At one of my local shops, I'm picking up Penrite 10w-50 for under $50 for a 5L bottle. I figure that's thin enough to save my car from the short trips I always end up doing and still being useful when I go someplace stinking hot.... With that wide a range of weightings, I do change every 5000kms, but every time, that oil is a beautiful colour... translucent and gently brown.
At one of my local shops, I'm picking up Penrite 10w-50 for under $50 for a 5L bottle. I figure that's thin enough to save my car from the short trips I always end up doing and still being useful when I go someplace stinking hot.... With that wide a range of weightings, I do change every 5000kms, but every time, that oil is a beautiful colour... translucent and gently brown.
1. Some oils state fully synthetic but are not fully synthetic, they just make the standard and are lazily given the title.
2. What oil are you using?
3. Mineral oils contain no additives as they are extracted from the ground. So the additives are added it, but the bond on a molecular level isnt strong, so over time they separate and disintegrate.
4. Synthetic oils are man made and are engineered to have certain additives as part of their molecular structure. So expect better protection and performance with a synthetic over mineral.
5. I change my oil every 5K Km, and something is awry if synthetic oil is making your car perform worse than a mineral.
I used motul Xcess 5-40w. Everything I changed the oil it came out golden/brown.
10-40w is more suited to high powered turbocharged vehicles. Try another full synthetic oil that is 5-30w
Did you use the same oil filter on both occasions?
I used Castrol VMX80 in my gb plus Nulon treatment. It was good for about 8000km when I noticed it was getting harder to shift and slight grinding in 3rd.
Changed to valvoline Duragear Gl4 synthetic. Been a happy camper since.
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Originally Posted by Peppy
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