new whiteline sway bar kit for ek

[EK4R]

Hey whiteline.
do you have any rough price on this project whether its with the swaybar + brace or just the brace itself ?
thanks

[Whiteline]

Hey whiteline.
do you have any rough price on this project whether its with the swaybar + brace or just the brace itself ?
thanks

All the latest products are already updated in our Online Parts Catalogue. Go to Whiteline and in the top right hand corner select your car make, etc.....

Cheers,
Wojtek.

[bennjamin]

wil you be adopting something similar to the EG/DC range of reinforcement kits ? Also redesigning the bar to follow the OEM route ?
( LOTS of issues with clearance , on lower control arms and after market piping etc.)

[ccibai]

so it is the brace-lower control arm KSB709? yeah gonna go n get 1 asap.

[Whiteline]

bennjamin,
Our current EG/DC two piece bracket kit is also a direct replacement for the original brackets, with all mounting points and swaybar pivots points being the same as for the original brackets and swaybar.
On the EG/DC model, the swaybar pivot points are directly above the control arm bolt, so there is no torque being generated from the D-bush onto the control arm bolt which would try to rotate the bracket. So, the bottom line is that in my view a single piece bracket is not as critical on the EG/DC chassis as it is on the EK, and I am not personnally aware of any failuires with our EG/DC kits. But, we will be very happy to discuss and consider it.

ccibai,
KSB709 is a control arm/chassis bracket brace. It was designed as an additional component for our now no-longer-available previous two piece brackets. It will not fit and more to the point it is not required with our new single piece bracket kit.

Cheers,
Wojtek.

[ccibai]

Ok, thanks for the info. So which part number for the subframe brace m i looking at if i alreayd hv a 22mm adj whiteline sway bar? cheers

[Zdster]

I am not personnally aware of any failuires with our EG/DC kits. But, we will be very happy to discuss and consider it.

As far as I am aware, there have been some failures. Pretty sure Ben will be able to address that point though.

Edit: See here - http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...whiteline+sway

[Muzz]

Im surprised to see tubes mounting the plate to the subframe like with their old mounts. I would of thought that they would use a solid lump of metal that all the bolts go through like ASR, so forces are spread more evenly between all bolts. eg:

Hopefuley those tubes are welded to the plate, and not just spacers for the bolts to go through! It seems they may be from the pic, it looks like 2 different types of metals.

[bennjamin]

Agreed. Im surprised to see tubes mounting the plate to the subframe like with their old mounts. I would of thought that they would use a solid lump of metal that all the bolts go through like ASR, so forces are spread more evenly between all bolts.

thats what i said before lol !
The entire force is applied to only 2 or 3 small areas directly on the reinforcement mounting holes - which is the area where it "plucks" out.
Refer to Zdster's link above - it has happened on a few EG/DC's too , mine included.

[Zdster]

^^Even if it is welded on, you still face the risk of the entire section being pulled forward as Ben has said. It is only really attached to the subframe by those few points it would seem.

[Whiteline]

G'day Everyone,

In order to address some concerns raised, I think it is worth reviewing the problem by pointing out that there are 2 main types if failures surrounding the rear swaybar for this chassis.

Failure type #1 - plucking of the M8 bolts out of the chassis. We have seen this to happen on cars using original chassis brackets only. We have addressed this with our original two-piece bracket design by spreading the load over a larger area, and incorporating the control arm bolt to further strengthen the bracket. We are not aware of any failures of this type with our chassis brackets.

Failure type #2 – tearing of rear sub-frame out from the floor pan. We are of the opinion that although our two-piece bracket design may not have been full proof, it was certainly capable of doing its job as intended, as evidenced by our project car and most customers’ cars working just fine, with only a very small number of people reporting problems. However, as already mentioned by Jim, one of the main reasons for these problems was not-torquing of mounting hardware which is very critical for this installation.

As the main force acting on the bracket is in the vertical plane, the spacer tubes or solid blocks working in compression make little difference to the integrity of the bracket or its mounting strength onto the chassis. If the major force would be in the horizontal plane, then these would be more critical. However, that is not the case, and the tubes/solid brocks are simply there to position the bracket away off the chassis.

We have again very carefully reviewed our design, and considered your feedback and suggestions, and we replace the already large washers that are used behind the M8 bolts inside the chassis/subframe, with a single backing plate with 2 holes to further spread the load over a larger area. The tubes used are heavy wall, so there is a large contact area to spread the load over. IF this would be a problem, then the tubes would either bend/break, or they would push the chassis mounting face in, and we have never seen this happen, and can’t see it happening.

With the help of ozhonda forum, we have tried to improve our product to make it both stronger to reduce the likelihood of any chassis failures as a result of possible installation shortfalls – although this is still very critical and should not be ignored – as well as maintain a competitive and affordable cost for everyone to enjoy its benefits. I like to believe that we have delivered both.

Happy to answer any questions.

Regards,
Wojtek.

[bennjamin]

With the help of ozhonda forum, we have tried to improve our product to make it both stronger to reduce the likelihood of any chassis failures as a result of possible installation shortfalls...

i do agree this is a contributing factor to a few "failures" or loud noises arising from swaybar setups... small things like not using enough grease on the bushes or over tightening bolt/s etc can prematurely wear the kit.
Its good that Whiteline has improved the install instructions (from 2 pictures of the finished thing back in the day lol! ) to a more in depth guide.

All things considered - i strongly think the whiteline design will be better with a rear plate to spread the load - 2 other kits (beaks and ASR ) use this same kit , and i have never heard of subframe tearout with these designs.



the frontal plate can be any shape or design or material , but the "plucking" force is placed onto 4 small holes on the subframe. With a backing plate there , it gives a larger area for support IMO

thoughts ?