does.

Are Eibach camber kits ok Zdster ? all above links point to skunk2 being no good. I was told that Ingnalls was the choice of many especially euro's. I got eibach's at a good price. Heard problems with kmac creaking noises too...

thanks for the heads up btw

[SiReal]

Hey Shen,

It mainly depends on the design. If its for a euro, i think the ingalls, eibach kits have ball joint replacements as well as the fork type. Please note these only apply to the fronts.

So... if you stick to the traditinoal ball joint full replacement, u should be ok (i've never read of any issues with that design).

Ingalls and SPC are probably the two most popular kits in the states. I bought the SPC over the ingalls due to the single control arm change vs the double arm change. for the 6th gen at least. For the rears only for me.

[Zdster]

As SiReal said, it really depends on the design. Here is another camber kit for a civic which eliminates the issue altogether:

[dynosaur]

As SiReal said, it really depends on the design. Here is another camber kit for a civic which eliminates the issue altogether:

does this front camber kit suit for DC2R ?

where could we get this camber kit if I m interesting on it ..?

thanks...

[dynosaur]

does any1 know where could I get this ball bearing front camber for DC2R ?

thanks in advance

[dynosaur]

As SiReal said, it really depends on the design. Here is another camber kit for a civic which eliminates the issue altogether:

does anybody know where could we get this camber kit ?

suit DC2R use ?

thanks for the info's

[bennjamin]

does anybody know where could we get this camber kit ?

suit DC2R use ?

thanks for the info's

that kit is for a EK only.
DC and EG use a slightly different front upper control arm, mounting points to the chassis are facing UP instead of SIDEWAYS.

Im sure you can find something similar for a DC2R

[DLO01]

Just some other feedback on the skunk 2 front upper control arms.

Make sure you re-tighten the 4 hex bolts on the sliding plate after 1000kms or so.

I was hearing a clunking sound from mine at slow speed turning and it turns out it was a loose plate in which it was sliding.

The problem is because the arm is painted. This of course over time has compressed and therefore the bolts have come loose.

This is why I always tell people not to paint a mateing surface, like the wheel mounting face on your hub.

[dynosaur]

that kit is for a EK only.
DC and EG use a slightly different front upper control arm, mounting points to the chassis are facing UP instead of SIDEWAYS.

Im sure you can find something similar for a DC2R

I did my best knowledge seach around , mayb my knowledge about dc2 is not good enough.

I hope some OzHonda members could show me some guide. thanks in advance

personally not prefered Skunk Pro type, coz I did c somr user compalint too much about that type.

I personal prefered that kind of bearing rather then PU type ( coz i could make me take the corner more accurately.

[tseesinngwailo]

I have just put a set like this on my DA, have not come across any issues yet, the tracks seem a bit thicker on the sides than what i can see in your pictures, but its a good idea to check regulqarly, my car is a daily driver too. Thanks for the info, good to see someone taking the time to research, Thanks