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  1. #37
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Garage
    Quote Originally Posted by 90LAN View Post
    you dont have that problem
    so you wouldnt understand lol

    obviously
    I guess you have the same problem?

  2. #38
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sydney - Cabramatta/Liver
    Car:
    Jazz EVO IX
    lol, lock tight or gasket glue in the thread.

    try just putting the lucas oil stabilizer to thicken the gearbox oil
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  3. #39
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    JDM PARTS BRISBANE
    Car:
    EURO LUX
    Quote Originally Posted by Benson View Post
    I guess you have the same problem?
    actually my threads are seized from hard parking

    fix the problem yet luke ?

  4. #40
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Manly Yo
    Car:
    ED/EG5/EP3/JAZZ
    OK Nulon box stuff added.. lets see how it goes through the next week

    If not good I might try some box fluids

    Castrol Syntrans 75w85 or 75w80
    Redline Shockproof light 17w90

    Anyone tried these box fluids?
    Last edited by Lukezen27; 27-06-2009 at 08:14 PM.
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  5. #41
    did u end up fixing the vibrating issue? was it your mounts?

    my dc2 has the same sorta problem. when i brake going over 50 km/h, steering wheel shakes pretty violently. as soon as it drops under 50, it stops.
    Last edited by dvsx; 27-06-2009 at 10:31 PM.

  6. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by dvsx View Post
    did u end up fixing the vibrating issue? was it your mounts?

    my dc2 has the same sorta problem. when i brake going over 50 km/h, steering wheel shakes pretty violently. as soon as it drops under 50, it stops.
    Sounds like you need to machine your front discs !

  7. #43
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sydney - Cabramatta/Liver
    Car:
    Jazz EVO IX
    Castrol Syntrans 75w85 or 75w80, it was the silver bottle
    Used that before, i'd have to say pretty average though, no difference from OEM honda
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  8. #44
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sydney - Cabramatta/Liver
    Car:
    Jazz EVO IX
    he just got his brakes done so i dunno, would have thought they would have looked at the discs

    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    Sounds like you need to machine your front discs !
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  9. #45
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Manly Yo
    Car:
    ED/EG5/EP3/JAZZ
    Mine went away after a few days with new brake pads all round
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  10. #46
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Manly Yo
    Car:
    ED/EG5/EP3/JAZZ
    Hey Guys

    Well since putting in the nulon stuff in the gears don't grind anymore...

    Just a clunk every now and then when changing into third...
    Last edited by Lukezen27; 03-07-2009 at 03:24 PM.
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  11. #47
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    civic EK9
    I know a few friends were having problems with their cars after changing new clutch (brass button clutch), car seems to be running okay at first but after awhile they were having problems with their driveshaft, wheel bearings and hard to get into gears. What causes this to happen? clutch is too strong for the gearbox to handle?

    I've bought a excedy brass button clutch long time ago but havent put it in yet but at the same time im scare to have the same problem as my friends....

  12. #48
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    MELB
    Car:
    JDM B18CR
    well, 1st things first, you're friends are gay! lol... stock drive shafts are only made to handle certain hp (ie. no more than 200hp) and torque levels. If you have a car with more hp & torque (ie. bigger engine) than stock limits and suspension not adjusted correctly, you are more than likely to hurt your drive shaft. Correct me if I'm wrong.

    The US has different stage (street-drag etc.) drive shafts and cost from $200-$1800US. I haven't seen any companies in Australia yet that stock such items.

    I'll be getting a street-drag drive shaft next as stock drive shafts are too weak and has caused many headaches. In US, they call them Axels or something like that.

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