first day driving my dc5r !

[HauLe_]

The rear bar definitely makes the most difference.
Overall driving on the street, even on the stiffer setting (Whiteline is 2 point adjustable) the car behaves as normal as you can expect. During more spirited driving, understeer is reduced and if pushed hard enough (on the very few occasions I have), the car can oversteer but it's quite manageable.

With the front, to be honest I don't feel a noticeable difference at all.

Most other DC5R owners I know/talk to tend to just use EP3R front sway also, mainly to clear after market header.
I feel that it's adequate for a majority of people.

Yep most dc5s go for the ep3 front sway bar to clear the jdm branded headers. Ive also got the ep3 front sway. Plan on going for a 24mm rearsway bar. I am.planning on getting the progress rear sway bar but its hard to source for in australia and is quite expensive compared to whiteline. The good thing with whiteline is thats got a adjustable setting so you can change it if you feel its too tail happy.

[type_AHH]

Yep most dc5s go for the ep3 front sway bar to clear the jdm branded headers. Ive also got the ep3 front sway. Plan on going for a 24mm rearsway bar. I am.planning on getting the progress rear sway bar but its hard to source for in australia and is quite expensive compared to whiteline. The good thing with whiteline is thats got a adjustable setting so you can change it if you feel its too tail happy.

How come you're going Progress if it's expensive, hard to find and non adjustable?

[Daveho1]

i feel like you answered his question

[HauLe_]

How come you're going Progress if it's expensive, hard to find and non adjustable?

I like the quality of it as its well made. I dont like the whiteline adjustable ones. Not a fan. Just for my own reasons

[Daveho1]

its a metal bar...




i dont think ive ever heard of one failing without an impact... in any sway bar for that matter, i know whiteline had an issue with the subframe brace for the eg/dc but nevet heard of a failure of a sway bar

[DreadAngel]

its a metal bar...




i dont think ive ever heard of one failing without an impact... in any sway bar for that matter, i know whiteline had an issue with the subframe brace for the eg/dc but nevet heard of a failure of a sway bar

I have seen swaybars have bent from sub-par quality or over time and hard usage... It very very rare but it 'does' happen...

[Daveho1]

wow i guess that may happen, would make scence if someone used a very "hard" steel with low flexability i suppons on a really shit ebay one but when comparing white-line to progress surly that wouldnt be a consideration.

to me its like going and buying genuine honda indicator bulbs...

[RA73DR]

Re: Bushes - Bushes are optional however as your car is getting on near 10 yrs, most likely the suspension bushes have never been changed and by now will be squashed/worn so it will revitalise your car's handling and behaviour. If you're unsure, go underneath the car and check the condition of various suspension bushes for fraying/cracks/etc.

Re: Swaybars - Hollow or Solid it doesn't matter too much for you however hollow are lighter but less effective ie to match the rigidity of the solid, you have to go larger in diameter of a hollow. It's just something to know about

Re: Koni - You have to be careful, usually with most companies there is Geo-Blocking ie Within country of purchase so if you bought from say Koni USA then your warranty might be valid only to them. This might not be the case with Koni but best to check



#01 - Like the others have mentioned, in general, you'll notice the body roll is minimised or eliminated. Get your combination wrong though and your car can become oversteer/understeer prone.

#02 - Only a RSB or both FSB and RSB is highly dependent on your car's factory setup and your driver preference. In general, FWD cars tend to be understeer bias from factory. Adding just a RSB, if the sizing is done correctly against the factory FSB, the car can be neutral or bias towards oversteer. IF you go too big with RSB and makes your FWD car a little too tail nervous, you can counter with a thicker front sway =)

im not too familiar with suspension bushes for a car.

i just searched them up on ebay and there are so many options like UPPER and LOWER and FRONT and REAR and OUTER bush kits ? do all these need to be changed if i was to change bushes?

so many bushes never thought much of it lol confused me

[u mad?]

1 star thread

will not read again


re bushes, you can buy complete kits

the labor is a lot of $$$$$$ if youre not doing them yourself.

[DreadAngel]

im not too familiar with suspension bushes for a car.

i just searched them up on ebay and there are so many options like UPPER and LOWER and FRONT and REAR and OUTER bush kits ? do all these need to be changed if i was to change bushes?

so many bushes never thought much of it lol confused me

Best to do them all in one shot, as he said, you can get complete kits

[RA73DR]

ok, there is something reall really bugging my about my dc5r. i relise that at 6000rpm the crossover is good you feel increased power etc , but the thing bothering me is that when i stretch the gear , SOMETIMES just before the redline not sure i think 7700 rpm or so? i feel a crazy pull usually best in 3rd, sometimes second as well. like its the top end pull that is known for the vtec basically. but the thing bothering me is that it doesnt always do that top end pull only sometimes. the only thing i have is a short ram intake which i bought with it on the car already.

my mate has a type s with a short ram intake and when his car crosses over, there isnt a feel in increased power but at the top end you feel that extra pull that i get SOMETIMES in my dc5r but his one is consistent he also has a short ram on.

what could it be? i mean come on, it shouldnt be a 3-4 time thing out of 10 that it would pull top end, it should be consistent? what are your opinions on this guys ?

[Vvvtec]

Yeah that doesn't sound right at all? Has the car thrown any CEL's?

Sounds very odd. Does the car run cool? As in, literally does the temp gauge rise to warm when driving? Sounds like a compensation in the stock ecu. Almost like ignition retard when the car is cold. I'm not saying that's what it is at all, just seems like a similar symptom.

Weird/