***K24Z1 project teaser***

[EUR003act]

lol

i hate heated seats, i dont get how u guys put up with it

i get into the car on a a 9degree morning, window down, and outside air on, the seat is on fire within 5minutes, lol

i get into my car... on a -2 degree morning... car is completly frozen... get inside, its so cold my hand nearly sticks to the aluminium gearknob... turn the seats on, 3-4mins later, my ass and back are warm

[Crapdaz]

i get into my car... on a -2 degree morning... car is completly frozen... get inside, its so cold my hand nearly sticks to the aluminium gearknob... turn the seats on, 3-4mins later, my ass and back are warm

yeahh ahhaha similiar to when i leave late from sister's place, if i dont have the temp knob turned to warm.... more than 3/4(25-45mins) of the trip home i'd be frozen in my seat...... especially your aluminium shift knobs.

[EUR003act]

just got an email from USPS...

My head was posted today!

should have it next week hopefully...

damn, its gonnna arrive before i get my head gasket and tools required lol

[Crapdaz]

ROFLMAO!!! too bad, your the one on impulse mate. *thumbs up to you*

[EUR003act]

a post of possible interest to some people?

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showpos...41&postcount=8

[Suntzu]

Ok so once you put the K20Z head on your K24 what are you going to do about tuning or you think it will be ok? Also, im gunna guess that the USA shop is modding the k20z head for the K24 with the coolant lines issue and so on. I wonder what your new compression ratio will be??

Im pretty interested in this mod. Its very exciting and you are a brave man indeed.

That being said who do you trust to do the head work in canberra? Id like to do a few things but have no idea who is a good operator in canberra.

Keep the updates coming..

[EUR003act]

Ok so once you put the K20Z head on your K24 what are you going to do about tuning or you think it will be ok? Also, im gunna guess that the USA shop is modding the k20z head for the K24 with the coolant lines issue and so on. I wonder what your new compression ratio will be??

Im pretty interested in this mod. Its very exciting and you are a brave man indeed.

That being said who do you trust to do the head work in canberra? Id like to do a few things but have no idea who is a good operator in canberra.

Keep the updates coming..

nah im not getting any adaption mods done, the K20Z head should be direct bolt onto K24 block... my compression ratio should stay the same, i am however going to use the Cometic 0.027" gasket which will raise comp slightly.

time permitting when i do the build we will find out static comp ratio (im interested in it too )

as said earlier, im hoping that the stock ecu will cope with the new head and re-learn its maps. im getting a good friend (who has been a mechanic for a long long time, most of it spent building high performance rally engines) to help me do the swap. he is very keen with hondas ecu's and reckons itll have no problem coping. the only thing we've got to look out for is axing out the injectors or fuel pump/regulator and the car running lean. im trying to do everything properly, including:
-ARP headstuds
-Cometic headgasket
-New cam chain
-New gaskets and oil rings throughout
-piston to valve clearance checks
-valve clearance
-vtec solonoid check and vtc actuated check
-cylinder compression testing
-air/fuel ratio monitoring

i tried to do research into someone in canberra to the swap for me, the only people i saw fit to do it (other than my friend) was honda because they know hondas and have the specific tools. but labour there wouldve been HUGE and i want to do alot of it myself to make sure no corners are cut...

that all being said, its costing me a fair bit getting all the honda specific tools lol but if this all works, im sure one of you guys can hire them off me for your builds lol

[aaronng]

a post of possible interest to some people?

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showpos...41&postcount=8

Nice. Thanks for that!

nah im not getting any adaption mods done, the K20Z head should be direct bolt onto K24 block... my compression ratio should stay the same, i am however going to use the Cometic 0.027" gasket which will raise comp slightly.

time permitting when i do the build we will find out static comp ratio (im interested in it too )

as said earlier, im hoping that the stock ecu will cope with the new head and re-learn its maps.

It would be a good idea to check if there are additional coolant lines required when mating the head and block together.

Also, the ECU will not relearn the map enough for different cams. All the ECU does is alter fuel trim. You still need to alter the ignition map a well. But it will run anyway. Let us know how it copes with the new cams.

BTW, are you getting the K20Z3 head including the cams? Or are you running the K20A2 cams from Toda?

[EUR003act]

It would be a good idea to check if there are additional coolant lines required when mating the head and block together.

from every other K20/K24 frankenstien ive seen, no i havent seen any other additional coolant lines required. the only mod others normally do is change the K24 oil pump to the K20s for increased rpm (as the stock K24A1/4 blocks they normally use only rev to around 6000rpm). but because im keeping stock rev limit i dont see the need to change it.

Also, the ECU will not relearn the map enough for different cams. All the ECU does is alter fuel trim. You still need to alter the ignition map a well. But it will run anyway. Let us know how it copes with the new cams.

i was more talking about the fact that with higher lift theyll be more air going into the cylinders (if the duration is the same) and the ecu will hopefully relearn that. ill definately let you all know tho hopefully for the best!

BTW, are you getting the K20Z3 head including the cams? Or are you running the K20A2 cams from Toda?

i got the K20Z1 head (off the 2006 RSX-S) it is coming with cams, which are apparently one spec down from the K20A typeR cams. ill be meassuring them all up and using the better set...

[aaronng]

i was more talking about the fact that with higher lift theyll be more air going into the cylinders (if the duration is the same) and the ecu will hopefully relearn that. ill definately let you all know tho hopefully for the best!

Yeah, that's my worry. It will alter when in closed loop mode while relying on the O2 sensor. But at WOT open loop mode, it relys on the settings in the ECU, not the O2 sensor. My Euro did about 12:1 AFR on Toda's dyno, so you have a bit of space before 13.5:1.

i got the K20Z1 head (off the 2006 RSX-S) it is coming with cams, which are apparently one spec down from the K20A typeR cams. ill be meassuring them all up and using the better set...

K20Z1 engine was rated for 210hp, 160kW. Are your K20A cams the AUDM or JDM version?

[EUR003act]

Yeah, that's my worry. It will alter when in closed loop mode while relying on the O2 sensor. But at WOT open loop mode, it relys on the settings in the ECU, not the O2 sensor. My Euro did about 12:1 AFR on Toda's dyno, so you have a bit of space before 13.5:1.


K20Z1 engine was rated for 210hp, 160kW. Are your K20A cams the AUDM or JDM version?

yeah im looking at installing a air/fuel meter for the breakk in process...

according to adrian and the markings on the cams, mine are the JDM ones, 220hp... but i can only confirm this after ive measured the typeS cams...

[Nepolian]

Hi, Im probably gonna look in to this type of mod in the near furture. Can I ask why you didnt go for a local K20A2 head?