Hmm, went for a drive to work today and i am thinking the Sumitomo's may of been a mistake. They appear to be louder then the RE040's on course bitumen but whats worse is something is weird with the handling.
Whenever i drive over bumps or potholes (they are everywhere in SA) it feels like the back steps out or something, or rather the car feels like it looses it's balance on the road. Also the noise from running over potholes etc seems to be much more pronounced now.
They did do a full wheel alignment so perhaps they stuffed this up but it certainly doesn't feel like the same car as it was with the RE040's on.
Honda - The power of dreams? More like the power of nightmares!
Hmm, went for a drive to work today and i am thinking the Sumitomo's may of been a mistake. They appear to be louder then the RE040's on course bitumen but whats worse is something is weird with the handling.
Whenever i drive over bumps or potholes (they are everywhere in SA) it feels like the back steps out or something, or rather the car feels like it looses it's balance on the road. Also the noise from running over potholes etc seems to be much more pronounced now.
They did do a full wheel alignment so perhaps they stuffed this up but it certainly doesn't feel like the same car as it was with the RE040's on.
Sounds to me like it's an alignment issue.Did you get a 4 wheel alignment?If so then i'd get them to check the rear toe.PM aaronng.He has some settings he can give you to take when you go back to get the alignment checked.As for the tyres being noisy on course bitumen my Continentals also tend to be that way as well.As for bumps and potholes don't get me started on that!!Come to Sydney and i can show you some real shit sections of road.
Replied your PM. Could you also post up the alignment settings that they used when they did your 4-wheel alignment? They should have given you a printout with the settings they used.
Unfortunatley they didn't provide a printout - i thought that was weird too. I had to go back there to have them straighten up my steering wheel as it was pointing to 1 o'clock on a straight road. By the sounds they just have no idea what they are doing or the calibration of their machine is just way out.
Honda - The power of dreams? More like the power of nightmares!
Unfortunatley they didn't provide a printout - i thought that was weird too. I had to go back there to have them straighten up my steering wheel as it was pointing to 1 o'clock on a straight road. By the sounds they just have no idea what they are doing or the calibration of their machine is just way out.
The wheel pointing to 1 o'clock means they adjusted for total toe only but not for individual toe. On my specs, I ask for -0.5mm toe out on each side. So they center the wheel and do each side to get it within my setting. But for most places, the computer would tell them "-1.0mm total toe out" which is the same as my setting but does not tell how much on each side. So they can do -0.9mm on the left and -0.1mm on the right and it will still be the correct alignment (add left and right up and you get -1.0mm) but my steering wheel would point to the right to drive straight like in your case.
Next time before the alignment is carried out, let them know that you want a printout. If you know what settings you want, let them know as well before they put the car up.
The wheel pointing to 1 o'clock means they adjusted for total toe only but not for individual toe. On my specs, I ask for -0.5mm toe out on each side. So they center the wheel and do each side to get it within my setting. But for most places, the computer would tell them "-1.0mm total toe out" which is the same as my setting but does not tell how much on each side. So they can do -0.9mm on the left and -0.1mm on the right and it will still be the correct alignment (add left and right up and you get -1.0mm) but my steering wheel would point to the right to drive straight like in your case.
Next time before the alignment is carried out, let them know that you want a printout. If you know what settings you want, let them know as well before they put the car up.
Aaron please post here or PM me the settings too as i need a wheel alignment soon.
Well my suspicions about my Euro driving strangley were indeed correct.
I returned from my holiday interstate (hot chicks at St Kilda beach too) and took the car to BTC (as per Aaron's suggestion) and they could see that the rear wheels were way out of alignment when it was sitting on the ground in the carpark.
Adjustments that were incorrect.
Front Axle - (Total Toe)
Was -7.8mm Now +2.0mm (Left was -3.5mm Right was -4.3mm)
Rear Axle - (Total Toe)
Was +13.2mm Now +2.3mm (Left was +8.0mm Right was +5.2mm)
Camber & Castor was OK on front but camber was out a little on the back RHS.
It certainly drives much better now. I really wonder where some of these tyre places find their wheel aligners. They truly stuffed mine up twofold.
Honda - The power of dreams? More like the power of nightmares!
What brand of tyre do the CU2 Euros come with, OEM, in Oz?
Mine came with Bridgestone Turanza's and I've seen a few with Michelin's and perhaps other makes as well, at the dealership. makes me wonder if there is a standard, or just whatevers on hand
Can the B'stones be inflated safely to over 38Psi?
I keep mine at 35Psi, because the car came with the tyres at that pressure.
Dropped it for maybe 1 tank, to 32psi, with terrible results - handling, mileage overall feel, so back up to 35 it went. Never considered taking it up higher.
Originally Posted by The X Man
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