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  1. #49
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by Honda View Post
    Such a tough task of installing a system! Running down on the things I need to do.
    - Take down both doors trims, cut the plastic basket out
    - Take out both fenders and possibly front bumper to access the plugs + cut it correctly and carefully
    - Strip out the interior to run the cables on both sides
    - Take out back seats to run the cables
    - Take the whole front dash thing out and hook up the cables ( BY THE WAY, how do you hook up the remote cable)
    - Crawl around to find a grommet? To feed power cable-
    - OMG it just keeps adding on...
    yeh man theres a bit to do but after you done a few stereos its gets alot easier, id offer to give you a hand but your a bit far away iirc. you dont need to completely remove the dash, you only need to remove the centre console bit, if you follow my led conversion DIY up to the headunit removing part and ignoreing the cluster removing parts it will show you how to remove the parts you need to.

    the remote cable connects from the back of the headunits harness to a small gauge wire that runs to the remote terminal on your amp, i usualy run this wire next to my power cable.

    if you have trouble finding a grommet i can take a pic of where i ran mine.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  2. #50
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    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by Honda View Post
    Is it possible to remove the plug with the door in place?
    I couldnt but if you have small hands you might be able to, i had to pull the door off then unclip the plug, if you undo that door stopper you can open the door more and see if you can get in there and unclip it.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  3. #51
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    EK1
    Quote Originally Posted by TbM View Post
    yeh man theres a bit to do but after you done a few stereos its gets alot easier, id offer to give you a hand but your a bit far away iirc. you dont need to completely remove the dash, you only need to remove the centre console bit, if you follow my led conversion DIY up to the headunit removing part and ignoreing the cluster removing parts it will show you how to remove the parts you need to.

    the remote cable connects from the back of the headunits harness to a small gauge wire that runs to the remote terminal on your amp, i usualy run this wire next to my power cable.

    if you have trouble finding a grommet i can take a pic of where i ran mine.
    Yes! I'm from NSW aha. ROAD TRIP!!

    Do you have a link to it? I've tried searching but no match.
    Could you explain more about the remote cable on the headunit side? Do I have to cut a cable + solder (which colour if so)? Or should there be a remote terminal on the HU that I can plug into?
    I saw some youtube video where some guy connected it to the fuse of the radio lol

    I think there is a grommet behind the battery but don't want to disassemble everything yet until my amp kit comes. Did you use a grommet with existing cables?

  4. #52
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    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by Honda View Post
    Yes! I'm from NSW aha. ROAD TRIP!!

    Do you have a link to it? I've tried searching but no match.
    Could you explain more about the remote cable on the headunit side? Do I have to cut a cable + solder (which colour if so)? Or should there be a remote terminal on the HU that I can plug into?
    I saw some youtube video where some guy connected it to the fuse of the radio lol

    I think there is a grommet behind the battery but don't want to disassemble everything yet until my amp kit comes. Did you use a grommet with existing cables?
    ill pm you a link when I finish work.

    Yeh you have to solder the remote wire, should be blue wire on most aftermarket headunits.

    I used that grommet near the battery, I couldn't use a grommet with cables as I'm using 0 gauge so it wouldn't fit with other wires. ill add a pic when I'm home so you can see.


    Edit: pic added, its the grommet just below the battery(black thing in pic)

    Last edited by TbM; 16-09-2012 at 05:34 AM.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  5. #53
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    EK1
    Awesome! I think I've spotted that one before

    I was cutting out the plastic door trim yesterday and realised that I need to cut out the screw holes in order to fit in the speakers. I remember you quoting IIRC that you shouldn't cut out the screw holes because that is what mounts the door trim to the metal door (so it doesn't rattle) and then suggested to use the factory screw holes to mount the spacers but I think I ran into a issue there.



    I need to cut the green area in order to fit the speakers in but didn't want to go ahead as it will mean that the 3 screw holes will be gone (black circle).

    I think this will be OK as the spacer will hold the speaker and not the (black circle) anymore.

    But I don't think its possible to do:
    door trim (bigger uncoloured hole) --> spacer --> factory holes.

    I think I would have to do:
    spacer --> drill into metal door
    AND
    door trim --> factory hole as normal

    By the way, the spacers I purchased were:
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-1-2-6-5...item231e84b123

    I hope I'm making sense!

    EDIT/UPDATE:
    I couldn't find a way around not removing the green side, so byebye green circle + screw things! I got a feeling my spacer that I bought won't be able to fit due to the big driver thing.

    My temporary installment! I'll be cutting it off again if my spacer are the right size + enough depth and mount it on the metal. (currently temporarily mounted to the door, AT LAST! WOOOOOOO)



    Amp kit + spacer should be received early this week.

    Amp is probably going to come either late this week or early next week.

    So excited!

    Issue for the day:
    - Unable to undo one of the screw behind the door handle, so unable to take the door trim out on the other side. Had to go with extraction kit as last resort-
    - I've tried to drill a hole and use an extacror kit but only good results were broken drill bits lol (i think i need the strong drill bits made for metal). I'll be bringing it to a place tomorrow as they have the right tools to do it. Otherwise, if they cant remove it- I'll be drilling the whole head off.
    Last edited by Honda; 17-09-2012 at 01:40 PM.

  6. #54
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    western sydney
    Car:
    2010 cu2 euro
    which amp?

  7. #55
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    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    EK1
    Quote Originally Posted by blabla View Post
    which amp?
    Eclipse XA2000

  8. #56
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    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    EK1
    tbM !!!! is there a way to remove the side interior doors without removing the WHOLE interior?

    This is where I am up to:




    I removed the grommet (behind the battery like yours) and there is white fluff, seems like carpet. How should I go about this? Is it safe to drill a hole directly? should I stab it with a knife or something? lol

    Last edited by Honda; 17-09-2012 at 05:36 PM.

  9. #57
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    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    fuk just a few questions lol

    -I cut heaps out of my door panel and used the factory screw points to mount the spacer. http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...2/IMAG0479.jpg

    -that ebay spacer is 16mm i used a 25mm one, you may have clearence issues depending on how deep your coaxial speaker is.

    -Im not sure about that side trim sorry i just pulled out the whole interior, its easier to run the cables with nothing in the car, doesnt take long to completely strip out an ek

    - the grommet is above the one you have an arrow pointing to, its behind the hvac blower but once you have a bit of cable pushed through you will be able to pull it through

    -i just jammed my finger in there a bit and pulled out a bit of fluff and jammed the cable through, you have to push it down not straight through if you know what i mean.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  10. #58
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    EK1
    THE WHOLE INTERIOR NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! It goes all the way to the boot + have to remove 6x9 speaker holders etc. Maybe I can chuck a shortcut by lifting it and sliding the cables in-

    I had to take a break due to rain

    Ohh okay, so you just slide the cable in with the fluff and it should pop up above the arrow I was pointing at

    You know when you connect the guage wire to the fuse or even amp terminals. Did you just screw it onto the ends? Or did you solder it THEN put it on the ends?

    ALSO where did you ground the cable? I was thinking to ground it on the one screw that holds the back seat in place
    Last edited by Honda; 17-09-2012 at 06:53 PM.

  11. #59
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Yeh you can do the dodgy and just tuck the wires under the trim.


    yeh you feed the wire in then you should feel a lump under the black stuff under your carpet, you know that underlay stuff in your pic



    reach your hand up under the black stuff then pull the wire through


    depends on how the terminals are, if they are like these i would put a ring terminal on the end



    or if like these just strip the end of the wire and put it in



    yeh i used that back seat bolt when i had 1 amp, bolt wasnt long enough for 2 ring terminals + seat bracket so i drilled a new ground point in the boot after i upgraded. remember to sand off the paint where your ground is on the chassis.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  12. #60
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    EK1
    I tried running the power cable but it gets jammed (it keeps going to the right and not directly down arrrgh!). I lift the black thing and reach as fast as I could, and unable to find the power cable. Where about it is? I cant point point the position.

    The fender was annoying, had to take out bumper, MUD GUARDS, headlights just to get a good access to that plug! Even then, I was unable to completely take off the fender as it was stuck somewhere at the bottom of the side skirt. No idea where.

    Now the drilling part is what I'm afraid of. What if i drill a wire.. is your ek gli or cxi?
    I perfer to have power windows + central locking than a sound system so yeah.. I don't want to tamper into something that is working perfectly fine.

    I just feel like running it through the door and under the door trim (its bad i know ) or even use the factory wire. Will there be any difference if I use factory wire? Considering my system is quite low end anyways.

    I'm getting frustrated lol
    Last edited by Honda; 18-09-2012 at 10:23 PM.

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