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  1. #37
    The ones that i am looking at are the same length as the factory springs.

  2. #38
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    CD5 & GE6
    Why not go Aftermarket struts with oem springs
    Koni!!!

    As for turbo
    Find a REPUTABLE TUNER who is good with any ecu you have in mind and use that ecu he is good with
    Discuss with him your goals and what psi/turbo you'll be looking at etc.

    Look unless you're going to do a major rebuild of the engine
    Forged conrods, pistons, ring lands, balanced crankshaft etc.
    12ps is pushing it on stock internals, even though the F series it bulletproof - they can only take so much
    How man km's has the engine got?
    Any pinging/knocking at 1000-2000rpms?
    What compression are you running across all 4 cylinders?
    Minimum is 130 psi-190psi. Less than 10% variance between numbers is what is optimal

    You'll easily get 6-8psi as a daily with a good tune on stock internals.
    Only with a GOOD tune. Yes i know i have repeated my self
    You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz

    www.OzAccord.net/forum

  3. #39
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    835 Beaufort St
    Car:
    hondie 2000
    Quote Originally Posted by VTEC_ACCORD View Post
    The ones that i am looking at are the same length as the factory springs.
    sorry i thought u were talking about those short 'coilover' springs

    I don't see why not - what springs are they anyway?
    S P A M | W O R K S
    hehe.
    PHC


  4. #40
    They are megan racing springs.

    The engine has 306k on it. I'm planning on buying a second hand cylinder head and rebuilding it with new parts and some stuff from bisimoto as well. And when i pull the head off to replace it, it's getting a performance head gasket from
    Bisimoto as well as some new pistons and rings. And i think they're called h beam rods as well. Also new fuel rail and injectors from bisimoto. I don't think i'll got to the extent of getting forged internals.

    And there is no rattles or noises in the low revs, but in 1st gear at about 4500 it rattles sometimes. I thought it might just be the lifters sticking and the rocker arms rattling around..

  5. #41
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    CD5 & GE6
    That is alot of kms for 12psi
    You will need forged if your going over 10psi
    Head work is just the start really
    You don't need everything from bisimoto
    Check out AEM, skunk2, etc. You'll also need a new fuel regulator and fuel pump
    How much power were you looking to make at the wheel/or crank/flywheel?
    I know i'm coming of as arrogant but turboing a car is ALOT of work
    Do some research come up with a parts list and consult other people who have turboed their accords/hondas
    There is a guy on ozaccord who turbo-ed his accord
    You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz

    www.OzAccord.net/forum

  6. #42
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Kermit K20A
    With 306,000km and having the intentions of turbocharging, you would be better off buying a complete second hand engine from the wreckers and rebuild that. I would leave the head stock (apart from a good set of valve springs) and build the bottom end with forged rods and pistons (ring lands are a section of the piston, not a replaceable part).

    I would also look at some ARP head studs, 600cc injectors, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump & ecu.

    You will get a Hondata to work or you could look to hardwire a Haltech in. All comes down on what you and your tuner want from the ecu.


    HANDLING

    If you are going to be doing hill climbs with a turbo Accord, you will need a properly matched suspension set up. I would look at Koni shocks/Eibach springs or something similar or a set of coilovers, along with a nice rear swaybar.

    You will also need a LSD to make sure you can get the power to the ground and this involves opening the gearbox and rebuilding it.

    With brakes there are a few options out there. You can stay with the 4 stud and upgrade pads/rotors/hoses all round or you can go 5 stud and do the same thing. Pad selection is more critical than what rotor you use as if the temp range of the pad is too low or too high, you will not pull up quick enough.

    And the thing that is going to be of most benefit to you, tyres. If you are going to the effort of doing all these other mods, make sure you get a great tyre (Toyo R1R, Advan AD08R, Kumho KU36 or similar) as your whole setup is only as good as your tyres.


    If you have any questions or need some parts, drop me a PM, otherwise best of luck with your adventure
    Last edited by stndrd; 21-01-2014 at 08:54 AM.
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

  7. #43
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    CD5 & GE6
    Stndrd is da man
    Ima leave this thread ahah
    You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz

    www.OzAccord.net/forum

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