EP3 Type R

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Icebox

hey guys

so i was driving home from work just then (i work in a hotel explains the early morning post :D) and while i was driving the engine light popped up, was kinda worried i just had my belt changed for the car.

popped the bonnet and nothing seems to be out of place or anything, engine mount still going strong and fluids are near full. any ideas on what might be the issue? im leaning towards either my o2 sensors has just gave up or either the mechanic knocked something out of place during the replacement of the belt.

anyone ever had the same issue? and was the problem?

use my car as a daily for my other job~~ and i dont wanna be putting the car under stress with the engine light on

---

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...what-they-mean

http://www.k-series.com/content.php?...ine-Light-(CEL

Click on the link and do the paper clip trick. Follow the codes to determine what's wrong. It could be one or even more codes coming up.

First time my engine light came on was after a header install. The secondary o2 sensor malfunctioned (65), which was replaced. Then second time it came up, same malfunction code with an additional fuel system code (45). The light went off later that evening after the track day.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM EP3

Anyone know how to adjust the headlights on the EP3?

---

If you pop the bonnet and look at the top of your headlights, you should see the letters U - D (Up & down) and L - R (Left & Right) with arrows showing which way to turn to adjust. You should then see little slots where you can put a long philips screw driver in to turn the dials. The one just behind the high beam adjusts the light Up and down. The one towards the side fender adjusts it left and right.

The little metal thing is what the slots should lead your screwdriver to, the head of the screwdriver will meet with the teeth of the metal thing and you just turn to adjust.

http://i78.phhttp://i78.photobucket....p/DSC00132.jpghttp://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...p/DSC00132.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RPS.13

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...what-they-mean

http://www.k-series.com/content.php?...ine-Light-(CEL

Click on the link and do the paper clip trick. Follow the codes to determine what's wrong. It could be one or even more codes coming up.



First time my engine light came on was after a header install. The secondary o2 sensor malfunctioned (65), which was replaced. Then second time it came up, same malfunction code with an additional fuel system code (45). The light went off later that evening after the track day.

---

thanks for the info, i just took it to Benny at BYB, lucky he had his shop open today or i would have had to fake a sickie just to go get it replaced, overall assumption was indeed right

primary o2 sensor was gone. overall quick fix thanks to Benny :thumbsup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by UNA91

If you pop the bonnet and look at the top of your headlights, you should see the letters U - D (Up & down) and L - R (Left & Right) with arrows showing which way to turn to adjust. You should then see little slots where you can put a long philips screw driver in to turn the dials. The one just behind the high beam adjusts the light Up and down. The one towards the side fender adjusts it left and right.

The little metal thing is what the slots should lead your screwdriver to, the head of the screwdriver will meet with the teeth of the metal thing and you just turn to adjust.

http://i78.phhttp://i78.photobucket....p/DSC00132.jpghttp://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...p/DSC00132.jpg

---

Hey man thanks for that info, its really hard to make out the letters for U-D I couldnt actually make them out. So the up/down screw is the one furthest away from the fender?

The up & down screw should be the one just next to the high beams so yea it's the one furthest away from the fender; you should be able to see it easily on the drivers side light. From my memory I think turning it anti-clockwise (facing the front of the car) will move the lights up and visa versa.

btw, my info is based on the FL headlight, but it should be the same

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Icebox

thanks for the info, i just took it to Benny at BYB, lucky he had his shop open today or i would have had to fake a sickie just to go get it replaced, overall assumption was indeed right

primary o2 sensor was gone. overall quick fix thanks to Benny :thumbsup:

---

Nice meeting you today icebox you were lucky he normally dont open on Sundays.

what time does BYP open till and WHERE IS HE?
thx

Normal business hours sometimes they stay back.

276-278 Victoria St
Wetherill Park 2164

Guys

What's the part number for the drivers side oil filled engine mount?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Perry

Normal business hours sometimes they stay back.

276-278 Victoria St
Wetherill Park 2164

---

thx champ

Got my Hasport drivers side mount in today, and quality is nice; you can see where you money went to lol. It also really blings after giving it a polish with good old brasso.

Haven't gotten into installing it yet since I spent almost half a day trying to remove my old oem mount from the car and couldn't even remove a single bolt! Everything is so tight, sigh

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by UNA91

Got my Hasport drivers side mount in today, and quality is nice; you can see where you money went to lol. It also really blings after giving it a polish with good old brasso.

Haven't gotten into installing it yet since I spent almost half a day trying to remove my old oem mount from the car and couldn't even remove a single bolt! Everything is so tight, sigh

---

I've got Innovation mounts all round but I'm over the vibrations

Stock mount for me only and brand new

Hey guys just added a few new items check it out

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...rious-Parts-FS

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Perry

Nice meeting you today icebox you were lucky he normally dont open on Sundays.

---

Nice meeting you to Perry, haha yeah really do consider my self lucky. thank god, if they werent would have been paranoid for until i got it fixed

Uhh, currently installing the the hasport motor mouunt and ran into a problem... the mount itself lines up perfectly, but when i put the bracket on i have to adjust the mount so its seated in, and when it s seated in, the mounts do not line up anymore. Perhaps they pressed the inserts in the wrong direction?

Holes lined up without the bracket:
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/8941/imag0544l.jpg

And after bracket has been seated:
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/7071/imag0542j.jpg
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/41/imag0543b.jpg

wtf..

I'm unable to view the images at work, but I'm assuming its the same problem I had. For the drivers side mount, I had to twist the rubber mount and bracket until it lined up. It is quite hard to move but it does move. I had to adjust it several times, installed and removed several times too to get the right position. Was a bit frustrating to get it to line up right.

So yeah, you'll have to twist it around until its in the right position. I think from memory I just twisted it by hand. Most annoying thing was if I twisted too far, then I had to remove it, twist it again then reinstall it. From memory I couldn't twist it whilst it was mounted.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RPS.13

I'm unable to view the images at work, but I'm assuming its the same problem I had. For the drivers side mount, I had to twist the rubber mount and bracket until it lined up. It is quite hard to move but it does move. I had to adjust it several times, installed and removed several times too to get the right position. Was a bit frustrating to get it to line up right.

So yeah, you'll have to twist it around until its in the right position. I think from memory I just twisted it by hand. Most annoying thing was if I twisted too far, then I had to remove it, twist it again then reinstall it. From memory I couldn't twist it whilst it was mounted.

---

Haha yeah, I eventually figured that from trying to remove the bolt under the mount that goes through, it made the whole insert rotate; so I was able to adjust it enough till it lined up perfectly. Thanks!

Btw, starting up the car now feels more shakey and the vibrations were a little evident at idle, but not that it's a bad thing... sort of adds character to the car haha pulling away in 1st, and shifting to 2nd is less jerky than before.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by UNA91

Haha yeah, I eventually figured that from trying to remove the bolt under the mount that goes through, it made the whole insert rotate; so I was able to adjust it enough till it lined up perfectly. Thanks!

Btw, starting up the car now feels more shakey and the vibrations were a little evident at idle, but not that it's a bad thing... sort of adds character to the car haha pulling away in 1st, and shifting to 2nd is less jerky than before.

---

Ah yes that jerkyness from 1st-2nd and 3rd, makes u shift reall smoothly. My brother always bounces the car when he drives it.

Yeah haha, the mounts fixed it up real good, throttle response feels so much more solid and driving is so much more smoother now; but while idling, the vibration is evident, the steering wheel and shifter shakes abit lol and i can feel it on my ass and feet but its not so bad, heaps worth it. It also fixed the 2nd gear 'mini grind/scratching' issue i had when ever i shift to 2nd.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by UNA91

Yeah haha, the mounts fixed it up real good, throttle response feels so much more solid and driving is so much more smoother now; but while idling, the vibration is evident, the steering wheel and shifter shakes abit lol and i can feel it on my ass and feet but its not so bad, heaps worth it. It also fixed the 2nd gear 'mini grind/scratching' issue i had when ever i shift to 2nd.

---

is a worthwhile upgrade and I was already looking at getting these next for the car

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM EP3

is a worthwhile upgrade and I was already looking at getting these next for the car

---

Well I got new mounts first thing on my ep3 when I got my car. Feels like a new car.

Might invest in these
All using Hasport?

Im still deciding between Mugen with insert or J's

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Perry

Im still deciding between Mugen with insert or J's

---

Hasport for me all the way, btw anyone know what the stock EP3 swaybar size is? 15mm? I just got my energy suspension bushing kit and see that it has 15mm size busing, wanted to use that with the whiteline swaybar as they are alot firmer than the whiteline stuff.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by butterfingers

Might invest in these
All using Hasport?

---

Well I'm using mugen mounts.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by butterfingers

Might invest in these
All using Hasport?

---

It's well worth it, before my car felt sluggish and jerky decelerating and shifting; now it feels more responsive and overall better to drive. Rev matching was also more smoothed out since the engine doesn't spend so much time bouncing around. Tho, I only got the drivers side mount since the old one was split to the point it just looked like a hamburger. >.>

It was a decision between innovative and hasport mounts, but went for hasport after reading that the innovative mount inserts tend to lose its shape and oval out. I'm going to be using Sikaflex 252 (3M window weld alternative) to fill my transmission mounts since it seems to be a pretty popular 'mod' especially amongst the nissan guys; its supposedly meant to have a good balance between stiffness and ride comfort, i think its rated around 55a durometer, so i thought why not give it a try?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM EP3

Hasport for me all the way, btw anyone know what the stock EP3 swaybar size is? 15mm? I just got my energy suspension bushing kit and see that it has 15mm size busing, wanted to use that with the whiteline swaybar as they are alot firmer than the whiteline stuff.

---

The rear sway bar is 22mm hollow, but not sure about the front ones.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by UNA91

It's well worth it, before my car felt sluggish and jerky decelerating and shifting; now it feels more responsive and overall better to drive. Rev matching was also more smoothed out since the engine doesn't spend so much time bouncing around. Tho, I only got the drivers side mount since the old one was split to the point it just looked like a hamburger. >.>

It was a decision between innovative and hasport mounts, but went for hasport after reading that the innovative mount inserts tend to lose its shape and oval out. I'm going to be using Sikaflex 252 (3M window weld alternative) to fill my transmission mounts since it seems to be a pretty popular 'mod' especially amongst the nissan guys; its supposedly meant to have a good balance between stiffness and ride comfort, i think its rated around 55a durometer, so i thought why not give it a try?



The rear sway bar is 22mm hollow, but not sure about the front ones.

---

Nice
Good to know it improves the feel of rev matching too

Hi i got my ep3 type r today, from IMG service etc was excellent, im going it to get it checked but before i go i might aswell ask on the furoms, my ep3r jams alot from 1st to 2nd gear at 8000rpm, before vtec it shifts fine, its not me because i press the clutch all the way down and also hold the shifter to the left while shifting from 1st to 2nd and still just jams alot, sometimes it dosent, i make sure the car is fully warmed up when i done this and still the same problem, alot have said it could be oil or syncro's either way i have warranty so its cool. But still would like some help before i take it in.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by baby_phantom

Hi i got my ep3 type r today, from IMG service etc was excellent, im going it to get it checked but before i go i might aswell ask on the furoms, my ep3r jams alot from 1st to 2nd gear at 8000rpm, before vtec it shifts fine, its not me because i press the clutch all the way down and also hold the shifter to the left while shifting from 1st to 2nd and still just jams alot, sometimes it dosent, i make sure the car is fully warmed up when i done this and still the same problem, alot have said it could be oil or syncro's either way i have warranty so its cool. But still would like some help before i take it in.

---

Congrats on purchase. Maybe just bring it down for a service. Probably just needs fluids changed for transmission.

Not sure where too post things like this so move it if need be or let us know somewhere more suitable.

http://www.autodynamics-honda.com/
These guys ^^^^

They are a great source for OEM parts. Reliable, great customer service, reasonable prices, and fast shipping.
Purchased a coolant temperature sensor on the 15th. Arrive today. Paid just over $70 for it (including express postage), which is $20 odd cheaper than Honda (none were in stock so would probably take 3 years for postage).

just thought Id mention them for future reference.

Sweet will book it in for a trans fluid change, also when im at high rpm and let off the gas whilst in gear i hear a weird metal grinding sorta noise like a metal disc grinding against each other, any clues ?

I recommend using Original Honda MTF, which solved my 1st to 2nd lock out problems during cold start.

I'm runni.g hardrace mounts at the moment. Feels awesome and ride comfort is great. Obviously vibrates in cabin but not bad..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by UNA91

I recommend using Original Honda MTF, which solved my 1st to 2nd lock out problems during cold start.

---

+1 to Honda MTF, although I would like to try some more exotic oil for my gearbox next time and see how that feels

Yeah sounds like your gears need to be oiled. Had that problem too when I first got my car.+1 for the Honda MTF.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM EP3

+1 to Honda MTF, although I would like to try some more exotic oil for my gearbox next time and see how that feels

---

Seen a couple of guys on this forum do the very same thing only to find it made their crunching gears worse. Needless to say, they reverted back to MTF06 very quickly.

Yeah, I found Honda MTF to be the only oil that didn't lock me out of 1st and 2nd; i've tried Cusco and Redline and i felt like i needed to force the gears in more if not it'll grind. I think it was something to do with the thickness of the oils, then again I've also heard Honda used engine oil as their trans oil lol

Looking to further improve the feel of the car... anyone have experience with steel braided brake lines? or even the brake stoppers/brace? Are they worhit for a daily driver with a little spirited drive sometimes?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by UNA91

Looking to further improve the feel of the car... anyone have experience with steel braided brake lines? or even the brake stoppers/brace? Are they worhit for a daily driver with a little spirited drive sometimes?

---

if its only daily drive and occasional spirited then i dont think so. i did it just for the fun of it. upgraded the rotors, pads and thought... well if spending money on this.. might aswell get the braided lines.

the OEM ones expand as you brake more and more due to heat so you lose braking power. steel lines wont.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mikeyy168

if its only daily drive and occasional spirited then i dont think so. i did it just for the fun of it. upgraded the rotors, pads and thought... well if spending money on this.. might aswell get the braided lines.

the OEM ones expand as you brake more and more due to heat so you lose braking power. steel lines wont.

---

Yeah same here. Got the pads, rotors and braided lines as well. I feel that braking seems much more firmer with braided lines. Anyone feel the same?
At one point was considering getting them spoon calipers but would have to either get some spacers or new wheels.

Brake stopper is well worth the money. Good cheap and easy mod. You can really feel the difference in the pedal feel.

Apart from spoon. What brands have you guys used?

Not necessary but I would love a set of ksport.. so dam sexy

Yeah, i've read the brake stopper makes the feel much better, and for such an inexpensive mod, why not?

Right now I feel like sometimes i have to press the brake all the way in when going down hill or going from highway and exiting; its just that really spongy feeling. It makes me wonder if my ABS will kick in sometime lol.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bluey45

Yeah same here. Got the pads, rotors and braided lines as well. I feel that braking seems much more firmer with braided lines. Anyone feel the same?
At one point was considering getting them spoon calipers but would have to either get some spacers or new wheels.

---

I have them they are ****ing insane

A tap at 120ks put you down to 70-80 in under a second

Do people think that an asr brace is worth getting for the whiteline swaybar? I found it for the ep3 for $200 from the US.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM EP3

Do people think that an asr brace is worth getting for the whiteline swaybar? I found it for the ep3 for $200 from the US.

---

Im considering them at the moment but cant find much review i guess it acts like a lower tie bar at the same time provides bling bling jdm accessories are selling them for $205.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by butterfingers

I have them they are ****ing insane

A tap at 120ks put you down to 70-80 in under a second

---

Serious mate? Far that's awesome. How much did you get them for and what wheel setup you running?

Thinking of getting a brake stopper as well but don't know which one is good. Any recommendations?

Tegiwa`s brake stopper is good for the price. They all do the same thing. The welding on the bracket isn't as tidy as the cusco ones. But u can`t really see under there anyway.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bluey45

Serious mate? Far that's awesome. How much did you get them for and what wheel setup you running?

Thinking of getting a brake stopper as well but don't know which one is good. Any recommendations?

---

Coming from a stock ek1 to an ep3 and spoon calipers The difference is phenomenal. First drive I treated it like the ek, braking early before a turn

Needed to speed up again just do I wouldn't slow down traffic

Feel really sensitive specially at high speeds. You don't expect to slow so much from the pressure you apply

Car feels so nimble terms of speed control

Running cr-Kai at the moment, they just clear the calipers

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Perry

Im considering them at the moment but cant find much review i guess it acts like a lower tie bar at the same time provides bling bling jdm accessories are selling them for $205.

---

I doubt there would be much to review about it. Its a reinforcement bar to prevent subframe tear out. Its the swaybar that does all the handling aspect of it. My question is at the price should we go for it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM EP3

I doubt there would be much to review about it. Its a reinforcement bar to prevent subframe tear out. Its the swaybar that does all the handling aspect of it. My question is at the price should we go for it?

---

Yeah the only ppl will benefit from it are the ep3 si guys from the states running bigger sways, The price wont vary much I put a order in already and apparently it has arrived so ill try and get it installed soonish. If you can find it cheaper than 200 it will be good.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Perry

Yeah the only ppl will benefit from it are the ep3 si guys from the states running bigger sways, The price wont vary much I put a order in already and apparently it has arrived so ill try and get it installed soonish. If you can find it cheaper than 200 it will be good.

---

I found it for $179USD from swap shop racing, silver base colour. +20$ for any other colour.
Trying to decide on black or gold, with the greyish whiteline sway?

arrr nice I went with the normal silver, I was planning on black but it will look wired with a orange sway since lower control arms and rear sub frame isnt black.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Perry

arrr nice I went with the normal silver, I was planning on black but it will look wired with a orange sway since lower control arms and rear sub frame isnt black.

---

Noooo, if it was orange you should have gone black I doubt you can easily see the rest of the setup anyway

Do u guys know If the function7 subframe will fit if I have a whiteline sway bar on the ep3?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM EP3

Noooo, if it was orange you should have gone black I doubt you can easily see the rest of the setup anyway

---

toooo late i got it already black is to plain.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Perry

toooo late i got it already black is to plain.

---

ur too plain !

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Perry

toooo late i got it already black is to plain.

---

Well the orange would have stood out against the black.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM EP3

Well the orange would have stood out against the black.

---

Yeah i know oh wells i could always respray it later on =)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SuperSteve

ur too plain !

---

Indeed I am Steve hehehhe

Lol I just used Sikaflex (3m window weld alternative) to fill my transmission mount, and my god that stuff is messy as hell to use, once it gets on something you'll have a hard as hell time getting it off. It dried pretty solid, but I think i left some air pockets on some sides since it was pretty hard to tell what I was doing.

Shifts feel more smoother now, especially shifting at high rpm; vibrations isn't much difference since i got a Hasport side mount. Yes it's pretty ghetto, but its doing it's job lol and if it fails in the long run i'd probs upgrade to Hasport anyway.

dumb question guys, but when the fuel light pops up does it mean i have 10Ls left in the tank?

because i was driving home yesterday, and my fuel gauge was sitting on 2 bars above empty, crapping my pants to find a petrol station home, but my light never come on~ i was confused cause the light normally comes on before that,

LED gone? maybe?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Icebox

dumb question guys, but when the fuel light pops up does it mean i have 10Ls left in the tank?

because i was driving home yesterday, and my fuel gauge was sitting on 2 bars above empty, crapping my pants to find a petrol station home, but my light never come on~ i was confused cause the light normally comes on before that,

LED gone? maybe?

---

The fuel light in mine is a bit weird too. Sometimes it comes on, then goes off, I drive to and form work for another day or two and then it comes back on again. I reckon there would have to be around 10 litres left in the tank when it comes on, I have driven for ages with it on and not run out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by -JC-

The fuel light in mine is a bit weird too. Sometimes it comes on, then goes off, I drive to and form work for another day or two and then it comes back on again. I reckon there would have to be around 10 litres left in the tank when it comes on, I have driven for ages with it on and not run out.

---

i know what you mean, whats weird is i fueled up 45Ls when it clicked, and our tanks 50Ls so something weirds going on for sure lol, oh well just happy i maded it to a petrol station at 2am in the morning

I filled up yesterday at 46ltrs and vteced a few times before I got there. I worked out that I am only getting 12.5l/100km. Basically granny driving, still waiting on those plugs to see if thats the issue, as I did a service last week.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM EP3

I filled up yesterday at 46ltrs and vteced a few times before I got there. I worked out that I am only getting 12.5l/100km. Basically granny driving, still waiting on those plugs to see if thats the issue, as I did a service last week.

---

12.5L/100km is a lot man, i thought you changted your o2 sensor ?

How do I know if my o2 sensor is going bad?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by UNA91

How do I know if my o2 sensor is going bad?

---

error light comes on hahah

Simple

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Icebox

12.5L/100km is a lot man, i thought you changted your o2 sensor ?

---

No I havent changed it yet, I never got a CEL light but was thinking that could be an issue. I'll wait until I get the new sparkies in and see if that remedies the problem first.

Hah just asked cause my last fuel up went down pretty fast; normal driving, same route. Just wondering if my sensor is on its way out or something... Am i able to take them out for a visual inspection or are they real fragile or something?

Can you guys help

Engine light comes on very briefly (under a second) every now and then on Hill starts

Maybe once Every 20 or so drives
Anybody know why?

guiz

a thought - our cars are tuned on/for japanese higher octane fuel (apparently 103RON) so basically the ep3r ecu will run richer as to not lean out with its required a/f ratio and overall tune.

So , either chuck in a local DC5R ecu and get alittle less HP but alittle better fuel economy - or stop complaining about it lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bennjamin

guiz

a thought - our cars are tuned on/for japanese higher octane fuel (apparently 103RON) so basically the ep3r ecu will run richer as to not lean out with its required a/f ratio and overall tune.

So , either chuck in a local DC5R ecu and get alittle less HP but alittle better fuel economy - or stop complaining about it lol

---

Touche

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bennjamin

guiz

a thought - our cars are tuned on/for japanese higher octane fuel (apparently 103RON) so basically the ep3r ecu will run richer as to not lean out with its required a/f ratio and overall tune.

So , either chuck in a local DC5R ecu and get alittle less HP but alittle better fuel economy - or stop complaining about it lol

---

I'll put your pretty useless post to rest. A lot of ep3 guys are getting 400km's+ out of a full tank with standard ep3 ecu's

I'm getting 10.1L/100kms, and I don't baby my EP3 either.
I used to get 9-9.5L/100kms though so I'm not sure what's causing it to drop recently, might replace the fuel filter and do a major service to see if that helps.

Im getting an easy 450:) its bliss

Sorry for the silly question... but how do you guys actually measure your fuel consumption lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JDM EP3

I'll put your pretty useless post to rest. A lot of ep3 guys are getting 400km's+ out of a full tank with standard ep3 ecu's

---

Sorry but you are a dick for a reply like that. Instead of dissing my 3 seconds of typing - how about dispell a "myth" with some facts ? Prove me wrong ? I too got 400-450kms out of a tank in my ep3. But this is very average/poor fuel economy.

What I stated is partially correct. Please correct me if wrong , mate.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bennjamin

Sorry but you are a dick for a reply like that. Instead of dissing my 3 seconds of typing - how about dispell a "myth" with some facts ? Prove me wrong ? I too got 400-450kms out of a tank in my ep3. But this is very average/poor fuel economy.

What I stated is partially correct. Please correct me if wrong , mate.

---

gotta agree. with both comments here.
fail reply and the average/poor fuel economy. 400k's with a k20... I dont consider that as GREAT fuel economy. should be able to get 500km's easy with that 50L tank we have.

I personally havnt been getting it since im running a bit rich or lean due to new modifications on the car but a new ECU and tune will do the fix! :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bennjamin

Sorry but you are a dick for a reply like that. Instead of dissing my 3 seconds of typing - how about dispell a "myth" with some facts ? Prove me wrong ? I too got 400-450kms out of a tank in my ep3. But this is very average/poor fuel economy.

What I stated is partially correct. Please correct me if wrong , mate.

---

If you bought an ep3 for "outstanding" fuel economy your literally going to a brothel for a hug

I've pushed mine to 480km but normally fill up around 450 mark.