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  1. #553
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CU2 Accord Euro
    Hey Kenshinfan1, check around the engine bay, it sounds like they have accidently left a hose disconnected or a cable yo a sensor, which is now either losing vacuum or not getting the correct Reading to the ecu and stalling the car from revving...

  2. #554
    Digging up this old thread.
    My car had to be on a tow truck on Saturday because the clutch master cylinder suddenly started leaking and then had no pressure in it at all within a couple of hours. Couldn't get into any gears and pedal didn't come back up after pressing it down. Had to pay $250 for the tow truck

    Ok... a bit of history.. I had the master cylinder replaced for the first time when car had around 20,000km.. Then, not long after that, around less than another 10,000km it started creaking again, the dealer didn't give it another replacement but lube it and the creak went away for 4-5000km then I use silicon spray regularly every 5k km or so..

    Today at my mechanic's, we took out the old whole master cylinder unit and replaced it with a new one from Honda. Paid another $220 for just the part!
    Here is a photo of the old one and where the problem is.
    The whole unit.

    Remove this clip with the pliers to see the wear inside the push rod.

    The arrow points where the wear is.


    It is very stupid that the whole unit has to be bought. The wear is at the plastic push rod before the seal. It has been bad that made me thinking that my clutch (after market) is the heaviest I have ever driven. I think this is the reason of my premature wear of my old ORC clutch that only lasted 10k kms. (I have been driven 2-3 manual cars before I owned the euro and all of them never had clutch replaced) After we put in the new unit, my clutch just feels a tad heavier than other cars with stock clutch.

    Before it started leaking, there had not been any creaking for about a year... So watch out for this guys..
    あなたは小さい陰茎を持っている?

  3. #555
    TRAVDM Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    BNE, Q
    Car:
    Lots of Hondas
    i had a creaking pedal too kit. just lubed it up and its all sweet now. i hope this doesnt happen to mine.

    maybe just rev match shift in future?
    oh wrd!

  4. #556
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    BB6 ATTS
    You will find that the silicon spray will fix the "creak" temporarily however it can actually do more long term damage... as Silicon breaks down rubber/nylon seals. It's funny you mention the premature clutch wear as it seems common on euro's for clutches to need replacing as early as 80-100,000kms. I haven't Had any trouble with mine, besides noisy compound! I somehow think it's got something to do with how Euro Owners Drive them... Don't forget they are a popular car aimed at older people that aren't really "into driving" of which probably slip them and don't treat them very well...

    The thing that annoys me is that because we purchased the exact same part; who's to say that Honda have re-engineered it and fixed it... The exact same thing may happen again.

    I know the Euro represented good value for money... but the List of VERY "Common Faults" is irritating. I've fixed (myself) EVERY common fault the euro's are known for (except steering rack, that is good) It still is a Honda and although the Engine/Transmission itself is solid, reliable and typical of Honda... the rest of the car doesn't seem up to scratch. ie. Clutch, Lock Actuators, Driveline (Driveshafts), Steering Rack Issues etc.
    Last edited by Phased; 23-10-2010 at 12:19 AM.
    AMSOIL 10w30/Ea013 @ 5k OCI's, AMSOIL MTF Synchromesh, RE002's @ F 40/R 38 PSI; 9.23L/100kms. Suburban(Minimal Freeway).

    Self Tuned (Road). Dyno soon.

  5. #557
    trav, i kinda rev match every time, both up and down shift.

    yep, i agree 100% with Phased. I sprayed mine in December last year (saw my post in the previous page), then the creaking was gone for 5-6 months. However the creak came back about a week ago then I hit it up with some more silicone spray.. until it is fully damaged and leaked.

    I upgraded my clutch from OEM to ORC not because it was gone or there was anything wrong.. The ORC clutch only lasted 10,000 KM.. Reported back here on the forums and people pointed out it might be my driving style.. Though I never play with my clutch for example using it to hold up the hills etc.. The master cylinder was the cause that makes it very very hard to launch the car until now I know 100%. To Compare before and after replacing the whole master cylinder unit (just before it was completely stuffed), I can say it is like triple the stiffness of the pedal.

    Yeah it is very annoying that we have to keep replacing a faulty part for another part that you know will be faulty again in the future... RANT//
    あなたは小さい陰茎を持っている?

  6. #558
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    BB6 ATTS
    Quote Originally Posted by kitbkk View Post
    trav, i kinda rev match every time, both up and down shift.

    yep, i agree 100% with Phased. I sprayed mine in December last year (saw my post in the previous page), then the creaking was gone for 5-6 months. However the creak came back about a week ago then I hit it up with some more silicone spray.. until it is fully damaged and leaked.

    I upgraded my clutch from OEM to ORC not because it was gone or there was anything wrong.. The ORC clutch only lasted 10,000 KM.. Reported back here on the forums and people pointed out it might be my driving style.. Though I never play with my clutch for example using it to hold up the hills etc.. The master cylinder was the cause that makes it very very hard to launch the car until now I know 100%. To Compare before and after replacing the whole master cylinder unit (just before it was completely stuffed), I can say it is like triple the stiffness of the pedal.

    Yeah it is very annoying that we have to keep replacing a faulty part for another part that you know will be faulty again in the future... RANT//
    Clutches designed for racing or hard street work (ie. Cushion/Brass Button, Puck, Twin+ Plate etc.) shouldn't be driven like a normal clutch... otherwise you will be lucky if you get 10,000kms out of it.... They're not designed to be slipped, instead you have to hard release and do kind of a "semi-launch" when you take off, even when your not planning to drive hard at all. I've heard from many that regardless of the way you treat them; Racing clutches (especially ORC/Ogura) don't last very long... Especially when compared to OEM or Standard Replacement.

    Yeah I know, it is VERY annoying to think that even spending $180 on a Master Cylinder... that in a few months (or possibly the next owner) it will just do exactly the same thing.... Damn Honda! Ain't what they used to be!

    Rant(Clutches) return 0;
    Last edited by Phased; 23-10-2010 at 12:21 AM.
    AMSOIL 10w30/Ea013 @ 5k OCI's, AMSOIL MTF Synchromesh, RE002's @ F 40/R 38 PSI; 9.23L/100kms. Suburban(Minimal Freeway).

    Self Tuned (Road). Dyno soon.

  7. #559
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    VIC
    Car:
    CL9 Accord Euro
    Hold on.. I've been spraying mine like every two days with silicon! should I stop?

  8. #560
    why not use Lanox instead of silicon spray? Silicon is known to degrade rubber over time, Lanox is supposedly safe for use on rubber

  9. #561
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Honda Accord Eu
    Quote Originally Posted by kitbkk View Post
    Digging up this old thread.
    My car had to be on a tow truck on Saturday because the clutch master cylinder suddenly started leaking and then had no pressure in it at all within a couple of hours. Couldn't get into any gears and pedal didn't come back up after pressing it down. Had to pay $250 for the tow truck

    Before it started leaking, there had not been any creaking for about a year... So watch out for this guys..

    u have actually put fear of complete failure in me now. Over the last 6 months, I have had its sprayed 3 times. the creak came back the next day. Overall the clutch is really stiff too.

    I think its high time i considered getting RSA :\

    How much was the total cost including labour? I got a qoute few months back, if I remember the total inc labour was around 460$ or so (and they said 1 yr or 20k warranty)

  10. #562
    here is my 2c.
    lube don't do nothing. It stopped mine creaking temporarily, as to whether it is actually bad (as suggested by some above), I can't comment.
    I have had my master cylinder replaced. That fixed it.

    That was 1-1.5 years ago.
    Clutch has now begun creaking again, warranty set to run out in January. Have also had passenger side door actuator fail recently.

    The problem I have is that the creaking has continued even after master cylinder has been replaced. This should have been the be all and end all of the problem....

  11. #563
    Quote Originally Posted by roony View Post
    u have actually put fear of complete failure in me now. Over the last 6 months, I have had its sprayed 3 times. the creak came back the next day. Overall the clutch is really stiff too.

    I think its high time i considered getting RSA :\

    How much was the total cost including labour? I got a qoute few months back, if I remember the total inc labour was around 460$ or so (and they said 1 yr or 20k warranty)
    I had only sprayed it with silicon spray twice or three times too. then it just failed not long after that.. it just depends on your luck i guess if it will completely fail ie the master cylinder will lose its pressure 100% and causing the car to become not drivable.
    The whole master cylinder is $220 from Eastern Honda (VIC) and my mechanic charged me around $120 I think for labour.
    あなたは小さい陰茎を持っている?

  12. #564
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    VIC
    Car:
    CL9 Accord Euro
    Quote Originally Posted by kitbkk View Post
    I had only sprayed it with silicon spray twice or three times too. then it just failed not long after that.. it just depends on your luck i guess if it will completely fail ie the master cylinder will lose its pressure 100% and causing the car to become not drivable.
    The whole master cylinder is $220 from Eastern Honda (VIC) and my mechanic charged me around $120 I think for labour.
    Was that $120 for labour including the clutch fluid as well?

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