Quote Originally Posted by fillit View Post
That rim above would have caused a fair bit of damage even though it broke, essentially most of the suspension components and the caliper/disk definitely rode on the inner rim. Costly Costly..

SSRs are prone to hairline cracks as they are "semi" forged, which means they are essentially cast... having a thicker tyre profile would absorb more impact than a rim breaking
I agree, damage would have occurred either way but it might not have been quite as extensive. I'm not talking about a wheel breaking into pieces like the pic of the one above - that's like a high tensile steel breaking. And loose metal...yikes! I'm referring to a fracture, or better yet, the wheel buckling.

Whilst I agree that forged wheels are better, they are prohibitively expensive and like I said earlier, buying used...especially if they've been repainted. Not something I am personally comfortable with. That said, I know a number of people have done so and have had no problems. By the same token, a number of people have also run Rotas with no problems, haha!

I've used a range of wheels - your brand names and some lesser known brands. I equate the spend on wheels relative to the cost of the car. You can get a range of reasonably good wheels for $1000 a set (Buddy Club for example). Personally, and like DreadAngel, whilst I have spent thousands on new wheels for new cars, I couldn't justify spending $4K on forged wheels for my $11K DC2R. But...we all have different perspectives right?

As for wheels breaking on daily drivers...I've had that happen as well. A 45" profile tyre on a 16" wheel on a car with a bit of camber, smacked into a cut in the road which the council hadn't filled. That spelt the end of a Euro branded wheel.

I've been driving for 25+ years and owned cars for 23 years or so. I don't dispute the quality of the branded wheels but I find it hard to justify the expense...it's like gold plated car audio systems. I don't even have an amp in my car nowadays, haha!