I can't see that this would be a relevant issue. It's like comparing vaginal to anal sex. One way slides in , other way requires abit of force....one is def the designed way lol
So... after some thinking, I tried to do some test again last night. Hooked up a test light to the positive battery terminal, probed the negative terminal on the coil and cranked it. I got nothing, not flashing flight not even a light before cranking. I'm thinking the Ignition Module has crapped itself. I've been doing some searching online and it seems very hard to find a decent priced one. They are all $90+ from the states. Will trying giving the auto stores a call today i think.
Anyhow, I've since realised that I have got the part name all wrong... Its actually the Crank Angle Sensor that sits inside the dizzy on these bloody Hitachi D4T94-04 ones. These are like 180 bucks each on eBay. So.. is there an Ignition Control Module in these civics then?
Anyhow, I've since realised that I have got the part name all wrong... Its actually the Crank Angle Sensor that sits inside the dizzy on these bloody Hitachi D4T94-04 ones. These are like 180 bucks each on eBay. So.. is there an Ignition Control Module in these civics then?
Yeah i will be going down to Jolly's you pull it this weekend and getting one of one of the civic they have.
Out of curiosity last night, I tried to do the ECU fault code testing. So, i go and hook up a paperclip between the 2 pins on the connector, then turned the key to the ON position. and my check engine light stays on.... i guess that didnt go to well.. or does that actually mean something bad? because the light turns on and off normally when I dont have that paper clip in there.
I was looking at one of the DIY guides on here and the CEL staying on means bad ECU or fault code 0.. hmmm
Yeah i will be going down to Jolly's you pull it this weekend and getting one of one of the civic they have.
Out of curiosity last night, I tried to do the ECU fault code testing. So, i go and hook up a paperclip between the 2 pins on the connector, then turned the key to the ON position. and my check engine light stays on.... i guess that didnt go to well.. or does that actually mean something bad? because the light turns on and off normally when I dont have that paper clip in there.
I was looking at one of the DIY guides on here and the CEL staying on means bad ECU or fault code 0.. hmmm
When the CEl light comes on and off momentarily when the key is at POSII - it just means the ECU has done a self check
If you susoect a bad ECU
I'd pull it out and check the circuit board
I had a mysterious D4 code which in turn was caused by a faulty ECU
Maybe you shorted out the ECU when you removed the dizzy?
You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz
So, I also read on on another forum that the CEL staying on, means there are no fault codes to report. hmmmm Anyhow, I gave up and got a second hand dizzy on the weekend, will install it tonight and see how it goes.
please try and find another dizzy off a mate or member here and swap it and make sure it's 100% the distributor.
You can start chasing your tail pretty quick with ignition problems
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