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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Sydney, NSW
    Car:
    FD Civic Modulo
    I read somewhere that the FD2 Type R has some sections where instead of being "spot welded", its glued together to save weight while having the same stregth as a "welded frame".

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Honda S15
    1. Buy a AUDM FD2
    2. Buy a nice FD2R from Japan
    3. Import as a wreck
    4. ???????
    5. Profit

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NSW
    Car:
    Civic EG, RB3
    AUDM FD2 and JDM FD2R frames are different I think. FD2R is much more reinforced, more welds etc, so if you did do said engine swap, it won't handle the same.

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Car:
    Bagged FD Civic
    wouldnt be the same at all.

    i would get FD1 over FD2 JUST to pass the airbag sensor as VTI base model doesnt have side airbags while FD2 has them.
    backseats you will need the rear shelf parcel off the FD2R if ya want the type R back seats.
    door trims just black with leather arm rest.

    tyre king had a wreck FD2R sold the engine and all straight away but has some parts left. (front end conversion/wider fenders,front bumper,headlights,grille) unsure what you might have to do to put it on the AUS models.

  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Honda S15
    Quote Originally Posted by ogen View Post
    AUDM FD2 and JDM FD2R frames are different I think. FD2R is much more reinforced, more welds etc, so if you did do said engine swap, it won't handle the same.
    They are different. But once you strip both cars and compare. You pretty much know what and where weld.

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Southern suburbs Adelaide
    Car:
    JZX100 Chaser
    The only thing I'm really concerned about it what parts are needed for the motor conversion from r18-fd2r k20a and the difficulty of the conversion... If someone could find a tutorial or information that would be fantastic!

  7. #19

  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Southern suburbs Adelaide
    Car:
    JZX100 Chaser
    Thanks heaps trying to get in contact with him as we speak!

  9. #21
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    FD2, S15
    Last edited by kikimushroom; 04-10-2013 at 11:38 PM.
    Rep me if i have helped you

  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Southern suburbs Adelaide
    Car:
    JZX100 Chaser
    Thanks again for the information guys you've all been extremely helpful although this is only the icing of the cake!

    Looking at this brand new made to order spoon crate motor at the moment. The FD2R variant is the one I'm contemplating mating with the FD1 VTI as I believe this will be the easiest and will provide me with a good satisfied feel for the FD2R if I head down the path until I get around making and buying chassis reinforcements and bracing. Making the VTI handle as well as the FD2R will be the next step on the list after the motor is mated and running.

    http://www.nengun.com/spoon/complete-engine

    I believe this is just the bare block and nothing else. Need to write up a parts and pricing list so I can start calculating what it's going to cost me and what I actually have to spend.

    If anyone could provide me with some parts needed for the conversion I'd appreciate that highly and I could possibly start my price list. At this stage looking at the bare essentials for what I need to get this motor up and running into the car so I can get it on the road and driving. No interior or exterior pieces as the civic I'm looking at currently has a mugen RR kit on it. Will obviously be looking into interior pieces later down the track.

    All labour will be carried out by myself and will not be taking it to get installed, A tune will be the only time the car goes to a mechanic for something which is out of my hands and I have no concept/understanding of performing myself.

    Best regards and looking forwards to your responses.

  11. #23
    I'm looking at doing pretty much the same thing atm, only using an EP3 as the mechanical donor, and trying to decide between using an EU (aside from changing one mount, everything from the EP3 should swap in, engine/transmission/suspension/brakes, so using all stock Type R stuff along with the engine should make getting it through Regency easier), an FD1 (lighter than EU, cheaper than FD2, doesn't have sunroof or poxy tan leather, but may not be able to use the suspension, though the brakes should work, might be slightly harder to get legal) or an FD2 (already has a K20 so should just need engine number inspected).

    I believe that the EP3 was seam welded, so I imagine the FD2R's would have been treated similarly, and thats something that I definitely can't do myself (or at least wouldn't be comfortable doing), so if I wanted it done I think I'd need to strip the shell and have someone else do it.

    It might be easier for you to find an EP3 halfcut maybe, that way you should get the box and LSD and some better brakes (though not as good as FD2R's had) plus the matching loom. Its slightly down on power compared to a real FD2R engine but I don't think you'd notice the difference given you can't really jump in an FD2R to compare anyway. If you can find a crashed one you might even get the Recaros (yes, the FD2R didn't have them but you wouldn't say no would you )

    I haven't looked at any FD's yet but I sat in an EU on Friday, the interior is horrible compared to what the EP3's had, and from photos the FD's look to have much nicer plastics. For me it might come down to how much difference there is in headroom between the two shapes (which makes the FD2 more unlikely for me as the sunroof is likely to drop the headliner down even more when the roofline is lower than the hatchback EU. I just wish they'd sold FD2's here with cloth interior and no sunroof, that would make it so much easier to choose

  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Southern suburbs Adelaide
    Car:
    JZX100 Chaser
    I think you're on the right track with converting the FD like myself, Both mine and yours should be interesting builds. Really hoping the suspension is universal as I don't see any problem with it not being interchangable.

    Euro type R (FN2R) is horrible... Not one person I know have said anything good about them. Don't know what went through Honda's minds when they brought back the live axel and they removed the IRS. The FN2R could have been a lot better in my opinion but they went wrong in so many places and it all boiled down to budget I'm going to have to say.

    All I really need now is a parts list to get the motor in the car and running so just the bare essentials. Going to look at an FD1 tomorrow and if all looks well I'll be placing a deposit on it.

    I should have close to 20k give or take for the conversion. 6,700 for the motor and if I'm lucky I could probably source and fd2r box for a few thousand hopefully not much more. Brakes and chassis reinforcement and aftermarket bracing will be all done in time as well. They didn't have the recaro bucket seats because they broke off their contact with recaro from what I was reading and started to manufacturer their own seats for the FD2R and upwards.

    I concur 100% with your statement the FN2R is horrible don't even know why they brought them to Australia also. Guess it was down to budget as per usual though and because the FD chassis was already manufactured and sold to the Australian public in a non type r variant.

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