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  1. #13
    how long does a shifter bushing usually last? The ones by heel&toe looks interesting to me.

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Car:
    Blown NHBP CL9
    depends on driver style/milage/climate etc
    usually around +60k's
    visual inspection will tell you if they need replacing, grab the linkage & if it moves around a fair bit in the bush then there pretty much due
    V T E C h n i q u e
    Since 2001
    OG Member #3

  3. #15
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Car:
    Accord Euro Lux 6sp
    Ok, I've changed the shifter bushes and it made a difference to the shift feel but it doesn't fix the issue of the 1st>Neutral shift.

    What I have noticed is that it is temperature sensitive. It's worst when it's cold and at colder temperatures. Once up to temperature or when the ambient temperature is warm it's not as bad. I am starting to think it could either be the clutch or the MTF. But I am using original Honda MTF and flushed and bled the clutch. Not sure where else to look.

    Any ideas?

  4. #16
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by kksh View Post
    Ok, I've changed the shifter bushes and it made a difference to the shift feel but it doesn't fix the issue of the 1st>Neutral shift.

    What I have noticed is that it is temperature sensitive. It's worst when it's cold and at colder temperatures. Once up to temperature or when the ambient temperature is warm it's not as bad. I am starting to think it could either be the clutch or the MTF. But I am using original Honda MTF and flushed and bled the clutch. Not sure where else to look.

    Any ideas?
    Is your clutch engagement point at the middle or the bottom of the clutch pedal travel? If it is near the bottom, then there might be an air bubble in the clutch fluid line. If that is the case, bleed it more.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  5. #17
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Car:
    Accord Euro Lux 6sp
    Ok, I did a clutch bleed and it made it much better. But then after about 4-5 days it returned. I thought I didn't bleed it properly so I did it again making sure I flushed the whole system entirely and I made sure the whole thing was properly bleed. Then I also adjusted the clutch to bring i up a notch by turning the rod one full rotation. That made it better for another 4-5 days and now it's back. It's like the clutch isn't fully engaged when the "hard to shift" out thing occurs. What's next?

  6. #18
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Car:
    Accord Euro Lux 6sp
    I have a feeling it might be the clutch master cylinder. Might as well change it and see how it goes. Apart from a Honda Dealer any idea where I can get it?

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Accord Euro CL9
    I don't think it's the clutch if it's only for 1st. But yeah, the dealer might have an idea. I would assume it's the synco's for 1st itself.

  8. #20
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    check for leaks, or might just be driver habit.....

  9. #21
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Car:
    Accord Euro Lux 6sp
    yeah at first it doesn't seem like the clutch itself but what I found was that the engagement point was quite low. I adjusted it via the adjustment screw behind the pedal. What I found was that once I turned the adjustment screw clockwise to lift the engagement point it almost went away completely. Then it would return gradually within a week or so. I somehow feel like the leak is inside the cylinder itself.

    I was wondering if the TSX clutch cylinders might be compatible. It seems like I can get a set posted from the US for around $200.

  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    06 Euro luxury manual
    Might be due for a MTF oil change

  11. #23
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Car:
    Accord Euro Lux 6sp
    I've changed the MTF with Honda MTF prior to it happening. I tried changing it to a thicker non-Honda one to see if it makes a difference but it just makes the shifting a bit stiffer. So I changed it back to Honda MTF.

    The feeling is like the clutch is isn't fully depressed and I have to use force to take it out of 1st. Hence it doesn't feel like it's sliding out nicely but being yanked out. Counterintuitively, if I don't depress the clutch fully it improves but it only lasts for like a week. So whenever the clutch is adjusted either forwards or backwards it works better for a week or so then I will need to adjust it to the opposite direction to make it better.

    I somehow get a feeling that the clutch auto-adjust thing is bring it back to its default position. I took it to a Honda dealer and with just driving it for 100m they said the pressure plate might be causing it and wanted the clutch pressure plate and disc because the clutch bite point was quite low.

    There is no clutch slip whatsoever and there isn't any leaks.

  12. #24
    Hi, sorry to bump such an old thread but I am experiencing the exact problems like the OP.

    When changing from 1st to 2nd it feels like I am yanking the stick out of gear without the clutch pedal fully depressed (it is fully depressed BTW). So from 1st to neutral you get an almost popping sensation. It doesn't happen all the time, today it happened a lot so the drive to work was horrible. The problem also seems to occur more often when turning around a corner. I am changing revs at about 2500-3000rpm, so even at lowish revs the problem occurs.

    Did anyone mange to find a solution to this problem? Ive changed clutch, slave cylinder, bleed numerous times, added shifter bushings, even adjusted the pushrod in the master cylinder but nothing has helped.

    Thanks

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