I know i'm not the only one that finds 2nd gear doesn't like to engage smoothly all the time, what would fix this and make all gears engage quickly and smoothly both during WOT and just driving slow and luxurious??
Printable View
I know i'm not the only one that finds 2nd gear doesn't like to engage smoothly all the time, what would fix this and make all gears engage quickly and smoothly both during WOT and just driving slow and luxurious??
get the MTF changed. 80,000km is recommended, but that is wayyyyy too long imo. I got it done at 33xxx kms, and it fixed all my gb problems.
Yea i have a difficult second gear and 3rd blocks up sometimes, i've only had my car for 25k so ill be speaking to the dealer.
I'm not sure if they will cover it under warranty, but a MTF change cost me ~$65 which included the fluids and labor.
what does mtf stand for ?Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
manual transmission fluid
Could be your clutch bearing. The clutch isn't disengaging properly or quick enough so the gears smack eachother causing that blocked feeling.
I think that's what's happening to mine...
try the mtf flush first.
2nd gear was getting blocked hard pretty often for me before the flush.
if it doesnt fix after oil change, i think your synchro is worn out. it happens on my gearbox. hope it will work after oil change.
Did it feel like your gearstick was hitting a brick wall then sort of clunking into 2nd? And your engine lost all its momentum so the car bogs really hard into 2nd when you eventually got there?Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
That's the feeling I have, it's killing me :o
I had no problems going up through the gears. It was only down through the gears I had the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by integral90
Even with a bit of revs before trying to engage it, it still wouldn't go in. It just felt blocked and once I felt it I just backed off and put it into neutal instead of forcing it in, so I can't really say what it felt like once engaged.
After the fluid change I had the block maybe once since, at that was like 2 days after I got it done. The last 6+ months have been block free.
For the price, I highly recommend it as a starting point to diagnosing/fixing the problem.
Haha funny, my problem is the exact opposite. Goes into gear easily when going down but not up. Yeah I've already done clutch fluid (came out dark like used engine oil), that gave the clutch a bit more feel and the sticking stopped a tiny bit... but it's still there. I'll do MTF soon I think, if it's still there then time to start saving for a sports clutch/flywheel/LSD :DQuote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
that's interesting, hope it's nothing serious with the GB though. Hate to think how much new synchros are :zip:Quote:
Originally Posted by integral90
Haha, I'm certain it isn't syncros. If anything just clutch.Quote:
Originally Posted by power_of_dreams
To be certain I did some shifts into 2nd without clutch and there was no grind or anything. Went in as smooth as if the clutch was in. But the problem also happens going from redline into 3rd and 4th. And how you could wear out your 4th gear syncros would confuse the hell outta me :p
well if its clutch, then np
good excuse for aftermarket + lightweight fly
i might try MTF as next step. Changing to a sports clutch and flywheel will that dramatically change the feel of shifting up/down gears? and definitely fix the 'brick wall' issue from 1st to 2nd gears?Quote:
Originally Posted by integral90
Swapping the clutch will only help if it is your clutch that's the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by E_Honda
A lighter flywheel should effectively make the car go into gear easier as the gearbox will lose its momentum more easily, thus matching engine/gear speed with less resistance.
Change your MTF.i'm sure it'll solve a lot of your shifting problems.I did mine at 40K and it dramatically improved the shift through the gears.
Yeh change MTF but i still find it jams up once in a while mainly because you need to rev match.
Don't think it's your clutch unless you keep dumping your clutch @ every light, but that would mean it's slipping and not the shift problem.
get it bak to the dealer bro :D
What fluid are you people using?
There is one fluid that I swear by, i'd even give up my left testi if you can find one better hehe, (and don't say Redline Shock Proof - It's rubbish).
Try using NEO gearbox oil, the race spec.. comes in a tin can, awesome stuff, I had straight cut's in my B4 box, and this oil went perfectly..so for a base spec box, it should compliment it even more..
I'm thinking of doing mine soon, as i'm nearing the 80k mark
I am using motul's gb oil.
works quite well when warmed up a little.
How much for Neo?
Your throttle is stuck open when you shift.Quote:
Originally Posted by integral90
Not really. The input shaft which slows down when you upshift is located in the gearbox, while the flywheel is on the engine side. So your engine revs will drop quicker but your input shaft will slow down the same as it is now, so the resistance will be the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by integral90
so either NEO gearbox oil or motul's gb oil. which one of these or if theres others do you guys recommend for the MTF? basically i'd like to try the best of the best for my baby
Could you guys let us know what viscosity are the NEO and Motul's MTF? Honda specifies 75w80 for the Euro's gearbox. What works great for another brand/model of car may not necessarily work for the Euro. I would use Honda MTF and change it every 2 years. That's better than spending a lot on Neo or Motul and keeping it in there for 4 years or longer.Quote:
Originally Posted by E_Honda
do you buy it directly from a Honda dealership? i guess it would be better to stick to generic Honda MTFQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
yeh sorry i couldn't remember if it was 80 or 90 so i didn't post it up.
but yeh Motul Gear 300 75w90.
buy it from local honda dealer.
Yup, you can buy it from the dealership, from a honda parts shop or from a Honda wrecker (some of them stock Honda fluids).Quote:
Originally Posted by E_Honda
Make sure the one you buy says Honda MTF 06. That's the new formulation. The old formulation says Honda MTF Plus.
ok thanks guys i might go pick some up on my lunch break
NEO is 75-90 also, it costs about $115.00 for 5L from memory.. does the box and diff in the suby.. so it would be more than enough for the EURO,
Here is a Link with some info on it..
I recommend it over Motul / Redline, so does my Mechanic (IS Motor-racing)
http://www.gccorp.com.au/automotive/...products_id=74
Cheaper than motul.
Motul is around $25 on sale and $35 not on sale /1l
Motul is good too, don't get me wrong.. but for a 12sec all day everyday car, I put my trust in NEO, and it served me well
but has anyone actually used NEO in their EUro??
lol posted same time. So you have used it on your Euro, notice much difference over the Motul? If not i might just get Motul considering it is the recommended MTF for the Euro.Quote:
Originally Posted by xxb4xx
just called honda got quoted $18 for a litre
I WILL GIVE NEO A GO NEXT TIME....thanks where's the best place to pick it up again?Quote:
Originally Posted by xxb4xx
btw 12sec euro wtf ? you ripped out your rear seats and spare tyres or something haha :)
motul isn't recommended MTF vicosity. It's thicker than OEM mtf for euro.Quote:
Originally Posted by E_Honda
Factory = 75W80; MOTUL = 75W90
Motul is thicker than factory mtf so should be warmed up first.
i meant i'll just get the Honda MTF 06 factory
hahah Not a 12sec Euro.. I've only had my Euro for 5 weeks, my Liberty B4 was a 12sec setup :)
As for NEO, in sydney IS Motor-Racing can get it, any reputable car auto place can order it in for you..
Also, going a bit thicker than Factory spec fluid won't hurt at all, if anything, depending on your km's it can be a better thing.
It's like people owning a 2000 sports car, and still using 5-30 engine oil in 2009 with 150,000 on the clock, just cause the owners manual recommends it.. Not a good thing.
yeh true by age you should go thicker as you said....
Disagree. :p You should go thicker by wear, not by age.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
There is nothing wrong with the Honda MTF. I recommend it.
This is why I used an example of a 9 year old car with 150k not 40k on the dial :DQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
was what i was meant to say :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
i've replaced the MTF with the honda stuff and i'm still experiencing difficulties going 1st-2nd gear on some occassions. If i shift up from 1st to 2nd at really low revs its fine, it happens more so when i shift at 4K rpm and up. Sends shivers up my spine when 2nd gear crunches.
What can i change in the clutch, gear box to make 2nd gear or all gears for that matter always smoothly engage?
Have you bled your clutch line? Is the clutch engagement point near the floor or in the middle?
nope haven't done that. I think i'd have to refer to the workshop manual on how to do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Clutch engadgement...ummm, well i normally push it near the floor when changing gears.
Bleed it then. The procedure is in the service manual and you'll be surprised at the colour of the fluid that can come out.Quote:
Originally Posted by E_Honda
Clutch engagement is not so much where your foot is, but when the clutch completely engages. Your crunching could be because, although your foot is completely on/off the pedal the clutch hasn't completely engaged/disengaged.Quote:
Originally Posted by E_Honda
The fluid fills in the gaps and makes everything smooth in the clutch movement so if your fluid is dead then your clutch won't go on or come off as smooth as you move the pedal. The crunch could likely be your clutch has not fully disengaged (as it lags behind your pedal movement) but you've already pushed it into 2nd.
ah ok, well like i said i did just recently change the MTF fluid so thats not an issue. So what could i change in order to prevent the lag from the clutch??Quote:
Originally Posted by integral90
i am surprised your crunching cause i rarely get any....
or is it cause you don't end up rev matching and you just jam it in?
Bleed your clutch line.Quote:
Originally Posted by E_Honda
i am surprised your crunching cause i rarely get any....
or is it cause you don't end up rev matching and you just jam it in?
Can always find weirder ones. Liam's car doesn't want to get out of 1st at high RPM. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
basically when i give it sometimes, i'll change to 2nd just before redline which i'm assuming is not rev matching, just get as much out of 1st gear as i can.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
similar to mine sometimesQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
what exactly will this do?Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Quote:
Originally Posted by E_Honda
serious? farout....Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
mine is fine i rev up just before cut out to shift from first to 2nd and it's fine...
Has liam changed mtf?
Changing MTF today, hopefully it will fix a bit of it. I think my clutch is dying though, I drive a stock Euro then mine and it feels like I have a heavy-duty clutch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Crapdaz
Maybe I should take all the mods off, take it to Honda, tell them I've never revved it past 4000rpm and that the clutch is faulty :angel:
all the mods rofl!!
It will remove the old compressible fluid and draw clean fluid from the resevoir in the engine bay (you can top it up a little bit). The new fluid will allow your clutch to fully disengage. If you haven't done it, do it first. Easy to do with 2 people if you know how to use a 10mm socket, 8mm spanner and a clear tube.Quote:
Originally Posted by E_Honda
Doubt it is your clutch because I've felt heavier stock ones on the Euro. It could be your pressure plate being stuffed up through.Quote:
Originally Posted by integral90
too much riding clutch and dumping it at WSID! :p wear n tear.... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
I'm pretty sure they take down and note the mods that are on the car when they see it at serviceQuote:
Originally Posted by integral90