Dedicated DA9 Q & A thread

[jeff_inauen]

hey LoOse3r, how is the sunroof that we put in??
did it fix the leaking problem?

[rage_against]

believe me ill be asking the biggest n00b quetions in here, ahahah
heres one, whats itr?? integra type R??

the brakes that i ordered from eBay were a straight fit for Da9 integras, hmm. i hope that answers your question.

there are pics on the post above

thanks man they look real good quality. nice find. yeah itr is integra type r. took me ages to figure it out lol. same with i/h/e i just could not figure it out lol

[jeff_inauen]

thanks man they look real good quality. nice find. yeah itr is integra type r. took me ages to figure it out lol. same with i/h/e i just could not figure it out lol

well dont leave me hanging!! lmao
whats i/h/e??

they should make a slang dictionary for this site.. ahahha

[slimx]

already done buddy lol.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80110

[Chriskoss]

Hey jeff, did you have any problems removing the rotor screws that hold the rotor in while changing your discs? Ive stripped the screws on my rear rotors and having trouble getting them out

[_CRX_]

Hey jeff, did you have any problems removing the rotor screws that hold the rotor in while changing your discs? Ive stripped the screws on my rear rotors and having trouble getting them out

try heating them up and then use an impact driver

[jdm_b16a]

Anyone know what would be needed to replace my b16 block with a h22a block in a da? engine mounts I'm presuming being a h series, but what about other things with the engine fitment?

A lot of hard work. Not an ideal engine to be transplanted into the DA (or Civic for that matter) unless you want to go drag racing (that is, in a straight line). I won't go into all the reasons, you can read about that on the web. But you have to get your suspension right, for a start. You also need engine mounts from someone like Hasport. There is a book by Aaron Bonk (yes, that's his real name ) that details all Honda engine swaps and what you need to do them, and this book is available online (if you know what I mean). Do a search.

Regarding the cross-drilled and slotted rotors, I personally believe these to be a waste of money that could be spent elsewhere to improve your car. They have the show appeal (bling factor, I suppose) but drilled rotors have been known to crack between the holes under stress especially if not done correctly. Slotted aren't too bad but you could get slotted front rotors here for much less. And don't forget there are OEM solutions for bigger brakes, you just need to do some research and reading, and plan accordingly. What about Type R calipers and brake lines for $50 (used) and front discs for $15 apiece. You have to get the discs redrilled to 4 x 100 but that is cheap and easy. So I'm saying a full Type R front setup for about $150. Look through the DBA catalog, the Bendix pad catalog online and GOOGLE U.S. based websites - there's a ton of info. If you cross-reference part numbers you'll see there is more than one model in the Honda lineup that uses Type R brakes.

There are even ways of getting a 5 stud conversion for about half what people are charging here for ITR kits. What I'm saying is don't just jump in and throw money away when a bit of research will surprise you in what you can do with your Honda (DA).

Peter

[jdm_b16a]

Try heating them up and then use an impact driver

Better still (and it works for me all the time) is to use an appropriately sized Phillips head drill bit and put it in a half inch socket adapter, and use a torque wrench. Carefully leverage the bit and slowly ease the grub screw out. Some WD-40 won't hurt either.

Peter

[rage_against]

well dont leave me hanging!! lmao
whats i/h/e??

they should make a slang dictionary for this site.. ahahha

lol intake headers exhaust = i/h/e

and..... http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80110

your wish has been granted lol

[rage_against]

A lot of hard work. Not an ideal engine to be transplanted into the DA (or Civic for that matter) unless you want to go drag racing (that is, in a straight line). I won't go into all the reasons, you can read about that on the web. But you have to get your suspension right, for a start. You also need engine mounts from someone like Hasport. There is a book by Aaron Bonk (yes, that's his real name ) that details all Honda engine swaps and what you need to do them, and this book is available online (if you know what I mean). Do a search.

Regarding the cross-drilled and slotted rotors, I personally believe these to be a waste of money that could be spent elsewhere to improve your car. They have the show appeal (bling factor, I suppose) but drilled rotors have been known to crack between the holes under stress especially if not done correctly. Slotted aren't too bad but you could get slotted front rotors here for much less. And don't forget there are OEM solutions for bigger brakes, you just need to do some research and reading, and plan accordingly. What about Type R calipers and brake lines for $50 (used) and front discs for $15 apiece. You have to get the discs redrilled to 4 x 100 but that is cheap and easy. So I'm saying a full Type R front setup for about $150. Look through the DBA catalog, the Bendix pad catalog online and GOOGLE U.S. based websites - there's a ton of info. If you cross-reference part numbers you'll see there is more than one model in the Honda lineup that uses Type R brakes.

There are even ways of getting a 5 stud conversion for about half what people are charging here for ITR kits. What I'm saying is don't just jump in and throw money away when a bit of research will surprise you in what you can do with your Honda (DA).

Peter

thanks for that. any idea how much redrilling rotors to 4 stud costs?

[jdm_b16a]

Thanks for that. Any idea how much redrilling rotors to 4 stud costs?

Depends on where you get it done. Anywhere from a few beers to $100. The trick is finding someone who knows what they are doing and does the job properly, alignment wise. You need a template like a hub that you can reverse and lay on the new hub, mark the holes carefully, well spaced from original holes, and redrill slowly. An engineering workshop is a good start.

Peter

[jeff_inauen]

Hey jeff, did you have any problems removing the rotor screws that hold the rotor in while changing your discs? Ive stripped the screws on my rear rotors and having trouble getting them out

yea, i had the same problem.. i just ended up drilling them all out and replacing them with new screws that i had laying around