Engine oil guru's - i have a question for you

[cheapdouchebag]

thanks alot guys. its very obvious that there are oil guru's in this thread so its much appreciated!

i just have another question, sure fresh oil of same viscosity will have the same effect on an engine no matter the brand (which i hope im concluding correctly), and the oil will minimize wear either way, however whats the down-low of when the fresh oil becomes as we say 'unfresh' and the oil begins to collect the carbon as it should be. would that create friction?(im theorizing that the answer is yes) therefore there would there be an impact on how effective the oil is to protect engine from wear.

then lets just say i stop reading from hereonwards and go and google up whats the best oil to minimize startup wear. i would probably go off and buy magnatec as their advertised 'protect engine from startup as it creates a film on the engine internals' or something like that.

is there any product, someone can vouch for or is proven that will
-get the right pressure for a little mileaged k24 engine the quickest
-minimal acculumation of the oil 'losing its edge' after thousands of kilometres of oil usage
-allow for the engine to run as close as it can to brand new?

benjamin - no disrespect but i have a feeling your going to jump ASAP and say 'FEO ultra - designed for honda engines so use it etc. etc.' i just thought i would put it out there to see if anything was better than FEO ultra, its my first car that has costed me a bundle so i am VERY anal i admit about it. i want to look after this engine as best as relistically possible

[bennjamin]

benjamin - no disrespect but i have a feeling your going to jump ASAP and say 'FEO ultra - designed for honda engines so use it etc. etc.' i just thought i would put it out there to see if anything was better than FEO ultra, its my first car that has costed me a bundle so i am VERY anal i admit about it. i want to look after this engine as best as relistically possible

No worry mate. I only speak of personal experience ( combined with proper maintenance )
It would help you - to state exactly what your engine setup is ( more than low mileage k24) to avoid us wasting our time guessing and typing patagraphs of info and experience that is obviously wasted on you.

[cheapdouchebag]

No worry mate. I only speak of personal experience ( combined with proper maintenance )
It would help you - to state exactly what your engine setup is ( more than low mileage k24) to avoid us wasting our time guessing and typing patagraphs of info and experience that is obviously wasted on you.

certainly!
This euro was bought second hand from astoria honda came with log books n what not etc. etc. so as beliveable as relisitically possible all servicing had been carried out on time from the same honda dealership since bought stamps on the book prove it (servicing were all done by ferntree gully honda). Theres no modifications whatsoever and ever had been. the car sits soundly at 70xxx kilometres. I am to believe that the car has never been maintained privatley always through a dealership.


aaronng - very informative i think i can draw alot better to what oil to use much appreciated. In my old car the motor wasnt very healthy so i generally changed oil and oil filter on almost a monthly basis. So i think in my situation obtaining a group V oil would not have that much of a negative impact in regards to the ammount of hardyard i have to maintain the euro compared to my previous car.

[aaronng]

aaronng - very informative i think i can draw alot better to what oil to use much appreciated. In my old car the motor wasnt very healthy so i generally changed oil and oil filter on almost a monthly basis. So i think in my situation obtaining a group V oil would not have that much of a negative impact in regards to the ammount of hardyard i have to maintain the euro compared to my previous car.

If you are driving on the street, then a Group V won't be much different to a cheaper Group III in terms of protection. Since I am guessing that you will follow the 6 monthly service interval, then the shorter service life of the Group V won't negatively affect you. In the end it comes down to how much you want to spend. You can save by using a Group III or IV and putting the spare money towards replacing any parts that have worn during the previous 70xxxkm ownership of the car. The car is not just the engine, and for a car of this age, you will be looking at engine mounts, CV boots, suspension bushings, fuel filter and also put a bit in the kitty in case the aircon or the radio shits itself.

[aaronng]

i just have another question, sure fresh oil of same viscosity will have the same effect on an engine no matter the brand (which i hope im concluding correctly), and the oil will minimize wear either way, however whats the down-low of when the fresh oil becomes as we say 'unfresh' and the oil begins to collect the carbon as it should be. would that create friction?(im theorizing that the answer is yes) therefore there would there be an impact on how effective the oil is to protect engine from wear.

There are still differences even with fresh oil of the same viscosity. Some have additives which make the oil stick to metal surfaces even overnight, while others have this ability naturally (Group V). However with regards to your question, as the oil becomes contaminated with carbon deposits, then yes, it can create more friction as there is a higher proportion of particulates in the oil, part of which are smaller than the micron rating of the oil filter and hence still gets circulated around your engine. That is why there are oil change intervals.

then lets just say i stop reading from hereonwards and go and google up whats the best oil to minimize startup wear. i would probably go off and buy magnatec as their advertised 'protect engine from startup as it creates a film on the engine internals' or something like that.

Magnatec has nice cold start properties (for a mineral 10w-40 though), but the oil itself is nothing special, eventually doing what every mineral oil will do when punished too hard under high temperature. You get the oil breaking down and/or forming gum deposits. This is what happens to all oils, just that some are better than others at high temperature/pressure. Personally, I'd rather a Group III 5w-30 such as Castrol Edge over Magnatec 10w-40 anyday.

is there any product, someone can vouch for or is proven that will
-get the right pressure for a little mileaged k24 engine the quickest
-minimal acculumation of the oil 'losing its edge' after thousands of kilometres of oil usage
-allow for the engine to run as close as it can to brand new?

There is no silver bullet. Even the most expensive, temperature resistant, cold protecting oil (Group V like Motul 300V) has the weakness of having to be changed often. You need to choose the best choice for the conditions that you car will be driven under.
Mineral - Cheap, can be found anywhere. Weakness: Oil breaks down under stress and vapour can cause gumming.
Group III - Hydrocracked mineral synthetic - Good dollar to protection ratio. Weakness: Lasts as long as a normal mineral oil.
Group IV - PAO synthetic - Good protection and can do long service intervals because the oil withstands heat and pressure. Weakness: Does not like to stick to metal as good as a Group III, V or mineral oil.
Group V - Ester based synthetic - Good protection, withstands heat and pressure, sticks to metal. Weakness: Expensive and tends to require frequent oil changes (6 months is ok, don't expect it to do 24 months like what a Group IV can do).

benjamin - no disrespect but i have a feeling your going to jump ASAP and say 'FEO ultra - designed for honda engines so use it etc. etc.' i just thought i would put it out there to see if anything was better than FEO ultra, its my first car that has costed me a bundle so i am VERY anal i admit about it. i want to look after this engine as best as relistically possible

We've been down this route for the past 7 years since the Euro has been out (and every other Honda out there). You can pour in the most expensive $150 oil but in the end it won't protect any better than a good $50 oil if your engine is going to be driven on the street where it won't see the stresses like an engine on a race track. That's why for 99% of street driven stock Hondas, the answer is usually FEO (or essentially 10w-30).

My pattern is the following:
Street: Edge 5w-30 (Group III) $44 when there is 20% off sale. Even tested this on track before with no issues.
Track: Motul 8100 xcess 5w-40 or Edge 0w-40 or Elf 0w-40 (Group IV), around $65 when on 20% off.

Any FYI, regular FEO is a mineral oil, while FEO Ultra is a Group III hydrocracked synthetic. So no qualms using FEO Ultra for street.

[Bludger]

My pattern is the following:
Street: Edge 5w-30 (Group III) $44 when there is 20% off sale. Even tested this on track before with no issues.
Track: Motul 8100 xcess 5w-40 or Edge 0w-40 or Elf 0w-40 (Group IV), around $65 when on 20% off.

Nice information. appreciated.

Did you just say that Edge 0w-40 is a group IV?

Do you know what Edge 10w-60 is?

[aaronng]

Nice information. appreciated.

Did you just say that Edge 0w-40 is a group IV?

Do you know what Edge 10w-60 is?

Edge 10w-60 is a Group IV, same as the 0w-40.