Mr Spoon says that engine flush stuff is a no no. Arronng might want to elaborate. I would like to know your views on this, Arron?
I hate engine flush. Engine flush is basically thin oil the consistency of diesel which you then run your engine on for a few minutes. I have a policy of nothing thinner than 0w-30 in my engine, so if anyone approaches my car with an engine flush, I'll use it to give them a good bowel cleansing.
Even if you had good luck that there were no carbon debris that jammed the gap between the bearing journals (like what Mr. Ichishima (Spoon) said could happen), you would still have accelerated wear on the journals in that few minutes of running on super thin oil.
I hate engine flush. Engine flush is basically thin oil the consistency of diesel which you then run your engine on for a few minutes. I have a policy of nothing thinner than 0w-30 in my engine, so if anyone approaches my car with an engine flush, I'll use it to give them a good bowel cleansing.
Even if you had good luck that there were no carbon debris that jammed the gap between the bearing journals (like what Mr. Ichishima (Spoon) said could happen), you would still have accelerated wear on the journals in that few minutes of running on super thin oil.
Agreed. Would you use 10w40 in your car as Royal Purple have limited viscosities available in Aus.? (5w30 or 10w40). I am running 5w30 atm.
In reference to engine flushing...why not just use a releatively cheap oil (possibly OEM) with high detergent levels and run ethanol for about 150-200km's then flush and replace again(both times changing oil filter)...I don't see an engine flush doing much more than that...also engine flushes are also not recommended as they don't comply with the standards of abrasiveness on OEM Seals...
Originally Posted by Tegzieboi_BAR
i gave this motul racing oil a go coz i got recommended n was waaay better than honda n castrol edge imo but since its $100 a pop plus $30 for engine flush (reccomended) dnt think i'll b usin it every time i do an oil change... bloody great oil tho, noticed the difference immedialtely, even on idle, engine a lot quiter n smoother.
Motul @ $100? I would buy Royal Purple @ $80...I noticed more than an noticable sound differance, smoothness, response and fuel efficiency (about 20-30km's per tank consistantly if not more and I just recently had my engine rebuilt) RP-FTW...and trust me I don't usually support american produce however they definantly have a good thing going there. Besides...its actually PURPLE...'sif you wouldn't want it lol.
Previous Products Used for Reference...
Motul 300V Series
Fuchs Semi-Synthetic/Full-Synthetic
Motul 8100 Synethic and 4100 Semi-Synthetic
Mobil Gold
Honda OEM.
I have used all of them and believe royal purple is the noticably better choice. I also think unless your going to spend the big bucks such as Royal Purple or Motul 300V; Honda OEM would probebly be the wisest choice.
Agreed. Would you use 10w40 in your car as Royal Purple have limited viscosities available in Aus.? (5w30 or 10w40). I am running 5w30 atm.
I would use anything between 0w-30 to 10w-40. You'll be alright for sure.
Originally Posted by Sp00ny
I have used all of them and believe royal purple is the noticably better choice. I also think unless your going to spend the big bucks such as Royal Purple or Motul 300V; Honda OEM would probebly be the wisest choice.
I reckon the mid-range oils are still pretty good. Motul 8100 for $65 and 20% sale is good value, and so is Castrol Edge 0w-40 with 20% off. Edge 5w-30 is ok as well, but the only time I would buy that is when it is on promo for $30 for 5L. Honda FEO is good for a daily driver which has regular oil changes, but if you like pushing your car a little bit hard, there is nothing wrong with the mid range oils. I don't really agree with a street car needing 300V unless your wallet is too heavy for your pocket.
I don't really agree with a street car needing 300V unless your wallet is too heavy for your pocket.
Very true. Expessially considering my somewhat conservative driving habits...however I decided to get my engine rebuilt when I purchased it so since I have control over its wear and life I decide to Lay out the extra bit...I use Royal Purple + K&N Oil Filter...when you consider that a mid priced oil at about $30-50 change at intervals at 5k/6months (what i would personally do) and royal purple @ $80 (could go to 10k easily but i choose 6-7.5k/9 Months) It really doesn't work out that much more expensive...expessially if you don't drive much...
You are right though...it can be considered overkill
Very true. Expessially considering my somewhat conservative driving habits...however I decided to get my engine rebuilt when I purchased it so since I have control over its wear and life I decide to Lay out the extra bit...I use Royal Purple + K&N Oil Filter...when you consider that a mid priced oil at about $30-50 change at intervals at 5k/6months (what i would personally do) and royal purple @ $80 (could go to 10k easily but i choose 6-7.5k/9 Months) It really doesn't work out that much more expensive...expessially if you don't drive much...
You are right though...it can be considered overkill
From what I found now, cheap mineral oils like Magnatec and even FEO last about 7000km with sedate city driving. After around 7000km my engine goes very rough. I have tried it twice and it always happens around 7000km. The midrange oils on the other hand like Edge 0w-40 and Motul 8100 don't go rough. But I do notice a loss of torque at high rpm, as if the oil was too thick, after going for a trackday and then another 3000km of street driving. So for me, the mid range oils are sufficient, eventhough I track my car. But, if your car budget allowed the use of high end oil, go for it by all means. I just get ticked off when ppl say to get 300V because the engine will feel more powerful. LOL. Thankfully, that hasn't happened in this thread yet.
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Originally Posted by VTECMACHINE
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