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the ITR pretty much maxed out the 240's its also around the 115-120kW mark & its NA!
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 Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Other way round lol
I used the stock 240cc for a while but they started to fade round the 115/120kw mark.
I was running RC 440cc when at 11/12psi
Its the pump you can save on as the stock pump can handle 300hp there abouts... (Stock D16Y1) not sure if the Y4 rocks the same....
And yeah as Ryan says, a good 2.5" high flow exhaust is a must!!!
In fact that should be the first thing on your list IMO
sorry dude lol i just like the idea that the pump is new and working to full capacity as an old worn pump mightnt be as glld thats my theroy anyway, mine are stock for the moment and sitting fine at 6psi but they are coming out soon
luke did the RC's fit straight into the fuel rail of the D and then straight into the B?
WOULD YOU LIKE SOME FRONT BAR WITH YOUR FRONT MOUNT 
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 Originally Posted by lookingforboost
sorry dude lol i just like the idea that the pump is new and working to full capacity as an old worn pump mightnt be as glld thats my theroy anyway, mine are stock for the moment and sitting fine at 6psi but they are coming out soon
luke did the RC's fit straight into the fuel rail of the D and then straight into the B?
Not straight but close too..
Just had to use some bits of then B's rail and bits off the D and all working out...
Though Adrian did redo em so maybe not as good as I thought lol
The pump is only very cheap anyway so yeah might as well upgrade
161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO
13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001
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yeah pump no probs, since im going to the extent of changing pumps, id also like to do the injectors. i could always use 444cc GTR injectors, but either a resistor box from an 88-91 civic or resistors are required, & also additional wiring, save me a bit but more work. i think im better off with brand new items...
& yeah, a 2.5" exhaust is high on my list. only thing im worried about, is the dump pipe, the space available between the turbo outlet & ac compressor isnt much, & to save a bit of cash, i was either going to find a used edelbrock dump (hard to find), or an OEM nissan fwd dump pipe, but am unsure whether it will fit or not. trial & error i guess...
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Another couple if ignition/ECU options for you.
1. A water injection kit or DIY.
2. Convert to odb1 and download one of the existing Chrome D16 turbo ROM's.
There's a few different ones people have uploaded which have worked fine. I'm sure you can find a similar setup.
This saves you the need for an emulator and tuning time, however if you decide to do so later, it's easy.
If using a safe boost level (< 0.5 bar) everything should be sweet.
> i could always use 444cc GTR injectors,
I've very recently read that Honda KXX series injectors flow quite poorly. However they have a fine screen place over the injector pintle to help atomise the fuel.
If you delicately remove the screen, they flow 500cc.
Just a rumour... Anybody know if they fit D16's injector plug or impedance specs?
Nick.
PS. I'd offer to burn the eprom, but my stuff is in boxes. I'm in the middle of a moving house. Damn Sydney housing prices!!!
Last edited by nd55; 24-05-2009 at 06:35 PM.
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the engine management is realy going to make or break your setup. And lets just say if it doesnt break it then it wont really make it either.
you can spend money on injectors and a new fuel pump blah blah blah but if you skimp on management you will regret it.
you say a good tuner will be able to tune it. yes they can. ask them if they recommend it. hell no. Good tuners dont like work with shit built cars. WHY? because when shit breaks it makes them look bad. The engine to start with runs a MAP sensor to calculate the fuel and timing map in the first place. Now tuning an NA engine with a tps only based piggyback has limitations. Most people will jsut tune for max load which is 100kpa in an NA engine. Now you got another 50-60kpa of load. You will have to tune very rich to bandaid the apparently problem with the AFC HACK because for the same throttle position the engine can make different boost depending on if it is going up a hill or not.
Tuning a boost car with a thottle position based air fuel controller is stupid.
Let me say that if you are going out to spend $500 on a brand new AFC Neo you are very silly. Some guys have tried to replace the tps signal with the MAP sensor signal so you can tune the engine with respect to load but it will not give you a very wide spectrum to tune for boost.
In this day and age a chipped ecu is the best way to go for Hondas.
Do it once and you will be very satisfied that your engine wont throw a rod out the block with boost it up a hill on half throttle.
If you have already made up your mind then whats the point. Good advice gone to waste.
Last edited by iced; 25-05-2009 at 12:36 AM.
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sounds good, end of the day its up to u.
Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION
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 Originally Posted by VTECnique
thats the "no add on" method i assumed your using,which basically turns your $600 AFC into an overly priced method of tricking the ecu out of seeing boost & just trying to coordinate your larger injectors with the stock fueling maps,with very rough/limited adjustability for fueling.
i really cbf reading thru 24 pages,lol,but i bet if u keep reading your find some nasty stories,or do a bit more research into why u'll probably end up with some nasty timing issues coming onto boost.
u still have a slim chance of it working out for u though,but i know where my $600 would be headed.
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that is from 2002
post a thread like that now see how flamed you will get.
even on a forum like HMT people dont do that anymore. back in the day they did. Many of the engines blew up from poor setups using FMUs and AFC HACKS.
ive seen the most ghetto patch job turbo kits, and the thing holding it together is a good chipped and tuned ecu.
you are justifying why you can use it and turning a blind eye to why it is shit.
it is clearly from a proper engine management point that the cons outweight the pros.
the only pro is cost if that is even the case.
if there is no dedicated fuel and timing map for boost, stay away.
SAFC
SAFC2
AFC NEOs have their place in tuning but this is not the application to use one in.
can and AFC clearly differentiate 2, 4, 6, 8psi? NO
the engine is best to be tuned for rpm vs boost so that you can define the injector pulse and timing at specific rpm vs boost cells.
therefore it should not be used.
Last edited by iced; 26-05-2009 at 11:11 PM.
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need some opinions
if you were to turbo your honda & had to keep the ac, would you use an external wastegate or internal? the reason i ask, i think it would be easier for the exhaust shop to make a 2.5" downpipe with no internal wastegate. im just trying to keep exhaust prices to a minimum...
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 Originally Posted by iced
that is from 2002
post a thread like that now see how flamed you will get.
even on a forum like HMT people dont do that anymore. back in the day they did. Many of the engines blew up from poor setups using FMUs and AFC HACKS.
ive seen the most ghetto patch job turbo kits, and the thing holding it together is a good chipped and tuned ecu.
you are justifying why you can use it and turning a blind eye to why it is shit.
it is clearly from a proper engine management point that the cons outweight the pros.
the only pro is cost if that is even the case.
if there is no dedicated fuel and timing map for boost, stay away.
SAFC
SAFC2
AFC NEOs have their place in tuning but this is not the application to use one in.
can and AFC clearly differentiate 2, 4, 6, 8psi? NO
the engine is best to be tuned for rpm vs boost so that you can define the injector pulse and timing at specific rpm vs boost cells.
therefore it should not be used.
OK, ima get the AFC, see how it runs, if it dont run good, ill go to a chipped ecu, but i have to change - intake manifold, throttle body, IACV, etc. its not just a simple matter of plugging in a conversion harness, chipped ecu & away you go. Dyno time, tuning, how much do you think that would cost? i know i can get a basemap for my setup, but it'd still need to be fine tuned, & whether the basemap is good or not, etc.
Im doing it on a budget, if it blows then i know i wont use an AFC again...
If i lived down south, yeah no worries, id go straight for the conversion harness & chipped ecu, cause i know there's a few honda specific tuners around there. but, being where i live, there are tuners here, but more for bogan V8s, id much rather use a tuner that has dealt with alot of hondas. AFC, i have the ability to tune it myself, it may not be the best, but for my situation, itll do!
Last edited by VTECnique; 31-05-2009 at 08:16 AM.
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