How to beat EG b18cr with EK?

[bennjamin]

but to answer question, b18cR your ek will be almost the same, depending on driver.

How much is a EK with a b18c7 setup ? Because a eg with full interior (minus ps and ac....15kg ?) is 980kg. I would think a ek running the same way would be around 1100 or alittle less. Correct me if wrong !
Assuming that , around 80-100kg more gets the eg ahead. Same as driving with a passenger so its not much , but its there.

[hisoka]

yeah it is there. but you wouldnt even notice that tiny fraction in a straight line.

its a little under 1100 so your right.

the only reason i would go eg b18cr over ek b18cr is if i was a hardout eg fan. otherwise ek has better centre console and a more modern shape

[DD2]

Leave the B16A and go with an I/H/E, 4.9 final drive, lighter flywheel, LSD + a tune.

And it's money not wasted if you decide to upgrade to b20 / b18cr / H2B as you can keep the box.


Check this video out for inspiration...


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[geeang]

Leave the B16A and go with an I/H/E, 4.9 final drive, lighter flywheel, LSD + a tune.

And it's money not wasted if you decide to upgrade to b20 / b18cr / H2B as you can keep the box.


Check this video out for inspiration...

If it's for a daily, I'd stick with 4.7 Final Drive, 4.9 is a bit of a pain for a daily.

[DD2]

4.9 ftw!

[geeang]

4.9 ftw!

Not if you ever go on the highway, you'll be sitting on 4000rpm @ 100km/h, pretty much in VTEC while cruising @ 110km/h (which gets tiring after about 30 seconds).

[GenesisEG]

I'd love to do coffee, but I live in Sydney. I was in Sunshine the last couple of weekends doing some renovations on a house (don't you love interstate love jobs?) but I don't get down to Melbourne much.

As for the weight difference, again, something very much underestimated. Perhaps not as noticeable on the long straights (inertia and weight are good friends), but acceleration is hinged on weight, and so is braking and cornering. I think the only real disadvantage EG's have over EK's in regards to racing is chassis rigidity, the age of the car makes them a little less rigid, but that can be overcome without too much hassle.

I bought an EG4, all hooked up for an ITR brake conversion, and once I get my brakes, suspension, wheels and tyres done, I'll be saving for a B18C. That's my little monster. I've already done Spoon boss kit with Nardi wheel, OEM shift boot, Buddy Club short shifter (B series shifter on a D series box, goes great) and Spoon duracon shift knob. Got some big plans, just gonna take time.

Hoping to do larger rotors with Spoon calipers, braided lines and whatnot, all the good stuff after I'm done with the B18. Can't wait.

[redefine]

^ sounds like quite the little beast you'll have there

and agreed on the weight issue. N/A cars generally take advantage of light weight chassis much more then boosted cars, where you can just kick up the boost (to an extent), so weight effects it much more.

[MM89]

ITR brake conversion is pretty heavy compared to standard EK4/DC2 four stud 262mm conversion. And we are talking about rotational mass here.

[GenesisEG]

It's just a stepping stone, but the ITR brakes should pull up the Civic pretty quickly. Once I get the 18 in there and things are running well, then I'll start to upgrade parts slowly, like upgrading the ITR rotors and callipers up to Spoon or something.

I was looking at getting TEIN Super Streets, but apparently my mate is now sponsored by HSD with his drift car, so maybe I'll see if I can sort something out with some HSD coilovers. Just hope they aren't too stiff...

I'm trying to design my car around canyon/mountain runs with a little daily driving on one side and perhaps a little track work on the other. It's really hard trying to cater for all three. Too much power, and it becomes unruly on the streets and mountain roads, and too little, and I'll get left for dead on the track... Oh noes.

[geeang]

I'd advise against the TEIN Super Streets unless you could get your hands on the stiffer Japanese version, the other ones are far too soft and wallowy for any sort of track work.

Also, B18C will be far from 'too much power' so I'm sure you'll be fine there

[GenesisEG]

I think the B18C will be about right. K series motor would probably be too hardcore for what I want.

I dropped down from a 600hp car because I'm after balance now, and you'd be surprised how hard a 1.8L can go if it's tuned properly. If I wanted big power, I never would have bought a Civic in the first place. I was actually considering a Supra or R32 GTR as well, but since it's too hard to use massive power on the street, I decided to go for a more balanced, handling oriented car, and the Civic won that one.

By too much power, I meant for street and mountain use. Overly powerful cars are hard to control in corners because you have to be so careful with the throttle. I know I will never be a serious competitor on the track with a B18 (compared to all the K20's and K24's out there), but on the street, it's a weapon. As long as I can turn corners and pull the car up well, I'll be happy, the 18 is just to satisfy my craving for acceleration, since even a pissweak Civic can keep up with most cars on a downhill mountain pass if the handling work is done right (it's all about keeping up the pace). You should watch some Initial D!