[CL9] Is Fully Synthetic bad for an Euro?

[aaronng]

Ah ok. Any semi-synthetic oils good for the euro? Best of both worlds isn't it?

No, a semi-synthetic is a mineral oil with under 10% of synthetic additives added. It is not the best of both worlds, but actually a better than mineral but worse than full synthetic.

In terms of ranking based on protection, price.
Mineral < Semi-synthetic < Group III synthetic (Edge 5w-30) < Group IV synthetic (Edge 0w-40, Motul 8100, Elf synthetic < Group V synthetic (Motul 300V, Royal purple)

Advantages:
Mineral: Cheap, leaves a thin film on metal. Breaks down quickly under hard conditions.
Semi-synthetic: Slightly more expensive, protects slightly better than full mineral, leaves a thin film on metal. Breaks down quickly under hard conditions.
Group III: Medium priced, good protection, leaves a thin film on metal. Breaks down quickly under hard conditions, sometimes price is very high, higher than Group IV!
Group IV: Expensive, good protection, withstands hard conditions. Does not leave thin film on metal, priced similar to Group III or can be higher.
Group V: Super expensive, excellent protection, leaves a thin film on metal. Breaks down quickly over time, does not last as long as Group IV. Should be used with regular service intervals (6-12 months) and not extended (18-24 months)

The ones that I have found to be good both on road and on track:

Edge 5w-30: Good when price is under $50. Great protection for street use. When run on track, found to become rougher after 60 minute of hard track time.

Edge 0w-40: Good when 20% off sale is on. Easy to find. Great protection on street and track. Engine was still running smooth after 90 minutes of hard track time.

Motul 8100 X-cess 5w-40: Similar to Edge 0w-40 but engine feels smoother and quieter at idle. Haven't used this oil on track.

Elf Excellium GP 5w-40: Similar to Motul 8100 Xcess. Can be found at Autobarn for $75ish which brings it down to $60 during 20% off sale.

If you can find any Group IV for $60-65 or less, then it is a good buy. For Group III, I'd pay $50 or under. Semi-synthetic it's $40 or under and for pure mineral, I'd pay no more than $35.

[Fredoops]

Imma go Amsoil 5w-30 next. After the Mobil1 0w-40 is due for replacement.

PS, with the new 'titanium' formula, edge had gone upmarket and it's now similar priced as mobil1

[roony]

Imma go Amsoil 5w-30 next. After the Mobil1 0w-40 is due for replacement.

PS, with the new 'titanium' formula, edge had gone upmarket and it's now similar priced as mobil1

no wonder i couldnt find any yest at the superhcheap auto store. Time to hunt down some reduced group iv oils. I never clock up 10k in a year, so safe to still change at longer intervals as u did, as in a year? No issues with the oil filter? thanks

[Fredoops]

no wonder i couldnt find any yest at the superhcheap auto store. Time to hunt down some reduced group iv oils. I never clock up 10k in a year, so safe to still change at longer intervals as u did, as in a year? No issues with the oil filter? thanks

I got long service filter (Mobil1 extended performance) with double the normal capacity

[roony]

I got long service filter (Mobil1 extended performance) with double the normal capacity

ah cool. Thanks

[Fredoops]

Do NOT run a thicker grade viscosity just because someone said so after you hit more than 100,000km...

Engines and their requirement for a certain grade of oil most definately doesn't work that way. The engine was designed to operate around a certain oil pressure to attain flow, ie temperature control and lubrication while still protecting the rotating and reciprocating parts..By increasing the pressure you will decrease the first two and may start to do more damage than good...

Just stick to the recommended viscosity please...

If you really want to be anal with the type of oil to run, go get an oil pressure gauge, check what the Honda specification is for oil pressure at a given RPM and change the grades until you find which best suits that requirement.

Agreed, having thicker oil in hope of better protection is like wearing 2 condoms.... It doesn't work that way... And you might just hurt yourself.

It's the quality of the base oil and additive package that makes the difference.

[BLKWLF]

Thanks a lot aaronng. The exact details i needed too!

[opilot87]

I got long service filter (Mobil1 extended performance) with double the normal capacity

Where did you get these from fredroops? Wouldn't mind picking some up myself

Ollie

[Fredoops]

Where did you get these from fredroops? Wouldn't mind picking some up myself

Ollie

Gllubricants.com or something, there's a guy in Sydney sells them. 20 bucks each.

[roony]

Just went browsing today at SCA/autobarn. Saw the *new* titanium 5w30 for 75$. The motul 5w40 8100 was 77$. No brainer there if u were taking it at those prices. I saw also motul 5w30 8100 eco-nergy at 88$. Anyone have any experience with this?

[Fredoops]

Just went browsing today at SCA/autobarn. Saw the *new* titanium 5w30 for 75$. The motul 5w40 8100 was 77$. No brainer there if u were taking it at those prices. I saw also motul 5w30 8100 eco-nergy at 88$. Anyone have any experience with this?

all of those "Eco" or "Fuel Saving" engine oil claims are basically any engine oil with anti-friction treatment/addictives

The 4w-30 is already thinner than 5-w40, so there's already possible fuel savings there

[roony]

oh k, understood.ill probably stick the 5w40 and try to source it cheaper elsewhere. Want to try the motul.