tried searchin, found nothing. what engine are u guys using for ur integras
engine: ??
oil brand and W: ???
kms: ??
likes and dislikes: ??
was reading and its recommended that u use 10/40 and the best oil would be 5/40
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tried searchin, found nothing. what engine are u guys using for ur integras
engine: ??
oil brand and W: ???
kms: ??
likes and dislikes: ??
was reading and its recommended that u use 10/40 and the best oil would be 5/40
Whatever sells itself to me the best on the day in 10w30 synthetic.
I change it often and don't drive much. I've never had a "problem" with an oil.
10-30 oem honda
05-30 castrol edge
10-30 motul 300v
all good comes down to price
its not what u use its how regular u change your oil
05-30 castrol edge FTW
elf turbolite i think it is (blue bottle) got a nice smell to it too shits all over castrol which i used previously.
going to try motul 300v next but motor will be out so mite wack it in the jazz
motul 300v 10w40
Amsoil
Castrol Edge Sport 5-30
Red Line 10-30 or 10-40 depending on the season.
B18c using Motul 8100 5w40
otherwise the FEO or Mobil 1 i think are ok, though i found Motul to my liking the best
shell helix
ferrari ftw
lol
Mobil 1 5w-50
Also to help the thread starter here is a little more information:Quote:
Originally Posted by chargeR
engine: K20A2
Positives: My motor has not blown yet in around 15 track events in all weather with no oil cooler, and it shows no signs of slowing down. I change my oil every 2 track days or 5000km whichever comes first.
Negatives: Red line is quite expensive.
Edge 5-30 or Royal Purple 5-30 or 10-40 depending on the season.
i've used this my last 2 serviceQuote:
Originally Posted by Kiki
cant ccomplain
dc2r 145,000kms 10-40W Castrol Magnetec I change my oil when i see its crossing over to a black colour, just changed mine yesterdai =]
thats a good idea, post up KM's too .
Ferrari does not use shell in their workshops. they use pure bred italian oil - AGIP. shell just pays for the picture on the f1 carQuote:
Originally Posted by chilli
agip is the best, also, shell is shit coz its filtered through water in the proccessing which makes it burn quicker. very bad!
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...u/agip5w40.jpg
hands up for me... very smooth reving compare to OEM... though it seems like theres a resistant in reving the thing... seems like the 5-40 is alittle thick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiki
I think Shell does a little bit more than paying for the stickers on the F1 carQuote:
Originally Posted by absolutR
http://www.shell.com/home/content/fe...rmula_one.html
Anyone knows the different between Honda FEO 10W30 and Honda Premium engine oil 5W40? Other than the SJ and SL rating..
I can see straight away from your post that the Honda Premium 5w-40 is thicker than the FEO 10w-30 at operating temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by slidetaker
That is a very daring statement to make. It doesn't burn quicker. Your PCV valve is worn.Quote:
Originally Posted by absolutR
dc5r Motul 8100 5w40
awesome
Im not saying that it burns up in front of you, but compared to better oils it does in fact burn quicker.
[QUOTE=slidetaker;1794411]I think Shell does a little bit more than paying for the stickers on the F1 car
http://www.shell.com/home/content/fe...rmula_one.htmlQUOTE]
all advertising.
I know that. I am saying that for oils of the correct viscosity for your engine, the oil consumption is more dependent on your PCV valve and ring/bore conditions. Which oils have you PERSONALLY used that burns slower than Shell? Also WHICH shell oil are you referring to? Shell ECO10? Shell Helix? Shell Helix Plus? Shell Helix Ultra?Quote:
Originally Posted by absolutR
Yes.....sorry, I should have put more details in the question.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
My main question is why Honda would choose a 5W40 grade as premium? Does Honda imply that 10W30 is for Fuel efficient only, while 5W40 is the one that will give you better protection especially in severe conditions. Also, which Honda will be suitable for this 5W40? For S2000, but not Jazz?
Does anyone else know that there is a Honda Premium engine oil?? I just saw in recently in Eastern Honda Services in Victoria..
The current Honda engines (Jazz, Civic, Accord, Accord Euro, CRV, Odyssey, S2000, Legend) can use 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40. Even 15w-40 and 0w-20 might be usable. Generaly for the SAME TYPE OF OIL, the thicker the oil, the better the protection (as long as you stay within the appropriate range), while the thinner oils give better fuel economy.Quote:
Originally Posted by slidetaker
But I have always thought that 10W30 will have around 60cSt at 40C that will provide a faster flow around the engine for first crank start-up while 5W40 will have around 70cSt at 40C. Most wears do occur at start-up, wouldn't 10W30 flows better in the first few critical mins.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Castrol Magnatec
10-40
You guys think Castrol Edge Sport 0w-40 is ok for track use?
I can tell you that your motor probably wont blow straight away :p. Do a used oil analysis and tell us the results.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chi
Quote:
Originally Posted by chargeR
OK GUY.
I hope ur engine blows so you're stuck in Syd with your bf !!!!!!
LOL, you joking or is this a real question?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chi
BTW, I used it and the engine is not blown yet. I'm using the cheaper 5w-30 this time, so make sure you install your towhook so that you can tow my car back to Sydney. I'll bring the rope.
Seriously though why are you departing so far from the honda recommended oil viscosities? If you look in your manual Honda only recommends 0W or 5W oils for very low start temperatures. Just get 10-30 Red Line. Track tested in 2 different states at a variety of temperatures on a ghetto old high km DC5.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chi
Honda recommended oil viscosities are 0w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 and maybe 15w-40. Says so in the manual.Quote:
Originally Posted by chargeR
A lot of japanese Honda tuner shops use 0w-40 for track.Quote:
Originally Posted by chargeR
I've used mainly 5-30 and 10-40 and wondering if it is any beneficial for the 0w-40.
Just a question, doesn't mean I'm 100% using it.
I know J's racing use 0w-20 for their track cars. which is a bit odd.
Indeed they are, but for the temperature range we are generally going to experience in south east Australia 10W-30 and 10W-40 are recommended. The DC5R manual suggests that no thinner oil than 5W-30 be used and that is for temperatures down to less than -20 Celsius. I see no mention of 0W-30 or 0W-20 in the DC5R manual :confused:.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
J's possibly build their motors with different clearances and ideas to stock motors or they run them at different temperatures. I have no idea and I am certainly not going to disagree.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chi
Honestly very few people, myself included, choose their oil using any logic or evidence. I would not honestly recommend Red Line to anyone else, I would only say that I have been to many track days on the oil in a variety of temperatures and my car still runs well.
I am still interested in why you want a lower viscosity (eg 0W or 5W) at low temperatures?
0w and 5w will only make a difference if you live in the mountains during the winter snow season. Even so, it only makes a difference when you first start your engine in the morning. After the engine has warmed up, it makes almost no difference compared to a 10w. The 2nd number matters after that.
shell helix ultra and shell helix extra.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
the two full synthetic oils i use is either agip 0w-30 or the same in motul, which both last longer, and my pcv valve is fairly new.. atm i'm using 5w-40 motul purely coz i ran out of my own little stash of agip. but both motul and agip in the same ratings as what shell i have used will alwasy last longer, and its a shared experience with alot of my mates, we're very picky about what goes into our sumps
Someone please explain why my mechanic would pour/recommend me 10w70 - Penrite Sin - Full Syn?
I know it's a thicker oil, but why?
ELF semi 10w-40
hey guys i'm lost lol. i have a 97 integra gsi with 177,xxx km on it. what oil would u guys recommend? i dont take it to track or anything, i just prefer fuel efficiency. sorry to hijack the thread :S
Fuchs GTO Synthetic 10w30 w/ K&N Oil Filter
OEM Honda FEO Mineral Oil 10w30Quote:
Originally Posted by deezsta87
As they make more money from it most likely. If he had any clue he would realise that an oil with a weight of 70 @ operating temperature would ruin the internals and oil pump. When you think about it...thats almost the weight of the average transmission oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitsubishi
EDIT: FYI....Penrite Oils are absolute GARBAGE in my opinion...i would recommend to stay away from them particulary their transmission oils.
Regards,
Andrew
That is odd, wonder why. To burn, it has to get into the combustion chamber. When inside the combustion chamber, all oils will burn as the combustion temperature is above the oil's ignition point.Quote:
Originally Posted by absolutR
Even thicker than transmission oil! Honda MTF is 75w80 which is equivalent to a 10w-30 oil. At 70@100 C, that would be closer to 140 weight gear oil!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp00ny
Different quality and quantity in PAO/Easter proportion can affect seals differently, shrink, swelling. That will affect the amount of oil getting to areas that they shouldn't. No further info in Motul and Agip oils to follow up as to what's different from Shell oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
0W is often mentioned because of the amount of PAO/Easter needed to use as base stock to achieve this viscosity. 0W40 will have a good proportion of PAO to handle track conditions while a reasonable number of HTHS to protection the bearings. If a track car using 0W20 on track, I will be saying they are after ultimate horsepower while don't mind rebuilding every second session. Having said that, there are small can additives they might use for extra protection according to their applications.Quote:
Originally Posted by chargeR
So i just recently got a DC5R and have been trying to research which oil to use, i use my dc5 as a commuter and bit of windy roads driving, with a bit of thrashing here and there.
Reading this thread, i have no idea what all these oil ratings mean?
anyone mind helping a fella help?
Sorry for thread revival.
cheers.
Daily commuter, Honda FEO.Quote:
Originally Posted by her0
Castrol edge 5w - 30w - Fine for winter season.
Might go to a 40w for summer.
I think more importantly though is how often you change your oil.
Every 5000K's I do.
yup, previous owner changed it every 5000kms, i don't plan to change that.Quote:
Originally Posted by l3vnd1
so i guess i'd go the castrol 5w-30w for now?
mobil1 0w-40w...
the ratings are to show the thickness of the oil. hondas like using a thinner oil then most other cars. and also the temp the oils are recomended for. your user manual should say the oem oils wouldnt do you wrong./
but if u want something a little better. id say a fully synthetic oil. i use motul 8100 5w40. i rate it and so would many others. its up 2 your pocket i suppose
Now using...
Royal Purple 5w30 w/ K&N Oil Filter
Pros:
- Made engine noticably quieter and smoother...
- Seems to of improved responsiveness but other variables could of effected that.
- Extended Drain Periods
- It's actually purple... :cool: lol
*Seems much better than Motul 300V* When I used motul 300V same weight...it made the engine very chattery, noisy and rough...flushed the oil straight away and moved to fuchs synthetic until I decided to go with Royal Purple xD
Cons:
- Expensive (Approx $85/5L)
hey guys ive got a b18b and im currently using penrite HPR 15 which is SAE 15W-60
thats recommended for SAE 15W-40 or 15W-50 .But it is way to thick. just a Question on which other brand of oil i should use that is available at autobarn or supercheap etc because there isnt a honda dealer around my area any tips will be great.
Magnatec
Shell
Mobil
castrol Edge
Penrite again?
Cheers
Scrap the Penrite...Although this may sound bias I have no major issues with any other oil but Penrite... and scrap that viscosity ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by kikxz
I would use a 10w30 or 10w40 depending how many k's your car has done preferable in Mobil/Motul or OEM. If you actually research it you will find that Australian OEM oil is refined by Caltex...so anything along those lines will do. I personally would go for a trip to a honda dealer and purchase a few bottles of OEM...you cant go wrong with oem and at $32 for 5 Litres...the price is good too.
ok spoony thanks for the info looks like oem is the way to go cheers mate
hey.. there's quite a few ppl using Castrol Edge Sport 5-30. so am i.
Any advice on what oil to use for a B18c having done just over 200K's??
Honda FEO. If you are not happy with oil consumption with FEO go up to a 10W-40 semi-synthetic and see if it improves.Quote:
Originally Posted by F.O.B Squad
I just recently got a honda integra vtir 99. And its coming to a point that I need to change the oil I want to change it at 113,000 km. I want a bit of performance and fuel economy put together what oil is best? maybe something in between? Not to sure about the thickness of the oils.
If you want cheap mineral oil then, Honda FEO 10W-30, orrrrrr... for Synthetic, Castrol Edge 5W-30 or 0W-40. Probs the best cheaper synthetic oil. ELF makes a good 5W-30 too.Quote:
Originally Posted by ekvtir90
im using castrol edge 5w-30 atm
i rarely even drive the thing these days
will probably jus go back to honda feo in 5 months (since i probably not even make 5000kms) LOL
i gave this motul racing oil a go coz i got recommended n was waaay better than honda n castrol edge imo but since its $100 a pop plus $30 for engine flush (reccomended) dnt think i'll b usin it every time i do an oil change... bloody great oil tho, noticed the difference immedialtely, even on idle, engine a lot quiter n smoother.
If you had tried Motul's $65 8100 5w-40 engine oil without an engine flush, you would have noticed the smoothness immediately as well. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tegzieboi_BAR
Mr Spoon says that engine flush stuff is a no no. Arronng might want to elaborate. I would like to know your views on this, Arron?
I hate engine flush. Engine flush is basically thin oil the consistency of diesel which you then run your engine on for a few minutes. I have a policy of nothing thinner than 0w-30 in my engine, so if anyone approaches my car with an engine flush, I'll use it to give them a good bowel cleansing.Quote:
Originally Posted by VTECMACHINE
Even if you had good luck that there were no carbon debris that jammed the gap between the bearing journals (like what Mr. Ichishima (Spoon) said could happen), you would still have accelerated wear on the journals in that few minutes of running on super thin oil.
Agreed. Would you use 10w40 in your car as Royal Purple have limited viscosities available in Aus.? (5w30 or 10w40). I am running 5w30 atm.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
In reference to engine flushing...why not just use a releatively cheap oil (possibly OEM) with high detergent levels and run ethanol for about 150-200km's then flush and replace again(both times changing oil filter)...I don't see an engine flush doing much more than that...also engine flushes are also not recommended as they don't comply with the standards of abrasiveness on OEM Seals...
Motul @ $100? I would buy Royal Purple @ $80...I noticed more than an noticable sound differance, smoothness, response and fuel efficiency (about 20-30km's per tank consistantly if not more and I just recently had my engine rebuilt) RP-FTW...and trust me I don't usually support american produce however they definantly have a good thing going there. Besides...its actually PURPLE...'sif you wouldn't want it lol. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Tegzieboi_BAR
Previous Products Used for Reference...
Motul 300V Series
Fuchs Semi-Synthetic/Full-Synthetic
Motul 8100 Synethic and 4100 Semi-Synthetic
Mobil Gold
Honda OEM.
I have used all of them and believe royal purple is the noticably better choice. I also think unless your going to spend the big bucks such as Royal Purple or Motul 300V; Honda OEM would probebly be the wisest choice.
I would use anything between 0w-30 to 10w-40. You'll be alright for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp00ny
I reckon the mid-range oils are still pretty good. Motul 8100 for $65 and 20% sale is good value, and so is Castrol Edge 0w-40 with 20% off. Edge 5w-30 is ok as well, but the only time I would buy that is when it is on promo for $30 for 5L. Honda FEO is good for a daily driver which has regular oil changes, but if you like pushing your car a little bit hard, there is nothing wrong with the mid range oils. I don't really agree with a street car needing 300V unless your wallet is too heavy for your pocket. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Sp00ny
Any other oils rather than OEM, i'm not stating that i dont want to use OEM just would like to know if theres other options for a motor over 200k's?Quote:
Originally Posted by chargeR
Thanks for the elaboration Arron. Mr Spoon is cool, I had a D&M with him about Honda's when he was in Aus, and he said that the AUDM DC5R is a secutaries car, and that DC2R > DC5R. What a champ :D
Spoony, I agree with you. I have tried a bunch of different oil, and different viscosities. For me Royal Purple has by far been the best. I trust it with my life, and my engines life (Same thing I guess)... However, like all 10W-40's I find them a tad too thick. But I feel it's safer tracking with 10W-40 in the hotter months.
FOB Squad, for engine over 200K km's, use a thicker oil, like a 10W-40. IMO Honda Feo (which is 10W-30) could be a bit too thin.
Very true. Expessially considering my somewhat conservative driving habits...however I decided to get my engine rebuilt when I purchased it so since I have control over its wear and life I decide to Lay out the extra bit...I use Royal Purple + K&N Oil Filter...when you consider that a mid priced oil at about $30-50 change at intervals at 5k/6months (what i would personally do) and royal purple @ $80 (could go to 10k easily but i choose 6-7.5k/9 Months) It really doesn't work out that much more expensive...expessially if you don't drive much... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
You are right though...it can be considered overkill :angel:
Nothing is overkill when it comes to oil :) Just like we need clean water, our engines need nice 'clean' oil :)
Why is everyone refering to prices here. Yes, in most instances price is what determines quality, but just remember marketing plays a HUGE role in pricing, and the products' position within the market.
From what I found now, cheap mineral oils like Magnatec and even FEO last about 7000km with sedate city driving. After around 7000km my engine goes very rough. I have tried it twice and it always happens around 7000km. The midrange oils on the other hand like Edge 0w-40 and Motul 8100 don't go rough. But I do notice a loss of torque at high rpm, as if the oil was too thick, after going for a trackday and then another 3000km of street driving. So for me, the mid range oils are sufficient, eventhough I track my car. But, if your car budget allowed the use of high end oil, go for it by all means. I just get ticked off when ppl say to get 300V because the engine will feel more powerful. LOL. Thankfully, that hasn't happened in this thread yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp00ny
Royal Purple > Motul ???
After reading the last few pages, would you even notice a difference using the mid to higher end oils if I'm currently changing my Honda FEO at every 5000km?
In a stock type S, daily driver with spirited driving here and there.
I doubt it. Supercheap is having Castrol Edge 5w-30 on sale at $29.95 now. Get a bottle to try out, I reckon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zakarados
I would personally say yes. But I guess it's a brand thing. Once a brand has been reliable and good to you, you won't go back or change to anything else. I trust it with my life now. Saying that, I have heard a bunch of people blowing engines using Royal Purple. But that's probably because they were pushing harder thinking their cars had royal purple and were invincible, similar to people that think stock Type R's are race cars and push their stock engines so sooo hard and blow them.Quote:
Originally Posted by l3vnd1
I don't think you'll notice much difference in different brands of oil in terms of performance if you change it often, but viscosities I find are extremely noticiable. The amount of engine response you lose from 10W-40 opposed to 5W-30 is amazing.
^^ And there are people saying Motul also fcks your engine up, in a previous engine oil thread. Then you have other people saying Castrol Edge is cheap crap shit and anything Castrol should be avoided. LOL. Then you have people like me who have tried Shell Helix Ultra and was unimpressed.
Have any of you done a single oil analysis in your life-time? Or are you basing your impressions on how 'smooth' the engine is? Or how quickly the oil goes black?
Not much real information in this thread, just marketing bullshit.