WOE is me, whiteline swaybar and ripped subframe

[nigs]

Any traders on Ozhonda dealing with ASR or can bring these bracing kits in?
My car makes alot of clunking and banging from the rear, maybe it's too late T.T

[Muzz]

cheers mate, im reaaly keen to here how it performs for you.

[Newcivic]

If you want ASR brace, PM EG5 (Jdm yard)

[Muzz]

tried out the swaybar yet tegno1?

[TEGNO1]

Not yet: sent my shocks back to get shortened,
so my cars on stands at the momment,
cant wait to go wakefield when all done,
still need to do heads and cams,
getting front swaybar,
get rego,
pay for house,
lots of saving to do,
trying reaaly hard to get in on the road though,
can i hit someone up for a no payback loan, common im good for it,
sorry, i wont forget to let you know when i do, later.

[big tone]

the same thing had happend to me about 12 months ago but all i was told was i had miss used the car to cause it to tear the sway bar out. and did not help at all.. but to make things worse i had purchased a front swaybar from whitline and it would not fit properly and when i spoke to whitline they then told me that it was not fitted properly and i should change my mechanic.
i was not happy with them i then modified the sway bar and things are now good. i use 3mm steel to reinforce to the rear sway bar..

[muhhan]

Where and how did you place the 3mm steel on the rear subframe? Do you have any pics to show? I'm going to be installing mine swaybar shortly but after hearing the same problem occuring time and time again I'm getting a little paranoid about the weak subframe issue.

Cheers!

[Muzz]

Where and how did you place the 3mm steel on the rear subframe? Do you have any pics to show? I'm going to be installing mine swaybar shortly but after hearing the same problem occuring time and time again I'm getting a little paranoid about the weak subframe issue.

Cheers!

much much cheaper to prevent it than to repare it

[big tone]

basically all i done was cut out 3mm steel, 40mm wide 100mm long
shaped them to fit in position then then tacked it in position.
from the fron side i used a 90degree drill and pree drilled the holes, once that was done i welded the rest of it up. spray with some stuff thats stops it from rusting. (forgot what it was called)
very rough but ive lowerd it with tein super street and rocky has real bad roads. no sighn of any stress on the weld, i did replace the nuts and bolts for something stronger and havent had a problem since.

[A.G.System]

What you are talking about is kind of like what i suggested to Whiteline a few months after my rear frame tore through.

Next time im planning on doing similar to what you are talking about but no need to weld just measure and cut .

Ii used one on back and one on front of the mount it should give a wider pressure footprint and thus reducing the stress on the bolts alone.

Theoretically should be a fix even if a little rough that could be had for:-

Steel: $5
Paint: $3
Decent Bolts and Nyloc Nuts: $8
Satisfaction knowing that YOUR Whiteline bar isnt going to kill your subframe: PRICELESS.

Ill let you know how it goes when i finally get my new car.

[Muzz]

Steel: $5
Paint: $3
Decent Bolts and Nyloc Nuts: $8
Satisfaction knowing that YOUR Whiteline bar isnt going to kill your subframe: PRICELESS.

lmao

[muhhan]

Yeah, that's the thought I had last night after reading your post and doing a bit of research on the Beaks reinforcement kit.

So after adding some thickness to the subframe by using a reinforcing plate did you cut down the spacers on the back of the whiteline mounts so that the position of the swaybar wouldn't be pushed back further by the extra thickness?

AG System, that's why I haven't installed my swaybar yet, as I need to get my mitts on some new high-tensile bolts and nuts.