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  1. #37
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Darwin
    Car:
    Lexus IS-F
    Quote Originally Posted by ricsvtr View Post
    Ah ic
    More of a problem on diesels, but still a big issue on all modern engines.
    Honda Accord Euro CU2 / Lexus IS-F

  2. #38
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by tony1234 View Post
    There's no way i'd leave engine oil in my car for longer than 6mths.10K.BTW i use Castrol Edge 0W-40 which is a group IV isn't it Aaron?
    Yup, the 0W-40 is the Group IV.

    Quote Originally Posted by ricsvtr View Post
    Just wondering how it would gum the injectors?
    Oil vapour coming from the crankcase through the PCV into the intake manifold where the vapour comes into contact with the injector and then deposits and clogs the nozzle. Happened on our Astra and had to call NRMA to help fix it up.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  3. #39
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Car:
    Civic 08 Vti-L
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    Oil vapour coming from the crankcase through the PCV into the intake manifold where the vapour comes into contact with the injector and then deposits and clogs the nozzle.
    Are you guys mechanics, how you know these terms? I must be a complete noob to cars.

    Astra's apparently had a reputation for being unreliable.

  4. #40
    Ok i've read this entire thread and still have no clue as to what oil i should use on my next service. I really need some recommendations. What i picked up so far from the thread is Castrol Edge 5-30 but my has done 140,000k's. Would that be ok?

  5. #41
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Honda Accord Eu
    From reading should be k if ur car has been maintained regularily. On really older cars with higher mileage i guess should use thicker oiln I'm using the same and its been fine. Just ticked over the 100 k mark.

  6. #42
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Quote Originally Posted by roony View Post
    From reading should be k if ur car has been maintained regularily. On really older cars with higher mileage i guess should use thicker oiln I'm using the same and its been fine. Just ticked over the 100 k mark.
    Manual doesnt allow anything over Xw-40 weight, so stick below that.


    My cars done 125k and I've used full synthetic 5w-30 Mobil 1 extended performance and it was really good. Now I'm running mobil 1 0w-40 (gold bottle), both on extended drain interval.

    Our euro loves synthetic.

    Ps: castrol edge no longer exist, it's now edge Titanium formula, it's a lot more expansive now, reason people used castrol edge before is because its really cheap when on special.


    If you are really paranoid, Mobil one does have a "high milage formula" in 5w-40. Check it out, it's American import, a shop in Melbourne sells them.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  7. #43
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    CU2 Lux
    Is there a minimum Kms before the engine can take synthetic?
    I always have my civic serviced by the dealer and never had any issue but some extra $$$.
    Now with my euro, I'm considering on going to a local mechanic to save some money.
    What does extended drain interval means? Can you actually ask the mechanic at the dealer not to change the oil if you're using a good quality synthetic oil?

  8. #44
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Quote Originally Posted by pitiek View Post
    Is there a minimum Kms before the engine can take synthetic?
    I always have my civic serviced by the dealer and never had any issue but some extra $$$.
    Now with my euro, I'm considering on going to a local mechanic to save some money.
    What does extended drain interval means? Can you actually ask the mechanic at the dealer not to change the oil if you're using a good quality synthetic oil?
    No, you can go full syn as soon as the 2nd oil change.

    When I was in Brisbane I used Hondacare @ summer park, whiche were decent.

    Extended drain interval bascially means long oil change interval, I did a full 10k/12mth (well, 11 really) on my previous change using Mobil One Extended Performance, the oil could've lasted a lot longer tho (15k/18th probably)

    Sure as hell better than the 6mth interval Honda wants you to fork out.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  9. #45
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by BLKWLF View Post
    Ok i've read this entire thread and still have no clue as to what oil i should use on my next service. I really need some recommendations. What i picked up so far from the thread is Castrol Edge 5-30 but my has done 140,000k's. Would that be ok?
    It will be just fine. Edge 5w-30 is a good oil for the money when it is being sold at under $50 for 5L.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  10. #46
    Ah ok. Any semi-synthetic oils good for the euro? Best of both worlds isn't it?

  11. #47
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2 Squared
    Do NOT run a thicker grade viscosity just because someone said so after you hit more than 100,000km...

    Engines and their requirement for a certain grade of oil most definately doesn't work that way. The engine was designed to operate around a certain oil pressure to attain flow, ie temperature control and lubrication while still protecting the rotating and reciprocating parts..By increasing the pressure you will decrease the first two and may start to do more damage than good...

    Just stick to the recommended viscosity please...

    If you really want to be anal with the type of oil to run, go get an oil pressure gauge, check what the Honda specification is for oil pressure at a given RPM and change the grades until you find which best suits that requirement.

  12. #48
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Quote Originally Posted by BLKWLF View Post
    Ah ok. Any semi-synthetic oils good for the euro? Best of both worlds isn't it?
    No... Semi-syn doesn't mean its a 50/50 mix... Some of them are like 90 Dino, 10 syn mix...and it's not cheap anyhow.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

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