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  1. #193
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by power_of_dreams View Post
    I won't be tracking so I suppose I should be safe
    How do you find the intermediate pedal feel? There's nothing worse than brakes that are either on or off.
    The ceramics are gradual. They slightly less initial bite, but brake harder as you press down on the pedal. Pretty good I reckon. They are not touchy at all.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  2. #194
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Euro
    my mechanic recommended bendix and i went with it, did i make the wrong choice? car is daily driver and has never been on a track.

    06 Euro Lux 5AT Graphite Mods: K&N Panel Filter -sold

  3. #195
    also, what do you guys think about running diff brand pads front and rear

    my rears are gone, my fronts are ok.
    is it ok to run oem fronts and hawk rears, or should I swap all for hawk?

  4. #196
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by blk05gli View Post
    my mechanic recommended bendix and i went with it, did i make the wrong choice? car is daily driver and has never been on a track.
    Bendix is fine for street. Hope you got Bendix Premium/General CT and not Bendix Ultimate. The Ultimate is aggressive on the rotors.

    Quote Originally Posted by power_of_dreams View Post
    also, what do you guys think about running diff brand pads front and rear

    my rears are gone, my fronts are ok.
    is it ok to run oem fronts and hawk rears, or should I swap all for hawk?
    It's fine, just change the rear as long as the left and right are the same brand/model.

    The rears alone are so weak that they contribute very little when the car is under hard braking.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  5. #197
    Quote Originally Posted by yfin View Post
    Well I think I may have matched up some part numbers!

    Honda Australia part numbers (I only asked about 2004 model):


    • Front brake pads part number is 45022SEAJ01 and priced at $157.75

    • Rear brake pads part number is 43022SV4G22 and priced at $160.15
    ACURA TSX part numbers:

    • Front brake pads part number is 45022-SEA-J00 (2004) or 45022-SEA-J11 (2005)

    • Rear brake pads part number is 43022-SV4-G22 (2004) or 43022-S84-A50 (2005)

    Apparently Honda changed the pad material on the 2005 TSX model hence difference numbers but you can use the 2005 pads on the 2003/04 (according to the TSX forum). Same probably applies in Australia but I didn't check 05 pad numbers.

    So I have a perfect match for the rears - but a slightly different number for the fronts. I think it is just pad material and it will still fit perfectly.

    Heck for $80US F&R I am happy to punt on it being fine. At least I have rears confirmed. Hopefully this helps people out there before they pay $320 at a Honda dealer in Aus!



    By the way - still interested in thoughts on those Hawk pads!
    It seems the ones listed under TSX above are not the current model used in Australia. Yfin, if you are still on here, can you let me know how you went?

  6. #198
    Hi All,

    Could someone confirm the Hawk Ceramic part numbers for an 05' CL9? Is it HB366Z.681 for the front and HB366Z.681 for the rear?

    I'm getting a bit of brake shudder when braking from 100km/h+ (and slow "shudder" when slowly pulling up at lights), so i'm thinking rotors are either warped or have build up on them. The first thing i'm going to do is replace the pads (since the OEM pads are just about buggered).

    If that doesn't fix it, i'll get the rotors machined. Will running new pads on potentially warped rotors cause any damage to the pads?

    On a side note, the OEM pads have a white paint dot that lines up with a paint dot on the caliper, does this mean they are the original pads?? I bought the car with 70k on it, it's now down 86k. Is that typical pad life?

    Cheers,
    Steve

  7. #199
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by EuroSteve View Post
    Hi All,

    Could someone confirm the Hawk Ceramic part numbers for an 05' CL9? Is it HB366Z.681 for the front and HB366Z.681 for the rear?

    I'm getting a bit of brake shudder when braking from 100km/h+ (and slow "shudder" when slowly pulling up at lights), so i'm thinking rotors are either warped or have build up on them. The first thing i'm going to do is replace the pads (since the OEM pads are just about buggered).

    If that doesn't fix it, i'll get the rotors machined. Will running new pads on potentially warped rotors cause any damage to the pads?

    On a side note, the OEM pads have a white paint dot that lines up with a paint dot on the caliper, does this mean they are the original pads?? I bought the car with 70k on it, it's now down 86k. Is that typical pad life?

    Cheers,
    Steve
    Get the ones for the 2004-2008 CL9 TSX listed on Heeltoeauto.com. I think the part number is listed there too. They sell the correct size.

    86k is pretty good brake pad life in my opinion. It depends on driving style, but pure city driving can wear the pads out much quicker than 86k.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  8. #200
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Euro
    ^^ my experience has been that manual cars have longer brake change intervals than autos. Both my cars have about 100K on them, but the maxima has had 2 changes and the Euro only 1.

    cheers

    06 Euro Lux 5AT Graphite Mods: K&N Panel Filter -sold

  9. #201
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    Get the ones for the 2004-2008 CL9 TSX listed on Heeltoeauto.com. I think the part number is listed there too. They sell the correct size.

    86k is pretty good brake pad life in my opinion. It depends on driving style, but pure city driving can wear the pads out much quicker than 86k.
    Cheers Arron

    For others that are interested, I can confirm the Hawk Ceramic part numbers (for CL9) are HB366Z.681 and HB145Z.570

  10. #202
    Quote Originally Posted by power_of_dreams View Post
    are dixcel type m for track or street?
    Dixcel M can be used for both track and street depending on what car and what time you do on the track. If you are a novice, type-M will be fine, but if you cranking some good times on the track, type-Z is your friend.

  11. #203
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CU2 Accord Euro
    In regards to brake life, mine still had some meat on them (not much) and thats 83000k's, no wonder why OEM's cost so much, usually the bendix pads I get wear out straight away.. but it might also have to do with the way I used to drive my previous car

    Anyone know the actual brand / manufacturer or the specs (hard / soft) of the OEM Honda pads?

  12. #204
    Quote Originally Posted by xxb4xx View Post
    In regards to brake life, mine still had some meat on them (not much) and thats 83000k's, no wonder why OEM's cost so much, usually the bendix pads I get wear out straight away.. but it might also have to do with the way I used to drive my previous car

    Anyone know the actual brand / manufacturer or the specs (hard / soft) of the OEM Honda pads?
    was it both front and rear that made 83000?

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