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Thread: s2000 diff

  1. #1

    s2000 diff

    Hi guys,
    I have recently bought a s2000.. and after driving it for a couple of months, i think i might potentially have something wrong with my diff... The noise is a 'knock/clunk' which dosnt happen all the time, only when i let my clutch out relatively quickly and accelerate.. it sounds like when the clutch actually grips on to the rear shafts there is something loose coming from the rear.. if anyone has had this issue, please give me some advice. thanks

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    MY01' S2000
    Its good to see another s2000 owner around and im guessing you havent done much research on this sort of problem before you posted your question. In a nut shell, what tends to happen with s2000 diff's is that the crown and pinion decide to shit themselves which causes the knock/clunk. This tends to occur when you launch the car hard off a stop or doing burnouts can allow this to happen, There are other things that the problem could be but just by going what your saying, this would be my best answer atm. In regards to getting it fixed its costly to get genuine parts for genuine ratio's, but what most people tend to do is change the ratio to 4.44 which allows the car to rev higher although allows the car to stay in vtec when changing gears at high rpm.

    Goodluck and hopefully this info was helpfull and maybe some others might be able to shine more light on this

  3. #3
    Thankyou very much! I havnt done burnouts in it... but sometimes i have taken of relatively quickly at times! How much would this be approximately to fix? would it be cheaper just getting a new diff?

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    west smeobourne
    Car:
    AP1 S13
    Changing to a 4.44 does not allow the car to rev higher it still redlines at 9200rpm and staying in vtec is just the same. 4.44 FD's allow the car to rev faster to redline it cuts the gears shorter so insted of hitting 9000 rpm @ APROX 60ish km/h in 1st gear it will be reduced to say about 55km/h and so on.

    Mateusz1993 fixing your diff will depend on what is actually broken if it is the diff that is. Do a search in this forum at the top right there is a search bar, there's plenty of topics coving this and you will get quite a good read about what tends to break how much it cost locally etc. etc.
    FYS

    My fake shit rocks!
    Winton 1:35.4
    Wakefield 1:07.87

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    MY01' S2000
    Yeah vyet your right but doesn't it rev higher say at 100 km/h on the highway? Instead of sitting at just under 3500 rpm it sits closer to 4000? Or am I thinking of something else?

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    west smeobourne
    Car:
    AP1 S13
    Yea that's because the gears are shorter so like the explanation I did of the first gear instead of 9000rpm at 60km/h it would be 900rpm at 50km/h and so on..
    So it dosen't technically "rev higher"
    Last edited by vyets; 04-01-2011 at 08:11 AM.
    FYS

    My fake shit rocks!
    Winton 1:35.4
    Wakefield 1:07.87

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Car:
    Accord euro 2003 MT
    I havent had a diff break on me as yet personally but I have known people who have had to buy new crown and pinions... If you go to honda they wont rebuild it for you. They will replace the whole diff at a cost of around 5K depending on which dealer u go to. Getting a rebuild from a diff specialist in melb (Assuming only crown and pinion) will cost u anywhere from 1500-2500 bucks. I cant confirm though if this is using original honda parts or not. I would say it porbably is.

    The cost of rebuilt would most likely go up fairly quick if you also damaged the inner casing or the Torsen LSD unit itself. If this is the case u may be better off with a whole new unit. (this is worst case scenario though). Like has been said before most people only need new crown and pinion.
    Last edited by pilotb777_300; 04-01-2011 at 09:44 AM.

  8. #8
    thanks heaps guys! really appreciate it... oh i was thinking could i possibly get a diff from the wreckers? to save abit of money? beacause i just use it as a cruise car and not intending of racing or anything... have already lost my license. lol

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Car:
    Accord euro 2003 MT
    You can get a diff from the wreckers. However it will be you and your luck as to what you end up with. You may get something cheap which turns out to be in good condition or u may end up with another wrecked diff. I'd personally just spend the extra money and go for the rebuilt option. at least you know what your getting then.

    On a side note though... there may be nothing wrong with your diff. click/clunk noises from the rear end which come and go under certain load conditions can also be faulty drive shafts. Get the car checked out by a mechanic first before assuming the worst.

    good luck !

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    west smeobourne
    Car:
    AP1 S13
    ^^^ what he said!
    FYS

    My fake shit rocks!
    Winton 1:35.4
    Wakefield 1:07.87

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Melbourne/Gold Coast
    Car:
    1999 s2000
    Quote Originally Posted by Mateusz1993 View Post
    thanks heaps guys! really appreciate it... oh i was thinking could i possibly get a diff from the wreckers? to save abit of money? beacause i just use it as a cruise car and not intending of racing or anything... have already lost my license. lol
    you still driving around with a lost license??? dunno why you would "lol" at that, that's just stupid.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by ncmx5 View Post
    you still driving around with a lost license??? dunno why you would "lol" at that, that's just stupid.
    nah m8! not driving... but my dad drives it sometimes.. and he has heard the noise so he told me!

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