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  1. #25
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    91 ED Hatch
    If you can afford a k swap, get a K24 and type r head. If you cant, build a strong B20 block, Really high compression pistons ect. Have you considered a G23 swap?

    http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp...dge/index.html
    ::Street Level::

  2. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Photonic_Si View Post
    If you can afford a k swap, get a K24 and type r head. If you cant, build a strong B20 block, Really high compression pistons ect. Have you considered a G23 swap?

    http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp...dge/index.html
    interesting read but as taken from the article ...."It goes to show you don't need a 'K' to make a lot of 'HP'." But Chris cautions that not everyone should embark on a G23 build. "If you've got the tools and a garage, and know your way around an engine, by all means-go for it," he advises, "But if you're expecting it all to just snap together... better let a pro handle it." Words to live by".

    we're not in the US so if you get a pro to do it parts aren't cheap and so isn't labor.


    like sugested just get good intake, headers and high flow cat + tune, your fujitsubo cat back is fine

  3. #27
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    gladesville
    Car:
    DA9-N/A DC2-S/C

    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by Bludger View Post
    1.8 to 2.0 is a 10% increase. not 20%.

    if going from a b16 or stock b18c2 then i would say its worth upgrading.

    but you're going from a b18cr so i think its a waste of a perfectly good motor. difference wouldn't be as much if you were upgrading from a b16.

    save your money.
    your right on the percentage part! my bad.

  4. #28
    *** the K stick to your b series. i worked a 1.8 in my ek track car and other people always thought that i had a b20 under the bonnet.
    JDMYard Eg civic lsvtec 1.04:1 WAKEFIELD PARK
    Bel Garage Dc2r/Neptune ecu
    SUPERLAP 2010 clubsprint FF na winner
    1.54.81 street tyre

  5. #29
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Newcastle
    Car:
    Honda Integra Type R JDM
    love all this reading guys ... future plans are Quads, toda headers.... i would love to hit the 200hp mark thats my goal when i hit that i will be truely happy .. although i say that now lol..

    concidering the mods i have now. cam gears, cat back ,(maybe cams) flywheel good solid clutch,Hondata, (now have SS intake that goes into front bar),intake, what will i need to achieve the 200 mark?
    jdmEG5: Will u take 2 ounces of weed +$500 your way? I'm not kidding.

    Speed is a matter of money... How fast can you AFFORD to go?

  6. #30
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Quote Originally Posted by Alexplicit View Post
    love all this reading guys ... future plans are Quads, toda headers.... i would love to hit the 200hp mark thats my goal when i hit that i will be truely happy .. although i say that now lol..

    concidering the mods i have now. cam gears, cat back ,(maybe cams) flywheel good solid clutch,Hondata, (now have SS intake that goes into front bar),intake, what will i need to achieve the 200 mark?
    Cam shafts for sure, valve springs and retainers to support the shafts, an intake/exhaust port job, upgraded TB and IM, the Toda header you mentioned, re-welded combustion chambers, a high compression piston kit, maybe a stroker kit, light weight crank would be nice.

    Hitting 200 HP is not easy man. Some people here have done a shite load of work and only hit 120-130KW, let alone 150. I'd aim a little lower just to be safe mate, it will cost you over $10g IMO and I still don't think you'll quite make it.

  7. #31
    Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Unit 5/15 Sefton Rd, Thor
    Car:
    08 Red CU2 Euro
    200hp... Actualy it's a walk in the park... But then again, I've done it before... & more than a few times...
    Our power target for next years IPRA U2L engine is 180kw @ the wheels, from a B...

    Best advice...
    If you're after high output & reliability & you can't do it yoursef...
    Do yourself a favour & only use someone who can...
    Bottom line is... If they haven't done it before... Be honest, they're either still practicing & or full of shit....

    DIY guys...
    Your mantra is "Combination is everything"
    TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
    TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
    Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
    P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au

  8. #32
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Quote Originally Posted by TODA AU View Post
    200hp... Actualy it's a walk in the park... But then again, I've done it before... & more than a few times...
    Our power target for next years IPRA U2L engine is 180kw @ the wheels, from a B...

    Best advice...
    If you're after high output & reliability & you can't do it yoursef...
    Do yourself a favour & only use someone who can...
    Bottom line is... If they haven't done it before... Be honest, they're either still practicing & or full of shit....

    DIY guys...
    Your mantra is "Combination is everything"

    Can you please explain to me how you would go about attaining 150kw ATW?

    And what do you think I'll hit in my JDM B16A?
    - Comp 215, 210, 215, 220
    - CAI
    - ITR TB & IM
    - Ported intake/exhaust
    - Re-welded combustion chambers
    - Skunk2 Stage 1 shafts
    - Skunk2 adjustable gears
    - Jun valves
    - Supertech valve springs
    - Supertech retainers
    - RS*R 4-2-1 header
    - 100cel high-flow cat
    - Kakimoto 60mm cat-back
    - S300 + tune (including ITR injectors, OBD1 dizzy, conversion loom etc)

    Previously made 99.4kw with CAI, header, muffler.

  9. #33
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    91 ED Hatch
    Quote Originally Posted by EM1 View Post
    interesting read but as taken from the article ...."It goes to show you don't need a 'K' to make a lot of 'HP'." But Chris cautions that not everyone should embark on a G23 build. "If you've got the tools and a garage, and know your way around an engine, by all means-go for it," he advises, "But if you're expecting it all to just snap together... better let a pro handle it." Words to live by".

    we're not in the US so if you get a pro to do it parts aren't cheap and so isn't labor.


    like sugested just get good intake, headers and high flow cat + tune, your fujitsubo cat back is fine
    Using that parts guide i could assemble that engine no worries. If you are experienced in assembly, nothing stated there is too much work. Most of the components were oem items readily available from anywhere. Doesnt matter where we are mate.

    Doug: your parts list looks heathy. I reckon you will see at least 15 - 25 kw gain. Once you get the 16s to a certain point, they are pretty much giving all their displacement can. Swap in a 20 block later on... you will see 150kw atw easy
    Last edited by Photonic_Si; 23-09-2010 at 03:57 AM.
    ::Street Level::

  10. #34
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Car:
    dc2r,evo1,evo2
    Quote Originally Posted by TODA AU View Post
    200hp... Actualy it's a walk in the park... But then again, I've done it before... & more than a few times...
    Our power target for next years IPRA U2L engine is 180kw @ the wheels, from a B...

    Best advice...
    If you're after high output & reliability & you can't do it yoursef...
    Do yourself a favour & only use someone who can...
    Bottom line is... If they haven't done it before... Be honest, they're either still practicing & or full of shit....

    DIY guys...
    Your mantra is "Combination is everything"
    what ecu would you be using in these 200hp builds?? how much would toda itb be??

    sorry to hijack

  11. #35
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    91 ED Hatch
    Best option would be a hondata due to the fact that its supported by tuners in Australia. Standalone systems are not really that good for street cars its as simple as that.
    ::Street Level::

  12. #36
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Car:
    dc2r,evo1,evo2
    not much people can tune hondata in melb..

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