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01-12-2010 12:14 PM
#1237
 Originally Posted by Kwangstuhhh
very informative Kwang, thanks!
does anyone know what are the difference in measurement of the actual drops with these springs?
I remember seeing it somewhere in this thread before, but can;t find it now.
still getting over how nice that full Mugen Kit was on the blue CU
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01-12-2010 08:28 PM
#1238
 Originally Posted by Kwangstuhhh
sanyah: I would also like to know where you're sourcing fromI've been meaning to find the Mugen Wing for CU2 but I haven't found it anywhere online (ebay/jdmconcept/jdmyard). Any idea how much the NR Set rims are from your source?
About friggin time fury! Geez, it's been what? 3 months+??
As for the springs: there has been a range of different types of springs that have been used by fellow CU2 drivers. Here are the price comparisons for the 4 brands that are most common for CU2s (ordered by price via eBay):
TEIN: $320.31 USD - about $334.43 AUD (inc. Express Shipping)
Eibach: $332.30USD - about $346.95AUD (inc. Priority Shipping - whatever that is)
SKUNK2: $341.99USD - about $357.06AUD (inc. Standard Shipping)
H&R: $396.05USD - about $413.50AUD (inc. Priority Shipping )
Note: Please correct me if I'm wrong!
I'm not exactly sure what the difference in the brands are though, haven't read into springs that much myself. Hope this helps!
so tein and eibach are they the same drop?
what was the issue u guys had with springs which required wheel realignment?
and SANYUH REPPLYYYYYYYYYY, i want to get those hood scoops
Also, I remembered that Sanyuh had the mugen grill originally didnt you? if u got the mugen front bumper, ud have to take off the mugen grill...which means its lying around somewhere not being put to good use right? or have i confused it with someone else :P
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01-12-2010 09:10 PM
#1239
fury:
my experience is with Eibach pro-kit, once the car is lowered, likely due to the set up and geometry of the suspension, the rear wheels ended up with a negative camber and with a slight in-toeing. The front wheels also had a minor in-toeing issue, but i think that was probably from the driving beforehand 
hard for me to explain what the actual difference are, maybe try google.. hehe
i think the negative camber is not too bad as most race cars have that set up for better grip especially during cornering. However, your tyres will wear out much quicker on the inside and will not last as long.
Intoeing, from what I was told, is a disaster, as that will really make the car unsteady and damage the tyres, so worthwhile aligning your wheels again after running in those newly installed springs.
once i had the car aligned after the springs were in, the car definitely drive much smoother.
guys, please correct me if there is something wrong in what i said.
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01-12-2010 09:23 PM
#1240
 Originally Posted by Kwangstuhhh
sanyah: I would also like to know where you're sourcing fromI've been meaning to find the Mugen Wing for CU2 but I haven't found it anywhere online (ebay/jdmconcept/jdmyard). Any idea how much the NR Set rims are from your source?!
Mugen Wing is here:

with that price range, it would only be on my ride in my dreams
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01-12-2010 10:22 PM
#1241
 Originally Posted by Lemonhead
fury:
my experience is with Eibach pro-kit, once the car is lowered, likely due to the set up and geometry of the suspension, the rear wheels ended up with a negative camber and with a slight in-toeing. The front wheels also had a minor in-toeing issue, but i think that was probably from the driving beforehand
hard for me to explain what the actual difference are, maybe try google.. hehe
i think the negative camber is not too bad as most race cars have that set up for better grip especially during cornering. However, your tyres will wear out much quicker on the inside and will not last as long.
Intoeing, from what I was told, is a disaster, as that will really make the car unsteady and damage the tyres, so worthwhile aligning your wheels again after running in those newly installed springs.
once i had the car aligned after the springs were in, the car definitely drive much smoother.
guys, please correct me if there is something wrong in what i said.
Just to add on to your negative camber, Readings from my alignment done after the pro-kit installation is -2.5 degrees camber at the rear
front has 0 camber
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02-12-2010 08:24 AM
#1242
 Originally Posted by euroRwannabe
Mugen Wing is here:
with that price range, it would only be on my ride in my dreams 
Oh god how did I miss that...and blardy oath that's not cheap is it!!! D:...if it was a couple hundred it might've let it slide but $1.4k?!
 Originally Posted by Lemonhead
very informative Kwang, thanks!
does anyone know what are the difference in measurement of the actual drops with these springs?
I remember seeing it somewhere in this thread before, but can;t find it now.
still getting over how nice that full Mugen Kit was on the blue CU
No worries mate.
 Originally Posted by Lemonhead
fury:
my experience is with Eibach pro-kit, once the car is lowered, likely due to the set up and geometry of the suspension, the rear wheels ended up with a negative camber and with a slight in-toeing. The front wheels also had a minor in-toeing issue, but i think that was probably from the driving beforehand
hard for me to explain what the actual difference are, maybe try google.. hehe
i think the negative camber is not too bad as most race cars have that set up for better grip especially during cornering. However, your tyres will wear out much quicker on the inside and will not last as long.
Intoeing, from what I was told, is a disaster, as that will really make the car unsteady and damage the tyres, so worthwhile aligning your wheels again after running in those newly installed springs.
once i had the car aligned after the springs were in, the car definitely drive much smoother.
guys, please correct me if there is something wrong in what i said.
Cheers for the info -> so you're running Eibach springs?...Does anyone know the exact differences between the 4 sets of springs? It'll be awesome if someone does a comparison! :P
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02-12-2010 10:40 AM
#1243
 Originally Posted by Kwangstuhhh
Oh god how did I miss that...and blardy oath that's not cheap is it!!! D:...if it was a couple hundred it might've let it slide but $1.4k?!
Cheers for the info -> so you're running Eibach springs?...Does anyone know the exact differences between the 4 sets of springs? It'll be awesome if someone does a comparison! :P
+1 to that! i too would like a comparison
And i swear i remember seeing the mugen wing for around $500, no idea where 1.4k came from
Lemonhead, how much does realignment usually cost? if i understood you correctly, you need realignment because the wheels essentially sit at an angle because the springs lower the car at the back thus pushing downwards on the inside. so from behind you car looks like this:
/---\ instead of |---|
is that correct? (yes the vertical lines are the wheels and the dashes are the bottom lip of ur car)
and by 0 camber, do you mean the front wheels had no issue?
either way, i need to have my bloody kit installed first to see if i need to lower it.
No body has any idea of where i can find cheap kit install+paint in sydney?
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02-12-2010 12:55 PM
#1244
regardless of alignment or not, the rear camber will can not be adjusted back to 0 degrees UNLESS you purchase a camber kit to correct the camber. there's just not enough allowance from the stock set up for us to bring the camber back to 0.
Thats the issue im having at the moment as well. but 2.5 degrees is still not too bad if ou dont drive 300kms a day everyday. Whats actually really killing the tyres is the toe in/toe out of the wheel. 
hope this helps
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02-12-2010 01:06 PM
#1245
 Originally Posted by furythree
/---\ instead of |---|
is that correct? (yes the vertical lines are the wheels and the dashes are the bottom lip of ur car)
and by 0 camber, do you mean the front wheels had no issue?
yes, why didn't i think of using symbols...
yes a negative camber in the real wheels is like you diagram, looking from behind the car /----\
in-toeing of the rear is also like the diagram but looking from above the car /----\
the front wheels had little changes , sounds like yungquan had similar findings with his car
got a 4 wheel alignment for $65 at Bob Jane, took a bit longer than usual due to new springs.. they said.
but make you you don;t rush off to align the wheels too quickly after installation of the new springs, as the springs need time to settle in, maybe around 100-200km? at least, and yes during that time the wheels are not going to be wearing so good, but well, cannot get the best of both worlds.
YES.. i would love to see a compariosn btw the different springs too, liek to knwo what the difference in drops are.
for Eibach Pro-Kit springs, the listed drop is 1.6inch front and 1.4inch rear
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02-12-2010 01:44 PM
#1246
Hey guys, hope you dont minde a cl9 guy posting :P. My car is lowered, and also has a negative camber in the real wheels, front is fine. I remember I took it once to pedders to ask them bout a camber kit, they said from memory around 1200-1400$ for the kit.
I then figured, well if the tyres did wear out quicker, by not installing the kit at least I could buy a new set of tyres with the money I save. That was my logic anyway. So far done 10,000km on the new tyres I put in, gonna rotate them and see how they are. On a weekly basis I only drive around on avg 50 or so km (damn u cbd parking). Cheers
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02-12-2010 06:15 PM
#1247
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02-12-2010 06:48 PM
#1248
 Originally Posted by euroRwannabe
TONY! i'd thought i'd give a good friend a hand so here's a little comparison between TEIN, EIBACH and H&R i put together.
Hope it helps for everyone.
Note: I'm not sure if H&R is accurate, gotta have to ask mr. Nesterjester haha.

Aww mate thanks heaps ay. I would rep you but I already did a while ago haha...they won't let me do it again! :P Anyways so the difference is just the drop height ay...I don't know if I want to get them, after hearing all about the camber kit n stuff...sounds like such a hassle and lots of $$...:P...sigh I wish money grew on trees
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