ED with D15B7 injected wiring help

[tseesinngwailo]

That's what I said! I don't know how many times I've had to search every fuse before replacing one or two when I've been doing the wiring.

Peter

PS. Have a look here Chris:

http://technet.ff-squad.com/

Oh yes, I forgot to say, i did find the 50A fuse in the under-bonnet fuse box was blown, probably why I didnt have spark to begin with, and being an electrician for 15 years, I kicked myself for not looking at the fuses first!

[jdm_b16a]

Oh yes, I forgot to say, i did find the 50A fuse in the under-bonnet fuse box was blown, probably why I didnt have spark to begin with, and being an electrician for 15 years, I kicked myself for not looking at the fuses first!

There you go! Bl**dy electronics! why can't they make cars without wiring and all this electronic stuff?

Peter

[tseesinngwailo]

Jason you need the work jus go over and help chris !

YES!!! Jason, if you want to come and help I will pay haha

[ECU-MAN]

WHOOPS! Chris, did you cut that connector off when you removed the wiring at PnP? ECU-MAN, we had that schematic when Chris was at my house and we managed to trace the important wires but if that plug is missing ... well ...

Peter

just make sure the cabin loom has all the connectors to meet the engine loom at the LH Shock tower

[CRXer]

hard for me to say that i will have the answer,ive never looked at AT control before.
but i'll have a look if u want me too.

as far as starting the motor,since u dont have the main relay installed,im assuming u just have a constant ign supply to pump,or even manually switched maybe?
are u feeding a start signal to ecu? (which would also go to main relay if it was there,but not important to relay if u have pump going ok)

do u have power present at all the injectors with ign turned on(check power to idle valve while your there)?

i doubt u will need the g/box lockup solenoids present to start car,but u might have to plug them up to the loom & just ground & stash them somewhere to keep the ecu happy.

maybe u will have to simulate the presence of the interlock unit,to start car(i doubt this,but hey,could be wrong),although considering u can release the shift lever manually if interlock fails,then u would doubt it is needed to start car.

again,check u have brake pedal input to ecu as well,interlock wont release in some cars if brake pedal not pushed(also if throttle is pressed),so maybe ecu needs to see brake before it will let u start,although could be wrong again,cos u wouldnt be able to clear a flooded motor to start if ecu started imposing restrictions like no throttle etc.

u might have to end up converting the ecu to manual & even chipping it to run smooth with the non-electric g/box or something along those lines. at least that would remove all the AT start restrictions/missing solenoid faults etc.

wow,id prob bail now & head to the WTB section for a MT & a clutch pedal

[tseesinngwailo]

Thanks for the info CRXer,
I want to keep it as an auto, so will keep looking, I am sure i just missed a connection or 2. If you can spare some time, I would appreciate it

Its NOT currently loomed up in the car, this is because I want it running first before i wire it into the car, i think this is easier than chcuking it all in and then troubleshooting missing connections.
The fuel pump is supplied by a direct fuse and wire for now until i wire the PGMFI relay up, again, all done to test everything before installation

ECU-Man, regarding the loom, I have a complete loom from the ECU to the shock tower connectors (3 plugs) on the passenger side, and on the drivers side I have 2 plugs which one wire at least is the constant +ve to the ignitor, and i think some of the other pins are just for the dash, not sure, but from what I can work out, i have everything from the ECU to the distributor and injectors.
One question though, when I run the pump, i am sure i can hear/feel fuel flow through the rail, and then into the return, i thought it should build pressure and the return only operates as needed?
Cheers
Chris

[CRXer]

is the 3rd plug on the drivers side there? ie the junction connector(or junction box for sparkies lol) joining all the yellow/black power for injectors,idle valve,O2 there?

fuel return will be in effect at idle,ie high vac,as reg bleeds pressure off the rail to account for pressure diff to manifold pressure,not sure how much return u will get at wot,ie atmo manifold pressure,but i assume very little.

try the screwdriver stethoscope method on the injectors & see if u can hear them clicking while cranking.

[bennjamin]

PS possible the ICM or coil on the dizzy also maybe faulty (IE weak) - also what is the dizzy manually set at ? try retarding it slightly by hand to see if that catches and cranks.
Also , got the spark leads on the right parts of the dizzy ?

[CRXer]

yeh lead order would be good thing to get right lol
if u have fiddled the dizzy,prob try advancing instead as the ecu pulls a heap of retard on cranking anyway,but it does depend where u have it at present anyway,whether it needs ret or adv...

[bennjamin]

that above -

another dumb thing....changed spark plugs Chris ? Get some new NGK coppers and see if that helps.

[CRXer]

not so dumb ben,wet plugs dont help due to all the cranking

[bennjamin]

not so dumb ben,wet plugs dont help due to all the cranking

Its dumb because its usually the last thing people check and by then its too late. Yes , if they are wet the engine will never start.
Chris , take out plugs , disconnect dizzy + fuel pump and crank for abit to vent excess vapour/circulate. get brand new plugs in , retighten everything , apply WOT and try to start again.