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I'm not saying it's me vs the car mechanics of the world, I know exactly where you're coming from - my post said I tightened mine by hand the other week.
All I'm saying - and something not mentioned in the posts - is that after you take it for it's first run check the oil filter again as they can, as mine did, loosen up. A quick nip up with the cap tool may just put your mind at rest a little more that's all
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for sure piece of mind. Problem here tho is the internet and how its interpreted......
"hand tight" to you sounds like alittle bit tight / finger tight.
To me and most its as I mentioned earlier - as much as possible by hand !
but yes better safe than sorry. BE CAREFUL tightening a oil filter after a drive - it will be HOT and also you can easily thread it / over tighten as the metal has softened with heat. I advise to wait till the car is cool again , clean the oil filter and retighten / nip up slightly if need be
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 Originally Posted by bennjamin
It is around 25nm torque spec - this is measurable by only a small torque wrench.
I swear I recently saw 10nm on a honda oil filter. I can confirm when I'm in the garage next
Last edited by markismaximus; 07-01-2011 at 08:13 AM.
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Originally Posted by markismaximus
I swear I recently saw 10nm on a honda oil filter. I can confirm when I'm in the garage next
I actually think HONDA recommends 12NM. But i just pulled off a number off google image search for a generic oil filter ! Can you image capture something from a workshop manual ?
EDIT here you go - 10-14NM
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cool, so I'm not going insane. I just checked 2 FSMs (EG-EJ) and they both say 22nm.
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By hand with all your might is way too tight.
I generally tighten by hand and can undo it by hand when the time comes to change it.
takes a bit of effort but it comes off by hand.
Never had problems with leaks.
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Originally Posted by Alvis
well if you do that, you better make sure you tighten it after the first run because I can guarantee you it will loosen up - happened to me last week. Search the net for stories on people who have blown engines because their oil filters have come off.
Surely a couple of turns with an oil cap tool isn't going to hurt anyone and gives you peace of mind
Mate, I've never had to make sure after the first run.
You can not guarantee it will loosen up.
Happening to you doesn't mean it's gonna happen to others, especially when those others do it right, first time every time.
Sure there are many people with blown engines because the oil filter has come off. Those individuals are n00bs.
a couple of turns with the "Removal" tool to tighten it is totally unnecessary, It won't give me peace of mind, it will give me a headache from thinking about how hard its going to be when time comes to take it off.
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everyone has different ways of tightening, me for one, i use the oil filter tool to tighten, tight enough so i can atleast take it off later on with ease...using the same tool lol
Btw, stuff what honda says about buying the tool to take it out, waste of $$$, when the generic tools do same job
iev heard of only one such story when the filter has blown off, this was on a 180sx... as all 3 generation of the nissan SR20 are different thus need a different filter, he used the 200sx oil filter instead of the 180sx filter, an blew off, oil went all over the road, pays to know what exact engine ur car has
An also oil tech has come along way, so odds are feo oils aint all that, which is why i always stick to other oils, vavoline, motul, mobile etc
Last edited by mugen_ctr; 07-01-2011 at 08:01 PM.
I <3 BOOST! D16+T SOHC
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at honda weve been using 15w40 at the dealership for EK's so you might want to consider going to a non genuine semi-synthetic, itll be less likely to burn oil and itll protect your engine more, especially considering the high k's youve clocked on it
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Higher weight oils dont protect older engines more. They reduce the amount you leak and burn, but it doesnt do its job any better. Worse if anything.
All you want is fluid as possible at start up and the correct weight at operating temp to have your oil pressure where it should be.
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wow, this thread really filled up with idiots talking shit.
ive never EVER used a filter tool to tighten. Thats so fucking retarded, i want to face palm myself so hard, i rip my brain out.
Even on oil filters it says tighten until the seal/gasket contacts the block, then another 3/4 turn.
Ive always done this, ive never had problems with oil leaks, and ive always been able to take the filter off by hand when it comes time to change it.
The gasket is there to stop the oil leaking out when cold, and when its hot, the metal expands enough to seal it even further.
The first time i changed the oil on my old car, i knew the retard had over tightened the filter with a tool.
I couldnt get it off with a removal tool. tried the old screwdriver thru the filter trick, all i managed to do was rip the filter apart.
due to the filter being under the headers, and realy awkward to get to, i had to take apart the entire front of the car, and take the radiator out so i could get to it, and i literally had to pull the filter apart, and then use a set of vice grips to undo the thread.
Thats how overtightening a filter can fuck your day right up.
With regards to oil, the more you spend, the better it is.
You can get a good quality semi syn for about 30-40 for 5l, and then from about 50 bucks up for a fully syn.
Id recomend trying Penrite. Its an aussie oil company, and theyve got ties to all sorts of racing in aus.
They dont just make engine oil, theyve got a full range of synthetic gearbox/diff oils and synthetic brake fluid.
to see all of my build, checkout
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And true, very good point to do it when it's cold - I checked mine the next morning and I could almost take mine off with only my fingers - but checked it again this morning - this thread got me thinking again - and it was still nice and tight 
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