New rims, your experience with these brands - wheel bore/spigot size?

[.Dave]

yeah but used or not... does it matter
if the wheel is round, has no leaks, cracks or fat chunks missing it is no less a wheel than a new one....

i think the old style had more of a dish kinda thing, looked way fatter, the mirage at the jdmyard end of year meet for example had these older style

i might be wrong

[EKVTIR-T]

I guess it comes down to your personal standards

some people dont care as long as the part is functional and achieves the goal but for me I wont ever use a made in china/taiwan wheels or suspension

anything in the driveline/structure/suspension


and its not trying to be snobby or brandwhore,Im talking about material quality and strength/safety standards too

[mugen_ctr]

id go 949 racing 6uls if you can get the old style! but yes those should fit with very few dramas

why rep a brand when its been proven to crack/fail?, with hard evidence, so dont know why ppl continue to buy them for track purpose, even dynall has used them an failed on them, look on his build thread, but than again rotas are in the same situation lol, so ppl will do anything to save a buck as long as it does the job "fine", untill it fails than they learn the lesson hahha



+1 to EKVTIR-T, u can get a good set of 2nd hand JDM rims, forged or high quality cast rim that is to JWL or surpasses JWL

IN fact in 15x7 that is the more common size for 4x100 pcd so u can find them easier in japan, if it was me, id just settle for a good set of rays te37 or ce28n

[T-Bone]

I guess it comes down to your personal standards

some people dont care as long as the part is functional and achieves the goal but for me I wont ever use a made in china/taiwan wheels or suspension

anything in the driveline/structure/suspension


and its not trying to be snobby or brandwhore,Im talking about material quality and strength/safety standards too

Fair call. After seeing the image mugen posted below it has got me second guessing my approach even though they aren't TRM's.

The only reason why I wasn't looking at forged rims like rays or ssr is due to their steep pricing. But as mugen said, best to look at sets in japan so that is what I'll do.

why rep a brand when its been proven to crack/fail?, with hard evidence, so dont know why ppl continue to buy them for track purpose, even dynall has used them an failed on them, look on his build thread, but than again rotas are in the same situation lol, so ppl will do anything to save a buck as long as it does the job "fine", untill it fails than they learn the lesson hahha



+1 to EKVTIR-T, u can get a good set of 2nd hand JDM rims, forged or high quality cast rim that is to JWL or surpasses JWL

IN fact in 15x7 that is the more common size for 4x100 pcd so u can find them easier in japan, if it was me, id just settle for a good set of rays te37 or ce28n

Thanks for the insight mugen. Still not sure about the te37's or ce28n's. Don't get me wrong, I do love them, but they are still very expensive over in japan especially to then ship here.

I have however found a very good deal on a set of forged ssr's so I'm waiting for the person to contact me back after leaving a message. Hopefully it goes well

[Apu]

Google cracked/broken SSR or Volk or other brand. Shit happens.

That said, I've put my car into a kerb and the wheel survived so I (in my inexperience) reused it, which I shouldn't have...like a helmet - fall or crash in one, chuck it out.

So the wheel survived, great that it was strong. Unfortunately it also transferred all that force into the suspension components. Repair cost was $5K...and that was in 1994 money.

So, I'd rather have the wheel fracture and absorb a fair chunk of the force. That said, I agree there are poorly made wheels out there...look at the issues Holden had.

[fillit]

Google cracked/broken SSR or Volk or other brand. Shit happens.

That said, I've put my car into a kerb and the wheel survived so I (in my inexperience) reused it, which I shouldn't have...like a helmet - fall or crash in one, chuck it out.

So the wheel survived, great that it was strong. Unfortunately it also transferred all that force into the suspension components. Repair cost was $5K...and that was in 1994 money.

So, I'd rather have the wheel fracture and absorb a fair chunk of the force. That said, I agree there are poorly made wheels out there...look at the issues Holden had.

That rim above would have caused a fair bit of damage even though it broke, essentially most of the suspension components and the caliper/disk definitely rode on the inner rim. Costly Costly..

SSRs are prone to hairline cracks as they are "semi" forged, which means they are essentially cast... having a thicker tyre profile would absorb more impact than a rim breaking

[DreadAngel]

The majority of the broken JDM or other recognised brands are usually associated with their cast/semi forged/etc range. While their forged range usually from fatigue [used 5th hand] or damage from horrific situations. A lot of the replicas break from just daily not even going near the track.

SSR Type-C for example isn't forged... As fillit said they're semi-forged so not forged and they're a 2pc design too. A fair few of them have cracked but after some heavy usage or from stupidity.

I did run replica [Rota Slipstream cause I didn't want to have my Regas damaged/stolen], it did the job back then cause 2nd hand genuine TE37s cost almost 1/5th of my car's value =| But now with good load of 2nd hand buys floating around, there is no reason not to spend a little extra on some used but good condition forged rims [whatever the brand maybe] & don't skimp on tyres...

[Apu]

That rim above would have caused a fair bit of damage even though it broke, essentially most of the suspension components and the caliper/disk definitely rode on the inner rim. Costly Costly..

SSRs are prone to hairline cracks as they are "semi" forged, which means they are essentially cast... having a thicker tyre profile would absorb more impact than a rim breaking

I agree, damage would have occurred either way but it might not have been quite as extensive. I'm not talking about a wheel breaking into pieces like the pic of the one above - that's like a high tensile steel breaking. And loose metal...yikes! I'm referring to a fracture, or better yet, the wheel buckling.

Whilst I agree that forged wheels are better, they are prohibitively expensive and like I said earlier, buying used...especially if they've been repainted. Not something I am personally comfortable with. That said, I know a number of people have done so and have had no problems. By the same token, a number of people have also run Rotas with no problems, haha!

I've used a range of wheels - your brand names and some lesser known brands. I equate the spend on wheels relative to the cost of the car. You can get a range of reasonably good wheels for $1000 a set (Buddy Club for example). Personally, and like DreadAngel, whilst I have spent thousands on new wheels for new cars, I couldn't justify spending $4K on forged wheels for my $11K DC2R. But...we all have different perspectives right?

As for wheels breaking on daily drivers...I've had that happen as well. A 45" profile tyre on a 16" wheel on a car with a bit of camber, smacked into a cut in the road which the council hadn't filled. That spelt the end of a Euro branded wheel.

I've been driving for 25+ years and owned cars for 23 years or so. I don't dispute the quality of the branded wheels but I find it hard to justify the expense...it's like gold plated car audio systems. I don't even have an amp in my car nowadays, haha!

[fillit]

I agree, damage would have occurred either way but it might not have been quite as extensive. I'm not talking about a wheel breaking into pieces like the pic of the one above - that's like a high tensile steel breaking. And loose metal...yikes! I'm referring to a fracture, or better yet, the wheel buckling.

Whilst I agree that forged wheels are better, they are prohibitively expensive and like I said earlier, buying used...especially if they've been repainted. Not something I am personally comfortable with. That said, I know a number of people have done so and have had no problems. By the same token, a number of people have also run Rotas with no problems, haha!

I've used a range of wheels - your brand names and some lesser known brands. I equate the spend on wheels relative to the cost of the car. You can get a range of reasonably good wheels for $1000 a set (Buddy Club for example). Personally, and like DreadAngel, whilst I have spent thousands on new wheels for new cars, I couldn't justify spending $4K on forged wheels for my $11K DC2R. But...we all have different perspectives right?

As for wheels breaking on daily drivers...I've had that happen as well. A 45" profile tyre on a 16" wheel on a car with a bit of camber, smacked into a cut in the road which the council hadn't filled. That spelt the end of a Euro branded wheel.

I've been driving for 25+ years and owned cars for 23 years or so. I don't dispute the quality of the branded wheels but I find it hard to justify the expense...it's like gold plated car audio systems. I don't even have an amp in my car nowadays, haha!

Forged rims can be found cheap, if you run 5x114.3 GTR rims are the go. If you are patient enough, gems do show up on yahoo auctions, however shipping rapes your wallet.

All rims fail eventually, I've see an Enkei RPF1 with its lip missing after a track day and I've cracked a set of Enkei RP01s too, I guess I just have no luck with Enkeis.

Painting is fine, powder coating I feel uneasy about.

[lolmclol]

JDM wheels.

JDM is always best.

[ks_87]

I was told by a shop that Yokohama/Advan told him not to bother with hub centric rings for our style of cars (asian - where the studs are always on the hub) as you putting the wheel on properly the lugs nuts + studs will align the wheel properly. Apparently did a study on it and found that with or without ring its no difference and so just a waste of time. European cars are a different story though.

[lolmclol]

I was told by a shop that Yokohama/Advan told him not to bother with hub centric rings for our style of cars (asian - where the studs are always on the hub) as you putting the wheel on properly the lugs nuts + studs will align the wheel properly. Apparently did a study on it and found that with or without ring its no difference and so just a waste of time. European cars are a different story though.

I've got them considering they're only an extra $20? I remember reading a few random things with people having random vibrations that stopped after having them added.