Page 6 of 10 FirstFirst ... 3456789 ... LastLast
Results 61 to 72 of 115
  1. #61
    Ozhonda Supporter Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    MV Agusta F4
    This is what I am trying to get at. What is 'better design'???

    Different manufactures have 'different designs'.

    It does not matter what 'design' you have. If your too low, your gonna do damage. Weather you damage your UCA or put a hole through your tower, its not good. How many times do I need to stress this?

    Yes I do have these UCA's. Defending the product I am, yes. Have I had a problem with this product, no I haven't. It is just proof that they do work 'perfectly fine' as long as you use them in thier confinds and are not excesivley low, as with any other UCA.

    Safety first, don't go to low.
    Deano.

  2. #62
    Ozhonda Supporter Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    MV Agusta F4
    Sorry man, don't want to sound like a prick. Its not the arms thats the problem, its the height of the car that is the problem.
    Deano.

  3. #63

    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    that kit is for a EK only.
    DC and EG use a slightly different front upper control arm, mounting points to the chassis are facing UP instead of SIDEWAYS.

    Im sure you can find something similar for a DC2R
    I did my best knowledge seach around , mayb my knowledge about dc2 is not good enough.

    I hope some OzHonda members could show me some guide. thanks in advance

    personally not prefered Skunk Pro type, coz I did c somr user compalint too much about that type.

    I personal prefered that kind of bearing rather then PU type ( coz i could make me take the corner more accurately.
    Yo~~! Vtec go ! go ! go !

    Check this :

    Garage Sales ( Brand New items ) For sale : http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83889

  4. #64
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    くろR
    i've been using buddyclub one for a while, don't have the tower hitting problem... prob because my car isn't that low, but i can't put a finger between the wheel and arch..

    anyone else using the buddyclub camber kits? i'm yet to encounter any problems but would like to hear from anyone that's used them before

  5. #65
    Noob crowd controller Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Car:
    Civic
    Quote Originally Posted by mku01 View Post
    i've been using buddyclub one for a while, don't have the tower hitting problem... prob because my car isn't that low, but i can't put a finger between the wheel and arch..

    anyone else using the buddyclub camber kits? i'm yet to encounter any problems but would like to hear from anyone that's used them before
    I havent heard of anyone running these before, but from the photos I have seen online they look similar to the skunk2 models. I would keep my eye on them (especially where the adjustment nuts are on the top). Would be good to hear from those with more of an engineering background though just to confirm my thoughts . . . .

    I guess the other point to mention/reinforce in this thread is just because you lower your car/put new wheels on, does not automatically mean that you need a camber kit. If after putting in suspension or wheels one finds that camber is dramatically out then consider buying one of these kits rather than just putting one straight on the car.
    See a good post? Give it a PQ point.


    Quote Originally Posted by ludecrs View Post
    They have the depreciation re-sale value of a burnt out and multi-rolled Commodore.

  6. #66
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Garage
    Skunk2 Pro plus camber kits are the best i've used so far. We use it on our street/track car. Never had a problem...

    We done 5-6 alignment settings with them since... havent faulted.

    From looking at the BC design, they should of put the allen key on the other side, makes it easier to change the camber.

  7. #67
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    Do U need Toe Adjusters/Compensators to adjust the toe? (96 Ek1 Civic)

  8. #68
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    DC5 Type S 05
    Quote Originally Posted by beeza View Post
    Do U need Toe Adjusters/Compensators to adjust the toe? (96 Ek1 Civic)
    not too sure what your getting at really.
    but if you mean can you adjust toe with stock suspension.....- yes,toe is adjusted by undoing the lock nut on the tie rod and spinning the rod it in or out on its thread

    im using skunk2 pro front and rear camber kits.no problems so far.
    rears are very good,easy to adjust and lock up very well.

    fronts,i took it to pedders (i dont have wheel alignment equipment at work) and they told me they only adjusted the rear because the front was too hard...wtf,so dodgy.
    sure,its a bit harder because you have to jack the car up to get to the adjuster allen key bolts,then put it back on the ground to see what the wheel alignment is at.but seriously,i was pissed,i thought they would of atleast called and said it will take a bit longer and cost a bit more,not just - it was too hard.

    no faults in the design with skunk2,just that yeh its a bit of a mission to adjust the front,unless any1 else has a good technique?
    CHEAPEST PRO DIY

  9. #69
    Just to share my kit. My civic EG hatch, Ive got skunk2 Pro in front and rear, it has been in the car for more than 3years, im using 16in. wheel and a finger gap between the tire and wheel arch, lowered spring and bilstein shocks. Its a daily sydney street driver school drop offs and shopping. I go to Heasmans for checks. So far No problems.

  10. #70
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    Thank Teh mechanic.I see,so their's no advantage in having the toe adjusters?

    I will be getting a front and rear camber kit soon,I was just wondering if I need the toe adjusters aswell.

  11. #71
    ^people usually get aftermarket, tie rod ends ( toe adjuster side) and rack ends, in drift, to allow for bigger degree's at full lock, but for street use like you're saying, would only considering buying new ones if your current ones are stuffed.

  12. #72
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    Cheers Marko.So we have them stock?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.3


Terms and Conditions
Ozhonda.com is in no way affiliated with the Honda motor company or Honda Australia in anyway whatsoever.