FD stereo Thread

[BC8]

I can confirm the fronts will fit 6.5" and most probably the rears. I currently have 6.5" and i remember another member stating he had some in the rears also.

I had mine installed, so most probably spacers were used but they don't need much adjustments or any screwing into the car body.

Im guessing your not going to amp the speakers? Type S should be fine then as anything above type R would be a waste if your not amping, but don't expect alot of improvements over the stock speakers.

Im going all the way man

Amp the speakers and a small subs as my rear boot is used often. Most likely going Type R's. I mean, if your replacing speakers over stock, having an amp is important for better improvements. I use to use jaycar kevlar, precision range for my splits, rears, amp and sub and it went hard for the value.

Thanks for the confirmation, will need to check if spacers are needed.

[NightRyder]

is there is DIY to these double din fascia's?..a friend of mine is looking to get a double din for his FD.

Ask JB where the double din was made from. A few months ago a Jap one was around 180 and the thai one was either 150-160.

Prices might have changed as it was last year, and i know audio places sell them for even more then 200, so its probably a good price. Saves trying to import yourself.

[liquid23]

is there is DIY to these double din fascia's?..a friend of mine is looking to get a double din for his FD.

It is pretty easy
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showpos...46&postcount=2
shows you how to remove the dash + other things.
all you have to do is just unscrew the vent and a/c things and attached it back onto the d-din and add your own player.

[sKy.xD]

Im going all the way man

Amp the speakers and a small subs as my rear boot is used often. Most likely going Type R's. I mean, if your replacing speakers over stock, having an amp is important for better improvements. I use to use jaycar kevlar, precision range for my splits, rears, amp and sub and it went hard for the value.

Thanks for the confirmation, will need to check if spacers are needed.

Ah sorry you never mention amping so I only assumed lol whoops. Type R sub goes alright. I was going to have type R subs but then went on to better things

I reckon if possible try going for the type R speakers as well ... The sub bass might drown out the speakers. Probably least go have a listen and compare

[NightRyder]

thanks for that liquid23. I sent this to my mate to see but he is now asking if there is another DIY which shows you exactly how to remove the radio from the air con unit considering they made the radio and air con appear to be in one whole panel?..How would you split it?

Thanks

It is pretty easy
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showpos...46&postcount=2
shows you how to remove the dash + other things.
all you have to do is just unscrew the vent and a/c things and attached it back onto the d-din and add your own player.

[happy]

Ask JB where the double din was made from. A few months ago a Jap one was around 180 and the thai one was either 150-160.

Prices might have changed as it was last year, and i know audio places sell them for even more then 200, so its probably a good price. Saves trying to import yourself.

Just got from DMX 3 weeks ago, $195 for genuine Honda japan made, include postage and 2 brackets
Pm him, he might still have some left

[liquid23]

thanks for that liquid23. I sent this to my mate to see but he is now asking if there is another DIY which shows you exactly how to remove the radio from the air con unit considering they made the radio and air con appear to be in one whole panel?..How would you split it?

Thanks

the a/c unit should be held on by 4 screws.


vent on the side



screw the a/c unit and vent back onto the double din fascia and then install a double din player or single din with the brackets that come with the 2din.

here is a link to show 2din and single din
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84708

[ryanc]

ne1 installed carputer? thinkin of doin it to my fd, just not sure which lcd screen to go for

[Stig]

currently running

headunit: alpine iva-w502ev
subwoofer: 2 x alpine sbr-s122v
monoblock: jl audio 1000/1
cap: rockford fosgate rfc1d
wires: rockford fosgate rfk4

waiting to get
front: alpine spx-17pro
rear: alpine spx17pro
amp: alpine pdx-4.150
wires: rockford fosgate rfk4d
and sound deading! rear shelf rattles like a bitch

[sKy.xD]

currently running

headunit: alpine iva-w502ev
subwoofer: 2 x alpine sbr-s122v
monoblock: jl audio 1000/1
cap: rockford fosgate rfc1d
wires: rockford fosgate rfk4

waiting to get
front: alpine spx-17pro
rear: alpine spx17pro
amp: alpine pdx-4.150
wires: rockford fosgate rfk4d
and sound deading! rear shelf rattles like a bitch

Please tell me your running a cap because you think its pretty

I definitely also need sound deadening for the rear shelf. It rattles just where the brake light on the shelf.

I was told just to remove the rear parcel shelf and put foam under. Though i will still be obviously doing front doors and also boot.

Running:

headunit: Alpine 9887
front: Focal 165KRX2
rear: none (no bloody need!)
subwoofer: 2 x Rockford Fosgate T1 12"
monoblock: Rockford Fosgate T15001bd
4 channel:Audison lrx 4.1k
Battery: Optima Yellow Top D51R
wiring: Stinger Pro 0awg
sound deadening: Dynamat Xtreme (coming soon)

[cracker]

i use a 1F cap 4 my setup too. i need it otherwise it wont mask my dimming lights...everylight...but it also looks pretty and yeah i got dynamat xtreme sound deadening...it sounds SO much better!!!! makes its soudn cleaner.

[sKy.xD]

Bandaid to the real problem! Go get a better battery and upgrade your big 3!

What areas did you dynamat? I definitely need some as my door and rear shelf rattles like crazy! I'm even considering doing my whole boot as well.