I assume you sent me a PM on boost... I'll just answer on here.
You don't NEED the Mugen front bar for the Mugen intake to work. I've been running my Mugen intake with my stock front bar for 3 years, and have NEVER had a problem with it. At one point I actually removed the grill to make more of a airflow for the intake, but noticed no difference.
Basically a quick run down on intakes for the DC5
Injen - Arguably the best intake you can get for the K20. Offers a great noise, and gives noticeable gains in top end power. There are no real problems with this intake. People that have a cry about "hydro lock" are kidding themselves. As has been proven time and time again, you have to drive INTO a lake and let the car run for it to take effect, splashes of water onto the filter do not effect the engine
Mugen - Great intake. The shear size of the panel filter, and the bottom half of the air box is MASSIVE, which is a very good thing as it can hold more air (durr). Again, no problems with this intake... expect for people saying you need to buy the Mugen front bar for it to work

Gruppe M - Again another great intake. Draws air from a cowl at the base of the window, and then feeds air to a pod filter. Again the air box itself is fairly large. Only problem with this intake is that
SOME people seem to have problems with the cowl vibrating... a lot.
So going from Injen to Mugen you'll notice a drop in top end, but this is mainly due to a placebo effect, because you can't hear the Vtec crossover point as loudly, so you don't think you are going as fast.
At the end of the day for a car that is still running stock ECU, you'll loose maybe 2-3kw (which you can't feel with a bum dyno) and the car is going to be quieter... but you'll have a Mugen intake. Which is more important, overall power and noise, or JDM brownie points... I know which one I would choose.
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