Gear Box & Clutch and Vibrations - Few new problems

Hey Guys

I have a few problems I can't seem to work out..

1. Bad Vibrations when I turn left and 40km and over \
I've replaced all brake pads as that's what it feels like when there gone..

Not luck..

2. When I engage the clutch up or down gears its squeals and its only just started about a week ago... plus sometimes its hard to get in to first and second but only when the cars turned on, once off its all smooth again.

Maybe I need better box fluids than the standard Honda OEM?

There's on M-factory LSD in there too if that makes a difference.

Apart for the sound the clutch engages just fine without slipping.

Thanks

Luke

"Few new problems" LOL

So true.

Man,if we keep learning ourselves like this,we're a gonna be smarts soon isn't we?

:) (sorry I couldn't help Lukey)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by beeza

"Few new problems" LOL

So true.

Man,if we keep learning ourselves like this,we're a gonna be smarts soon isn't we?

:) (sorry I couldn't help Lukey)

---

That's the hope beeza ;)

Vibrations is from driveshafts

What clutch are you running?

i know this my sounds silly but hey, did you make sure your wheel nuts are done up tight???

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fatboyz39

Vibrations is from driveshafts

What clutch are you running?

---

M-factory race

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lookingforboost

i know this my sounds silly but hey, did you make sure your wheel nuts are done up tight???

---

lol Ryan

First thing I checked :)

f'd if i know lukey,i only just learnt how to open a car bonnet today....

werent u having some probs locating or sizing diff bearings if i recall?
was the diff clearanced properly to the housing?
hop nunder the car & make sure the driveshafts are still inserted fully & the intermediate shaft is done up (tight;) )

was the release bearing changed out with the clutch?

go gather some more info & better noise descriptions

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CRXer

f'd if i know lukey,i only just learnt how to open a car bonnet today....

werent u having some probs locating or sizing diff bearings if i recall?
was the diff clearanced properly to the housing?
hop nunder the car & make sure the driveshafts are still inserted fully & the intermediate shaft is done up (tight;) )

was the release bearing changed out with the clutch?

go gather some more info & better noise descriptions

---

:p at Jason

Na that was my last setup... man, No problems till now with new setup..

Yeah all new bearing with the new clutch and the clutch came with its own push bearing I believe..

I don't think vibrations have anything to do with the clutch and as you've said more than likely driver shafts or something like that

bleed the clutch again for the first & second hard to get in prob.

The mfactory should be fine with OEM fluids


u always seem to be the lucky one. SOmeone should get you to do product testing u seem to always get the dog problems :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Limbo

bleed the clutch again for the first & second hard to get in prob.

The mfactory should be fine with OEM fluids


u always seem to be the lucky one. SOmeone should get you to do product testing u seem to always get the dog problems :)

---

lol yeah

I'm looking at these man

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

mfactory race clutch ? never heard. Why use race products for street?

why not :P

My engine mounts were loose after the B16A conversion and I was driving round without knowing.

Right this have damaged my clutch and cause the weird vibrations?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fatboyz39

mfactory race clutch ? never heard. Why use race products for street?

---

Its semi race/ HD street spec

http://www.teammfactory.com/products...20Clutch&mod=B

Middle one

So it vibrates when your over 40km/hr under acceleration? or no acceleration?

Vibration in cornering?

Need more details

have you got that rubber balancer on drive shaft ?

sounds like you diff in you box is playing up

what a great motor you bought luke lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Benson

So it vibrates when your over 40km/hr under acceleration? or no acceleration?

Vibration in cornering?

Need more details

---

OK

Vibrating when I turning left

no vibrating at any speed if I'm not in gear.

Dose not make a difference if I'm accelerating or not

Dose not vibrate if I'm driving straight accelerating or rolling

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 90LAN

have you got that rubber balancer on drive shaft ?

sounds like you diff in you box is playing up

what a great motor you bought luke lol

---

Its a brand new M-Factory LSD in a recon box bro

save ur money, let me get mine on the road and i'll tell ya how my energy inserts are going. THey were alot cheaper.

P.S exchange rate is around 1:0.77 currently so not too bad

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lukezen27

lol yeah

I'm looking at these man

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Limbo

save ur money, let me get mine on the road and i'll tell ya how my energy inserts are going. THey were alot cheaper.

P.S exchange rate is around 1:0.77 currently so not too bad

---

Got a link to the inserts Hao?

Well I can't fuking believe it..........

Just picked up my car from Hannys with the new clutch installed and thirds crunching up and down gears..........

Looks like there was some damage to the syincro while driving out to Hannys as my clutch died.

Any tricks on fixing this like thicker box oil maybe?

u can try some of that oil stabiliser stuff from lucas, i used that before and it helped abit.
The other thing is also 50% auto transmission fluid, is supose to help crunching boxes.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lukezen27

My engine mounts were loose after the B16A conversion and I was driving round without knowing.

---

:thumbsup: Nice...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lukezen27

Vibrating when I turning left
no vibrating at any speed if I'm not in gear.

---

Now that it's been apart & reassembled...
How's this issue?
Still there? or is it fixed?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lukezen27

Its a brand new M-Factory LSD in a recon box bro

---

Reconditioned or overhauled & checked?
There a huge differnce in price...
Just throwing in the LSD could be your noise if end float wasn't checked.
How much did you spend?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lukezen27

Just picked up my car from Hannys with the new clutch installed and thirds crunching up and down gears..........

Looks like there was some damage to the syincro while driving out to Hannys as my clutch died.

---

Is the issue at all rpm ranges or only high rpm?
Might also be a selector fork if you were forcing it previously....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TODA AU

:thumbsup: Nice...

Could not have said it better myself.

Now that it's been apart & reassembled...
How's this issue?
Still there? or is it fixed?

Brake Pad change and it went away two days after.

Reconditioned or overhauled & checked?
There a huge differnce in price...
Just throwing in the LSD could be your noise if end float wasn't checked.
How much did you spend?

Yeah just new bearing and check $120 parts $80 labor

Is the issue at all rpm ranges or only high rpm?
Might also be a selector fork if you were forcing it previously....

---

Any RPM

He's some good news and the reason I didn't notice it driving from hannys to you Adrian...

Only starts crunching after the car warms up and the box must be hot..

Drive it round the block a few times this morning without one crunch before the cars warm.

So the box needs bleeding yeah?

Your synros are gone.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fatboyz39

Your synros are gone.

---

Na all good

Must have jsut been air in there as it was the first ime it had been driven after the clutch change...

No crunching anymore hot all cold :thumbsup:

Pete from Hannys thinks we might be able to fix my problem by putting in slightly thicker box fluid J

As it dose not crunch cold that means its crunching once the fluid heats up thinning out..

What's the OEM thickness? and whats a good thicker box fluid to use guys?

Thanks

75-90 i think

endless make a 75-125 if you want thick

Red line shockproof bro................ do it!!!! i would get new steel selector forks for it to :)

i dont think thicker oil will fix it man, my 33 crunched sometimes going into gear and got all the box oil changed with thin nulon smooth shift and its smick now!

how the hell did your engine mounts get lose after the conversion?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lookingforboost

Red line shockproof bro................ do it!!!! i would get new steel selector forks for it to :)

i dont think thicker oil will fix it man, my 33 crunched sometimes going into gear and got all the box oil changed with thin nulon smooth shift and its smick now!

---

What about this stuff Ryan?

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php...Diff_Treatment

My mates who's an avionics engineer swears by it

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Benson

how the hell did your engine mounts get lose after the conversion?

---

Just over looked I guess... all good now

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Benson

how the hell did your engine mounts get lose after the conversion?

---

too much power from the turbo
and with a good cultch the power to the ground
caused the mounts to come loose

Anyone got a pic of where the box oil filler bolt is?

I'm sure I can find it but would be nice to see :)

its just to the left of the driver side drive shaft,u cant miss it,drain bolt below the drive shaft

luke theres a diy thread to change gb oil mate
should be what your looking for

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 90LAN

too much power from the turbo
and with a good cultch the power to the ground
caused the mounts to come loose

---

Thats a lame epxlanation

Obviously who ever put in the mounts didnt tighten it enough.. probably just hand tighten

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Benson

Thats a lame epxlanation

Obviously who ever put in the mounts didnt tighten it enough.. probably just hand tighten

---

you dont have that problem
so you wouldnt understand lol

obviously

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Benson

Thats a lame epxlanation

Obviously who ever put in the mounts didnt tighten it enough.. probably just hand tighten

---

Boost on stock mounts dose seem to loosen everything

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 90LAN

you dont have that problem
so you wouldnt understand lol

obviously

---

I guess you have the same problem?:p

lol, lock tight or gasket glue in the thread.

try just putting the lucas oil stabilizer to thicken the gearbox oil

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Benson

I guess you have the same problem?:p

---

actually my threads are seized from hard parking

fix the problem yet luke ?

OK Nulon box stuff added.. lets see how it goes through the next week

If not good I might try some box fluids

Castrol Syntrans 75w85 or 75w80
Redline Shockproof light 17w90

Anyone tried these box fluids?

did u end up fixing the vibrating issue? was it your mounts?

my dc2 has the same sorta problem. when i brake going over 50 km/h, steering wheel shakes pretty violently. as soon as it drops under 50, it stops.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dvsx

did u end up fixing the vibrating issue? was it your mounts?

my dc2 has the same sorta problem. when i brake going over 50 km/h, steering wheel shakes pretty violently. as soon as it drops under 50, it stops.

---

Sounds like you need to machine your front discs !

Castrol Syntrans 75w85 or 75w80, it was the silver bottle
Used that before, i'd have to say pretty average though, no difference from OEM honda

he just got his brakes done so i dunno, would have thought they would have looked at the discs

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bennjamin

Sounds like you need to machine your front discs !

---

Mine went away after a few days with new brake pads all round

Hey Guys

Well since putting in the nulon stuff in the gears don't grind anymore...

Just a clunk every now and then when changing into third...

I know a few friends were having problems with their cars after changing new clutch (brass button clutch), car seems to be running okay at first but after awhile they were having problems with their driveshaft, wheel bearings and hard to get into gears. What causes this to happen? clutch is too strong for the gearbox to handle?

I've bought a excedy brass button clutch long time ago but havent put it in yet but at the same time im scare to have the same problem as my friends....

well, 1st things first, you're friends are gay! lol... stock drive shafts are only made to handle certain hp (ie. no more than 200hp) and torque levels. If you have a car with more hp & torque (ie. bigger engine) than stock limits and suspension not adjusted correctly, you are more than likely to hurt your drive shaft. Correct me if I'm wrong.

The US has different stage (street-drag etc.) drive shafts and cost from $200-$1800US. I haven't seen any companies in Australia yet that stock such items.

I'll be getting a street-drag drive shaft next as stock drive shafts are too weak and has caused many headaches. In US, they call them Axels or something like that.:thumbsup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by zropts

well, 1st things first, you're friends are gay! lol... stock drive shafts are only made to handle certain hp (ie. no more than 200hp) and torque levels. If you have a car with more hp & torque (ie. bigger engine) than stock limits and suspension not adjusted correctly, you are more than likely to hurt your drive shaft. Correct me if I'm wrong.

The US has different stage (street-drag etc.) drive shafts and cost from $200-$1800US. I haven't seen any companies in Australia yet that stock such items.

I'll be getting a street-drag drive shaft next as stock drive shafts are too weak and has caused many headaches. In US, they call them Axels or something like that.:thumbsup:

---

Well I'm at 202HP ATW so fingers crossed :p

brass button ones put alot of pressure on the box and depending on how hard you drive it causes premature wear so, yeah things tend to get broken. i.e syncros

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CTR_EK9

I know a few friends were having problems with their cars after changing new clutch (brass button clutch), car seems to be running okay at first but after awhile they were having problems with their driveshaft, wheel bearings and hard to get into gears. What causes this to happen? clutch is too strong for the gearbox to handle?

I've bought a excedy brass button clutch long time ago but havent put it in yet but at the same time im scare to have the same problem as my friends....

---

OK guys

I got some Nulon 80/80 :thumbsup:

Honda OEM oil is 80/95 and thrid only crunches once the box is very hot but not when its cold ie 80 :p