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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    K20 DC2R
    if the em1 rear swaybar is the same as the ek4 one, then it wont fit with the ASR brace because the holes on the d brackets have a different spacing. If u use a dc2r swaybar u need to buy ASR endlink adaptors, i think they were <$20 shipped when i bought mine

  2. #14
    Just look to the states and get the complete kit - ASR brace, ASR 24mm bar, ASR D Bushes, and ASR rose jointed endlinks to suit EK. Very good value for money at the current exchange rate.

    Killa is right, stock bar does not fit on an ASR brace. Brace isnt necessary for stock bar anyway.

    If you get ASR, dont bother with a beaks tie bar - its useless and serves no purpose except for reducing ground clearance.

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    EM1
    Quote Originally Posted by Alexx View Post

    If you get ASR, dont bother with a beaks tie bar - its useless and serves no purpose except for reducing ground clearance.

    What about the bling factor?
    "It's B1GTYM baby!!"
    3TripleZero

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Milano Red EM1, CU2 Euro
    Quote Originally Posted by BIGTYM View Post
    What about the bling factor?
    lol im keeping my skunk2 lower bar on when i get my asr brace on, extra bling yo

  5. #17


    I stand by my statement - When i see a tie bar on an ASR brace i don't think its bling at all, i think they have wasted their money.

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Ya mum's house in Brissy
    Car:
    MY11 GTI, DA9
    Quote Originally Posted by jks24 View Post
    or you can use dc2r rear sway bar as well right? Im thinking of doing the exact same thing to my EM1 soon
    DC2R is 23mm and EK9 is 22, both are solid bars and for EK4/EM1 stock sway bar is 16mm hollow. the EK9 will fit right up as DC2 has diff LCA's and a diff mounting point to EK/EM.

    I have EK9 22mm with ASR brace, Carbing lower tie bar and F7 LCA's on my EM1, u cant go wrong with that! highly recommend.

    Will be changeing to Skunk2 lower tie bar when 1 of the traders has the clear anodized 1 in stock... as it forged billet aluminium and the Carbing is mild steel. every bit of weight loss counts lol
    Last edited by DEMON83; 13-11-2009 at 02:00 PM. Reason: added lower tie bar
    Leighton T. aka LTPICS MSN=DEMON83_INC@HOTMAIL.COM
    '80 Accord 3D Hatch>'02 VW Golf S>'00 EM1 B18cR>'09 SYM Red Devil + '04 DC5R

    for sale= http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127617

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    EM1
    LOL..Christopher Walken
    "It's B1GTYM baby!!"
    3TripleZero

  8. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by DEMON83 View Post

    Will be changeing to Skunk2 lower tie bar when 1 of the traders has the clear anodized 1 in stock... as it forged billet aluminium and the Carbing is mild steel. every bit of weight loss counts lol
    LOL you are talking about weight? If you go without a tie bar altogether, it weighs nothing at all! Wow fancy that . Asr acts as a tie bar.

  9. #21
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    K20 DC2R
    needs extra stiffness for those nebo runs

  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Dc2 + EG
    Quote Originally Posted by DEMON83 View Post
    DC2R is 23mm and EK9 is 22, both are solid bars and for EK4/EM1 stock sway bar is 16mm hollow. the EK9 will fit right up as DC2 has diff LCA's and a diff mounting point to EK/EM.

    I have EK9 22mm with ASR brace, Carbing lower tie bar and F7 LCA's on my EM1, u cant go wrong with that! highly recommend.

    Will be changeing to Skunk2 lower tie bar when 1 of the traders has the clear anodized 1 in stock... as it forged billet aluminium and the Carbing is mild steel. every bit of weight loss counts lol
    Ok so a asr spands across the width of your subframe.
    Placing a tiebar across the gap would mean you're just joining it to the asr.

    Now tell me this, do you really think that you're going to flex the asr enough to justify a tiebar before you snap a bolt/bend something else.

    Tiebars+asr are a waste of money as stated, simple bling factor.

  11. #23
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Ya mum's house in Brissy
    Car:
    MY11 GTI, DA9
    Quote Originally Posted by lil_foy View Post
    Ok so a asr spands across the width of your subframe.
    Placing a tiebar across the gap would mean you're just joining it to the asr.

    Now tell me this, do you really think that you're going to flex the asr enough to justify a tiebar before you snap a bolt/bend something else.

    Tiebars+asr are a waste of money as stated, simple bling factor.
    Would never dream of telling u anything as u know everything.... Its a personal choice and on my car i can have as much bling / reinforcement as i like...
    Leighton T. aka LTPICS MSN=DEMON83_INC@HOTMAIL.COM
    '80 Accord 3D Hatch>'02 VW Golf S>'00 EM1 B18cR>'09 SYM Red Devil + '04 DC5R

    for sale= http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127617

  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Dc2 + EG
    Quote Originally Posted by DEMON83 View Post
    Would never dream of telling u anything as u know everything.... Its a personal choice and on my car i can have as much bling / reinforcement as i like...
    Just as I expected, you have no reply to me other then dribble.
    I'll admit I dont know everything but I do have common sense which seems to eb lacking alot nowdays.

    Have as much bling as you want but dont go thinking it's going to improve your laptimes because well.. its extra un-needed weight and you know this.

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