Quote Originally Posted by Sydneykid View Post
By "shorten the tie rods" do you mean cut ands re thread them or simply adjust their length by the thread provided?

When you lower a DC5 without changing the steering arms you have to wind out the tie rods to get the static toe back where it belongs. On the other hand, when you lower a DC5 and change the steering arms at the same time you don't have have to wind out the tie rods to get the static toe back where it belongs, it's pretty much right where it is.

Maybe what you are describing is simply puting the steering arms' length back close to where they were before you lowered it.



Of course, you can't have bump steer in a race car, so the target is always zero. In a production based car we very rarely achieve zero through the whole range of travel suspension, so the compromise is zero within the most commonly used travel. That 50 mm of bump and 25 mm of rebound I talked about in the previous post.

We shouldn't ignore the rear bump steer, it's just as important for handling, you just don't feel it as much through the steering.


Cheers
Gary
Yep I had to cut and re-thread my tie rods as the tie rod ends were bottomed out on the tie rod and I still had toe in . The other person I know that has used the Mugen brackets also had to do the same. What dampers are you using if you don't mind sharing?

So you are saying that those numbers posted above are the bump steer numbers that you have measured or they were around that?