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  1. #25
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    MelBURN!
    Car:
    breeze guess wats inside?
    with 5 k i would do a b20 conversion yo my b16. that'll easily put between 120-130.

    Enough to have fun in right?
    FK YER! especially wen they see ur GL sticker n dey think ur carby LOLOLO~
    BseriesOUS~!~

  2. #26
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    delsol crx
    toda kit will cost far more then 5 grand... trust me... and a stock b20 on a stock b16a head will not give you a 120-130kw atw...

    if you ask me id say go with a b16a2 and do some light mods like extractors, exhaust,intake with the left over money you have instead of doing a b18c2 conversion.... however id say b18c7 type r conversion in stock form will out perform both of them by far... go with a b18c7 if you can afford it.... if not go with a lightly modded b16a2..

  3. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by iwantvtec View Post
    take it like this man i went from a gli (lousy 62 kw) to a b16a 84kw dats like a 30% power gain man, like thats alot.

    Toda cams give 130 atw? really i nva knew. LOL do u also get 150 atw if u stroke ur b16?
    why stroke it when u can just get hte b18

    i dont get it

  4. #28
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    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    EGSi,DC2R,ED9
    I have both, and I'm more impressed with what the B16A can achieve given a 200cc displacement deficit which is a lot for a 1600cc engine.

    My B16A2 ( just an aust spec ex EG2) is modded with typeR cams, cai, type R throttle body, light flywheel and IM with crome ECU tuned by DynoDave ( 107.7kw atw ) in my EG, and my B18c7 in my dc2r which is totally stock bar a k&N filter. I also have a stock B16A in my ED9 CRX which suits the light crx very well.

    In the B16A with 2 passengers or one heavy passenger ie 100kg you can really feel the dropoff in performance whereas in the B18C it has a much less pronunced effect. Also you can get away being in the wrong gear at low revs and still have some acceleration whereas in a B16A in the same scenerio you wont have any.

    It never ceases to amaze me a 1600cc engine can punch so much above its weight and it revs so well ( oversquared design vs B18C underaquared design might have something to do with it ). Driving the totally stock and factory tuned B18C7 in the dc2r seems ho hum and refined after driving my tuned B16A EG even though it has fair bit more torque and little more power. Obviously it's not fair to compare a tuned engine with light flywheel with a stock setup in a heavier car; hence I cant wait to install the Toda B cams, 68mm TB, exedy flywheel, CAI, Toda headers and mugen cat back on our b18c7 and get it tuned to see what that feels like. Will keep you guys posted when that happens, still awaiting the toda cat to arrive before the mods get underway.

    As for fuel consumption I typically get 7.2-7.3L/100km for my b16a crx, 7.5-8.2L/100km for my d/dave tuned B16A EG and 9.2-9.5L/100km for our B18c7 dc2r.

    At the end it's what you are willing to spend and what will you be contend with. If you have the budget to get either and prep the motor to the same std when you do the conversion ( ie renew water pump, belts, seals and clutch ) then get the B18C. If on the other hand it's between prepping a B16A and dropping in a B18C as is and hope for the best then you'll be better off doing the B16a properly with a peace of mind in the long run.
    Last edited by EG30; 01-06-2008 at 06:14 AM.

  5. #29
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    Jun 2006
    Location
    WA
    Car:
    EG+CL9
    Quote Originally Posted by MM89 View Post
    yeah i am, B16A eventually getting an all motor rebuild. so will have to see if that toda rebuild really gives 130kw+ at the wheels, or even better a stroked B16A to 1.8L giving some stupid power figure of like 150kw at the wheels !?

    I think my question really is it worth getting a B18 for the extra cash over a B16?

    This you really have to ask yourself. Everyone has different values. For example, I think a B16A is sufficient because you won't use all that power on the road anyway, which is where the car is going to spend most of its time on anyway. Talking about driving to the speed limit here and in a sensible manner, you would only be able to go 110km/h max on any Victorian road, which i believe is the state limit.

    Down low, from idle to around 3,000rpm or so both motors are quite similar? Correct me if I'm wrong. Then moving on to track work; if you take it on to the track, even then you won't be able to use all that power. Plus, i personally think it's more rewarding to drive a smaller B16A harder than a more powerful B18C.

    I doubt you would be disappointed with either engine as you're getting a significant gain from 55kw > 118kw or 125kw, that's obviously more than DOUBLE your power, which in modifying terms is quite a lot.

    Something I forgot to mention in the last post was the conversion of other parts like brakes and suspension while you're at it, but as you said, you already know what you need.
    after owning a DC2 i am considering a EK/EG b16a2 setup

    i found the B18c too hard to have fun with on the streets, for example the car would just be starting to warm up and i would go to give it a nice vtec kik and i would have to stop straight away because of speed limits + corners + bends etc and not wanting to either be pulled over or injured/dead (already spent 6 months in a wheelchair because some idiot hit me in the teg)

    after already having the b18c i want something different, a bit more of a challenge, i think a motor with a smaller power output and just as much revs would be a fun project, I/H/E and a light tune with some brake and handling upgrades and i think i will have a nice little street car to get to work and something i can have fun with on a track day as well, i would like to do time trials and a hill climb if i ever get the oportunity

    the other appealing thing with the B16a2 vs the B18c is that it is cheaper and that is money i can put into making sure it gets done properly... fluids, seals, belts, brakes, electrics, CTR parts etc etc and the point of the conversion/build for me is the project itself... not getting the car to do stupid figures... i just want something to do lol
    ----------------------------
    D15b Turbo EG Sedan Build + CL9 Lux N/A Build
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127680

  6. #30
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    MelBURN!
    Car:
    breeze guess wats inside?
    Geee i know man. Its fun hittinh a corner on second, going 7k revs so FUn! i would imagine it'll b scary shit on a b18c cause of the more power output.
    BseriesOUS~!~

  7. #31
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    City of Perth..
    Car:
    EK4 & Jazz VTI...
    b16a and b18c are both great engines..

    but if u spent the savings u saved from buying the b18c and mod the b16a.. u will enjoy the car more.. be it suspension wise or breathing mods..

    but b18c is still the ultimate answer for all round performance.. b16a simply lacks torque.. on a uphill battle after cornering at 40+km/hr on 2nd gear.. and waiting a million years for the vtec to kick in is not enjoyable for daily driving..

    b18c gets the vote.. and modding the b18c with I/h/e on a civic = stock wrx killer.. seen it and witnessed it..
    JDM Ek4 Squad Perth..
    Quote Originally Posted by Chi View Post
    Fact is you should get over ur EK4, cos its a POS FWD and its in the worse colour ever released.
    Get a real car then start bragging.

  8. #32
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    www.letusdrive.com.au
    Car:
    D15B7 YOOOOOO!
    b16 for loud cross over VTEC!
    Check out my build thread EGB16T. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...build../page14
    Check out my for sale thread constantly updated with b series/ eg parts!

    Wakefield Honda Nationals First Timer : na-118 EG b16 1:16.4900

  9. #33
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    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    City of Perth..
    Car:
    EK4 & Jazz VTI...
    erm.. b18c n b16a vtec got diff sound? lol.. seriously??
    JDM Ek4 Squad Perth..
    Quote Originally Posted by Chi View Post
    Fact is you should get over ur EK4, cos its a POS FWD and its in the worse colour ever released.
    Get a real car then start bragging.

  10. #34
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    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    XR6 Turbo
    Quote Originally Posted by VT1-R View Post
    erm.. b18c n b16a vtec got diff sound? lol.. seriously??
    Yes it's quite a noticeable difference.... B16a has a much more distinct crossover while the B18c is much more subtle.



    B20VTEC > B18c > B16a
    ______________________



    B20VTEC Build Thread

  11. #35
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    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    sydney yo
    Car:
    green whip!
    if you plan on dropping in the motor and forgetting about it, go b18
    if you're gonna boost then just go b16 because its generally cheaper which gives you more to spend on either strengthening it up for boost or for better boost goodies

    regarding vtak noise i can't really tell the difference between my old b16a2 and my b18c7
    if anything, the b18's a tiny bit louder

  12. #36
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    Nov 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    XR6 Turbo
    B18cR sounds very similar to B16a, it all comes down to the intake manifold design
    ______________________



    B20VTEC Build Thread

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